langy
5th October 2007, 10:24 PM
One of the things that can happen is that after replacing your gearbox and putting it all together- it leaks.
Now you know what happens if you install the seal in the first place after installing the collar on the shaft, and then try to slip the seal over the ridges (even using electrical tape or cardboard. In my case the seal got caught, and even though I eased the lip over the ridge, I must have split the lip or popped the spring off.
Well, since I didn't want to drop the box again, and necessity being the mother of invention, I came up with this to re-install the rear seal on the gearbox.
Much like the former used on the rear main seal on a TDi/td5 etc, you need somthing to get it over the ridge. But also it has to be sufficiently slim to fit into the seal, and over the collar.
And since copper pipe isn't made to the right size - try a SPEEDI SLEEVE
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/452.jpg
A speedi sleeve in 43mm. 42 won't fit over the collar (although the collar is 42mm, the speedi sleeve is made slightly smaller and it expands a little) 45mm will sort of work,but I think it stretches the seal too much.
Part2: Getting to it
Apart from the the normal things, if you undo the bolts holding the mount to the TC, chock the gearbox in the correct position at the crossmember, remove handbrake drum and backing plate and use a trolley jack, you can split the two without dropping the cross member.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/453.jpg
And then you tap the seal & sleeve in using a small hammer and a small piece of wood. I use a smear of loctite on the outside of the seal, which is the red stuff you can see.
Part 3: getting it back together
Although the manual suggests removal of the TC main input gear, if you put diff lock on, you simply rotate the gear so it lines up OK, then the gear keeps the shaft from damaging the seal.
And that's it - except do not mix up which bolt goes where. If a long bolt goes into a hole where a short bolt should go, it will lock up the TC or the end of the bolt will get chewed off.
Now you know what happens if you install the seal in the first place after installing the collar on the shaft, and then try to slip the seal over the ridges (even using electrical tape or cardboard. In my case the seal got caught, and even though I eased the lip over the ridge, I must have split the lip or popped the spring off.
Well, since I didn't want to drop the box again, and necessity being the mother of invention, I came up with this to re-install the rear seal on the gearbox.
Much like the former used on the rear main seal on a TDi/td5 etc, you need somthing to get it over the ridge. But also it has to be sufficiently slim to fit into the seal, and over the collar.
And since copper pipe isn't made to the right size - try a SPEEDI SLEEVE
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/452.jpg
A speedi sleeve in 43mm. 42 won't fit over the collar (although the collar is 42mm, the speedi sleeve is made slightly smaller and it expands a little) 45mm will sort of work,but I think it stretches the seal too much.
Part2: Getting to it
Apart from the the normal things, if you undo the bolts holding the mount to the TC, chock the gearbox in the correct position at the crossmember, remove handbrake drum and backing plate and use a trolley jack, you can split the two without dropping the cross member.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/453.jpg
And then you tap the seal & sleeve in using a small hammer and a small piece of wood. I use a smear of loctite on the outside of the seal, which is the red stuff you can see.
Part 3: getting it back together
Although the manual suggests removal of the TC main input gear, if you put diff lock on, you simply rotate the gear so it lines up OK, then the gear keeps the shaft from damaging the seal.
And that's it - except do not mix up which bolt goes where. If a long bolt goes into a hole where a short bolt should go, it will lock up the TC or the end of the bolt will get chewed off.