CDL Actuator Install for Disco II

[Redback]

Well it's in and alot easier than i thought, the only problem was that the dog clutch in the transfer case is stuck and is causing the CDL not too engage.

First step was Unclip the gearstick gaiters. Unscrew both gearknobs. Remove the top half of the main gearstick by removing the bolt at the join completely and sliding off.
Remove the rubber cover from the gearstick area. Unclip the handbrake gaiter from the top, and peel it forwards. Remove the plastic fascia around the window switches and unscrew the switchplate. Twist it and push it into the console.
Remove the pin which connects the handbrake to the handbrake cable. Remove 2 screws from inside the cubby box, and 2 screws from just in front of the transfer box lever. You can now start to lift the whole binnacle out. As you do so, disconnect the cigarette lighter connection from underneath, and remove the bulb holder.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/DSC08026.jpg
Lift out the foam around the gear lever area and remove the passeger side heater vent. Unscrew the bracket at the front of the area. Peel the carpet back and drill out the 13 or 14 rivets (depending on which plate you have) from the steel plate around the gear levers. Remove this upwards through the console.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/DSC08027.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Unscrew the existing Transfer Box shift mechanism from the steel plate. Match the plate up to the new mechanism. Depending on your plate, you may need to enlarge the aperture for the gearstick. This can be done by chain drilling and/or sawing. Leave the new mechanism separate for now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/DSC08031.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Look down into the large hole you"ve just opened up, to find the CDL spigot or in my case the AMV actuator and remove it from on the top of the transfer box, once removed the CDL spigot is visable, and is a threaded shaft with an oval profile at the base, in the middle of a triangle of three bolts. Undo the frontmost and left-hand bolts of the three.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/DSC08034.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Take the lever end of the new mechanism and force it down towards the CDL spigot. The mounting bracket will attach to the top of the transfer box using the two bolts you just removed. Screw these bolts in loosely. The tail of the cable should be running forwards.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/DSC08042.jpg
Match up the keyed loop at the end of the cable to the CDL spigot. Make sure you have it the right way up Using your M8 Nylock nut, and a washer, bolt it down to the spigot.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Clunk the new gearstick from side to side to see if the mechanism engages. It will be hard to move because it's not bolted to the plate, If you do this with the ignition on, you can see the CDL light lighting up when it"s engaged.
If it needs adjusting, you can adjust the two nuts either side of the mounting bracket, on the cable which is now mounted to the top of the transfer box casing. Make sure these are tight before you go any further.
Line up the new lever with roughly the space it"s going to go in when you bolt the whole lot back together. You may have to do some shoving to get it in place, as the new cable will get in the way.
Put the steel plate back into its hole and get a couple of rivets in to hold it in place. Force the new gearstick into its rightful place and bolt it back to the plate.
Rivet the plate back in. You"ll only be able to get 13 rivets in ( mine only has 13 rivets but there is an extra hole where the 14th rivot is supposed to go) as the front right rivet will be blocked off by the new cable mechanism. After that, refitting is the reverse of removal.
The actual job would of only taken me 3hrs to do, but unfortunately for me i spent alot of time trying to find out why it wouldn't engage and in the end it was discovered it was the dog clutch in the transfer box sticking.
Very frustrating but now i know i can get it fixed and finally finish the job.
Once i get it repaired i will take photos of the steps of cutting the wire to stop the disabling of the TC/ABS when you turn the ignition off when the CDL is engaged.
Baz.

[TJS-70Y]

Can I ask where you got the actuator/shifter from? Thanks

Thomas

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Nice job Baz:D

[Redback]

Can I ask where you got the actuator/shifter from? Thanks

Thomas

From AMV in their second hand parts section, they wrecked a 2004 model Disco 2a, whatever you do DON'T get the electric actuator:mad: it fails after about 12mths.

Baz.

