Electric Brakes on Camper

[Camo]

Hi there

My girl is about to buy a TD4 Freebie and I'm keen on towing the 4x4 camper behind it for long trips:D Being a diesel it should pull it quite nicely.

Only worry are brakes. Will need to fit brakes to the camper for sure.

Whats best way do think?

I was thinking of fitting electric operated ones with contoller..hard to fit?

Camo

[Blknight.aus]

electric brakes are a doddle to fit providing you get the right kit to suit what you physically have atm. (brakes, hubs and bearings wise)

its about 5 hours worth of work from go to whoa but I would also recommend some mods to the system straight off the bat... Some kits already have them some dont..

most electric brake systems (all for trailers over 2t) have a backup battery that usually goes neglected. This battery is provided to operate the brakes in the event of low voltage from the tow vehicle or a brake-away.

The mod is simple and is 2 parted. (maybe 3)

1, beef up the cabling from the follwoing plugs on the trailer socket of the tow vehicle brake light, aux power and earth

2. fit a seperate power feed from the vehicle to the battery on the system so that it can be charged independantly. If it goes flat it has the potential to draw more amps than the aux power feed can supply. The fuse feeding it will blow and then you have no brakes on the trailer and no emergancy control of the brakes. (if you have the system that uses the electrical to hold the brakes off then disregard this step but have fun trying to move the trailer if the battery goes flat.)

(3) fit one of those cheapo 12v solar panels to the trailer brake battery.

[Utemad]

Just to bring this back to the top. I'm interested in trailer brakes too. After a trip to Jimna over Easter and having the camper trying to push the Disco around on steep dirt corners (2wd forestry road). Didn't cause problems but you could feel it wanting to.

Just to reiterate what Camo said, what is needed to convert the non braked trailer to a braked trailer?

New braked hubs or can you get brakes for existing hubs?
Bearings?

[Rosco]

Just to bring this back to the top. I'm interested in trailer brakes too. After a trip to Jimna over Easter and having the camper trying to push the Disco around on steep dirt corners (2wd forestry road). Didn't cause problems but you could feel it wanting to.

Just to reiterate what Camo said, what is needed to convert the non braked trailer to a braked trailer?

New braked hubs or can you get brakes for existing hubs?
Bearings?

Basically you start from your bare axle. But go there, you won't regret it.

All you need is to experience the need for a panic stop at highway speeds.
.... :eek::eek::eek:

[sschmez]

Basically you start from your bare axle.

As rosco said, you wont regret it

(assuming here, that you don't have any brakes fitted)

You need to know the size of your axle - (diameter) if round - or square section ........ so you can get the right bracket to weld onto the axle.
(get the part No.s for the bearings and seals too so you can get the correct drums)

The backing plates bolt onto the new brackets which have just been welded onto the axle and all the shoes, springs, actuators, and magnet attach to these. The drums with the bearings and seals will then fit over the top.

Electrically, there is a power wire and an earth to each side which is connected to the electromagnet at one end and trailer plug at the other.

Depending on the weight of your trailer you probably don't need to have the battery, solar panel and disconnect gear mentioned by Blacknight ... in the event of a break away it would actuate the brakes and hold them for a minimum of fifteen minutes. While my camper has onboard power for lights/pump etc I don't have the breakaway.

A controller needs to be fitted to the towing vehicle and is a DIY job too if you are confident with these things ... It may be required in a life and death scenario, so any doubts - get it done by a professional .... as with the fitting and welding above.

My controller came with good instructions and needed: power in, power out, earth and brake lights to be connected to it. I needed to run a new cable back to the Aux. on the trailer socket for the power out from the controller, I also used the opportunity to upgade the cables (separate) to the power outlets in and on the back of the disco.

My camper trailer already had electric brakes fitted, but I have another trailer that I intend to upgrade to elec brakes too (eventually:( )... should get out of it for under $500. My controller is a Tekonsha prodigy and from evilbay was $189.00.

When you do the job, take plenty of photos and post it up in the projects section ... there seems to be some interest

Stevo

Click to see here also : AL-KO (http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle/index.html)

[Utemad]

Well as far as my trailer is concerned I rang the manufacturer and the bearings it has are part no. 68149 to suit a 45mm parallel axle. No idea what that is but the guy who answered the phone is just filling in as the others are at the Sydney camping show.

I called AL-KO and they weren't exactly helpful. They quoted me $818 for an 'offroad kit' to suit a 5 stud Land Cruiser hub with 10in brakes. I said I doubt very much that they are the same hub and he said that he thinks they are but either way the price won't differ much.
He did tell me what was in the kit but I had pretty much switched off by then. He did say they were handbrake compatible.

Considering that it was $450 extra for brakes according to the manufacturer website I think that guy is a loony.

