Series 2A 2.25 diesel fuel priming

[Gromit68]

Hi folks

Time is coming up for Gromit's 6 monthly engine oil / oil filter / fuel filter change.

Oil and filter change is usually no problem. But fuel filter changing always causes grief!

Questions for you all:

1) How many fuel filters are there to actually change? Is it just the one paper element filter that fits on near the injector pump? Or are there more sedimentors/filters further back that will need replacement too?

2) Once the new filter is screwed on, do I need to fill it with diesel before tightening it all up?

3) I know where the priming lever is (a little metal thing that goes up and down, a fair way down the engine bay. I can never get it to pump. What are the correct steps for priming an elderly LR diesel?

thanks

Alastair
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'Gromit' 2A SWB diesel

[JDNSW]

There may be one or two CAV type filters mounted on the bulkhead (I have never seen only one). Bleeding procedure in the manual is as follows:-

"1. Do not attempt to start the engine hoping to draw the fuel through this way otherwise the full priming procedure will be necessary.

2. Slacken the bleed pipe or air vent screw as the case may be, on top of the filter which has had the replacement element fitted.

3. Operate the hand priming lever on the mechanical pump, until fuel free from bubbles emerges.

4. Tighten the bleed pipe or air vent screw.

5. Operate the hand priming lever once or twice to clear the last bubbles of air into the filter bleed pipe.

6. Start the engine in normal way and check for leaks.

B - When the fuel system has been completely emptied proceed as follows:-

7. Carry out operations above, 1 to 5 inclusive.

8. Release the air vent screw on the distributor body

9. Operate the fuel pump hand priming lever until fuel free from air emerges.

10. Retighten the air vent screw

11. To ensure that all air is exhausted from the pump it may be necessary to slacken vent screw B in the distributor control cover and repeat items 9 and 10.

Always ensure that the fuel pump lever is on the bottom of the operating cam when priming the fuel system, otherwise maximum movement of the priming lever will not be obtained."

If the hand priming lever does not pump, it may be necessary to turn the engine half a turn or so to make sure that the pump operating lever is on the bottom of the cam. If this does not work, it is likely that the pump is sick (probably dirt under a valve) or there is a restriction in the suction line or an air leak in the suction line or both. These problems should be fixed even apart from the bleeding problem to avoid the possibility of dying on the road.

I find it easier to do this sort of thing with the bonnet folded back against the windscreen (tie it back to avoid accidents if ther is a gust of wind) and a four gallon drum to stand on.

John