TD5 Clutch Master

[CapeLandy]

Hi All

My mated TD5 defender has just expired on the warenty which now means we have to tackle all the upcomming faults.

Needless to say, 1 week after this there is a fluid drip onto his clutch foot.

When I did my Ser III I ended up removing the whole clutch bracket with pedal and master in one go to acess the nuts on the master cylinder flange.

Does the Def 110 have to have the whole contraption removed or can one loosen off the master cylinder itself in situ?

Is the master cylinder mild steel and does it normally fail due to corrosion in the bore or is it just the seals leaking after 80K?

Some advice would be apretiated.

p.s On my ser III I sleeved her in stainless and never had another leak on the master. Slave cylinder is another storey though.

Cheers
James

[weeds]

yep whole assembly needs to come out

you can get them pretty cheap from trailer places

i brought a non gen one from a landy repairer $60-$70 i think

i did have apiece of paper with the clutch height measurement but cannot lay my hands on it

[CapeLandy]

And do the carpets come off easily to access the nuts under the clutch bracket?
Thanks
James

[weeds]

And do the carpets come off easily to access the nuts under the clutch bracket?
Thanks
James

do defenders have carpets

there is some rubber sound proofing, all comes off pretty easy, from memory you have to unscrew some screws to remove part of the under dash

some guys have resleeved, i didn't cause i needed the rig same day

[Bushie]

I had mine resleeved - cost around $80, you can buy a trailer master cylinder the same at super cheap for around $45.

However I think theres a lesson to be learned - there seem to be a lot of master cylinder failures at what seems to be a short life span, maybe they are cheap for a reason.

Removal and replacement doesn't take that long (just remember to remove the pedal rubber) from memory the pedal should be set at 142mm from the floor with the stop bolt on the back of the pedal box and there should be 1.5mm of free travel on the m/cyl push rod.

Td5/tdi same same when it comes to master cylinder


Martyn

[JDNSW]

........

Td5/tdi same same when it comes to master cylinder


Martyn

I think they are the same back to all 110/90/130, and probably right back to Series 3.

The reason for the large number of reported failures is unclear. There is no rocket science involved in making these cylinders or indeed the rubber components, so there is no obvious reason why cheap ones should not be almost as long lived as expensive ones. The fact that stainless steel sleeving seems to remove the problem suggests that the problem is corrosion of the aluminium bore. This may reflect poor quality anodising of the bore (the anodising is why they can't be rebored or honed unless sleeved), but brake fluid is not corrosive to aluminium unless it has water in it. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so should be changed fairly frequently, particularly in a coastal climate. Brake systems are less affected, as the fluid gets a lot hotter.

John

[rick130]

it appears to be sub standard seals to me.
When I stripped my original Girling (Lucas) one the bore was fine. I just bought a PBR 3/4" one as it was cheaper than a seal kit.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

If the car is only just out of warranty I'd be taking it back to the dealer and asking them nicely. The may well do it for free or at least be heavily sponsored by LR.

This is just a thought as you might as well get them to do it if you can. I'm sure there will be other opportunities to fix this fault in the future. :o

[CapeLandy]

Thanks guys.

[MW.TD5 Defender]

I replaced mine with a LR spares after market one less than 12 months /20,000k's ago and it looks like it is starting to leak again. Lucky they are pretty cheap.

Mal

[Bushie]

it appears to be sub standard seals to me.
When I stripped my original Girling (Lucas) one the bore was fine. I just bought a PBR 3/4" one as it was cheaper than a seal kit.

Would tend to agree, the one I got to resleeve was out of a Td5, what was left of the seals was very soft, almost spongy.

The one I replaced was 10 years old - original seals but regular fluid changes. It appeared to be worn by the piston running skewed in the bore wearing one side more than the other, combined with a bit of wear on the seals - leak.

Personally cost isn't the issue even at $45 a time it's a job that shouldn't need to be done that frequently, its an inconvenience thing.

At least it didn't totally fail.

The seal kits I bought were $12 ea.



Martyn