Screachng Park Brake

[stevo68]

G'day All,

have had this happen once before and from memory was quickly fixed. Now has happened again whereby when I go to put electric park break on it makes this earth shuddering noise and comes up with park break fault?? Anyone else had this before? THanks

Regards

Stevo

[drivesafe]

Hi stevo, did you get into the mud runs yesterday, if so a good hose out with the park break off might be the go but other wise, ring the service centre and see what they say.

Cheers

[stevo68]

Hi stevo, did you get into the mud runs yesterday, if so a good hose out with the park break off might be the go but other wise, ring the service centre and see what they say.

Cheers Thanks mate, yep did the mud runs, but it was really mainly big muddy puddles as opposed to mud. Though will give a hose underneath in the morn, plus will be ringing service as it has happened once before, from memory it was pretty easily fixed. I hope so as car goes in Tuesday for rear bar and off to Coffs on Friday, so fingers crossed,

Regards

Stevo

[harry]

yep stevo, you probably have flicked up a bit of gravel or something, shouldn't be to hard to fix.

[Scouse]

Doesn't the handbook mention washing out the handbrake after mud use ?
I'm sure the discs (with handbrake drums) need to be removed rather than just doing it with the handbrake off.

[stevo68]

Doesn't the handbook mention washing out the handbrake after mud use ?
I'm sure the discs (with handbrake drums) need to be removed rather than just doing it with the handbrake off.
__________________
Hmm couldnt say, will check that in the morn as well. Im assuming that to wash it out would be a good hose underneath? Not very cluey as to what is where

Regards

Stevo

[Loaded]

Hmm couldnt say, will check that in the morn as well. Im assuming that to wash it out would be a good hose underneath? Not very cluey as to what is where

Regards

Stevo

Stevo you could try the under body auto wash near Robina Holden. Its a high pressure wash that you slowly drive over and it pressure washes the under body of the car.
Just drive real slow to get the best result.
Its Across the road from Signature Auto and Tyre.

I also have one of those Staun pressure wash poles that you can reach under the Disco and it around corners and nooks and crannys with. It just clips on the end of the garden hose and gives a direct pressure jet. Give me a call tomorrow if you would like to give that a go, I have the day off till 03:30pm.

[stevo68]

Gave it a good hose underneath this morning, still the same, took it to dealer.........it has gone kaputt :mad:, so have to put it in tomorrow, most likely a day job so have to see if I can still wrangle my rear bar in before COB Thursday in prep for trip to Coffs,

Regards

Stevo

[BigJon]

I think there is a section in the owners manual about resetting the park brake. Take a look in there.

[stevo68]

I think there is a section in the owners manual about resetting the park brake. Take a look in there.
Thanks but it appears the whole thing is buggered, at least it is under warranty. Hopefully have it back my Wed morn so it can go off to have rear bar fitted,

Regards

Stevo

[discomaniac]

Hi,
I have had this problem regularly over the last 2 years. Generally it is initially caused by mud/dirt/dust in the pads. Dealer has now fitted pads that don't suffer from this problem, ie. don't get jammed. Been off-roading in mud, sand, water, dirt, dust etc since with no problems at all.

[BigJon]

We have had a few that needed dismantling and cleaning, then reseating. Not covered by warranty.

[stevo68]

We have had a few that needed dismantling and cleaning, then reseating. Not covered by warranty.
This thankfully is as it is not a matter of cleaning, the whole things has crapped itself and they are replacing the brake system, hence why they need my vehicle for at least a day and a half. It did happen once before and I had it back in 1/2 an hr, unfortunately not the case this time.

Regards

Stevo

[stevo68]

We have had a few that needed dismantling and cleaning, then reseating. Not covered by warranty.
okiily dokilies looks like I may stand corrected, not one much for being technical but does the word actuator mean something. Seems big clumps of mud came out and have worn that I think and the brake pads or whatever in there have worn as well. Will know more later today.

Regards

Stevo

[Jonny Fin]

Hi. Realise this thread is somewhat old and can't find anything else on the forum that deals with this. Had this issue after extended beach driving a year ago and my local dealer sorted it out. Didn't quite ask what the issue was at the time but it was covered under the extended warranty.

Just got back from four days of doing the Holland Track in WA which after storms on Thursday and Friday was more mud / water than anything else. EPB started screeching like a drop bear on steroids and basically cracked the proverbial.

I've washed out the brakes as suggested on previous posts and while under the rear of the car saw this wire hanging loosely on the right rear drum which I'm quite sure shouldn't be there.

I'm not mechanically minded (I have other attributes... :twisted:) and would appreciate any advise - I'm rather sick and tired of the local LR dealer smiling from ear to ear when they see me coming.