[TJS-70Y]

Thanks I might have to have a look for one of those. Im gathering this means you have 2 selectors now in your car? Have you got a pic by any chance of the console etc back in?I had heard that the electronic ones fail. Did it come with the cable etc? What do I ask for if I am looking for one? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

Thomas

[Redback]

Thanks I might have to have a look for one of those. Im gathering this means you have 2 selectors now in your car? Have you got a pic by any chance of the console etc back in?I had heard that the electronic ones fail. Did it come with the cable etc? What do I ask for if I am looking for one? Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

Thomas

No the electric actuator doesn't have a cable, it works straight off the spigot on the transfer case, it's basicly a window winder motor.

Only one selector, you replace the hi/low lever with the D2a hi/low lever, it's now a D2a centre diff selector.

[Redback]

Part 2 CDL install

Next was to cut the foam insulation that cover to match the transmission hump inspection plate.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5047.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5049.jpg
Then it was time to put the plate in place a rivet it back onto the transmission hump, it needs to be slid inside the hump and then bolt the CDL lever to it and then rivet in place.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5052.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5054.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5055.jpg
Right it's in, now you put the front bracket in that holds the console in place
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5058.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5061.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5063.jpg
Then put back the rear heater tunnell and screw it back in
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5060.jpg
It is now ready to put the console back in place, the handbrake cable needs to be diconnected to pull the handle straight up for easier install.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5064.jpg
then screw in place and put the gear knobs and rubber mat back on and it's done.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5065.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v293/bazzar/101_5069.jpg

All up it should take around 4 to 5hrs to do the lot without any interuptions.

Only thing left now is to cut the wire that disables the TC/ABS when the difflock is in and you turn the ignition off.

Baz.

[FenianEel]

Wow! Great job and great tutorial Baz.

Slainte

[Redback]

Wow! Great job and great tutorial Baz.

Slainte

Thanks mate:)

It would have been better if i hadn't had the transfer case problems:(

It wasn't as hard to do as i thought it would be, in fact it is pretty easy to do.

It is so much easier to lock it in now, if i'd only known this 2yrs ago:D

Baz.

[Signal1]

Yep, great Tutorial.

When replacing the two bolts around the CDL spigot after placing the bracket, does any loctite or similar need to go on the bolt thread? Might it leak at all or weep?

Thanks,
Peter

[colrospeake]

Redback
Please help me --- I went looking for a 2004 hi/lo cdl set up and the dealer I was talking to asked if I knew which one as there are 4 different styles of cdl assemblies . All about a vin number and He quoted me in the like 800 for thew stick alone I await your responce eagerly.
Colin

[Signal1]

Redback
Please help me --- I went looking for a 2004 hi/lo cdl set up and the dealer I was talking to asked if I knew which one as there are 4 different styles of cdl assemblies . All about a vin number and He quoted me in the like 800 for thew stick alone I await your responce eagerly.
Colin

First I've heard of different actuators being available. Might he have meant that there are different transfer cases fitted to the Series II Discovery i.e. 99-01 CDL Fitted (not connected), 01-02 No CDL Fitted, 03-04 CDL Fitted & Connected.

Have to leave the VIN details to Redback but on pricing:

'04 Actuator (read: Hi/Lo Lever) cable, bracket, handle & sticker to replace the current Hi/Lo only one - my two quotes have been $900 & $1100 from Melbourne LR Dealers. From the UK, I was still looking at $700AU. FYI! :(

[colrospeake]

I think I have found an alternative.. British Off road has a kit that joins the low linkage to the cdl. They dont sell it as a kit but will fit it for $ 330 sound good. No electrics even better. I think I will go for a drive to Nambour
I dont think there will be any problems if it is only hooked to the low selecter
Any opinions
Thanks for the information
Colin

[Piddler]

I think I have found an alternative.. British Off road has a kit that joins the low linkage to the cdl. They dont sell it as a kit but will fit it for $ 330 sound good. No electrics even better. I think I will go for a drive to Nambour
I dont think there will be any problems if it is only hooked to the low selecter
Any opinions
Thanks for the information
Colin


I have one for the same price got from BD only works in low range but works a treat.

