Yes its another " want to build a camper trailer" post.

[loanrangie]

I just picked up a trailer in need of some tlc like a new floor/ tailgate etc and wondering if i should go the checker plate or smooth floor option ? It will be a general use trailer for carting stuff from the hardware, collecting firewood and later on will purchase a camper tent to bolt on it. Also wondering what a good height for the sides will be ? Will be using D1 steel rims on it as well.

[rangieman]

I would go the smooth floor , If you ever move dirt or tanbark or alike its easier to sweep or shovel out on a smooth floor than a checker plate floor:D

[100I]

I would go the smooth floor , If you ever move dirt or tanbark or alike its easier to sweep or shovel out on a smooth floor than a checker plate floor:D

^^

MUST be able to shovel & sweep

[100I]

and

if you turn it into a camper, the chequer plate will just tear up your tent bags and camp chair bags and chew the ar5e out of your plastic food crates

[LandyAndy]

Smooth inside for sure.
Saw a trailer yesterday with the checkerplate on the outside,looked great.
Andrew

[rrturboD]

I'd agree with the smooth surface inside. I have checkerplate upside down and it has provided the strength without the surface!
As far as height goes, measure a couple of commercial campers, particularly the one which has the canvas you want. Then you can buy 'standard' canvas.

[DiscoStew]

Having had many occassions to crawl to the back of the trailer on my stomach, while the tent is setup, to retrieve the odd box or two, and then drag it out behind me, my vote goes to smooth surface.

[incisor]

must be my fat guts but the chequer plate has never worried me... but if using it for dirt and other stuff smooth floor is wayyyyyy better...

[loanrangie]

I'd agree with the smooth surface inside. I have checkerplate upside down and it has provided the strength without the surface!
As far as height goes, measure a couple of commercial campers, particularly the one which has the canvas you want. Then you can buy 'standard' canvas.

I was thinking of the upside down cp as it gives best of both, most of the tent top manufacturers state a 1 metre minimum height for their tents so i will aim for that and change later if needed.

[Rob Bruce]

Ahhhh, mine goes like this, wheels slightly back of centre, drawbar longer than normal, this makes it back real easy. and stable going forward, landcruiser 60 or 75 series front leaf springs with 1.5 t 45mm axle [ to take a real beating] . high sides, water tank under but not in vulnerable place, room for 3 jerries at front on draw bar then spair wheel, off road coupling, mud guards with side protection a must, canvas tonneau cover fitted. this is a home made one with some help with a friends sheet metal folder, excluding labour and wheels and springs which I had it cost about $400. cheap ay. best of all I have not been able to destroy it yet. Oh nearly forgot the back opens to form a kitchen etc the rest of the space is for gear and tent etc.

Rob

[loanrangie]

Ahhhh, mine goes like this, wheels slightly back of centre, draw bar longer than normal, this makes it back real easy. and stable going forward, landcriser 60 or 75 series front leaf springs with 1.5 t 45mm axel [ to take a real beating] . high sides, water tank under but not in vunrible place, room for 3 jerrys at front on draw bar then spair wheel, off road coupling, mud gards with side protection a must, canvas torno cover fitted. this is a home made one with some help with a frends sheet metal folder, excluding labour and wheels and springs which I had it cost about $400. cheep ay. best of all I have not been able to destroy it yet. Oh nearly forgot the back opens to form a kitchen etc the rest of the space is for gear and tent ect.

Rob

Sounds like what i have in mind, trailer was $147 off ebay, i already have 10 x spare D1 steel rims, the drawbar is already long enough as it has a spare laying flat on it, i have a 45mm axle and hubs that are transit van pattern which is the same as LR, i also have a spare disco spare wheel carrier that i will bolt to drawbar. Just need to get new larger guards ($62pr in CP from trailer place ) and some tube for a tie rail. So i reckon another $200 should have it done minus things like a water tank /kitchen etc. Springs i will wait till its all made and then see how it sits.

[Rob Bruce]

Now you are talking, go for it and do it :BigThumb::BigThumb:

Rob

[loanrangie]

Made a start on the weekend by grinding off the brackets that had been welded on to carry a small cat, i will be extending the height of the sides and though of widening the top as well. Its a 6x4 trailer but i might make it flare out where i add the extra height so that it is 6ft wide, not sure if there is any advantage to this ?
Also broke off the plywood that was used for sides and f/r tailgates so i'm now left with a steel frame of 50mm angle, 37.5mm and 25mm rhs frame to which i will either clad with steel or maybe alloy CP ? floor will be steel though. Tips from those who have been down this rd are appreciated.

[LandyAndy]

Hi Mate
PICS!!!!!
Sounds like a good project,soon as Im not doing firewood I will be starting mine.
Wouldnt worry about mixing alloy CP into it.
Small weight saving for more fixing dramas.
Andrew

[loanrangie]

I only thought of ally cp as the sides are 25mm rhs frames so i thought i could just clad the outside with ally but maybe gal or mild sheet will be easier (and cheaper) but then i will either have exposed framework inside or outside unless i clad both sides ? I will take some pics and start a thread in the projects section on the weekend.

[rar110]

I am looking at building a trailer using a s/wagon rear tub, s/wagon rear doors (without window frame) for access to storage or slide out draws/kitchen, coil axle (without centre) with a-frame and t-arms, rear of 110 chassis from springs back, and putting a roof top tent on top.

I have the tub, chassis rear, axle, disco wheels.

what is the weakest or most stressed point in a trailer chassis?

[loanrangie]

I am looking at building a trailer using a s/wagon rear tub, s/wagon rear doors (without window frame) for access to storage or slide out draws/kitchen, coil axle (without centre) with a-frame and t-arms, rear of 110 chassis from springs back, and putting a roof top tent on top.

I have the tub, chassis rear, axle, disco wheels.

what is the weakest or most stressed point in a trailer chassis?

I would say the draw bar but it if its balanced correctly it shouldnt be any more stressed than the rest of the frame - offroad would stress the drawbar though.