Thanks in advance.
Cheers.
Jonny

[AnD3rew]

Unfortunately it is a common problem with these cars, washing out is your first step, there are some who have dismantled and repaired, search for threads on the subject but sometimes it is a replacement job.

It is sadly a design fault. Sometimes high tech is not an improvement. If you don't fix it and keep using it, it can freeze shut and then you have to use the manual release, (check the manual for instructions). Mine froze at the QANTAS valet parking and really messed them up :D

Usually happens after very dusty or muddy trips.

[Hatchy]

I had this problem with the D3 and my then mechanic (Knights House of Rover) said it just needed to be recalibrate do. And it worked every time perfect again. So each service I just got them to make sure it was re calibrated, one service they forgot and sure enough came off the beach and started screaming again. Good to hear it was fixed under warranty.

[justinc]

That wire is the brake pad wear sensor, plugs into the inboard brake pad. Looks like the retaining spring clip (very small but important) is either lost or still attached to the brake pad?

Jc

[Jonny Fin]

That wire is the brake pad wear sensor, plugs into the inboard brake pad. Looks like the retaining spring clip (very small but important) is either lost or still attached to the brake pad?

Jc
Thanks JC - had the rear pads replaced last week so back to the dealer we go. :(

[Rich84]

Looks like your dealer might've forgotten to put the sensor back in or lost the clip. The sensor comes with a clip if you replace it, but a new clip is not supplied with the pads, so if you lose it doing the pad change, you're a bit stuck!

The screeching is a very common problem on these cars - most of the time it can be rectified by adjusting the EPB mechanism as per Bodsy's brake bible (disco3.co.uk) - this worked for me, but I discovered the rear brakes were very worn at that point so I replaced them and performed a full strip and clean of the park brake mechanism on each side. It's about an hour per side to do and involves removing the brake disc (which doubles as the park brake drum), inspecting and replacing the lining if required, clean and lubricate everything and re-assemble and adjust.

You're supposed to do this after 50K of arduous off-roading/mudding. Otherwise avoid using the handbrake until you perform the clean.

I would definitely perform all of these steps, and only if still unsuccessful would I look at touching the EPB control unit. I would first remove that from the car to check if it is just binding for whatever reason, and only look at replacing it if there was physical damage to the plastic winders. Plastic winders are a definite weakness, but it still takes many screeching episodes for the unit to be rendered inoperable - mine must've done it 10 times by the time I got around it adjusting the mechanism. I adjusted it and perfect ever since.

The dealers are very quick to replace the whole control unit at $$$, even when the fact that it's usually just the mechanisms needing adjusting that is the actual problem. They have to re-adjust the mechanism when they install the new unit, so the new unit will still fix the problem, but you're spending much more than you have to. An adjustment costs nothing - you just need a good set of tools with torx bits and a torque wrench.

[Jonny Fin]

Looks like your dealer might've forgotten to put the sensor back in or lost the clip. The sensor comes with a clip if you replace it, but a new clip is not supplied with the pads, so if you lose it doing the pad change, you're a bit stuck!

The screeching is a very common problem on these cars - most of the time it can be rectified by adjusting the EPB mechanism as per Bodsy's brake bible (disco3.co.uk) - this worked for me, but I discovered the rear brakes were very worn at that point so I replaced them and performed a full strip and clean of the park brake mechanism on each side. It's about an hour per side to do and involves removing the brake disc (which doubles as the park brake drum), inspecting and replacing the lining if required, clean and lubricate everything and re-assemble and adjust.

You're supposed to do this after 50K of arduous off-roading/mudding. Otherwise avoid using the handbrake until you perform the clean.

I would definitely perform all of these steps, and only if still unsuccessful would I look at touching the EPB control unit. I would first remove that from the car to check if it is just binding for whatever reason, and only look at replacing it if there was physical damage to the plastic winders. Plastic winders are a definite weakness, but it still takes many screeching episodes for the unit to be rendered inoperable - mine must've done it 10 times by the time I got around it adjusting the mechanism. I adjusted it and perfect ever since.

The dealers are very quick to replace the whole control unit at $$$, even when the fact that it's usually just the mechanisms needing adjusting that is the actual problem. They have to re-adjust the mechanism when they install the new unit, so the new unit will still fix the problem, but you're spending much more than you have to. An adjustment costs nothing - you just need a good set of tools with torx bits and a torque wrench.

Thanks Rich - great advise indeed. Turned out it was a brake shoe that come unseated (no idea how that happens but assume it had something to do with the new pad install the week before). Anyhow all sorted for now & covered under their warranty so no cost other than the trip to the garage & back. Will be sure to invest in those tools in time for the next adjustment.

Cheers


'07 D3 SE v6
'13 G650Gs