Paint jobs

[Rayngie]

Can anyone help, I'm wanting to get enough 'home handy man' gear to paint my Disco.

having never painted a car before, i don't know what to get, the reasons for this is:

A: I've always wanted to paint a car.

B: My car needs a paint.

Both fair reason's I think, I'm not after a concours car here, just got fading paint on the roof and bonnet and want to get rid of it, and may as well get rid of the scratches at the same time.

so, CHEAPLY....., for a driveway *******, what should i look to get?

any help appreciated,

Ray

[Wazza]

so, CHEAPLY....., for a driveway *******, what should i look to get?

any help appreciated,

Ray


a $2 hooker:o:o:o;)

Someone had to say it.


Wazza

[mudmouse]

Mate, i did a back to bare metal/'not a bolt left in her' resto of a '71 Capri in the garage - and it was a mongrel of a job!!! They say the preparation is critical!!! to the quality of the end product and it's absolutely true.

My list included:

1) Compressor - 50litre (minimum) GMC brand - $100 at Supercheap - inlcuded fittings and a crap suction fed gun - go for a gravity gun $$.
2) 25m airline and water trap.
3) 'Tack' rags - it's a sticky rag to clean little bits of crap off the body before spraying.
4) various grades of paper - depends on surface paint.
5) Good space to prime and paint - double garage with good ventilation - away from the clothesline too! Decide what type of paint you want o use too because there are regulations for unfiltered use of some paints.
6) Consumables include, thinners, primer, colour, clearcoat etc..
7) An extra ball of tether, because you will soon reach the end of the one you have... i think the little bugs that fly around will want to help you too!

I did some volunteer work in a panel shop on weekends to pick up some points and things to look for, which was great. If you get a chance to speak with someone in the trade, go for it because it's something i always wanted to do too but it can be a huge job/nightmare. I've got some gear that you're welcome to use - send me a PM if you need a hand.

[crump]

a mate of mine once painted an XP 2 door with a brush and it came up OK, not great but Ok, depends on how good of finish you want.

[Camo]

True

Mate of mine painted his with a brush aswell.. he painted an old S3 landy with hammertone which he bought from bunnings.. looked ok from a distance but he should have washed the car before he painted it!;)

Not naming any names but farout Outlaw..you could have done a better prep job!

Camo

[Rayngie]

o.k...i'll draw the line, i will not go near the Discovery with a paint brush..:o

[isuzurover]

Mudmouse has basically covered the gear you need. But the type of paint is an important issue - main choices are:

Enamel - relatively easy to paint, comes up shiny straight off the gun, only need 2 coats and no clear - biggest ddownside is it is as soft as cheese for the first few weeks, unless you bake it or use hardener. Also the least toxic!

Acrylic - slightly more difficult to paint - dries as quickly as you can get it out of the gun, usually needs a buff and polish to get it shiny, and usually needs a clear coat over the top. Also usually need a fair few coats.

2-pack/polyurethane - all the benefits of acrylic (shiny straight from the gun, only 1-2 coats needed), plus it is HARDER AND MORE DURABLE THAN POWDERCOATING. Only downside is it is very toxic (isocyanate based). If you are going to use this - make sure you wear a VERY GOOD respirator.

[sclarke]

You can do it in your drive, but preperation is the key to the final finish.
it will take you about 100-200 hours to do it spot on if you remove all the fittings and windows and handles ect.
You need to have it off the road for about 2 weeks to do it spot on.
if not it will look crap and then you will pay double to have it fixed....

[isuzurover]

You can do it in your drive, but preperation is the key to the final finish.
it will take you about 100-200 hours to do it spot on if you remove all the fittings and windows and handles ect.
You need to have it off the road for about 2 weeks to do it spot on.
if not it will look crap and then you will pay double to have it fixed....