Cheers

[tombraider]

I think I have found an alternative.. British Off road has a kit that joins the low linkage to the cdl. They dont sell it as a kit but will fit it for $ 330 sound good. No electrics even better. I think I will go for a drive to Nambour
I dont think there will be any problems if it is only hooked to the low selecter
Any opinions
Thanks for the information
Colin

I'd advise against it....

You lose the ability to lock the centre in on fast dirt and sand work...

CDL in high is VERY usable and handy....

I landed a D2a CDL for $550.00

[ladas]

I'd advise against it....

You lose the ability to lock the centre in on fast dirt and sand work...

CDL in high is VERY usable and handy....

I landed a D2a CDL for $550.00

Got to say - I tend to agree - if you are going to the effort - you might as well get it working properly/fully - not just in LOW

[Signal1]

I think I have found an alternative.. British Off road has a kit that joins the low linkage to the cdl.
Colin

I will be putting the proper kit in to work with Hi & Lo. CDL is great on fast dirt and sand as tombraider stated. If it connects to Lo, sounds like it engages whenever Lo is selected :confused: , if that's the case, then you loose the ability to use Lo on the hard stuff i.e. backing the trailer up the driveway etc.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I think I have found an alternative.. British Off road has a kit that joins the low linkage to the cdl. They dont sell it as a kit but will fit it for $ 330 sound good. No electrics even better. I think I will go for a drive to Nambour
I dont think there will be any problems if it is only hooked to the low selecter
Any opinions
Thanks for the information
Colin

Hi Colin, after 10 years of CDL ownership, I can tell you a major part of its function is in high range.

[colrospeake]

For a while I though I had found the easy Fix. I would love to find a d2a cdl but I am running out of options. Any thoughts as to where I may source such a beast. I have neally exhausted all Qld wreckers and short of going out an smashing the first Disco I see --- Na- I wouldnt But some times I .

Aulro people -- anybody -- any ideas of spare parts /wreckers in any state
I would love to hear from anyone that may have an idea of someone wrecking a disco with a cdl unit for sale.
Thanks
Colin

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Hi Colin, how about a
Landy Andy type fix untill you find one?

simple, cheap, could possibly be made bullet proof,
but it works.

[colrospeake]

Pedro the perfect
Show me the way to a cheap cdl I WANT ONE
I am basically a none spending person. More Desiel forget the beer
If you have an alternative PLEASE EXPLAIN.
I await you next installment
colin

[HAK]

Pedro the perfect
Show me the way to a cheap cdl I WANT ONE
I am basically a none spending person. More Desiel forget the beer
If you have an alternative PLEASE EXPLAIN.
I await you next installment
colin

Please dont stop with the info I need as much as I can get :o

[HAK]

i will take photos of the steps of cutting the wire to stop the disabling of the TC/ABS when you turn the ignition off when the CDL is engaged.
Baz.[/QUOTE]

Hi Baz can you advise why the above wires are cut :eek:

[Signal1]

If the CDL is engaged without the engine being turned off & on, TC/ABS still operates. If you engage CDL then turn the engine off i.e. stop for lunch & take off again, the TC/ABS will not operate; an important point to remember if you expect it to work at a particular point.

By cutting the wires you are blocking the CDL Engaged signal to the ECU and therefore not disabling your ABS & TC.

[HAK]

If the CDL is engaged without the engine being turned off & on, TC/ABS still operates. If you engage CDL then turn the engine off i.e. stop for lunch & take off again, the TC/ABS will not operate; an important point to remember if you expect it to work at a particular point.

By cutting the wires you are blocking the CDL Engaged signal to the ECU and therefore not disabling your ABS & TC.

AH HA cant you just simply disable the CDL start the car and reengage CDL leaving ABS TC still on :eek:

[Signal1]

Yes but that may become a tedious operation if stalling frequently (read: stall recoveries - steep inclines etc).

