Series 1 resto tips needed and spares

[landyfromanuthaland]

Is the rivetting on the landys able to be done by me, I need to replace the outer skins on the rear tub of my 51, they are bent to badly to be presentable, I can use them as patterns but fixing them is the prob, where do u get the rivets, are they aircraft style?
My engine has been left in an open state for many years and is seized solid, could I be sneaky and fit a later 2.25 in the litle fella, not really going for total authenticity with the rebuild, reliable, neat and tidy will do
What I will need progressivley over time is
2 sets of doors, one set suit 51, on set suit 56
front guards, nose panel,grille, blinkers and tails
51 model instrument panel, bare ok may use new VDO guages
petrol tank cap, lead on left tank for 51.
screen frame suit 51
canopy bows to fit a rag top to a 51
tail gate suit 51
bonnet suit 51
2 front bumpers suit series 1
This is what I can think off now, no doubt be more:wasntme:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Is the rivetting on the landys able to be done by me, I need to replace the outer skins on the rear tub of my 51, they are bent to badly to be presentable, I can use them as patterns but fixing them is the prob, where do u get the rivets, are they aircraft style?

The sides and rear corner are spot welded to the inner seat box. You can weld the old aluminium/alloy to new aluminium/alloy but preparation is VERY important. It can be done by TIG from the back to imitate the spot welds. (If you like you can also use pop rivets.)
The gal capping is riveted. Pop rivets from side, mushroom headed rivets from the top. Yes you can do those yourself.
It may be easier to get another better tub!



...My engine has been left in an open state for many years and is seized solid, could I be sneaky and fit a later 2.25 in the litle fella, not really going for total authenticity with the rebuild, reliable, neat and tidy will do. ...

Reconditioning the "F" head 1.595 litre can be expensive.
You can fit a 2.283 litre but it is tight, you will need to change the gearbox bell-housing for a Series 2 suffix a off a 2.283.
The protrusion over the starter in the bellhousing will hit the passengers floor, so the floor will need modification next to the gearbox hump.
The bottom outlet on the radiator is on the opposite side, it needs to be changed or fit a S2 radiator.
The engine mounts from the 1.595 litre can be adapted to fit on the 2.283 litre in various ways.
The carby elbow may hit the underside of the bonnet. Some people lift the bonnet or put blocks underneath the front.
The diff may hit the sump.


...What I will need progressivley over time is
2 sets of doors, one set suit 51, on set suit 56
front guards, nose panel,grille, blinkers and tails
51 model instrument panel, bare ok may use new VDO guages

Most 80" doors will need repair and reinforcement but are around.
Lots of 1954-58 doors around.
Front guards for 88"/109" S1 are around, but may require getting a few sets and mix and match the best parts.
What is a nose panel? :confused:
Plenty of good grills around!
Instruments for an 80" can get expensive, particularly the speedo.



petrol tank cap, lead on left tank for 51.
screen frame suit 51
canopy bows to fit a rag top to a 51
tail gate suit 51
bonnet suit 51
2 front bumpers suit series 1
This is what I can think off now, no doubt be more:wasntme:

Petrol tank caps can be found
Non-leaking tanks are hard to find. Why LHS? That is the tool box? Or do you want 2 tanks. The LHS in that case is the same as the RHS but you need to re route the exhaust pipe.
Most screen frames have been welded at the bottom of the LHS. Passengers standing up and holding onto the screen for support. They are made of 1" water pipe.
Mike Bishop in Melbourne is about to reproduce hood bow sets for the 80" models.
Good tailgates are like good doors, can be repaired or easily fabricated.
Fred and Cheryl Lomas - Fabristeel Engineering, Wellington Street, Riverstone NSW sales@fabristeel.com.au have recently completed a batch of replica bars for most of the Series 1 models, from the fishplate chassis 1949s to the 88/109" models. they are in stock and cost about $250 each plus shipping. However be warned they are very bright and shiny on the galvanising.
Bonnets are around, but be careful the hinge positions changed early in the 1951 model. Do you have any fittings? I may have a reasonable one off my 1951, but has a little dent over the 2.283 carby position.


Here is a collection of pretty straight bits!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/09/274.jpg

Lots of fun with the restoration. :D:D:D:D

C Ya
Diana

[numpty]

