Underside rust/salt damage

[tobes-b]

Hello all,

I have just purchased a defender 130 single cab ute (first landi) and am absolutly thrilled with my purchase. However there is a few small surface rust spots on the underside that i want to adress as quickly as possible.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/407.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/7238)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/408.jpg (http://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/7237)

was going to sand/grind back as much as possible and then coat with a protective paint of some sort. Any ideas? also want whatever it is i coat it with to be durable and not come off when i pressure clean after beach.

thnx

[barryj]

Do what the regulars do who frequent the beach. A light coating of oil\diesel will kill any rust.

Just buy a degreasing gun for the compressor, assuming you have one if not buy a compressor, lightly spray before you go on the beach. Then when you return wash as normal and re coat with oil\diesel mix when the water is dry.

If you don't believe me have a look under the vehicle around where you have oil leaks. What, no leaks, you must have a rare Land Rover if it has no oil leaks.

Happy beaching :D.

[Blknight.aus]

akin to this trick I also like to put a hose on the end of the degreaser gun thats long enough to slide up the chassis and go nuts in there with fish oil. make sure you get a hose thats flexable enough to "whip" when you go hard with the spray gun that'll ensure you get a good coat inside the chassis.

If you can get em the little plastic bungs that sometimes come on hydraulic hoses pushed hard into the chassis holes will help prevent salt ingress into the openings but If you go fording at all will trap the water in there...

[barryj]

akin to this trick I also like to put a hose on the end of the degreaser gun thats long enough to slide up the chassis and go nuts in there with fish oil. make sure you get a hose thats flexable enough to "whip" when you go hard with the spray gun that'll ensure you get a good coat inside the chassis.

If you can get em the little plastic bungs that sometimes come on hydraulic hoses pushed hard into the chassis holes will help prevent salt ingress into the openings but If you go fording at all will trap the water in there...

I'm with you Blknight. You must have seen your fair share of rust.

[tobes-b]

Sounds simple enough, but you guys wouldent recommend painting exposed bits with some sort of primer and then sealer? That is after iv removed visable bits of rust via your method?

[Blknight.aus]

If your going to paint and primer Dont oil untill after the paint is well and truely cured..

remove the rust with the biggest wire wheel you can safely get in there then wipe down with metho. prime and paint and then your set.

however if your going to be beaching it alot your best effort is to galve the chassis and then oil the thing...

failing that lots of application of fish oil or dieso is best as it doesnt get abraded by the sand quite so much and is easy to reapply.

[barryj]

If your going to paint and primer Dont oil untill after the paint is well and truely cured..

remove the rust with the biggest wire wheel you can safely get in there then wipe down with metho. prime and paint and then your set.

however if your going to be beaching it alot your best effort is to galve the chassis and then oil the thing...

failing that lots of application of fish oil or dieso is best as it doesnt get abraded by the sand quite so much and is easy to reapply.


Once again, I agree.

The only reason I would repaint would be to make it look nice but the oil treatment is what is going to stop the rust.

[tobes-b]

Expensive i would think to galv underside?

Think will take ur advice and ye take drill/wirebrush attach to it all, then recoat in the most durable metal paint i can find.

With the fish oil, just apply b4 i hit the beach ye. WD40 or simmilar still do the trick?

haha just thinking fishoil + hands/clothes = unhappy gf for remainder of w.e :D

[barryj]

Expensive i would think to galv underside?

Think will take ur advice and ye take drill/wirebrush attach to it all, then recoat in the most durable metal paint i can find.

With the fish oil, just apply b4 i hit the beach ye. WD40 or simmilar still do the trick?

haha just thinking fishoil + hands/clothes = unhappy gf for remainder of w.e :D

I have used fish oil on my first car which was an XY Falcon. It stunk for months and eventually dried to a hard film that cracked away from metal allowing dust and water to be trapped = rust.

Fish oil is Ok as long as you re-apply every 12 months or so.

What I like about oil\diesel is that you can wipe it over with a kero rag if you want it off.

WD40 is one that I would not recommend as it evaporates too quickly and costs a lot for the area you want to do.

I have been meaning to try lanolin oil but so far have not. I've seen good reports on this.