That's if you're in a manual...;)

[Redback]

Yes but that may become a tedious operation if stalling frequently (read: stall recoveries - steep inclines etc).

That's if you're in a manual...;)

As long as you don't turn the ignition off, stalling and re-starting won't disable the TC/ABS, thank god (i stall alot, hey Phil;))

Baz

[BigJon]

As long as you don't turn the ignition off, stalling and re-starting won't disable the TC/ABS, thank god (i stall alot, hey Phil;))

Baz

Most LRs you have to turn the ignition off if you stall, because you can only turn the key to the crank position once per ignition on cycle. Are DIIs different?

[Redback]

Most LRs you have to turn the ignition off if you stall, because you can only turn the key to the crank position once per ignition on cycle. Are DIIs different?

Yes, you can just re-start without turning the key to the off position.

Baz.

[aaron.miller]

For those after a cheap foolproof cdl actuator, this is what i am going to try and make, shouldnt cost more than $20 to make. http://www.rovershoppe.com/cdl_handle.html
You will need to get out of the car to engage/disengage the cdl but it beats climbing under the car with a 10mm spanner and getting icy cold water dripping on your arm whilst you try not to burn your arm on the exhaust pipe

Aaron

[mcrover]

For those after a cheap foolproof cdl actuator, this is what i am going to try and make, shouldnt cost more than $20 to make. http://www.rovershoppe.com/cdl_handle.html
You will need to get out of the car to engage/disengage the cdl but it beats climbing under the car with a 10mm spanner and getting icy cold water dripping on your arm whilst you try not to burn your arm on the exhaust pipe

Aaron

Thats a great/cheap solution but you still have to get out but $70us beats $300au up for the other ones.

I think I will keep my D1.

[aaron.miller]

Until I get around to building the above kit myself, I bought the bit that goes on the bolt for $10 from the lr spares/wreckers place on moxon road at punchbowl. Then i bolted it onto the thread with the m8 nut, but i found that i couldn't get enough leverage just by grabbing it with my hand. So i got a mate to weld a piece of rod steel about 10 cm long onto the actuator bit. Now i can just climb under and grab the lever and flick it into position.
Its a lot better then getting all twisted up underneath as you try and get your 10mm spanner on the bolt and moving it while the icy cold water splashes on your arm.

Aaron

[Stewie]

Great instructions Baz. I wish I had seen these a few months ago before I fitted my CDL. I cheated a little by not drilling out the rivets, I just simply opened up the whole to accomodate the new CDL kit that I got off a 04 Dicso.
My only issue now is that I cannot seem to disengage the TC and ABS when the CDL is engaged. I have read all of the forums and spoke to heaps of people about the method of being able to disengage the TC and ABS by :- Engaging CDL, turn off the engine and then restart while CDL is still engaged. I'm led to believe that this should disable the TC and ABS howver mine does not seem to do this. Can you offer any advice as the whole reson for fitting the kit was so that I could have CDL and no TC and ABS for when I go 4wd'ing on sand etc. It's driving me crazy!!!!

[tombraider]

Great instructions Baz. I wish I had seen these a few months ago before I fitted my CDL. I cheated a little by not drilling out the rivets, I just simply opened up the whole to accomodate the new CDL kit that I got off a 04 Dicso.
My only issue now is that I cannot seem to disengage the TC and ABS when the CDL is engaged. I have read all of the forums and spoke to heaps of people about the method of being able to disengage the TC and ABS by :- Engaging CDL, turn off the engine and then restart while CDL is still engaged. I'm led to believe that this should disable the TC and ABS howver mine does not seem to do this. Can you offer any advice as the whole reson for fitting the kit was so that I could have CDL and no TC and ABS for when I go 4wd'ing on sand etc. It's driving me crazy!!!!

Nothing wrong with TC on sand...

We never have an issue and we play in LOTS of sand....