[sschmez]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/07/456.jpg



Well as far as my trailer is concerned I rang the manufacturer and the bearings it has are part no. 68149 to suit a 45mm parallel axle.

This is what I've got under the camper, utemad
10" drums, 6 stud Landcruiser/Patrol, offroad, provision for handbrake.

[Utemad]

This is what I've got under the camper, utemad
10" drums, 6 stud Landcruiser/Patrol, offroad, provision for handbrake.

Since you have got it all in bits in the photo I assume you retrofitted it yourself?

What did it set you back?

Also AL-KO said the offroad kit had offroad magnets. Any idea what he meant by that?

[Rosco]

Also, if you decide to go with brakes, I'd strongly suggest 5 stud Landy pattern to suit your veh. That way all wheels are interchangeable.
Ours was part of the camper trailer package when we bought and cost a wee tad more than L'Cruiser type, but had much bigger HD bearings, so I decided it was worth it. Don't know about so called "off road magnets" though.

Cheers

[Utemad]

Also, if you decide to go with brakes, I'd strongly suggest 5 stud Landy pattern to suit your veh. That way all wheels are interchangeable.

My trailer has Landy hubs and steel Disco wheels already. I guess if I upgrade to brakes I should be able to offload the hubs on Ebay easily.

[sschmez]

Since you have got it all in bits in the photo I assume you retrofitted it yourself?

Had it in bits to change the bearings because I'm the second owner and the history was unknown. Bearings were fine so all I did was clean and repack them. Took the photos "for the record" and next time I know the part No.s etc.


What did it set you back?


Came already fitted to the trailer, but as I'm intending to upgrade my other trailer I'm looking out ... saw a set on evilbay for under $500 (buy it now) .. not listed anymore/at the moment


Also AL-KO said the offroad kit had offroad magnets. Any idea what he meant by that?

Has something to do with the mounting and a vibration resistant/dampening plastic insert so they don't shake to bits ... I think ... can't remember exactly.

On the list also: I will change the drums/hubs to some in LR stud pattern (and LR studs/nuts) and keep the 6 stud for the option if/when I sell either of the trailers and the buyer prefers the other pattern. I aim to have the identical LR setup on both trailers.

Stevo

[sschmez]

On the list also: I will change the drums/hubs to some in LR stud pattern (and LR studs/nuts) and keep the 6 stud for the option if/when I sell either of the trailers and the buyer prefers the other pattern. I aim to have the identical LR setup on both trailers

BUGGER ! ! !

Partially inspired by this thread:confused: , I decided today to continue towards my goal of fitting electric trailer brakes to my green trailer.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/01/1193.jpg

The first question many would ask is "why???".
I guess the answer to that would have to be safety. As shown above the weight of the trailer is 260kgs .... add to that a decent load of firewood or crushed rock and I'm getting close to where I'd be needing/wanting some brakes. Being off road capable, I'd anticipate using it to carry materials for the high country hut works and then brakes would also be of great benefit.

So, why BUGGER

I pulled the wheels off and wheel bearings out today and found them to be different to those in my camper trailer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/04/281.jpg

my research so far suggests that the camper is on what is referred to as "Ford" bearings (1.4t rated) and the green trailer is on "Holden" bearings (1.0t rated).

So, to acheive my goal of identical electric brake setups under both trailers with both on LR wheels (which I already have) I'll need to change the axle on the green trailer.

BUGGER

[Savanahkelpy]

Hi all, although i,m resurecting an old thread, i,m thinking of installing electric brakes on my camper trailer, and i,m wondering how many land rover parts i can use for mounting electric brakes on, such as backing plates, drums, hubs, etc, in order to achieve a high degree of standardisation, regarding wheels, tyres, bearings, seals, wheel nuts, etc, with the tow vehicle (defender)?.
The other reason i,m considering electric brakes is to aviod changing the hitch, which i,m happy to retain.
Thanks, in advance.

[Cap]

Timely thread, I like to know more too.

[harlie]

OMG! Some of the prices quoted here are high… For our new trailers, I purchased the entire kit – axle, with (L’cruiser) braked hubs already assembled for well under $500 (from memory it was more like 440). Just u-bolt it to the springs and connect the wires. They will not provide a warranty on unassembled parts. Only problem is handling and manoeuvring - 45mm sq axle assembled is heavy, but easy enough for two blokes. D1 hubs will be a little bit more, D2 should be about the same (just get commodore and change to M14 studs), however - remember, if using D2 alloys they will need to be bastardised and will no longer be suitable for the car, which is why I didn't bother this time (I did in 2002), not to mention resale (not many people want D2 hubs).