The sides and rear corner are spot welded to the inner seat box. You can weld the old aluminium/alloy to new aluminium/alloy but preparation is VERY important. It can be done by TIG from the back to imitate the spot welds. (If you like you can also use pop rivets.)
The gal capping is riveted. Pop rivets from side, mushroom headed rivets from the top. Yes you can do those yourself.
It may be easier to get another better tub!
Reconditioning the "F" head 1.595 litre can be expensive.
You can fit a 2.283 litre but it is tight, you will need to change the gearbox bell-housing for a Series 2 suffix a off a 2.283.
The protrusion over the starter in the bellhousing will hit the passengers floor, so the floor will need modification next to the gearbox hump.
The bottom outlet on the radiator is on the opposite side, it needs to be changed or fit a S2 radiator.
The engine mounts from the 1.595 litre can be adapted to fit on the 2.283 litre in various ways.
The carby elbow may hit the underside of the bonnet. Some people lift the bonnet or put blocks underneath the front.
The diff may hit the sump.
Most 80" doors will need repair and reinforcement but are around.
Lots of 1954-58 doors around.
Front guards for 88"/109" S1 are around, but may require getting a few sets and mix and match the best parts.
What is a nose panel? :confused:
Plenty of good grills around!
Instruments for an 80" can get expensive, particularly the speedo.
Petrol tank caps can be found
Non-leaking tanks are hard to find. Why LHS? That is the tool box? Or do you want 2 tanks. The LHS in that case is the same as the RHS but you need to re route the exhaust pipe.
Most screen frames have been welded at the bottom of the LHS. Passengers standing up and holding onto the screen for support. They are made of 1" water pipe.
Mike Bishop in Melbourne is about to reproduce hood bow sets for the 80" models.
Good tailgates are like good doors, can be repaired or easily fabricated.
Fred and Cheryl Lomas - Fabristeel Engineering, Wellington Street, Riverstone NSW sales@fabristeel.com.au have recently completed a batch of replica bars for most of the Series 1 models, from the fishplate chassis 1949s to the 88/109" models. they are in stock and cost about $250 each plus shipping. However be warned they are very bright and shiny on the galvanising.
Bonnets are around, but be careful the hinge positions changed early in the 1951 model. Do you have any fittings? I may have a reasonable one off my 1951, but has a little dent over the 2.283 carby position.
Here is a collection of pretty straight bits!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/09/274.jpg

Lots of fun with the restoration. :D:D:D:D

C Ya
Diana

That's a nice straight 80" Diana. What plans are afoot for it? Our one has no straight panels although the chassis and firewall are excellent.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

That's a nice straight 80" Diana. What plans are afoot for it? Our one has no straight panels although the chassis and firewall are excellent.
It's for sale,

It was part of a 2 vehicle package where we wanted the 1949 vehicle and the vendor wouldn't split the the two vehicles.

It is a very early 1951 with wide front springs, so still has the freewheel unit with yellow button. All the numbers are very close. The down side is that the engine had the sump off and number 3 big end removed but we don't know why.

I was thinking of using the front guards for my 1951 restoration but decided not to and we have left it as a complete vehicle. Although we did remove the engine for a few hours until we realised how close the number was.

In the mean time we have collected together many of the bits that were missing like most other projects.

Diana

[numpty]

It's for sale,

It was part of a 2 vehicle package where we wanted the 1949 vehicle and the vendor wouldn't split the the two vehicles.

It is a very early 1951 with wide front springs, so still has the freewheel unit with yellow button. All the numbers are very close. The down side is that the engine had the sump off and number 3 big end removed but we don't know why.

I was thinking of using the front guards for my 1951 restoration but decided not to and we have left it as a complete vehicle. Although we did remove the engine for a few hours until we realised how close the number was.

In the mean time we have collected together many of the bits that were missing like most other projects.

Diana

That's interesting. Our '50 has the narrow springs and no free wheel ie it has yellow lever and red hi-lo lever. Also of course has headlights behind grille.

[JDNSW]

That's interesting. Our '50 has the narrow springs and no free wheel ie it has yellow lever and red hi-lo lever. Also of course has headlights behind grille.

Are you sure that is not a free wheel unit attached to the yellow knob? As Diana pointed out, hers has the freewheel with the yellow button. But of course, the selectable front wheel drive transfer case extension (or the whole transfer case) is a bolt on replacement for the free wheel unit, and who knows what has been done to it in the last 57 years!

John

[landyfromanuthaland]

I have the time to do the work, if its inside my capabilities I will tackle anything, Yes I was interested in having 2 fuel tanks although not a prime concern if one pops up all well and good if not I wont be crying for weeksover it, I dont want to keep it totally original to the letter, she will be a mix match , I will use either an International truck speedo and ancillary guages or go for new VDO units, that doesnt bug me too much, If I can gather the bits I can create from what I have, most likely series 2 diffs and springs will be fitted as mine doesnt have springs or diffs and these I can get easily, I will look further in to the engine biz, might see if I can adapt an A14 nissan motor into it, I am converting my series3 to a holden 6 and fairy Odrive so I will have a late 5 bearing 2.25 to use, could just pop in a series3 box as well and jerry the rest as I go along,
When I say nose panel I mean the panel the grille and headlites fit in, mines bent but could be straightened I guess, bueaty of alloy!
From the exterior she will look the good right down to the canopy, just underneath she will be later model.
Did the early ones have door tops? seems to look like not.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Are you sure that is not a free wheel unit attached to the yellow knob? ... John
Numpty the freewheel unit transfer box continued until about 4,000 1951 model vehicles had been made (In the RHD models chassis numbers 16100603, 16160909, 16660787) when they changed to the later selectable 4 wheel drive transfer boxes.

