PDA

View Full Version : Abs Light On - D1



wozzlegummich
26th July 2007, 07:26 AM
Hi All,

My '95 D1 ABS lamp is on all the time.:( It started by coming on intermittently but I could get it to go off by restarting the motor. Now it's on constantly.

Questions:
Can the diagnostic codes be read without a factory reader? (I.E. by a flashing ABS lamp)
If so, where is the diagnostic connector?
How does one put it into the diagnostic mode to read the codes?
Has anyone got a list of the codes I could have?Thanks in advance for any help.

Robbie

JohnE
26th July 2007, 08:43 AM
Welcome to the world of , ' my D1 abs light is on'
it sounds a lot better than the D2 owners prob, the 3 amigos are lit up!
a much talked about subject.
The answers and fixes vary from person to person.
For a multitude of posts and answers, go to search thats the 5th box from the right on the top and type in whatever the prob is, you'll get the previous post answers. ' ABS lights' is a good starting point then work out the applicable D1 posts.
Some sugested fixes leave you that perplexed, you wonder why you have a discovery.
If you don't have a rave manual now is a good time to get one.

Having said all that, and based on my own experiences with mine.

The connector for the diagnostic is on the panel below the dash above your left shin when driving. I had mine checked by a L/R place, but it only came up with air gap on front sensors.

Codes on a D1, I don;t think they are flashing light indicated, the light comes on to show a fault only.( ie won't set the abs)

The codes come up on a diagnostic plug in check.

From my own experience, the wheel sensor leads ( on the D1) are usually the root of the problem, check the connections with a multimeter, thats how I found my problem. Front o/s sensor lead, damaged. An intermitttent fault that you had, sounds exactly the same as mine.

Rather than rehash all the previous posts, your search will come up with code descriptions and other possible causes.


good luck and have fun


john

chunk
26th July 2007, 06:56 PM
Does the ABS pump continue to run after the ignition is turned off.

DiscoDave
26th July 2007, 10:36 PM
Sorry I can't be of specific help but I assume you've had a good look at the ABS sensor cables going to the brake calipers? My ABS warning light came on a few weeks ago (for the first time in nine years) and refused to go off. A brief inspection under the vehicle showed a (very tough) cable chewed in half! Fixed that and the light has gone. If yours was coming on intermittently beforehand I'd suggest opening and cleaning the connectors in the ABS cables as there may be a corrosion problem.

JohnE
27th July 2007, 07:22 AM
OOps forgot to mention
as Dave mentioned his lead was in two,
when you check them with a multimeter, have a friend help, and get them to jiggle the leads back and forth, as the break(if there is one) in the wire will sometimes only be apparent when you do this, ( mine at first was ok, until I moved them about, )



john

markyc
27th July 2007, 12:10 PM
I had the same problem which gradually worsened until I almost rear-ended a Merc when the ABS pump went nuts and the brakes barely worked..
Now all relevant fuses and the warning light from the dash have gone, and guess what? He pulls up just fine!

wozzlegummich
28th July 2007, 07:53 AM
After spending hours Google-ing I was able to get a code out of the ABS using only a paper clip. This proves you do not need a special reader or need to pay the Dealers exhorbitant prices.

At the moment I am getting a code 2-6 which is the brake pedal position switch. I have checked the switch & it's wiring and it seems all OK. All the instructions I have seen to date mention removing the ABS relay. I believe I am not getting the correct codes until this is removed.

My problem is I can't find the ABS Relay to remove. Does anyone know where the ABS relay is on my RHD '95 D1?

Here is what I have found. Hope it may help someone else.



GETTING THE CODES

Remove the relay for the ABS warning lamp.????
Turn on the ignition, ABS warning lamp should illuminate.
Connect the terminals using a wire link as shown in the diagram below.
Wait 5 seconds, ABS warning light should extinguish, then start code sequence.
Read codes as described in the Code Format Description below CONNECTOR PLUG
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
Found on drivers side (RHD) just above left foot rest.
NB.It is positioned upside down.

CODE FORMAT
• Each code is made up of two series of short flashes.
• The first series indicates the Major code group (from 1 to 6).
• The second series indicates the Minor code group (from 1 to 15)
• A long pause separates each repetition.
• A shorter pause separates the Major and Minor groups.
• Code sequence begins with a 2 short flashes (code 11).
• Code Format Diagram shows code No. 32.

