SLS Remote

[Stewie]

I have a TD5 ES with SLS. The SLS will go up in extended mode and also if I activatew it from the dashboard mounted switch, however I cannot seen to get the remote to lower the vehicle! I'm thinking that the remote may need re programming to the car?

Any clues?

[5teve]

if the remote works going up... i would imagine the remote is working ok.. maybe the button is stuffed for down?

it is the green 2 button remote isnt it? the down arrow pressed for going down and the landrover button for going up?

Thanks

Steve

[Stewie]

Thanks Steve, No the remote doesn;t work in either direction however the dashboard button works for going up.


if the remote works going up... i would imagine the remote is working ok.. maybe the button is stuffed for down?

it is the green 2 button remote isnt it? the down arrow pressed for going down and the landrover button for going up?

Thanks

Steve

[5teve]

does the little red light glow when you press the button? and have you changed the battery? stupid question i know but worth asking!

Thanks

Steve

[ladas]

For it to work with a remote - you have to get the 'special wiz bang' remote with the extra buttons on it, and have the car/remote programmed

............and from memory it's bloody expensive :o

[5teve]

Thats why i was asking about the green remote.. im assuming that is what he has.. the one with the small picture of a trailer on it..

if not then yes he needs one.. wish i had my old phone (now rip) working... as i could post a photo then... ah just found one

http://www.roverconnection.com/Disco%202%20Acc/Land_Rover_Discovery_Self_Levelling_Suspension_Rem ote.jpg

Thanks

Steve

[Stewie]

Yes the little red light comes on when I press either button. I haven;t changed the batteries as the light on the remote is working when I press eith of the buttons on it.


does the little red light glow when you press the button? and have you changed the battery? stupid question i know but worth asking!

Thanks

Steve

[5teve]

maybe worth a shot tho? maybe had enough to light the light but not enough to reach the car... before you do that tho....

.... read the manual.. the car needs to be running / or the key needs to be in and ignition on , door shut and i think thats it... says in the handbook...

maybe thats the problem as it threw me too...

Thanks

Steve

[Stewie]

Yeah, I've checked the handbook and tried both with engine running and ignition key at position II with all dorrs closed.

I'll try and change the batteries and see if that works.



maybe worth a shot tho? maybe had enough to light the light but not enough to reach the car... before you do that tho....

.... read the manual.. the car needs to be running / or the key needs to be in and ignition on , door shut and i think thats it... says in the handbook...

maybe thats the problem as it threw me too...

Thanks

Steve

[BigJon]

I can't remeber for Disco II, but Disco 3 requires hazards lights to be on.

[5teve]

definitly not for the discoII as i use it regularly for dropping the backend dow at the drive in cinema so we get a more upward facing angle :D

unless it was introduced after mine?
Thanks

Steve

[sniegy]

Is it or was it programmed to the vehicle?
If not then the "Plip" needs to be programmed otherwise your just wasting your time.
As said the doors need to be closed & ignition on.
No hazards on the D2 but yes with the D3;)
Cheers:)

[Blknight.aus]

now Ive seen everything...

if the key needs to be in the ignition and the door needs to be closed FFS press the bloody button on the dash....

I might have understood if it was for access to the vehicle but hang about... IF you have to lower it to get in wouldnt you have lowered it to get out?


Disco drivers gotta have everything that opens, closes lifts lowers goes doof doof and probabley makes a coffee while your at it and at the press of a button while 10 feet from the vehicle....I'll keep the simple stuff like my hose outable Dont have to worry about mud or sand getting trampled into the uplholstery or filling it up with water as balast for river crossings defender... Scratch that Im going back to a Na 2.25diesel IIa...

bloody techno freaks you'll be the end of the world as we know it....

[Stewie]

I'm sure the "Plip" was programmed to the car however I do know the car has had a new engine. Maybe it needs re programming to the ECU?

Do you know if this can be achieved using a sequence of actions or does it have to be done using a computer at a dealer or a rovacom?

