Rebuilding a 2 Litre

[101RRS]

I have decided that I will rebuild the late 2 litre engine in my "Baby". The engine still runs fine without a lot of crankcase pressure - no fumes out the breather but lots of blue smoke out the exhaust no matter whether hot or cold or at revs or idle.

I have rebuilt a few engines in the past including a 2.2 litre landy engine. That was in 1989 and I had no problem in getting parts - I saw the car the other week and it is still running strong.

With my 2 litre I will do the rebuild myself outsourcing things like the rebore, crank grinding etc. While I am hopeful of being able to reuse the pistons I expect they will need replacing. Bearings, rings and some other parts can usually be sourced via the machine shop - however based on people's actual experiences, what engine parts for the 2 litre am I likely to have to source from landrover specialists. As I said - in 1989 I was able to source everything I needed through the machine shop but it is not 1989 and the engine is not the 2.2.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Garry

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Garry

We are now 18 years later and it is like a different universe with getting parts for the 1997 cc engine.

If you have trouble locally you can try Ian Cox in the UK (Cox and Turner Engineering) they have almost everything for the series 1 engine.

Sorry I don't have the contact details to hand at the moment. Google it starting from www.google.co.uk.

The other issue is how much are you going to use this vehicle anyway? You may get away with just replacing the rings, so what if it burns a little bit of oil.

Regards
Diana

[Blknight.aus]

mate if the compression is still good and even across all 4 pots check the inlet valve stems and seals... It might save you a lot more expensive work..

[JDNSW]

These engines use a fair bit of oil anyway by modern standards, although they should not lay a smoke screen. In 1963 I got away with new rings and bearings (and valve grind plus one new exhaust valve) in one that was using a lot of oil - ran very well with low oil consumption after that, so you do not have to assume that it will need pistons or a rebore, or, indeed, a crankshaft grind.

John

[101RRS]

Thanks for your comments - I agree with most of the views about just re-ringing, valve stem and seals etc. But to do that the engine will be pulled down so I might as well just do the rest. I just have no idea of those little bits and pieces that are pecular to this engine.

I guess I will get a good idea when I remove the head and drop the sump. I just don't want to go to the effort of putting in just say rings and then finding I have to pull the lot down again because I missed something. A crank grind and rebore does not cost much in the scheme of things - it is things like valves, gasket kits and maybe pistons that cost.

I am not keen on having and engine in bits waiting for some part of back order so I want to get the obvious bits in advance.

Cheers

Garry

[UncleHo]

G'day Garrycol :)

I have just read your post in reference to rebuilding your engine, first up, I would suggest that you give it an oil change and filter change, then replace the oil with an older type "Classis Oil" that is one designed for the older types of engine often a single grade, as the modern types of thin oil will not be satifactory in older engines and their oil seals, Penzoil and BP make special single grade oils, this is what the Veteran/Vintage people use, as one wouldn't wish to rebuild a pre 30's Rolls-Royce motor and wreck it by useing the wrong oil, the Vincent Shadow Motorcycle uses a straight 50 grade. so try an oil change first as that may solve the problem;) if not GOOD quality Rings preferably Ex-UK, Turner Engineering in UK (www.turner-engineering.co.uk (http://www.turner-engineering.co.uk)) they would be the go;)

cheers

[101RRS]

G'day Garrycol :)

I have just read your post in reference to rebuilding your engine, first up, I would suggest that you give it an oil change and filter change, then replace the oil with an older type "Classis Oil" that is one designed for the older types of engine often a single grade, as the modern types of thin oil will not be satifactory in older engines and their oil seals, Penzoil and BP make special single grade oils, this is what the Veteran/Vintage people use, as one wouldn't wish to rebuild a pre 30's Rolls-Royce motor and wreck it by useing the wrong oil, the Vincent Shadow Motorcycle uses a straight 50 grade. so try an oil change first as that may solve the problem;) if not GOOD quality Rings preferably Ex-UK, Turner Engineering in UK (www.turner-engineering.co.uk (http://www.turner-engineering.co.uk)) they would be the go;)

cheers

Thanks - I will give that a go - I do the same to my jag to reduce oil weepage throught the rope rear main seal - seems to work OK. But I do think the old series 1 is abit past it but worth a try.

Garry

[landyfromanuthaland]

Surely these parts have to be around, try Auto Surplus in Melb these guys have what the others dont , they were helping me out with my Sidevalve v8 in my 41 Ford and had new ols stock brake hoses etc, been a few years since I used them but they should still be around, I will look for an old invoice and find the phone no for u

[papadad]

Hi,
Do you have an email address for Auto Surplus?
Regards, Lyle

[slug_burner]

Is this the place you're after Automotive Surplus Online (http://www.autosurplus.com.au/)