CODES


Code 2-6 - Faulty stoplight switch or wiring. Fuse A5 blown or not fitted
Code 2-7 - Continuous supply to ECU with ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring
Code 2-8 - No voltage to ABS solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Code 2-12 - Front right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-13 - Rear left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-14 - Front left, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 2-15 - Rear right, too large an air gap or the sensor has been forced out by exciter ring.
Code 3-0 to 3-9 - Open circuit in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU
Code 4-0 to 4-9 - Short circuit to earth in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster
Code 4-12 - Front right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-13 - Rear left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-14 - Front left, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 4-15 - Rear right, wiring to sensor broken or sensor resistance too high.
Code 5-0 to 5-9 - Short circuit to 12volt in connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, possible earth fault.
Code 5-12 - Front right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-13 - Rear left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-14 - Front left, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 5-15 - Rear right, intermittent fault with sensor or wiring
Code 6-0 to 6-9 - Short circuit between two connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
Code 6-12 - Front right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-13 - Rear left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-14 - Front left, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.
Code 6-15 - Rear right, no output from sensor, sensor may have too large an air gap.

ladas
28th July 2007, 08:53 AM
This may help

Ladas

wozzlegummich
28th July 2007, 09:00 AM
This is why these forums are so great.

This should sort the beastie out!!

Thanks again,

Wozz L. Gummich

wozzlegummich
30th July 2007, 03:59 PM
OK, I found and removed the relay. (Was in RAVE all the time - Doh!!!)

Still getting a code 2-6. Checked the switch (both sets of contacts) and wiring all the way back to the ECU. All OK.

Could it be the ECU???

Cheers,

Wozz L. Gummich

wozzlegummich
30th July 2007, 04:01 PM
Does the ABS pump continue to run after the ignition is turned off.

NO.

JohnE
30th July 2007, 07:12 PM
Well, we learn something new everyday,

I initially thought the stop light switch was the culprit and replaces it, it was fine.

Have you checked the leads coming from each wheel sensor, rather than rely on the blinking lights.
As I said earlier when mine was placed on the testbook at the repairers, it came up with an airgap fault,
That is a far cry from what the actual problem was , and that was a broken wire.
perhaps yours coud be the same.


john

Sandtoyz
30th July 2007, 09:09 PM
Well, we learn something new everyday,

I initially thought the stop light switch was the culprit and replaces it, it was fine.

Have you checked the leads coming from each wheel sensor, rather than rely on the blinking lights.
As I said earlier when mine was placed on the testbook at the repairers, it came up with an airgap fault,
That is a far cry from what the actual problem was , and that was a broken wire.
perhaps yours coud be the same.


john

I suppose a broken wire does create a small air gap... ;)

greebo
17th August 2007, 05:44 PM
Does anyone know if you can just pull the fuses for a tempory fix until time is available to go into in detail?

and if so which fuses?

chunk
18th August 2007, 08:39 AM
hi greebo, yes you can pull the fuse or relay. I had to pull the ABS pump relay on mine because the pump wouldn't turn off with the ignition. I drove around for a week with no ABS, after being advised by my local mechanic that it was safe to do so.

greebo
27th September 2007, 08:48 AM
Well after looking at the rave cd and users manual there are 3 fuses that refer to antilock braking or antilock brakes. The one in the RAVE cd points to ABS pump.

I'm guessing ABS pump is the one I want to pull but I'm not sure

Anyone out there shed any light on this?

I'd settle for the location of the ABS valve relay as acording to rave I can just pull that.

Andrew

Update I've pulled the ABS VALVE fuse I'd guess that will have the same effect as pulling the relay.

lrams
29th January 2008, 06:37 PM
regarding the mannual reset procedure for the Disco ABS system. My 1995 Disco v8 NZ new has the ABS light on. the connector on mine is a 5 poin jobby, rather than the 16 pin one on this thread. is it possible to to aply the same procedure with different pins. Incidently The haynes wiring manual (1989 to 1998)i have appears to be consistent with the model I have, not the one shown on this thread, Ive checked the relays and the wiring to the sensors. it all looks ok the sensors are each abot 950 to to 1000 ohms at the connectors closest to the wheels. all the fuses are now ok althoug the fuse to the indicators had been blown ,which was presumably caused by my trailer wiring fault. Not sure if this is related tot he abs problem or not. cheers alex