Is it or was it programmed to the vehicle?
If not then the "Plip" needs to be programmed otherwise your just wasting your time.
As said the doors need to be closed & ignition on.
No hazards on the D2 but yes with the D3;)
Cheers:)

[Stewie]

The SLS remote is a totally separate remote to the key fob.

Yes it's a bit of a gimmick but hey, I was told it works and it doesn't so I wanna know why. Besides if and when i come to sell the vehicle I want to make sure I inform any new owner of things that do and don't work!

Thanks for your input though ... it was greatly appreciated.

now Ive seen everything...

if the key needs to be in the ignition and the door needs to be closed FFS press the bloody button on the dash....

I might have understood if it was for access to the vehicle but hang about... IF you have to lower it to get in wouldnt you have lowered it to get out?


Disco drivers gotta have everything that opens, closes lifts lowers goes doof doof and probabley makes a coffee while your at it and at the press of a button while 10 feet from the vehicle....I'll keep the simple stuff like my hose outable Dont have to worry about mud or sand getting trampled into the uplholstery or filling it up with water as balast for river crossings defender... Scratch that Im going back to a Na 2.25diesel IIa...

bloody techno freaks you'll be the end of the world as we know it....

[BradM]

Geez, you guys are flash over east.

We poor pilbara people have to lower the drivers window then reach in with the engine running and push the button on the dash to raise or lower.

BradM

[5teve]

as far as i know the d2 doesnt have a lower button on the dash? im pretty sure mine doesnt... but maybe im just not looking properly!

Thanks

Steve

[Stewie]

I'm sure you mean that pushing the button on the dash will raise the back end of the vehicle and then lower it again to it's drive height. Pushing this button on the dash (as far as I'm aware) will not lower the vehicle past it's drive height.
Please correct em if I'm wrong as this will solve my problem and I'll just lower the vehicle using the button on the dash.


Geez, you guys are flash over east.

We poor pilbara people have to lower the drivers window then reach in with the engine running and push the button on the dash to raise or lower.

BradM

[barryj]

now Ive seen everything...

if the key needs to be in the ignition and the door needs to be closed FFS press the bloody button on the dash....

I might have understood if it was for access to the vehicle but hang about... IF you have to lower it to get in wouldnt you have lowered it to get out?


Disco drivers gotta have everything that opens, closes lifts lowers goes doof doof and probabley makes a coffee while your at it and at the press of a button while 10 feet from the vehicle....I'll keep the simple stuff like my hose outable Dont have to worry about mud or sand getting trampled into the uplholstery or filling it up with water as balast for river crossings defender... Scratch that Im going back to a Na 2.25diesel IIa...

bloody techno freaks you'll be the end of the world as we know it....


so ....... want to buy a D2 :D?

[BradM]

Hi,
If it is raised then pushing the button will lower it to the drive height.

Also if it is raised once you reach 60 klms an hour the SLS computer will do the same thing if the load is not there any more.

Great system SLS if you do some heavy towing.

BradM

[Basil135]

Question for the Techo's.....

Due to the prohibitive cost of purchasing the remote control & then having it re-programmed, is there a way I can hook up my own?

I have a couple of 2 button remotes & a receiver. The receiver will operate different relays, in different configerations, depending on how it is programmed.

What I am wondering is, can I tap into the SLS ECU to raise & lower the rear suspension? (D2, SLS, No ACE)

Thanks guys...

[Ricey]

Interested in this as well. My D2 has been sagging overnight which has been a blessing for loading up & easy access overall. In it's typical lifted state & 31" rubber it's a pain & an effort.

[Rosscoe68]

now you would think that someone would make a mod for the nanocom, i know it can test the air suspension and by testg it actually lowers it a little. how hard would it be to extend that and use the nanocom to lower or raise the sus ?

[Basil135]

Question for the Techo's.....

Due to the prohibitive cost of purchasing the remote control & then having it re-programmed, is there a way I can hook up my own?

