How to extend Drawbar tube on Army W/shop trailer

[Tank]

Has anyone extended the tubular drawbar on an army trailer, mine is a '66 W/shop trailer and I was thinking of extending it, any ideas on how long is ideal and how to do it would be appreciated, Regards Frank.

[Red October]

I too have a workshop trailer (64). I'm curious as to why you would want to extend the draw bar as I reckon the Army Engineers would have put a lot of effort into getting the length right.
I think the best way would be to get some steel tube with the outside diameter the same as the inside diameter as the draw bar and some more the same size as the draw bar. The larger tube would be cut to length you wish to extend the draw bar to and the smaller tube would go inside the extension piece and extend in both directions inside the cut sections of the draw bar and then suitably (professionally) welded. I'd still get a professional opinion on this method for all the usual reasons- safety, insurance etc.
Do you still use the Pintle hook as there is a company in Brisvegas that makes a fully articulating hitch (similar to a treg) which eliminates all the NOISE.

[incisor]

which eliminates all the NOISE.
mine isnt noisy at all with a load in it.. :P

[Blknight.aus]

umm why would you want to when towed behind a 110 its perfect.


but thats IMHO.

[scrambler]

There was another essentially identical thread a month or so ago. Basically there were three opinions - 1) don't 2) trailer to rear wheel should = wheelbase of car and 3) as long as possible.

I'm sticking with (1). It's a pain when reversing but otherwise keeps the trailer tucked in nicely, not too much bouncing and I've never been a fan of loading up the drawbar excessively. You do need to watch the balance of your load, though, so watch where you mount your tent.

There is something to be said for (3) (and (2)) if, and only if, you use the trailer exclusively on-road. Off-road the shorter drawbar gives more manouverability.

IMHO :angel:

[incisor]

Morris's extended drawbar and trailer

1450mm from flange to front crossmember. sleeved with staem pipe, and definetly looks the goods!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/08/377.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/08/378.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/08/379.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/08/380.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/08/381.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/08/382.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/08/383.jpg

[Red October]

I agree about the trailer's manners when towed behind a 110, but the noise I was referring to from the pintle hook was a lot more noticeable when towed by my 63 Shorty. Admittedly I have since removed quite a few leaves from the spring pack (each pack is rated at approx 2500kg) and the suspension actually moves now so therefore the ride is smoother.

[Tank]

I'm sorry I didn't get to reply and thank you all till now, I had given up when I didn't get a reply over a few weeks.
I did have another post on this subject elsewhere.
I am actually going to remove the W/Shop body and sell it. I am going to build a Camper trailer to tow behind my Disco and it will be going everywhere the Disco goes and I know how good they tow off-road, the camper body and toolbox setup I was going to use would need some more room between the back of the Disco and the toolbox. Replies I've had at the other post (thanks Maurice and others) and those here have convinced me to leave the drawbar alone and build sliding draws underneath the camper body (but on top of the chassis), I will also be building fuel and water tanks front & rear of the axle, any ideas on tank positions would also be appreciated. I will also be buying a Poly-Block and shaft (I already have the half of the Treg Hitch that bolts to the tow bar tounge) from the Treg factory, the heavy duty one is the same diameter shaft as the Pintle ring shaft, so it will fit the original W/Shop housing. I am looking at 1/2 a tonne all up and was wondering how many leaves to take out of the spring pack for a better ride at this weight, Thanks in advance, Regards Frank.

[Red October]

It's a bit hard to judge how many leaves to remove on till you know what the final weight will be. I used a bit of judgment and removed alternate leaves which didn't affect the ride height too much but improved the suspension travel considerably. The dampers now actually work and the rig tows and handles well. I can post a picture of the finished pack if you're interested.

You may have trouble getting the 500kg gross mass though. I had mine weighed, without the canvas and frame and it weighed 370kg so the chassis isn't particularly light, especially when you consider that the bodywork is based on the remains of a LWB tub and therefore made of Birmabright.

[Tank]

It's a bit hard to judge how many leaves to remove on till you know what the final weight will be. I used a bit of judgment and removed alternate leaves which didn't affect the ride height too much but improved the suspension travel considerably. The dampers now actually work and the rig tows and handles well. I can post a picture of the finished pack if you're interested.

You may have trouble getting the 500kg gross mass though. I had mine weighed, without the canvas and frame and it weighed 370kg so the chassis isn't particularly light, especially when you consider that the bodywork is based on the remains of a LWB tub and therefore made of Birmabright.
petemci, I would appreciate some pics of your spring packs, I weighed mine and it weighed 390kgs with canvas and hoops, I will be buiding the camper out of aluminium, the tools, recovery gear, water and fuel will be the heaviest and I will do my best to keep it light, BTW what is Birmabright, Regards Frank.

[UncleHo]

G'day Tank :)

Birmabright:) is/was Rover Car Coy's name for Aluminium, all that stuff they had leftover from building Lancaster Bombers, Solihull was a shadow Lancaster Factory;) the name Birmabright was first used by them in 1948, at the Amsterdam motor show release.

cheers

[Lotz-A-Landies]

G'day Tank :)

Birmabright:) is/was Rover Car Coy's name for Aluminium, all that stuff they had leftover from building Lancaster Bombers, Solihull was a shadow Lancaster Factory;) the name Birmabright was first used by them in 1948, at the Amsterdam motor show release.

cheers

The Land Rover Factory in Lode Lane was actually the Gloucester Meteor jet fighter factory and the experience of the Rover Co. engineers with the Whittle jet engine was the reason that Rover trialled jet engined prototype Rover cars after the war.

Birmabright is actually an aluminium alloy which contains a small amount of magnesium which makes a panel stronger and more resistant to dents etc. Ideal for aircraft fuselage travelling at hundreds of miles an hour.

The current Defenders etc no longer use Birmabright :angrylock: are instead made out of plain aluminium and hence the need to fix chequerplate panels everywhere, :( which was not needed on Birmabright clad series Land Rovers.

Diana :)