In the 1950 model the ring pull in the floor was replaced with a yellow button mechanism which simply replicated the function of the ring pull. This change happened at chassis number 06103885, when the 1950 model still had the 5" Butler headlights behind the grill, shackles at the front of the front springs, the "sprung" shovel shaped seat backs and the corresponding wide transom.

None of the yellow button 1950s had the fishplate brackets for the front bumper as this changed about 40 vehicles before.

The yellow button 1950s are good because you can retrofit later gearbox assemblies and most people wont know it's not original. :wasntme:

Diana

[master chief]

I have the time to do the work, if its inside my capabilities I will tackle anything, Yes I was interested in having 2 fuel tanks although not a prime concern if one pops up all well and good if not I wont be crying for weeksover it, I dont want to keep it totally original to the letter, she will be a mix match , I will use either an International truck speedo and ancillary guages or go for new VDO units, that doesnt bug me too much, If I can gather the bits I can create from what I have, most likely series 2 diffs and springs will be fitted as mine doesnt have springs or diffs and these I can get easily, I will look further in to the engine biz, might see if I can adapt an A14 nissan motor into it, I am converting my series3 to a holden 6 and fairy Odrive so I will have a late 5 bearing 2.25 to use, could just pop in a series3 box as well and jerry the rest as I go along,
When I say nose panel I mean the panel the grille and headlites fit in, mines bent but could be straightened I guess, bueaty of alloy!
From the exterior she will look the good right down to the canopy, just underneath she will be later model.
Did the early ones have door tops? seems to look like not.

Hello all,yes you could get door tops for the 80,s.re your mudguards are you after a set for the 51 model or an 88" series 1?.there are two guard types that were fitted to the 51 models so you would have to check chassis no against a parts book to find the change point.though i,m sure Diana could tell you as well.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

... ... re your mudguards are you after a set for the 51 model or an 88" series 1?.there are two guard types that were fitted to the 51 models so you would have to check chassis no against a parts book to find the change point.though i,m sure Diana could tell you as well.
Justin - Who? What? did someone call my name? :wasntme:

The spot welded 1 piece mudguards came in at chassis numbers:
16103899 RHD Home (UK) market
16163018 RHD Export Market
16662023 RHD CKD Export Market

BTW This is also where the side lamp on the firewall was moved to being on the front of the guards.

Diana :angel:

[master chief]

Well done Diana,i didnt feel like getting my book!LAZY.:angel:

[numpty]

Numpty the freewheel unit transfer box continued until about 4,000 1951 model vehicles had been made (In the RHD models chassis numbers 16100603, 16160909, 16660787) when they changed to the later selectable 4 wheel drive transfer boxes.

In the 1950 model the ring pull in the floor was replaced with a yellow button mechanism which simply replicated the function of the ring pull. This change happened at chassis number 06103885, when the 1950 model still had the 5" Butler headlights behind the grill, shackles at the front of the front springs, the "sprung" shovel shaped seat backs and the corresponding wide transom.

None of the yellow button 1950s had the fishplate brackets for the front bumper as this changed about 40 vehicles before.

The yellow button 1950s are good because you can retrofit later gearbox assemblies and most people wont know it's not original. :wasntme:Diana

Thanks for that explanation. I confess, I have never looked too closely at the mechanism.
Always learning.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Numpty

Did you get onto Jim Pearl on Russell Island about spares. He has a number of S1 vehicles which I assume some of which he is going to part out.

Diana

[landyfromanuthaland]

mine is definately a little 80 inch, I was figuring I could make copys of the rear 1/4s using new alloy plate, is this the norm if necessary?, I am clever enuff to do this, I will dig up the numbers of mine and post em and see if that sheds any light as to her exact year of make, could be earlier, could be touch later.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

mine is definately a little 80 inch, I was figuring I could make copys of the rear 1/4s using new alloy plate, is this the norm if necessary?, ...
As the Buddha said "there are many paths to the top of the mountain".

Some people:
Fill the dents with nikky and paint over!
Rivet patches and seam separations!
make whole new tubs!
anything in-between!

Certainly it is possible to make a new side, they are basically flat with a couple of bends. The biggest problem is going to be the curve of the wheel arch and the reinforcing piece inside.

You should use the correct material which (i believe) is 5025 alloy in 1.2mm.

It is possible to TIG or spot weld old to new panels, but you have to clean off any oxidisation immediately before spot welding. Yes you can use countersink aircraft rivets but that will show on the inside. Then someone like me will come along and start counting them! :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

It is compulsory to post lots of piccys!!

Diana :D:D:twobeers:

[landyfromanuthaland]

Bugger, sounds like its gonna be a real chore, i dont want to half **** the thing and fill it with poop and be happy, have to pop the rivets and get the old panel off, maybe it can be straightened, will photograph the progress for u all