In fact, if you have tyre pressure right, TC barely functions on sand.

[aaron.miller]

Stewie,
What year is your disco.
On the early ones like mine a 99 model after fitting the cdl actuator i had to cut a wire behind the glovebox. This was so that if you turned off the vehicle with the cdl engaged when you restarted it the abs/etc wasn't turned off.
Reading the installation instructions from ashcroft transmissions website it says the cutting of the wire is only for pre 2003 models.

Please note :

This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.



Aaron

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Thats a great/cheap solution but you still have to get out but $70us beats $300au up for the other ones.

I think I will keep my D1.

there really is no comparison.:D

[SmokyBear]

Could you please tell me whether the original hi/lo selector cable is used in conjunction with the new mechanism, or does a new cable need to be fitted here as well?

[Redback]

Could you please tell me whether the original hi/lo selector cable is used in conjunction with the new mechanism, or does a new cable need to be fitted here as well?

You will need a new lever and the cable to activate the Centre diff lock, you retain the original hi/lo cable and put it on your new lever.

The lever needs to move sideways and the original one won't.

Baz.

[SmokyBear]

Thanks Baz.

I just picked up the CDL mechanism from an '04 Disco & was hoping I could beat the wrecker down even further by leaving the hi/lo cable with him. He wouldn't budge any further on price, so I took it anyway.

Mind you, I don't think I have any reason to complain ..... at $385 I almost felt like I stole it .... haha.

I got it from Tony's Auto Wreckers in Midvale WA, btw.

[Redback]

Thanks Baz.

I just picked up the CDL mechanism from an '04 Disco & was hoping I could beat the wrecker down even further by leaving the hi/lo cable with him. He wouldn't budge any further on price, so I took it anyway.

Mind you, I don't think I have any reason to complain ..... at $385 I almost felt like I stole it .... haha.

I got it from Tony's Auto Wreckers in Midvale WA, btw.

Good price, i got mine from AMV for $375, i may of got your discount cause they wasn't a hi/lo cable with mine:D

Baz.

[SmokyBear]

I now have my new CDL linkage installed & working fine. Easy job, took about 2 hours all-up.

Regarding the wire that needs to be cut to avoid the traction control / hill descent issues, which wire is it?

[Redback]

I now have my new CDL linkage installed & working fine. Easy job, took about 2 hours all-up.

Regarding the wire that needs to be cut to avoid the traction control / hill descent issues, which wire is it?

This is from the Ashcrofts Engineering website

To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :
This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

Baz.

[cucinadio]

baz,

nice job mate, dont know why they ever took the the bloody thing out in the first place ???

cheers

[gooddog]

great tutorial bloke....
Just querying on the wire that disables the TC/ABS...where is it and what colour? I was wondering if you could cut it and put a switch on it to enable/disable it at call without having to turn off the engine or disabling your CDL...for example, going up a hill with CDL/no TC/ABS then going down again using CDL/descent control (descent control wont work if TC/ABS are disabled.)
Bit af a mind-job...sorry!

anyone done anything like this?

[gooddog]

By the way, if youre a broke bloke like me do what i did...drill a small hole in the gear box tunnel and made a makeshift lever coming through out of a paint tin handle and the knob off a car cigarette lighter! Its a bit awkward to reach dowm to the floor but will suffice until i can afford to do it properly!

[aaron.miller]

Hi Gooddog,
Taken from the ashcroft transmissions website

To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :

This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

Aaron

[Shaker]

What would you expect to pay for the D2A CDL shift mechanism?

[FenianEel]

What would you expect to pay for the D2A CDL shift mechanism?
For the original factory bit, i.e., cables etc about $600 I think. :(
Thats seems to be the going rate from most places, if you can get a hold of one.
PM me if you want one, I know where there are a couple.

[Shaker]

Will the actuator assembly off 96 Disco 1 fit a 2000 TD5 Manual?

