View Full Version : Where can I get a Freelander nudge bar?
rlysnar
9th July 2007, 11:08 AM
Hi all
I've a facelift Freelander TD4. I understand that the factory nudge bar for the first Freelanders won't fit the face lift model (with the new grouped lights). I've tried the usual 4WD outlets but no joy. Anyone able to give me a pointer?
As a matter of interest I 've just fitted a set of 225/75 15" Mickey Thompson ATs. Anyone had any experience with them?
Regards
Richard
101RRS
9th July 2007, 05:46 PM
Genuine items only (in Aust at least) - there are two types - the traditional pipe nudge bar in chrome or painted black or a moulded plastic? one that is moulded to the shape of the front of the car.
The pipe ones come up on ebay regularly but I have never seen a moulded one for sale.
Garry
beforethevision
10th July 2007, 09:07 AM
Gary, there are a few about. There is a place in bris i cant remember the name of, but they do all the soft roaders, including freelanders. They are right next to ARB and get probably double the business lol. PM me and ill try to find the name,
101RRS
10th July 2007, 12:21 PM
Gary, there are a few about. There is a place in bris i cant remember the name of, but they do all the soft roaders, including freelanders. They are right next to ARB and get probably double the business lol. PM me and ill try to find the name,
Well there u go - u always learn something new - Richard has the last of the Frellander 1s (version 3) - do they have after market versions for this last model - I know Landrover make a genuine one that moulds to the body.
beforethevision
10th July 2007, 07:40 PM
Im pretty sure they make em,
http://www.equipeautomotive.net.au/ is the guys. Give em a call...
However the best protection still involves a 6mm alloy sump guard.
Cheers!!
grasshopper
10th July 2007, 08:34 PM
I know this might be a bit late ....but I'm sure I saw a Freelander nudge bar (plastic) for sale at All 4x4 Spares (Newcastle) today.
Regards
Grasshopper
rlysnar
11th July 2007, 02:38 PM
Thanks guys, will chase up all the options noted. Are the plastic ones plastic coated steel, or just plastic coated plastic?
I heard somewhere the steel A bars made for the Ferelander 1 didn't fit the facelift model because it stuffed up the airbag sensors?
Regards
Richard
101RRS
11th July 2007, 06:38 PM
Thanks guys, will chase up all the options noted. Are the plastic ones plastic coated steel, or just plastic coated plastic?
I heard somewhere the steel A bars made for the Ferelander 1 didn't fit the facelift model because it stuffed up the airbag sensors?
Regards
Richard
Freelanders had airbags from the start so I wouldn't have thought it was an issue. My genuine pipe nudge bar is airbag compatible.
Garry
beforethevision
12th July 2007, 07:47 AM
As a matter of interest I 've just fitted a set of 225/75 15" Mickey Thompson ATs. Anyone had any experience with them?
Nice Choice of tyres BTW, when are you next up for a club run? It appears from last time that I am the only one who offroads a freelander :P
101RRS
12th July 2007, 01:11 PM
It appears from last time that I am the only one who offroads a freelander :P
Not quite - I have been all through the Brindabella mountains and further to the west but I tend to go by myself so I am more careful than I was with my disco where I go. If I go down a hill, I need to be reasured that without low range I would be able to get back up.
I am running 225/70 16" BFG ATs which seem to work OK - a bit like mild muddies on larger landies. I have noticed that since changing to these tyres the traction control or the ABS rarely kicks in when offroad so they must be doing something.
I would like to do some more adventurous offroading but I would prefer to have a "sponsor" to help out if required. I do need to build my bash plate (have the frame off to do it), build some rock sliders that don't reduce clearance and do a lift.
Oh I also believe that dual range could be put into a freelander. The ideas are forming and involve cutting out the front diff and associated housing from the IRD leaving just the bits that take the drive to the rear, replacing the viscous coupling with a Lada transfer case and putting in a rear diff in the front - I have the bits except the transfer case.
Yes I know I have too much time on my hands.
Gazzz
beforethevision
12th July 2007, 04:50 PM
Gary dont let the two of us have a few weeks alone in a shed.... :P
hahahahahahahaha
Yes, if i knew where to get much longer mcpherson struts, id have new A arms, CVs, and low range.... :P hahahaha your on the money i rekon!
If you want to see a bash plate and sliders, you gotta check mine. 6mm alloy sump plate thats huuuge and very heavy steel slider/steps.
lets see if i got some pics....
