Front door windows

[Ace]

Hi all, i am having issues with my front windows, the motors and switches still work but on the drivers side when you hit the button to put them down the glass tilts forwards and jams, in order to get it to go down you need to bring it back level and then it goes down, it happens within the first inch of it going down then once its straight no worries at all, it also goes up fine. On the passenger side about 2in down it makes a loud clunk noise as if its catching on something inside the door and it suddenly frees itself, it doesnt do it all the time, only some times and it goes down the rest of the way ok, and also goes up fine.

I just wanted to ask if anyone else has had the same problem before i rip the door off and find i need parts or something. Matt.

[ladas]

I would guess that either the little nylon runners are beginning to give up

There is a cheap fix for that - one of the chaps did a post on it - in quite high quality detail.

Or some of the spot welds have popped

Or a combination of both of the above.

Ladas

[Gillie]

Sounds like the nylon runners in the regulator. These are famous for breaking and the syptoms you get is what you descibe. I replaced one not too long ago in a Disco TD5. Of course you cannot buy just the nylon bush you have to buy the whole regulator. I was going to make my own out of brass but ended up finding some new cheap regulators on ebay. Landrover Mob in Tassie had a heap of them he was selling quite cheap. They are different Left to right but believe that the TDI or the TD5 have the same regulator. I bought mine off EBay for about $130 including postage. I am sure someone can let you know who the Landrover mob are in Tassie. Something like Jag and rover spares or Brit parts I think they call themselves? Allow two hours to fit if beer is involved. :D

[ladas]

Sounds like the nylon runners in the regulator. These are famous for breaking and the syptoms you get is what you descibe. I replaced one not too long ago in a Disco TD5. Of course you cannot buy just the nylon bush you have to buy the whole regulator. I was going to make my own out of brass but ended up finding some new cheap regulators on ebay. Landrover Mob in Tassie had a heap of them he was selling quite cheap. They are different Left to right but believe that the TDI or the TD5 have the same regulator. I bought mine off EBay for about $130 including postage. I am sure someone can let you know who the Landrover mob are in Tassie. Something like Jag and rover spares or Brit parts I think they call themselves? Allow two hours to fit if beer is involved. :D

If you do a search you will find that another chap found that a 'modified' sliding door runner rollers (about $4.00 from Bunnings/Mitre 10) and it worked perfectly - I'll see if I can find the original post.

[Gillie]

Not sure if the pic works but this is what the Reg looks like . This one is aftermarket and the nylon rollers in this model are actually square. I did pay $118. + $13 shipping. I did see the post for the cabinet rollers for $4. Better than paying $226.05 ex GST from Land rover! I have seen aftermarket kits advertised in English Mags just for Aliminimum rollers but none here in Aus. I actually have the old one from the TD5 which you could have if you wanted. There would be some spare rollers which would still be good. PM me if interested.

[ladas]

Have a look at

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=32660

[PhilipA]

If it is the square slide type, it looks very much like the slides in my BMW coupe. The ones in the E36 coupe attach to the arms by knuckles (on the arms) held into the slides by spring clips. They are only a few dollars from Pelican Spares in the USA.
If the motors are Bosch then maybe they got em from the same vendor.
Regards Philip A

[Disco300Tdi]

Rolltrak #4361 is a replacement sliding shower door wheel

My Rolltrak catalogue reads $1.94 wholesale and $3.88 each incl GST

All the Bunnings stores stock this part

[JohnE]

Sounds a lot like one of the welds has gone and the whole thing is tilting forward, mine did it on both sides, tryd rewelding but unless you get them spot on, the motor will reek havoc with it.
the quick fix with the bunnings rollers works on the back window, as it doesn't have the scissor lift, i tried the same after reweld. had to open the channel up, grind down the rollers,(they didn't like it) the nylon comes off.
Bit the bullet and bought a new mechanism(for both sides) and haven't looked back, the rollers are the square block type, and only cost $125 from brit offroad( just checked the invoice) plus postage.
well worth it.



john

[Ace]

Have a look at

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread.php't=32660

Thanks Ladas, are the windows in that tutorial the front or back?

Thanks also to the rest of you, i might go down and get some of those and give it a crack before i for out the big dollars. Matt

[ladas]

Thanks Ladas, are the windows in that tutorial the front or back?

Thanks also to the rest of you, i might go down and get some of those and give it a crack before i for out the big dollars. Matt

Matt they are the same runners on both the front and the rear runners.

I have, after seeing this post, and had one runner fail - changed all mine to the $4 jobbies - some months ago. and they are great.

[JohnE]

Not wishing to put water on your fire,
but has anyone actually put those rollers on a front track, ( a fix with photos)
the how to fix was for the rear one,
unless i am a complete knuckle, ( you don;'t have to agree) I couldn't get it to work on the front one, the bolt that attaches the roller, sticks out too much, even after grinding it back it jams in the scissor lift,


ladas did you take photos, if yours was a front repair, and the dimensions of the roller when you made it fit.


john