[Redback]

Will the actuator assembly off 96 Disco 1 fit a 2000 TD5 Manual?

Hi shaker, i don't think it will, the D1 has a linkage system and i don't think there is enough room in the trans tunnel for it to work properly.

You would also need to modify it for it to fit, the bracket is different as is the mounting place.

I reckon if you can get the D2a cable and mounting bracket, i can't see why you couldn't modify a D1 lever too activate it.

Last time i priced a cable assembly it was $175 from LR, THE D2a LEVER was over $600 and that didn't include the gear knob:eek:

Baz.

[jaacina]

Will the actuator assembly off 96 Disco 1 fit a 2000 TD5 Manual?

I put a Disco I Transfer Case shifter on my 1999 Discovery II V8 Automatic with 4HP22. It had the mounting point for the shifter on the transmission. Had to cut a hole in the plate covering the transmission and transfer box where the original shifter was located. It works well, shifts in and out when I use it during the snow storms we get here in the northern USA.

Currently I am in the process of replacing my 4HP22 since reverse has gone out. I am going to put in a low mileage 4HP24. The 4HP22 does not have a mounting point for the Disco I CDL, so I am going to get a 2004 CDL cable linkage for mine.

[Rosscoe68]

i did the budget option.
1/4 drive socket welded onto a length of chrome steel shower screen curtain bar with a handle on the top. drilled a hole through the plastic and tunnel and dropped it down. took about 1/2 hour to do. works a treat. will take some pics and post up later today.

[Redback]

This is from the Ashcrofts Engineering website

To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :
This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

Baz.


Hi Gooddog,
Taken from the ashcroft transmissions website

To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :

This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

Aaron

I think there is an echo in this thread:twisted:

Read the posts people:spudnikconfounded:

[3 Lions]

I have a 2000 V8 auto, was looking at fitting the CDL actuator from a late D2 to engage my CDL. Now I take it I will be replacing the actual lever? Does anyone have a diagram or picture of the whole lot before fitting as I have found a place near me who reckon they can get one in for me tomorrow for $575 brand new, does this sound right? Not 100% convinced as the bloke on the other end didn't sound 100% sure, I did explain what I was after, just want to be sure when I rock up there tomorrow, and not buy the wrong parts. Excellent tutorial Baz, will hopefully be giving it a go and fitting it myself, cheers everyone.:cool:

[AussieAub]

i did the budget option.
1/4 drive socket welded onto a length of chrome steel shower screen curtain bar with a handle on the top. drilled a hole through the plastic and tunnel and dropped it down. took about 1/2 hour to do. works a treat. will take some pics and post up later today.

Any progress on those pics mate......?

Cheers,

..:: KIEREN ::..
2000 Disco II Auto V8
AussieAubs Disco Page (http://aussieaub.blogspot.com/)

[Ballas]

Hi Rosscoe68 - have you been able to get the pics up yet for the CDL part?


Any progress on those pics mate......?

Cheers,

..:: KIEREN ::..
2000 Disco II Auto V8
AussieAubs Disco Page (http://aussieaub.blogspot.com/)

[Redback]

I have a 2000 V8 auto, was looking at fitting the CDL actuator from a late D2 to engage my CDL. Now I take it I will be replacing the actual lever? Does anyone have a diagram or picture of the whole lot before fitting as I have found a place near me who reckon they can get one in for me tomorrow for $575 brand new, does this sound right? Not 100% convinced as the bloke on the other end didn't sound 100% sure, I did explain what I was after, just want to be sure when I rock up there tomorrow, and not buy the wrong parts. Excellent tutorial Baz, will hopefully be giving it a go and fitting it myself, cheers everyone.:cool:

Hi Col, here ya go
http://217.34.53.228:9876/uploads/cdl1.jpg


Baz.

[Ports]

Just want to be sure as I have had difficulty finding a disco II CDL actuator. Is the DI low range gear knob and actuator compatable with the Disco II.
Earlier posts suggest that I need to buy a new actuator (Cable) and then I could fit a D1 low range gear shift

Has anyone actually done this conversion and can positively confirm this is right?