I disagree - Assuming the car has no dents (no bog needed), and it doesn't need to go back to bare metal - then usually it is only 1 day to remove parts, 1 day rubbing back the old paint, 1/2 a day to mask, 1/2 a day to paint, and 1 day to reassemble. 4 days or 24 hours. I have done a lot much quicker too, and they have come out looking fine.

Besides, we are talking about a 4x4 here aren't we? Something that needs to have the paint stay on until the next tree branch.

[mudmouse]

Besides, we are talking about a 4x4 here aren't we? Something that needs to have the paint stay on until the next tree branch.[/QUOTE]

Yeah:p ...and you could always put a full length roof rack on it and - ta-da! problem solved... :p

[Rayngie]

well it's got no dents,only scratches and fading paint, so it's the quick solution i'm looking for.

sand down,mask up,paint, that sort of quickness...

[sclarke]

I disagree - Assuming the car has no dents (no bog needed), and it doesn't need to go back to bare metal - then usually it is only 1 day to remove parts, 1 day rubbing back the old paint, 1/2 a day to mask, 1/2 a day to paint, and 1 day to reassemble. 4 days or 24 hours. I have done a lot much quicker too, and they have come out looking fine.

Besides, we are talking about a 4x4 here aren't we? Something that needs to have the paint stay on until the next tree branch.

OK, well i'm talking from Experiance and not a Web Wheeling point of View.
I have worked in the Panel beating Trade for over 4 years at one time in my life and i have resprayed and Restored over 10 of my own cars in the past 20 years. I can tell you now, 24 hours will get you a very average paint job that starts to flake on the edges and will not look good in the long run.
You need to spend time to ensure the panels are rubbed 100% and all edges are rubbed properly. Masking up is the most critical part as any over spray will make any paint job look crap. There is nothing worse than over spray on rubbers and trim.
If only the Roof and bonnet is bad, then consider paying someone to paint them for you and match the existing paint.

[JDNSW]

I painted the 2a with enamel several years ago. Spray gun cost me $20 at a clearing sale, compressor cost $15 at another one.

I had never spray painted anything before, let alone a car. Quite happy with the results, although more effort in preparation would have given better results, and it would also have been better if the temperature had dropped below 40 while I was painting it, and I could have done without the dust storms. By far the biggest expense was replacing rubber bits - seals, grommets, blanking plugs etc. I disassembled the body completely to do the painting.

John

[Debacle]

Have only done a little bit of spraypainting over the years but the advice i can give is take your time, dont expect to do it in 2 coats, pros can, amateurs cant. Start with a couple of dry dust coats with rubbing in between to build up something for those final wet coats to bind to or it will run. Not a bad idea to get some scrap to practice on first.

[isuzurover]

OK, well i'm talking from Experiance and not a Web Wheeling point of View.
I have worked in the Panel beating Trade for over 4 years at one time in my life and i have resprayed and Restored over 10 of my own cars in the past 20 years. I can tell you now, 24 hours will get you a very average paint job that starts to flake on the edges and will not look good in the long run.
You need to spend time to ensure the panels are rubbed 100% and all edges are rubbed properly. Masking up is the most critical part as any over spray will make any paint job look crap. There is nothing worse than over spray on rubbers and trim.
If only the Roof and bonnet is bad, then consider paying someone to paint them for you and match the existing paint.

I am suprised a "real" panel beater would come out and say this. I have completely resprayed 5 cars myself, and have worked with/for a number of panel beaters and spray painters when I was younger. No "Web Wheeling point of view" here.

Your numbers just don't add up. The average panel shop these days charges at least $50/hr for labour. In your previous post you were talking about 200 hours!!! That is $10k in labour for a basic respray!!! Now if we were talking a show car here then that might sound reasonable - but we aren't...

I do agree that preparing the existing surface before painting is the key to a good job, but it isn't rocket science and it doesn't take 200 hours on a car with no dents or rust that doesn't need to go to bare metal.

Here are a couple of threads wiith some good info on paint systems and prep work if you dig through the other stuff.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php't=37798
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php't=98728
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php't=65638