[spudboy]

Do a search for Dinitrol 4924. They use that on aeroplanes and ships to rustproof things. You can get it in Australia (or you can in Adelaide anyway).

http://www.chemetall.com.au/images/cmcplr.pdf

Better than fish oil.

[tobes-b]

Intersting spudboy, i may have to investigate.

Just wondering if they will only supply to mine/shipping companies that use in manufacturing process. Or if indeed they will sell small quantities. Worth a look anyway.

[spudboy]

Email this bloke:
gbourne at chemetall.com.au (gbourne@chemetall.com.au)

(replacing the at with an @ obviously)

He is from the Adelaide office and was pretty helpful. He will sell you a small quantity or probably tell you where you can get it closer to home.

HTH

[Utemad]

I use lanolin for all my rustproofing. However do it about 1 week before you hit the beach (or sand) as otherwise all the sand sticks.
However I haven't done the Disco yet. Mine has the standard engine/transfer case oil leak protection.

[spudboy]

BTW - you should fill in your location in your user profile so we know where you are from.

[tobes-b]

BTW - you should fill in your location in your user profile so we know where you are from.

Ahh yes, next thing to fill out :D

[Blknight.aus]

a proper galve job is expensive yes but you can do a reasonable impression of it with cold galv in a can.

heat the area with a hot air gun after cleaning it back and roughing it up and then while its hot apply the cold galv I do this every time I weld mild steel with pretty good results.. and the cold galv also servs as a primer and if used heavily enough will also seal up a fuel tank.

[Bigbjorn]

The procedure used at Leyland Truck and Bus on NEW Series III that clients wanted treated against potential salt corrosion damage was designed by a specialist engineering consultant who stressed that if ferrous metals (and most others) were repeatedly or continuously used in a hostile environment such as a sodium chloride solution ( sea water) then corrosion is inevitable no matter what treatment or maintenance is provided.

The recommended procedure was:-

fill box sections with sufficient thinned mixture of a thinner and an active proprietorial preparation such as Tectyl, Rustlac, or Corroless to slosh around in the boxes, plug the holes in the boxes with plastic bungs, spray the whole underneath with tar epoxy paint, and then cover again with an active soft self-sealing anti-corrosive coating like the previous mentioned three. This will DELAY corrosion in a hostile environment if properly maintained.

Corrosion in ships commences, and is fought against, from launching to breaking. Don't kid yourself. If you repeatedly dip it in salt it will corrode. The stuff will get in the slightest fissures and work away.

[Tank]

Expensive i would think to galv underside?

Think will take ur advice and ye take drill/wirebrush attach to it all, then recoat in the most durable metal paint i can find.

With the fish oil, just apply b4 i hit the beach ye. WD40 or simmilar still do the trick?

haha just thinking fishoil + hands/clothes = unhappy gf for remainder of w.e :D
Make sure you wear Protective glasses, those wire wheels love spitting out spears and you can bet if you dont have goggles on one will end up in your eye, NASTY, Regards Frank.

[ACCO Andrew]

Has anyone used or looked at the electronic CAT system? it's a little box that goes in the engine compartment and produces a negative charge throughout the vehicle which (supposedly) stops the chemical reaction that is rusting...

I got one "thrown in" when i purchased a new Prado... living near the beach and dunking the boat i figured it was worth a try... Haven't had any rust yet - three years later... but who knows if it's because of the CAT???

[Blknight.aus]

they work really well under some circumstances for best results

make sure there are

1. no sharp edges
2. no pre existing rust
3. no bi metalic contact

if you can jag all of that then providing you dont go drowning it in salty water wash it of and dry it promptly in theory they should hold rust at bay forever.

But break down in the contact of the pads, or shaping of the body work will defeat them somewhat. The other common error is incorrect spacing of the contact pads If you think of them as mini radio transmitters too far between them and you loose the signal or clump them too much and you get interferance.

[tobes-b]

Has anyone used or looked at the electronic CAT system? it's a little box that goes in the engine compartment and produces a negative charge throughout the vehicle which (supposedly) stops the chemical reaction that is rusting...

I got one "thrown in" when i purchased a new Prado... living near the beach and dunking the boat i figured it was worth a try... Haven't had any rust yet - three years later... but who knows if it's because of the CAT???

Strange never heard of such a product. Be intresting to see how much one would cost.