As Dave mentioned above; I ran much heavier cable for the controller (to Pin #5 on the car). In the pics on my build thread you can see how big the loom is from the plug on the trailer, each brake is independently wired terminating in the plug to provide a good +ve source (I’m using the large round – they have very big pins). Also the Earth is looped back to the camper battery charging cable through the Andersen plug – braking performance is superb. (The aux pin (#2) operates reversing lights).

[Shaker]

Hi all, although i,m resurecting an old thread, i,m thinking of installing electric brakes on my camper trailer, and i,m wondering how many land rover parts i can use for mounting electric brakes on, such as backing plates, drums, hubs, etc, in order to achieve a high degree of standardisation, regarding wheels, tyres, bearings, seals, wheel nuts, etc, with the tow vehicle (defender)?.
The other reason i,m considering electric brakes is to aviod changing the hitch, which i,m happy to retain.
Thanks, in advance.

As far as I know the drum & hub are a single assembly & can be obtained with Land Rover stud pattern.

[Camo]

OMG! Some of the prices quoted here are high… For our new trailers, I purchased the entire kit – axle, with (L’cruiser) braked hubs already assembled for well under $500 (from memory it was more like 440). Just u-bolt it to the springs and connect the wires. They will not provide a warranty on unassembled parts. Only problem is handling and manoeuvring - 45mm sq axle assembled is heavy, but easy enough for two blokes. D1 hubs will be a little bit more, D2 should be about the same (just get commodore and change to M14 studs), however - remember, if using D2 alloys they will need to be bastardised and will no longer be suitable for the car, which is why I didn't bother this time (I did in 2002), not to mention resale (not many people want D2 hubs).

As Dave mentioned above; I ran much heavier cable for the controller (to Pin #5 on the car). In the pics on my build thread you can see how big the loom is from the plug on the trailer, each brake is independently wired terminating in the plug to provide a good +ve source (I’m using the large round – they have very big pins). Also the Earth is looped back to the camper battery charging cable through the Andersen plug – braking performance is superb. (The aux pin (#2) operates reversing lights).

Can you let me know where I can get all the gear to do electric brake conversion? seams cheaper than I thought.. I will want to use landcruiser hubs

Cheers

Camo

[harlie]

Can you let me know where I can get all the gear to do electric brake conversion? seams cheaper than I thought.. I will want to use landcruiser hubs

Cheers

Camo

Part List (http://www.activefabrications.com.au/documents/activecataloguejan05%20v2.pdf)
(http://www.activefabrications.com.au/documents/activecataloguejan05%20v2.pdf)
Axles, hubs ect are manufactured on site. Brake systems are Dexter (USA). Parts for my latest build came from Active Fab after AL-KO pi*sed me about again - I will never go back to AL-KO.
To order axle, they require the rim face to outer tyre wall measurement and the overall width of trailer - Make sure you confirm bearing type on ordering

[Camo]

Brilliant!

Thanks Harlie

[roverrescue]

Just to throw a cat amongst the pigeons...
In marine applications electric brakes are generally electric over hydraulic, ie signal from brake controller goes to the brains on the trailer that controls a pump with hydraulic outlet. Think electric master cylinder. Then run hard line to essentially standard hydraulic brake calipers.

If you were running say landy hubs on landy stubs, or any other vehicle hub (ie not trailer hub) you could mount the appropriate discs and hydraulic calipers and then run an electric over hydraulic master...

Steve

[harlie]

Just to throw a cat amongst the pigeons...
In marine applications electric brakes are generally electric over hydraulic, ie signal from brake controller goes to the brains on the trailer that controls a pump with hydraulic outlet. Think electric master cylinder. Then run hard line to essentially standard hydraulic brake calipers.

If you were running say landy hubs on landy stubs, or any other vehicle hub (ie not trailer hub) you could mount the appropriate discs and hydraulic calipers and then run an electric over hydraulic master...

Steve

That's an expensive way of going... Last electric over hydraulic controller I bought was about 8 years ago and cost over $1100 (just for the controller). Most of these also have a slight delay, as the rotary pump builds the required hydraulic pressure, if all is good it's well under 1 sec but that seems like a long time when you're really standing on the picks.

There is one unit available that uses air to operate the master cylinder, they have no delay due to the small air tank but require a special in-cab controller and work out to over $2000, and you still have not bought any discs, callipers ect

[roverrescue]

All fair points Harlie,
But if you have scalped a rover axle or any other axle for your hubs and stubs, you have the hardware for stoppers. All you need is some hardline and a few brass fittings.
Ive only had experience with the Brakerite unit, can be got from the States for well cheaper than local? (US$500). I believe it has a 30msec response time?
Probably more applicable for marine trailers, but also the benefit of not having electric brake shoes rattling / rusting to death is a plus?

Steve