I have a couple of 2 button remotes & a receiver. The receiver will operate different relays, in different configerations, depending on how it is programmed.

What I am wondering is, can I tap into the SLS ECU to raise & lower the rear suspension? (D2, SLS, No ACE)

Thanks guys...


More of a bump than anything...

Any ideas?

[meteor]

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/48bf077e198e569c273fc0a87e0106b6/Product/View/L5440

Found an elcheapo replacement remote, would just need to be coded for the sls. Could probably double up as the standard keyless door remote at the same time...:)

[Basil135]

http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/48bf077e198e569c273fc0a87e0106b6/Product/View/L5440

Found an elcheapo replacement remote, would just need to be coded for the sls. Could probably double up as the standard keyless door remote at the same time...:)

The only problem with this one is that it is a learning remote. Once the frequency (433 mhz) has been set, it still needs to learn the actual code for the SLS. This means that we need to have one already programmed to the car so that the code can be taken from it.

But I like your thinking, and it might be something that I can work with. The remote & receiver I have are also from Rhino. From past experiences, they supply good products.

Thanks for your input.

[Basil135]

Question for the Techo's.....

Due to the prohibitive cost of purchasing the remote control & then having it re-programmed, is there a way I can hook up my own?

I have a couple of 2 button remotes & a receiver. The receiver will operate different relays, in different configerations, depending on how it is programmed.

What I am wondering is, can I tap into the SLS ECU to raise & lower the rear suspension? (D2, SLS, No ACE)

Thanks guys...

At the risk of eternal banishment into the world of fussy Disco 2 owners, anyone in the brains trust have an idea as to how I could go about this?

Cheers,:toilet:

[Rosscoe68]

just stumbled back on this thread. i was playing with nanocom the other day and i can raise and lower the sls left and right individually about 2-3mm at a time in the SLABS testing section then the set height can be stored. i have thus set my rear up about an extra 10mm higher than was when i got it. it now appears to sit level as opposed to slightly bum down when i got it. there is also a transit mode which drops the sls onto the bump stops, although i have not tried this yet and requires a laptop to be connected to nanocom. surely the nanocom could be tapped into to raise and lower the suspension to personal preference without a laptop on hand? anyone ?

[Stewie]

just stumbled back on this thread. i was playing with nanocom the other day and i can raise and lower the sls left and right individually about 2-3mm at a time in the SLABS testing section then the set height can be stored. i have thus set my rear up about an extra 10mm higher than was when i got it. it now appears to sit level as opposed to slightly bum down when i got it. there is also a transit mode which drops the sls onto the bump stops, although i have not tried this yet and requires a laptop to be connected to nanocom. surely the nanocom could be tapped into to raise and lower the suspension to personal preference without a laptop on hand? anyone ?

I'd like to know where I can get pne of these nanocom's from?

[sniegy]

Stewie,
The plip button needs to be held down also for this to operate, (excuse me for stating the obvious if u already know, but not sure) not just a one touch operation. If u hold the button down on the green plip, the LED will flash fast to tell the BCU to operate.
It does take time & is also not a fast operation.
The battery in the plip has to be good as well as your battery in the vehicle. It is probably best to have the vehilce running.

If this doesnt work!? or works in only one direction!?, then u may have a crook connection on the pc board of the plip where one of the buttons is not soldered correctly.

If it works in one direction which i think u said earlier, then the BCU knows the plip. It is either a dud or a small fault somewhere. Take the plip apart by removing the rear cover & see if there is signs of water inside..If so then this may be your culprit, a good clean with contact clean & it may work again or destined to the scap heap.

You can try reprogramming with Testbook/Nanocom etc but this would mean someone here or a dealer would need to help out.

Good luck.


I'm sure the "Plip" was programmed to the car however I do know the car has had a new engine. Maybe it needs re programming to the ECU?

Do you know if this can be achieved using a sequence of actions or does it have to be done using a computer at a dealer or a rovacom?