Im guessing not that expensive, if so maby a combination of both rust removal/re-paint and CAT.

You got a link to a site selling one by any chance andrew?

[barryj]

Strange never heard of such a product. Be intresting to see how much one would cost.

Im guessing not that expensive, if so maby a combination of both rust removal/re-paint and CAT.

You got a link to a site selling one by any chance andrew?

I'm not Andrew but I have done a bit of research into electronic rust prevention.

http://www.erps.com.au/contents.php?Pid=1&Sid=1

The link above is the product I looked at for our Defender when it was new. I have no affiliation with them, nor did I buy or receive their product.

What I found was the metal to be protected had to be rust free from the start and paint in good condition.

Yearly inspections had to be carried out by one of their agents to keep the warranty.

I read that this type of product works to a limited extent as long as the system remains undamaged and working as designed.

It's interesting that there is a steel bridge crossing Wynnum Creek in Brisbane that uses similar technology but power supply is not an issue.

A friend of mine had this type of product fitted to his second hand Prado only a few months ago. He is a very frequent visitor to Fraser Island so it will be interesting to see if it works for him.

Price quoted for our Defender was around $600 fitted and that was in 1998.

A good friend of mine is a Marine Electrician and is sceptical of benefits of this type of product as he sees many fitted to steel hulled boats.

Hope this helps.

[Captain_Rightfoot]

A good friend of mine is a Marine Electrician and is sceptical of benefits of this type of product as he sees many fitted to steel hulled boats.


Systems used in marine applications where the metals are immersed are cathodic, whereas the car based systems that I have looked into are capacitive.

Don't know whether they work or not, but I spoke to some corrosion specialists and they suggested that they might work :o I heard some very positive anecdotal reports and decided to try one. Tell you in 10 years whether I think it's helped or not :)

[barryj]

Systems used in marine applications where the metals are immersed are cathodic, whereas the car based systems that I have looked into are capacitive.

Don't know whether they work or not, but I spoke to some corrosion specialists and they suggested that they might work :o I heard some very positive anecdotal reports and decided to try one. Tell you in 10 years whether I think it's helped or not :)

I must check with a mate of mine who had one installed over 6 years ago in his Mazda 323. Don't ask me why he did it in that car :no2:.

I know he had to have all rust cut out before the installers would fit the system.

It would be good to have a look at the Lifesavers vehicles on the Gold Coast. On the other hand they don't seem to keep them for too long.

The reason I didn't have one installed was that I can buy a lot of diesel and oil for the $600 quoted and I know that works.

I still have the can I mixed up in 1998, problem is that I accidentally filled my line trimmer with it by mistake! It still runs though :cool:.

[mark2]

I have used fish oil on my first car which was an XY Falcon. It stunk for months and eventually dried to a hard film that cracked away from metal allowing dust and water to be trapped = rust.

Fish oil is Ok as long as you re-apply every 12 months or so.

What I like about oil\diesel is that you can wipe it over with a kero rag if you want it off.

WD40 is one that I would not recommend as it evaporates too quickly and costs a lot for the area you want to do.

I have been meaning to try lanolin oil but so far have not. I've seen good reports on this.

Lanolin is a fantastic rust proofer BUT sand sticks to it like nothing else. I only use it for internal cavities now...........

[waynep]

I only use it for internal cavities now...........

:eek:

[Utemad]

Lanolin is a fantastic rust proofer BUT sand sticks to it like nothing else. I only use it for internal cavities now...........

If you spray it on a week or two before the sand trip then it doesn't.

[Stuck]

Hi Utemad,
What particular lanolin product do you use ?.
Cheers,
Anthony.

[Utemad]

It is made by Lanotec. You can buy it from Bunnings and comes in either a 750ml spray bottle (like ironing aid stuff) or in a 1 litre tin. Can get it in bigger containers but not from Bunnings.

Just make sure you apply in in thin amounts otherwise most of it will end up on the floor.

Costs about $20/L from Bunnings last I bought some.

[isuzurover]

I knopw someone who fitted one of the electronic rust preventioon system to a defender. It got some minor rust in the doors. IMHO it is a waste of money.

I use cold gal (97% zinc), combined with either fish oil or "heavy duty" lanotec. works well.