View Full Version : Things below the waist.
Bleedin Thumb
17th October 2007, 03:49 PM
Hi Folks, I'm having a bit of problems down stairs so to speak.
Firstly The Beast (92 Classic with ABS) is making a horrid clunking sound on full lock, especially in reverse...CV joint is probably the culprit.
So question 1. do you have to replace them both or just the crook one?
Q.2 how long can you drive on a broken CV joint without causing follow on problems and what problems will it cause?
Next problem is I need new front springs and shocks all round. Because of political pressure (SWMBO wants a toyota!) I must undertake said work as cheaply as possible so as to prove that RR's are really a very economic car to run........ so any suggestions on Sydney suppliers (also CV) would be great.
Thanks in advance.
roverfj1200
17th October 2007, 04:26 PM
Hi Folks, I'm having a bit of problems down stairs so to speak.
Firstly The Beast (92 Classic with ABS) is making a horrid clunking sound on full lock, especially in reverse...CV joint is probably the culprit.
So question 1. do you have to replace them both or just the crook one?
Q.2 how long can you drive on a broken CV joint without causing follow on problems and what problems will it cause?
Next problem is I need new front springs and shocks all round. Because of political pressure (SWMBO wants a toyota!) I must undertake said work as cheaply as possible so as to prove that RR's are really a very economic car to run........ so any suggestions on Sydney suppliers (also CV) would be great.
Thanks in advance.
Q.1 You may only replace the stuffed one.;)
Q.2 how long is a bit of string....:o
as for the rest I don't know...:D
Quiggers
17th October 2007, 04:33 PM
Because of political pressure (SWMBO wants a toyota!) I must undertake said work as cheaply as possible so as to prove that RR's are really a very economic car to run........ so any suggestions on Sydney suppliers (also CV) would be great.
Thanks in advance.
Get a quote for the suspension for your RR, then get a quote (for same) for whatever Toymota 4wd she's thinking of...
...you should win, hands down
Landy parts are not expensive, relative to other makes...
(find the price, genuine, for a maf for a Mazda 626, or the price for an alternator for a Ford Taurus).....:eek::eek::eek::eek:
GQ
JDNSW
17th October 2007, 04:36 PM
CV joints, unless broken by overload (rare) usually fail due to lack of lubrication (or unsuitable lubricant - e.g. mud). If the sphere is dry, total failure is likely fairly soon, but with adequate lubrication it is likely to keep going for a long while, although it won't get any quieter. Except to the extent that lubrication problems apply to both sides, there is no reason to expect the other one to be about to die.
Failure is unlikely to cause further damage, although it will involve lack of drive - not sure if that model had a diff lock, if it doesn't not much you can do except get towed, if diff lock, just engage it if the drive fails. There is some possibility of damage to the stub axle, so in this case I would not continue to drive it except to get home/to garage.
Sorry, can't help with Sydney suppliers.
John
Tank
17th October 2007, 04:39 PM
Get a quote for the suspension for your RR, then get a quote (for same) for whatever Toymota 4wd she's thinking of...
...you should win, hands down
Landy parts are not expensive, relative to other makes...
(find the price, genuine, for a maf for a Mazda 626, or the price for an alternator for a Ford Taurus).....:eek::eek::eek::eek:
GQ
I own a Ford Taurus, how much is an alternator, a replacement passenger side Mirror (glass only is $258, what a joke), not that I would buy an original from Ford Australia, much cheaper to repair the old alt. or get one sent from the USA for peanuts, Regards Frank.
Utemad
17th October 2007, 05:02 PM
Next problem is I need new front springs and shocks all round. Because of political pressure (SWMBO wants a toyota!) I must undertake said work as cheaply as possible so as to prove that RR's are really a very economic car to run........
Regardless of running costs either way, find out what an equivalent spec'd same year Toyota will cost. Bet it is an awful lot more than you could sell the Rangie for.
Running costs don't mean much if you have a $10k changeover cost factored in. Even worse if it turned out the Toyota cost more to maintain!
Bleedin Thumb
17th October 2007, 05:18 PM
Regardless of running costs either way, find out what an equivalent spec'd same year Toyota will cost. Bet it is an awful lot more than you could sell the Rangie for.
Running costs don't mean much if you have a $10k changeover cost factored in. Even worse if it turned out the Toyota cost more to maintain!
You know that and I know that...... but .... we are talking logic here and SWMBO seems to think that a $1000 a month lease for 5 years plus balloon payment makes more economic sense than spending say $5-7k a year maintaining the beast. Go figure! (admittedly it wouldn't take much to improve fuel economy)
I also can tell you what car I would rather be driving, and it ain't the toyota, but I digress.....
John, not sure if it has diff lock...if it does is there a manual switch? mine doesn't. either way it sounds like I should get to it quick smart or garage it until I get some time.
Thanks for the replies.
Any tricks I should be aware of when replacing the CV's, I've never tackle one before but the manual seems to describe a fairly simple operation.....Yeah Right!
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