View Full Version : Restoration www.site
ozboz
12th June 2007, 01:06 PM
Hiya, I posted this on REMLR as well, but maybe a lot of AULRO do not visit there and this maybe of some use to all. ......... I have just had the bulkhead ( 30 year old lightweight style ) dipped and stripped of all old paint, not a micro of Old Military anything on it !! but ......there are little holes in places that need fixing up properly, I did not think it would have been realistic to have them patched up with welding plates everywhere, I was pondering on a specific soloution to this problem. I remembered being in a smash repair place in Logan Village, QLD. They specialize in restoring Classic Cars, there was an old 40's style Buick in. I noticed lots of little metal repairs all over the wings. the p beater told me they were old repairs, probably using some form of solder, anyway this came to mind when pondering how to fix up this perforated bulkhead ive got for the Rock Ape. Next step, check out the www. This restorers site has popped up and seems to have everything I would need, from materials, tools, books and DVS's. There may be a similar site in Aus, worth checking out. Ive ordered a book that shows how to use solder to repair metal, also there are DVD's that shows how to gas weld aluminium, form shapes and make patterns for shapes. I dont think that postage for books and DVD's and such are to high from here to Aus, I post stuff to the family all the time and its only a few quid. But to me as an Amature Restorer some of this stuff looks to be invalueable.Just knowing stuff is available be it UK, in Aus or the States is going to make my project more ' do able ' :D ok then, catch you all later Steve aka ozboz ;) site ..........http://www.frost.co.uk/
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mark2
12th June 2007, 07:46 PM
I took mine to a local welding place who were able to easily fill all the pin holes with a mig welder and weld in a plate I had pre-prepared. At $65 an hour - it took one hour .:)
I did this after it was sand blasted which tends to really identify the weakspots. Not sure if chemical dipping would have the same searching effect on rust pinholes (I assume you're talking about rust holes). After a touch with an angle grinder, a coat of industrial primer and then some olive drab, it looked like new.
mcrover
12th June 2007, 08:06 PM
Id assume your talking about lead wiping
ozboz
13th June 2007, 01:35 AM
I have been to the www. Shop to day, it is only a few miles away. I bought a small book about solder repair. It is American and shows how to repair small and large rust affected areas. It does involve shaping and wiping solder. Also there are many types of solder and it identifies which ones are best for automotive repairs. They are on a % basis, tin and lead. Melting points and stuff, but a does show a 30/70 soldered joint bent over 90 deg and the solder did not fracture. This ratio seems to be the better for motor panel repair, a 50/50 ratio reduces flex but strengthens the repair, so on structural repairson bulkheads etc it would be ok, once shaped and sanded it would not be detectable. I will have a dabble at this and see what how it turns out, i'll take some photos and pop em on here. The dip and strip did reveal all, and there is no distortion to panels this way. I have had a lot of the alluminium panels done, they take on the appearance of brand new when completed, I will be having axles blasted, then epoxy coated, Ok then , Seeya Steve :)
George130
13th June 2007, 07:44 PM
I have been to the www. Shop to day, it is only a few miles away. I bought a small book about solder repair. It is American and shows how to repair small and large rust affected areas. It does involve shaping and wiping solder. Also there are many types of solder and it identifies which ones are best for automotive repairs. They are on a % basis, tin and lead. Melting points and stuff, but a does show a 30/70 soldered joint bent over 90 deg and the solder did not fracture. This ratio seems to be the better for motor panel repair, a 50/50 ratio reduces flex but strengthens the repair, so on structural repairson bulkheads etc it would be ok, once shaped and sanded it would not be detectable.
My brother (One of many) had to do this type of repairs when doing his apprenticeship in panel beating. The repair shop wouldn't allow then to use bog. It was all lead/solder wipe and hand file.
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