[d2dave]

This can be done. Here is a link to another forum where they have done it by purchasing a kit. The kit is just a switch and some wire, with fitting instructions.

If we could find some one here that is an electrical guru to suss this out it would be very easy.

Disco 2 David pye's SLS lowering suspension kit with pictures - Land Rover Zone (http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/david-pyes-sls-lowering-suspension-kit-pictures-214802.html)

[Graeme]

The kit has a circuit board fitted between the switch wires and the wires to be connected to the SLABS ecu. The circuit board appears to be fitted with a micro-processor IC and presumably a 5V regulator for the IC so the developer has determined the correct signal requirements and generates the up or down signals when the switch indicates up or down is requested.

Edit: The developer found more info than I could when I tried this - the signal is 12V whereas without a vehicle to test it I only tried 5V to be safe. This kit's pcb needs a more robust method of attaching the wires as they will break at the solder joint after a while unless restrained although strapping the pcb and both lots of wires to something rigid should be sufficient.

[David Pye]

Hi everyone!

Glad you've found my kit ;-)

While I'm more than happy to ship them to Aus, I have published all the details of what the kit involves, including code for the ATtiny PIC, etc so you are very welcome to make your own if you'd prefer ;-) I've always been into sharing ideas/designs/code. The PCB design there is designed to use the Arduino Pro Mini, rather than the AtTiny the kit ships with, but the code and principle is the same.

The page with all this info is here :

Project (http://fritzing.org/projects/land-rover-discovery-2-sls-adjuster)

Hope that's of some interest/help :-)

Regards,

David

[d2dave]

Hi everyone!

Glad you've found my kit ;-)

While I'm more than happy to ship them to Aus, I have published all the details of what the kit involves, including code for the ATtiny PIC, etc so you are very welcome to make your own if you'd prefer ;-) I've always been into sharing ideas/designs/code. The PCB design there is designed to use the Arduino Pro Mini, rather than the AtTiny the kit ships with, but the code and principle is the same.

The page with all this info is here :

Project (http://fritzing.org/projects/land-rover-discovery-2-sls-adjuster)

Hope that's of some interest/help :-)

Regards,

David

After some back and forth email comunications with this poster, I felt that building one of these was beyond my capabilities, so I have placed an order for one.

From these communications he does seem like a really top bloke, only too happy to help other Landie owners as we all are, which is what makes AULRO such a great place.

[Graeme]

After some back and forth email comunications with this poster, I felt that building one of these was beyond my capabilities, so I have placed an order for one.Why would one bother to make it oneself if not in the business when he's barely covering the cost of the components?

PS Don't try to use such a module if a remote SLS fob is already enabled for the vehicle because there will be conflicts between the BCM signal and the module's signal causing a minimum of neither working and the possibly of destroying components in the BCU, SLABS or this module.

[d2dave]

PS Don't try to use such a module if a remote SLS fob is already enabled for the vehicle because there will be conflicts between the BCM signal and the module's signal causing a minimum of neither working and the possibly of destroying components in the BCU, SLABS or this module.

No chance of that happening. If I had the remote I would not be purchasing this.

Thanks for the heads up though, on the off chance I stumble across a remote.

[David Pye]

Why would one bother to make it oneself if not in the business when he's barely covering the cost of the components?

PS Don't try to use such a module if a remote SLS fob is already enabled for the vehicle because there will be conflicts between the BCM signal and the module's signal causing a minimum of neither working and the possibly of destroying components in the BCU, SLABS or this module.

Hi Graeme,

Just wanted to say: You won't have the problem you mention above about signal conflicts, as part of the installation process is to disconnect the wire between the BCU and the SLABS ECU, which sends the signal from the radio 'fob' receiver.

So if you install my kit, a up/down fob won't work at all. In order to make the fob work again, you'd need to remove the module and remake the connection between the SLABS ecu and the BCU.

Cheers,

David

[Rosscoe68]

how much is the kit posted to australia ?

[David Pye]

Works out at £35 including postage (Royal Mail Airmail 3-5 days service)

David

[joel0407]

how much is the kit posted to australia ?

Converts to $61.75 with Paypal.

I'll post some pics of mine when it arrives but I wont be able to tell you how good it is until I get my SLS working properly. I have 3 new bags and a new compressor on the way too.

Happy Days.

[Graeme]

David,
Why does the wire need cutting?

[David Pye]

Hi Graeme,

The wire needs cutting because of this:

The BCU (body control unit ECU) outputs a continuous square wave with a 50% duty cycle to the SLABS ECU - this is the 'no signal received from the suspension remote'

When the BCU receives an up or down request from the remote it changes the duty cycle of the signal to either 75% or 25% respectively.

So even when there's no signal from the remote there is still a continous signal on that wire from the BCU.

In order to 'take over' from the BCU in providing that signal, it's necessary to disconnect it from the SLABS ECU otherwise the signals would interfere horribly.

The PIC on the circuit board in the kit produces this signal continuously and modulates the duty signal when you press the switch up or down.

[Graeme]

Have you verified that the 50% signal exists if the BCU is not enabled for SLS remote use?

[David Pye]

I have, yes, and it is present.

David

[Graeme]

So that will be the reason my attempt failed, not having access to a vehicle to discover there's an existing signal and trying to over-ride it by imposing the 25%/75% signals. I didn't find any reference to the duty cycles percentages employed so tried 25% & 75% then all 10% steps then all 5% steps, all to no avail. At least someone has provided an inexpensive switchable facility in lieu of the expensive remote.

[Basil135]

So that will be the reason my attempt failed, not having access to a vehicle to discover there's an existing signal and trying to over-ride it by imposing the 25%/75% signals. I didn't find any reference to the duty cycles percentages employed so tried 25% & 75% then all 10% steps then all 5% steps, all to no avail. At least someone has provided an inexpensive switchable facility in lieu of the expensive remote.

We were close... :cool:

[Graeme]

But not close enough! I didn't find references to the duty cycles used in Rave but possibly they're there somewhere.

[d2dave]

Mine arrived today in the mail. Thanks Dave.

[David Pye]

Great - let me know how you get on with it!

David

[d2dave]

I installed the kit today. It works a treat. Very happy:thumbsup:

Thanks Dave Pye.

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/5584/wsdm.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/266/wsdm.jpg/)

[Rosscoe68]

does this allow you to incrementally adjust up and down on the ride height ? and is tere a reset to default ride height ?
i tow a camper and sometimes would like to raise or lower the rear to level the camper rather than disconnect the camper and level with the front jockey wheel ?

[d2dave]

This is how it works. Mounted on my dash is a switch. Ignition has to be on, but it will work with either motor running or not running.

When I push the spring loaded switch down and hold it, the bells start chiming and the appropriate light on the dash flashes. At any time you let go of the switch it then stops and stays at that point.

The same applies when going up. It stops automatically when it it reaches top or bottom limits and automatically raises back to normal height when the car reaches a certain speed. What this speed is I do not know, as there is no indication telling me this is happening, it just happens. I do know that it starts at a very slow speed, below 20kph I suspect.

[fourteen8]

This is how it works. Mounted on my dash is a switch. Ignition has to be on, but it will work with either motor running or not running.

When I push the spring loaded switch down and hold it, the bells start chiming and the appropriate light on the dash flashes. At any time you let go of the switch it then stops and stays at that point.

The same applies when going up. It stops automatically when it it reaches top or bottom limits and automatically raises back to normal height when the car reaches a certain speed. What this speed is I do not know, as there is no indication telling me this is happening, it just happens. I do know that it starts at a very slow speed, below 20kph I suspect.

Hi Dave,

Do you think you can post the pic of the switch installed on the dashboard? Thanks.

