g/box & engine - tips how to seperate

[HangOver]

hi all
I eventually got into the garage today & removed eveything to get my gearbox out of the RR.
I have the hoist in and supporting the weight; it's all loose, (yes I have checked all the bolts are out) but I can't seem to seperate the two. I am a bit reluctant to belt it with something as it's cast ally.

I got the replacemernt out of the other RR with little difficulty.

So.......... any tips or suggestions to part them:confused:

[mcrover]

Most likely just stuck on the dowls. Double check that all the bolts are out and anything that could be holding it together like brakets etc are taken off and then give it a light tap with a soft hammer or a block of wood and it should start to separate.

Sometimes you may need to lever it near the dowels but be gental.

2 mates of mine have 3.5's in boats with soft clutches and they get that everytime they service the clutch.

[lokka]

Make sure the angle is right as this will cause bind at the dowels and its probablt easier to get the engin out first then the box thats if the engin has to come out ive gota get mine out soon and replace the bellhousing and il be pulling the engin out rather than the box :D:D:D

[HangOver]

so whats the right angle?

It's supported by a hoist, the rope is obviously from above and maybe slightly to the left of centre.

Maybe I should move the hoist so it's pulling the box away rather than up?

BTW the engine is staying in

[Bush65]

so whats the right angle?

It's supported by a hoist, the rope is obviously from above and maybe slightly to the left of centre.

Maybe I should move the hoist so it's pulling the box away rather than up?

BTW the engine is staying in
So you have the gearbox slung under a hoist and the engine is staying in.

Is the t/case still attached to the gearbox? If so it adds a fair bit of weight on the right side - so the sling should be offset to the right, not the left. It also affects the fore and aft position of the sling.

You don't say whether you have supported the rear of the engine. I usually tilt the gearbox and engine down at the rear first, and use a jack to support the rear of the engine. The jack allows adjustment of the angle as work progresses.

[ladas]

Sometimes you may need to lever it near the dowels but be gental.

.


So you have to be jewish to do it :D:D;)

[HangOver]

the box it now out :D <-- ooohh look new smiley

I moved the hoist hook slightly behind the gearstick and used a longer arm so it was directly above top center then lowered the gearbox almost back to the original position and pulled the box backwards rather then side to side.

now I just need to do all the jobs on it and put the bloody thing back in. I now understand why garages charge an arm and a leg for this job !

[George130]

the box it now out :D <-- ooohh look new smiley

I moved the hoist hook slightly behind the gearstick and used a longer arm so it was directly above top center then lowered the gearbox almost back to the original position and pulled the box backwards rather then side to side.

now I just need to do all the jobs on it and put the bloody thing back in. I now understand why garages charge an arm and a leg for this job !
Putting it back in is worse:eek:.

[HangOver]

Thanks for that ! :(


Any tips for getting the clutch plate dead-centre when bolting on the pressure plate?

[ladas]

I always use to use a slightly fashioned broom handle.

[rovercare]

Thanks for that ! :(


Any tips for getting the clutch plate dead-centre when bolting on the pressure plate?

Your eyes:eek::eek::eek:

I've got a cluthch aligning tool here and its useless

Unless you get the input shaft from an LT95....That's the best possible aligning tool to use:)

[mcrover]

So you have to be jewish to do it :D:D;)

Too long working at cranbourne golf club, it's owned by a Jewish group.

Nah really I just cant spell Mr Post police :D. I hang around with greens keepers too much they suck the brains right out of you.

[rangieman]

I always use to use a slightly fashioned broom handle.
i also use a socket extension bar with electriical tape around it to centre it in the clutch plate and the far end for the spiggot bearing and just use your eye to make sure its alright:D afterwards:cool:

[mcrover]

i also use a socket extension bar with electriical tape around it to centre it in the clutch plate and the far end for the spiggot bearing and just use your eye to make sure its alright:D afterwards:cool:

Ditto

[100I]

Too long working at cranbourne golf club, it's owned by a Jewish group.

Nah really I just cant spell Mr Post police :D. I hang around with greens keepers too much they suck the brains right out of you.
So you got all the Caddyshack one-liners down pat yet?:p

[Bigbjorn]

Have you got a lathe? Easy to make one. Turn a piece of bar down to a slip fit in the spigot bearing for an inch, then turn some more of it down to a slip fit in the clutch plate. Five minute job.

[mcrover]

So you got all the Caddyshack one-liners down pat yet?:p

Ive been meaning to watch it, I'll get around to it one day:D

[mcrover]

Have you got a lathe? Easy to make one. Turn a piece of bar down to a slip fit in the spigot bearing for an inch, then turn some more of it down to a slip fit in the clutch plate. Five minute job.


Id love a metal lathe, a couple of the guys on the other courses have them and they come in handy but Im a fussy bugger and if Im going to get one it has to be a good one.

I have a cheap pedastool drill that I wont use much because it doesnt drill straight and has no adjustment to fix the slack in the chuck drive.

The 3/8 drive extension works pretty well as you can just wrap the elecy tape around it as you need it and is close enough.

[LoveMyV8County]

i also use a socket extension bar with electriical tape around it to centre it in the clutch plate and the far end for the spiggot bearing and just use your eye to make sure its alright:D afterwards:cool:

Ditto #2