:cool:

[Redback]

Just want to be sure as I have had difficulty finding a disco II CDL actuator. Is the DI low range gear knob and actuator compatable with the Disco II.
Earlier posts suggest that I need to buy a new actuator (Cable) and then I could fit a D1 low range gear shift

Has anyone actually done this conversion and can positively confirm this is right?

:cool:

D1 is different and can't be used with the cable unless you modify it, also it will depend on what your D2 is auto or manual, the D1 lever won't fit in the transmission tunnel in one of them, sorry can't remember which one.

Baz.

[disco_thrasher]

This is from the Ashcrofts Engineering website

To finish off the job...

1) Disconnect the battery. Unscrew the four hex screws in the glove box hinges. Reach round the side of the glove box with each hand and pull the closing mechanism upwards. Slide the glove box out

2) Pull out the 3 push-studs on the black cardboard panel underneath the glovebox, and undo the screw stud at the back. Remove the panel.

3) Near the outer side of the gap behind the glove box, you will see 2 or 3 ECUs, depending on whether you have ACE, I think. The SLABS ECU is the centre of the three, or the outside of the two. It has 5 black connector blocks underneath. Remove the centre block of the five from underneath the ECU.

4) Look for the black & blue wire running to pin 9 of the connector block, which is the central pin on the lower row, i.e. the row furthest from the retaining clips. At this point, make sure you have the right connector, and the right pin!

5) Cut this black & blue wire & tape off the ends. (Give enough space to solder it back together if you find out you have cut the wrong one...) Reconnect the connector. Replace the panel and the glovebox. Reconnect the battery.

Please note :
This is not needed for 2003 on (facelift) models as the ECU has been reprogrammed to take care of NOT disabling traction control/ABS when CDL in engaged, when ignition is switched on.

To test: engage the CDL and start the car up. The CDL light should be lit, but the ABS/TC lights should not be lit up. This is correct - it means that the SLABS ECU is not disabling ABS/TC when you start the car up with the diff lock engaged

Baz.


Hey can anyone help me here as i have done the above before i did it i put it in cdl the light came on then disengaged it turned the car of disconnected battery ,mine does not have ace so went for the outside computor middle plug found the blue/black cable furtherest away from clippy thingy cut it electrical taped it put everything back together turned the car on engaged cdl no cdl light came on drove fwd and back to see if i can engaged it no light turned it the other way i still have to climb under the car to engage it and no light still what have i done ?!
please help
Cheers Kelvin

[Wil2k]

Damn. I should have guessed the transfer/CDL shifter assembly would be a) expensive and b) hard to find. I guess its off to hunt around wreckers etc then.. I did spy a used one on eBay but it's in the US.

Can anyone tell me how to identify the correct model D2 (in terms a non-Landy buff would understand) so I can try to hunt up something from a wreckers etc.

I'm guessing this thread is populated my non-fans of the electrical actuators.. :D A few people have said they work well.. any comments?

Anyone wrecking anything that might be useful? Anyone got one in they don't want? ;)

Cheers

Wil

[Redback]

Damn. I should have guessed the transfer/CDL shifter assembly would be a) expensive and b) hard to find. I guess its off to hunt around wreckers etc then.. I did spy a used one on eBay but it's in the US.

Can anyone tell me how to identify the correct model D2 (in terms a non-Landy buff would understand) so I can try to hunt up something from a wreckers etc.

I'm guessing this thread is populated my non-fans of the electrical actuators.. :D A few people have said they work well.. any comments?

Anyone wrecking anything that might be useful? Anyone got one in they don't want? ;)

Cheers

Wil

D2a update 03 on

My electric actuator lasted 12mths, it started to play up after about 6mths, if you can find a way of sealing it from the elements, it may last a bit longer, maybe.