Bash plate
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/4713/dsc00431cc7.jpg
The side steps mid production. There is more bracing on them now. 50x50x4mm steel. I got pics of them fitted but the internet is screwing me atm
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/6857/dsc00397xg2.jpg
EDIT: I have also fitted a VC slider, so there is nothing i can get stuck on that will damage the car seriously now :P
I am running 215/75R15 BFG AT's, but am looking to invest in a set of Simex ETs in 29/7.5R15 , after the second lift of course :P
101RRS
12th July 2007, 06:25 PM
Kool - looks like you built the sliders after the horse has bolted though - nasty dint.
Six mm plate - do you think you need it that thick? Expensive, there must be $300 in aluminium in that plate.
Garry
beforethevision
12th July 2007, 07:05 PM
I payed a visit to a scrap metal yard, as it doesnt need to be clean and scratch free. I picked up a sheet of 1000x1400x6mm for 115$. I still have some of it spare! hahah High tensile bolts replacing the two that go into the K frame and the 10 stainless bolts joining the plates were about 20$.
The plate definately holds. After last weekends run with the brisbane and GC crew, i have confirmed that i can leave the ground and land on a rock, plate first, safely.
rlysnar
13th July 2007, 01:00 PM
Happy to catch up with anyone for an offroad run particularly if it's in the lower SE corner of Qld up to or just over the NSW border. This is my second Freelander (first was a V6 petrol) and did a fair few miles in it in the sand tracks in the forests north of Noosa and on Teewah Beach. Also took it to Sandown National Park last year to do the tracks to the old metal mines in the area. Rough tracks but at least I didn't get grounded. Have yet to give the new one (TD4) a workout apart from farm tracks. I hear there's a bush track in the Malington National Park that takes you up the western side to Or'Reillys. Sounds interesting. Anyone done it?
Richard
rlysnar
13th July 2007, 01:01 PM
That last post should have read Lamington National Park!
R
beforethevision
13th July 2007, 08:04 PM
Ahh yep, duck ck rd as far as i can remember, ill let you know, but a friend and i perhaps are looking at doing that track very soon. As soon as school kids get out of the way.
Snapper
17th July 2007, 11:35 AM
Kool - looks like you built the sliders after the horse has bolted though - nasty dint.
Six mm plate - do you think you need it that thick? Expensive, there must be $300 in aluminium in that plate.
Garry
How thick should a bash plate be in aluminium?
101RRS
17th July 2007, 12:37 PM
Hi - I don't know that is why I was seeking clarification as I have previously priced aluminium sheet and was horrified at the cost. In other forums the general concensus was about 4mm but I would be more interested in the experiences of those with something fitted. My old subaru has a 3mm steel plate but that was much smaller and was moulded so had inbuilt strength wheras the one for a freelander is nearly a mtr wide and nearly a mtr long, flat with only one spot to provide some sort of support other than the sides.
6mm clearly works but would 4mm work as good?
Garry
Snapper
17th July 2007, 12:53 PM
Thanks Garry.
I can get my hands on some 3mm aluminium sheets for a very fair price. This may be too thin for a skid plate.
101RRS
17th July 2007, 06:59 PM
Thanks Garry.
I can get my hands on some 3mm aluminium sheets for a very fair price. This may be too thin for a skid plate.
I would think that was too thin without some sort of reinforcing.
beforethevision
18th July 2007, 09:48 AM
Hmm, yeha. I figured i did not want to use the sump as reinforcing :P
IMHO 6mm from a scrap yard is dirt cheap and well worth while. Its not that heavy. If you wanted 4mm, perhaps some ribs or triangulation of mounts may help alot.
I can land on a rock and barely mark the 6mm, welded to the alloy frame. Plus on a FL its good for where i have had to grind out some sections to stop contact with engine and exhaust parts.
DirtyDawg
23rd July 2007, 05:58 AM
Why bother with all the conversions , maybe the chassis (if it has one) is not built for the rigours of off roading just Soft roading,....
beforethevision
23rd July 2007, 08:27 AM
Its just holding me off untill i get a chance to start on my fully independent suspension sII........ hahahahahha i got a while/and cash to wait
In regards to chassis strength, they are meant to hold up very well, due to the monocoque. Unlke a defender (so ive heard) it CAN support its weight fully on its roof, and drives like a car.
I know its not a hardcore offroad machine, it wont go through deep water, it doesnt have low range, but for the 10 days a year id just prefer not to sit in a defender. yet... :D
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