Series idle problem

[Defender=1st]

hey everyone my series 3 ,2.25lt petrol wont idle ? on the driveway as soon as you take your foot of the accelerator it just starts getting slower and slower and almost stalls if you dont put your foot back on the accelerator it would. any ideas ??
Thanks
Regards Adrian

[LR V8]

Adrian,

I'm not a mechanic... but this is what I'd check 1st:


does the idler screw need adjusting ? does screwing it in/out make any difference ?

Is the fuel filter full of gunk ? when was the last time it was changed ?

Is the choke stuck on ? It's butterfly valve in the carby should be open (vertical) when off.


Hope that can help, and my apologies if you've already checked this stuff.

Pete

[Defender=1st]

Adrian,

I'm not a mechanic... but this is what I'd check 1st:


does the idler screw need adjusting ? does screwing it in/out make any difference ?

Is the fuel filter full of gunk ? when was the last time it was changed ?

Is the choke stuck on ? It's butterfly valve in the carby should be open (vertical) when off.


Hope that can help, and my apologies if you've already checked this stuff.

Pete

Thanks Pete iam no mechanic either so any help is really appreciated. ill check these things
Regards Adrian

[JDNSW]

All of the above. But if you are not familiar with carburetter engines with no engine management computer, the tendency to stop if left idling may be fairly normal. While in theory these engines will idle indefinitely (although not a very good idea) it is quite common for them not to do so. Unless the engine is thoroughly warm it will need exactly the right choke setting to keep running - and this will no longer be the right setting as it warms up a bit more! Also, if the thermostat is not working properly it will never warm up or stay warm when idling, and you will never get a stable idle.

Anything less than optimal in the ignition (points, condenser, timing, coil, ignition leads) or in the carburetion (choked filter, air leak in pump suction line, dirty carburetter, worn needle valve, worn throttle spindle, air leaks in manifold or PCV or vacuum system) will prevent a stable idle as well, as will varying compression due to sticky valves, poor valve seats etc.

John

[olmate]

All of the above. Anything less than optimal in the ignition (points, condenser, timing, coil, ignition leads) or in the carburetion (choked filter, air leak in pump suction line, dirty carburetter, worn needle valve, worn throttle spindle, air leaks in manifold or PCV or vacuum system) will prevent a stable idle as well, as will varying compression due to sticky valves, poor valve seats etc.

After going thru all this to sort out a rough idle in my 2A, I found that my vacuum advance unit on the side of the dizzy had sh*t itself. Do the easy stuff first: check air leaks, points, condenser, timing / leads etc... then look at the carby and further.;)

[vnx205]

Does it have the original Zenith carby?
The big O-ring where the top of the carby seals onto the throat MUST be in good condition and carefully tightened or you will have no end of trouble with idle.