[Narangga]

I'll add my thanks too Baz!

I'm locked and ready to go :D

[freedriver]

Thanks for the great tut. Baz.I will be using it next week when i fit ont to my 2000td5.

I have a question , my d2 has no internals for the cdl and i have found a tc from a 04 d2 . Can i just fit this to mine or are there more mods required apart from the more alterations shown in the tut?

And. Will mine have a light on the dash?
If any one out there can answer these questions i will be very greatful.
Thanks.Bill

[Redback]

Thanks for the great tut. Baz.I will be using it next week when i fit ont to my 2000td5.

I have a question , my d2 has no internals for the cdl and i have found a tc from a 04 d2 . Can i just fit this to mine or are there more mods required apart from the more alterations shown in the tut?

And. Will mine have a light on the dash?
If any one out there can answer these questions i will be very greatful.
Thanks.Bill

Yep just fit the 04 TC, I'm assuming the lever and cable came with it, if so the only mod is the wire cut (optional of coarse) the light is in all D2s and will come on when you engage the CDL.

Baz.

[Coconut87]

Gday

I'm thinking of an upgrade from my trusty old 60 series Cruiser to a D2 TD5 auto, this whole thread has been fantastic and is now saved in my favorites page so when i get my grubby hands on a D2 i can also do this mod, if i get one without a factory CDL, but my question is.........the wires to the ABS/TRAC computer, are these ohm measured wires?? in other words if i wire it to a simple on/off switch will it interfere (other then when i have it turned off) so i can turn it off in high range CDL unlocked and have a bit of wheel spinning fun in mud

[OffTrack]

Gday

I'm thinking of an upgrade from my trusty old 60 series Cruiser to a D2 TD5 auto, this whole thread has been fantastic and is now saved in my favorites page so when i get my grubby hands on a D2 i can also do this mod, if i get one without a factory CDL, but my question is.........the wires to the ABS/TRAC computer, are these ohm measured wires?? in other words if i wire it to a simple on/off switch will it interfere (other then when i have it turned off) so i can turn it off in high range CDL unlocked and have a bit of wheel spinning fun in mud

It's an on/off switch but it only indicates to the SLABS ECU that the diff lock is engaged/disengaged. On 1999-2002MY D2's if the SLABS ECU detects the CDL is engaged when the engine is started it switches to a program which disables ETC and operates ABS, ABS and EBD at reduced performance.

The only way to switch off the ETC completely in high range with CDL unlocked is to pull the ABS pump relay. You could rig up a switch to do this.

Just be warned, the centre diff is not designed to be abused in this way. Companies like Ashcroft Transmissions in the UK claim that 10-20 seconds of continuous spinning of the centre diff gears is enough to weld them to their cross pins. If you don't mind exchanging your hard earn dollars for transfer case rebuilds every time you want to have some "fun" that is your prerogative, but you'd probably be better off sticking with the Cruiser if that is the way you want to play.

cheers
Paul

[iPom]

The Oracle has spoken Mr Coconut87....Take heed...

[nismine01]

I've just fitted a Disco I CDL to my DII, cost about $40 from a local wrecker. It bolts to the transfer case, is all lever operated and works a treat, glad I had it, just drove back from Pt Lincoln to Nairne in rear wheel drive only but that's another story.
Piece of the proverbial to fit to a manual but I had to move my A/T selector 40mm the the left to have the cable clear the new CDL fitting.
I had to fabricate a new centre section bit all is great now.

Mike

[rangieman]

I've just fitted a Disco I CDL to my DII, cost about $40 from a local wrecker. It bolts to the transfer case, is all lever operated and works a treat, glad I had it, just drove back from Pt Lincoln to Nairne in rear wheel drive only but that's another story.
Piece of the proverbial to fit to a manual but I had to move my A/T selector 40mm the the left to have the cable clear the new CDL fitting.
I had to fabricate a new centre section bit all is great now.

Mike

As they say
:ttiwwp: