Beefing up Series 2a Cv Joints

[Brett]

Hi, I have a 2a 109 and broke the drivers side cv (uni joint) I was driving over some rough terrain ,should i replace with oringinal type or is there a stronger mod.


Brett

[shinz]

In far too many years of eating, sleeping & breathing things Land Rover I've not come across anything after market for the series uni joints. There may be someone who knows if one supplier makes better ones than another but I've never heard of this. A possibility is to use Stage1 CV joints but you're getting into modding steering swivels & hassles with spline counts. TI Consol in Holland do a series CV replacement but I think they're way expensive. This does not seem to come up very often so you may have been unlucky. Unless you're planning on a lot of similar heavy off roading I'd go for direct replacement.
Steve.

[Blknight.aus]

the original unis are more than strong enough when the vehicle is in original trim. they usually fracture the axle at the diff side (Ive busted 2 myself) if the unis let go my thinking tends to lean towards them not being lubed properly or the axle not being setup properly and the axle allowed to slide out of position and putting undesired stress on the joint.

[JDNSW]

Series Landrovers, except for very early 80" and Stage 1 that are full time four wheel drive, do not have CV joints. The universal in the swivel housing is the same as the one on the prop shafts except that it does not have seals. These are stronger than any CV joint, and failure is almost always due to poor lubrication or misalignment due to worn or badly adjusted swivel bearings - or just plain overloading, and in this case the axle usually breaks, although perhaps not with 24 spline axles (which would not have been original on the Series 2a).

I would simply replace it with the same as original (but a reputable brand), as anything else will involve either a lot of work or a lot of expense or both (as Steve says).

John

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Brett

Go with the standard, there are thousands out there 2nd hand that will cost you next to nothing. Just make sure that you set up everything according to the book and it will keep going for more years to come.

Diana

[Brett]

Thanks, I will go with the oringal set up, And set as per the manual. I am running larger tyres 255 85 16 and was pushing her hard up some rock ledges which had cruisers with lockers having probs.

Brett

[Davo]

Well, that was silly! :D:D:D

Try taking an old (intact) one to a driveline shop and see what they've got in a top-line product. These UJs are a standard size and should be available. Some UJs are really awful and chasing down some quality for this is worth the trouble.

[rovercare]

Hardi spicer uni joints.........Nothing else;)

[shinz]

I am running larger tyres 255 85 16 and was pushing her hard up some rock ledges which had cruisers with lockers having probs.

Brett

Aaaah! So NOW you tell us! :lol2: :lol2:
Sounds like good quality originals still your best bet. I reckon you'll get quicker with practice. :D
Steve.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Thanks, I will go with the oringal set up, And set as per the manual. I am running larger tyres 255 85 16 and was pushing her hard up some rock ledges which had cruisers with lockers having probs. Brett
Brett

Because only the Series (sans-stage 1 V8/4BDI) Land Rover used the particular oil bathed uni-joint in their front end it is getting hard, if not impossible to find the ones without the greaseway which makes them less strong.

Usually it is not a problem and other bits of the vehicle break first, however the Series 2B forward control ran 255/100 R16 as well as having the same joint and would either break the joint or would twist the joint out of the yoke. If using the joints with the greaseway you could guarantee to break the joint. That was the major failing of the S2B (there were others) and you are putting similar stresses on your vehicle.

For what you are doing you need the strongest ones you can get, that means that you need either Series 3, with the 24 spline drive flanges, if you cant get the ones without the greaseway look for 2nd hand half-shaft assemblies with them. Or you could change to an S3 Stage 1 V8 front end, it is essentially a bolt in replacement to your S2a although you should swap your 4.7:1 diff in where the 3.54:1 Stage 1 diff is sitting.

While you are at it why not change to the 3" X 11 front brakes and it's matching 11" rear (with master cylinder of course) they are a much better system.

Cheers
Diana

[JDNSW]

..........however the Series 2B forward control ran 255/100 R16 ........ .......


Not being picky, but I was under the impression that the 2b originally ran 9.00x16 crossply tyres?


But a very good point about the u-joints without greaseways, although Brett's setup probably does not have as much weight on the front wheels as a 2b would, even with the 2b unloaded. On the other hand it sounds as if he is doing things you would not even think of attempting with the 2b.

John