[d2dave]

Will do it tonight. I am a bit busy at the moment, and after just having 10mm of rain in about two minutes, my D2 is sitting in about 72 mm of water.

[d2dave]

Here is the photo. I placed the switch so I did not have to drill any holes in the dash.

The maker, Dave Pye, suggests mounting it in one of the blank switches on the side of the instrument binnacle. This is a good spot but the only blank one I have is on the left side, and I wanted easy access through the window.

I have ordered one of these which I am hoping will work. It will work if, when holding down the button, it sends a constant signal. For its small price I am prepared to risk it.

DC12V 2CH Channel Wireless Remote Control Switch System | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200678539983'ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/fgmx.jpg/)

[fourteen8]

Here is the photo. I placed the switch so I did not have to drill any holes in the dash.

The maker, Dave Pye, suggests mounting it in one of the blank switches on the side of the instrument binnacle. This is a good spot but the only blank one I have is on the left side, and I wanted easy access through the window.

I have ordered one of these which I am hoping will work. It will work if, when holding down the button, it sends a constant signal. For its small price I am prepared to risk it.

DC12V 2CH Channel Wireless Remote Control Switch System | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200678539983'ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/1595/fgmx.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/690/fgmx.jpg/)

Please let us know if the remote is working too. Thanks.

[d2dave]

Will do

[rstevensen]

Could you please let me know how you purchased the SLS unit?
Cheers, Romy

[michaelp]

Could you please let me know how you purchased the SLS unit?
Cheers, Romy

Here is the link.

SLS Air Suspension Height Controller for Land Rover Discovery Series 2 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SLS-Air-Suspension-Height-Controller-for-Land-Rover-Discovery-Series-2-/151106078782?)

I bought one but haven't fitted it yet.

[d2dave]

I just dealt with him direct through email.

Here it is if you want it.

davidmpye@gmail.com

[d2dave]

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I ordered one of these.

DC12V 2CH Channel Wireless Remote Control Switch System | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200678539983'ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649&clk_rvr_id=527361136288)

It arrived last week, and after hooking it up to 12 volts and the running the multimeter over it I was happy that it would work. I installed it last night, and yes, it works a treat.

I believe that this overall set up is better than just the LR remote because if the remote fails, or batteries go flat, I can still operate it from my switch on the dash.

The total cost of this was $70, better than LR's $300.

[rstevensen]

Another successful install, thank you all for the answers provided and Dave Pye for the part.
As an aside, the pickup tool from hardware store worth its value in gold (previous attempt with the CB wiring install was a lot more challenging)

[d2dave]

Another successful install, thank you all for the answers provided and Dave Pye for the part.
As an aside, the pickup tool from hardware store worth its value in gold (previous attempt with the CB wiring install was a lot more challenging)

Are you going to add the remote like I did?

[rstevensen]

Yes, I will. I got it it will be the next step. Did you get any instructions with the remote unit as it is not clear to me where to connect the wires? One of the jumpers was off and I am waiting or assistance from the ebay seller. Please see picture attached. Would you be in a position to provide some guidance please?
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/227.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/10/227.jpg

[d2dave]

http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6060/jeix.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/29/jeix.jpg/)

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more questions if you wish, happy to help.

You will want to connect the + terminal to a supply that provides power only when ignition is on, and obviously the - terminal to earth. I found a female slot in the fuse box for the positive. Can take a pic if you can't find it.

The white coil of wire is the antenna. I found that by uncoiling it and running it outside of the unit, the range was increased.

[rstevensen]

Thank you very much for the information provided. I will act on it in the near future. Did you also experience the loose jumper inside the remote unit and played around with the exact position until you got it right?
Cheers,
Romy

[d2dave]

No loose jumper in mine. Not even sure what you are referring to.

[rstevensen]

The jumper I am referring to is located in the top right hand corner of the photo I had posted earlier, lying loose next to the circuit board. Right next to it, on the circuit board there is room to place the jumper on.
Cheers,
Romy