Defender side steps/sliders at a pinch

[weeds]

before you ask for pics i forgot the camera today but good thing i have another side step to make so i will take some pics as i go....it seems like years ago that i ask clarkey about the finer points of his sliders and got the steel

before pic...well it the best that i have
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/08/1089.jpg

so far i have pulled the tjm front bar, side bars/steps off. i was amazed at the condition of the two bolts holding the passenger side of the front bar, they were slightly smaller 'why' and rusted about quarter of the way through. what i thought was going to be a quickish job took me the best part of two hours, nearly every bolt was rusted on along with having to grind a couple off

the end result of this morning work
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/45.jpg

this afternoon i knocked up one sidestep/slider, i just have to trim, fill the ends and give it a lick of paint.

progress pics
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/46.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/248.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/48.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/49.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/47.jpg
i am thinking about putting two high lift jack points..the round hole through the rhs type...along with some pipe tree deflectors..not sold on the ideas yet so i will sleep on them

TIP: i should have went 100mm x 50mm instead of 75mm x 50mm this would have meant the middle mount would not be hanging 5mm or so below the side step. the 75mm x 50mm work out perfect for the middle and rear mounting points, just cut to length and slip in

hopefully tomorrow i will have completed all the fabrication work on the side steps, minus the tree deflectors and high lift ponts, they will come later after i work out how to make the cradle for the pto winch..thats going to be a headache

more to follow tomorrow

feel free to comment good or bad points, another set of eyes is always handy

painted and fitted.....geez using hi-lift jacks give me the hebegeebees (how ever you spell that). i think that the third time i have used one, the other two times were with next to no load on the jack and was more just having a play
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/64.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/01/63.jpg

[sclarke]

Well done....

yep i used 100 x 50mm

i made the front had rear angles.

OK how do i explain this... ahh yes... overlay the original sill and then use it as the angle, but take the angle the whole 100mm or 75mm in your case...
ohh then i made the bottom bit 45 deg i think..

i'll post pix..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/234.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/235.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/236.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/237.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/10/238.jpg


Steve

[weeds]

added a couple of more pics to post 1

didn't have any 50mm x 3mm flat steel so the steps didn't get finished

steve...don't reckon i will go with the 45 cut on the bottom

picked up my winch today...well the front half, the pto is still connected to the donor car, gave it a clean up and pulled the wire rope off so that she is a little lighter

[weeds]

a couple of more pics added to the first post

[Jeff]

Would they look better in white?

Jeff

:rocket:

[sclarke]

Would they look better in white?

Jeff

:rocket:

No not normally, the lines of the doors on White sliders shows them up really bad, the door bottoms on Fenders are far from True or square or straight. The black or any other dark colour hides the poor english engineering.......

That is why alot of carsa have black plastic sills to hide the poor panel fit..

[100I]

Clarkie, I gather that's a previous car.

I noticed they were chassis mounted but also in contact with the body or very close.
Bad juju.
Vibes & road noise tranfer to the body, plus the chassis and the body usually twist at different rates when crossed up.

I'd pick one or the other Weeds, body mount or chassis mount, and allow some clearance.

An ex BIL years ago had a 'friend' install a 253 to his ol' Sunbird to liven it up, but he mounted it on RHS for engine mounts. Nasty nasty vibes, DOH!
Fixed it for him. Nice car.

[sclarke]

Clarkie, I gather that's a previous car.

I noticed they were chassis mounted but also in contact with the body or very close.
Bad juju.
Vibes & road noise tranfer to the body, plus the chassis and the body usually twist at different rates when crossed up.

I'd pick one or the other Weeds, body mount or chassis mount, and allow some clearance.

An ex BIL years ago had a 'friend' install a 253 to his ol' Sunbird to liven it up, but he mounted it on RHS for engine mounts. Nasty nasty vibes, DOH!
Fixed it for him. Nice car.

Ahh you know nothing about Defenders do you..... from a guy who loads up the roof of his Disco behond what is legal.... lol
They are solid mounted... not rubber like Rangie and Disco. So the Sliders on the Chassis can be body fit. As are all the "Manufactured" Sliders like Equipe and Scorpion and QT. I guess they know what they are doing.
As for putting a Engine on Solid mounts.... that is stupid... it would shear them in no time.

[100I]

Ahh you know nothing about Defenders do you..... from a guy who loads up the roof of his Disco behond what is legal.... lol
They are solid mounted... not rubber like Rangie and Disco. So the Sliders on the Chassis can be body fit. As are all the "Manufactured" Sliders like Equipe and Scorpion and QT. I guess they know what they are doing.
As for putting a Engine on Solid mounts.... that is stupid... it would shear them in no time.

Oh... No, I didn't know that, I've never been under one.
That would explain many of those infamous Defenderisms then. I will be baking a humble pie at 180deg for 45mins & topped with grated cheese:D
:bangin:.
My comments would still hold for almost any other car with a separate chassis on the road today.

The roof rack? Jumping the gun there;). Nothing heavy goes up top, just bulky gear as we all know how cavernous the rear of a D1 is.
If you're looking at the pic in the avatar, those are bike gearsacks which are bulky & stand up straight no matter whats in them.

[sclarke]

Oh... No, I didn't know that, I've never been under one.
That would explain many of those infamous Defenderisms then. I will be baking a humble pie at 180deg for 45mins & topped with grated cheese:D
:bangin:.
My comments would still hold for almost any other car with a separate chassis on the road today.

The roof rack? Jumping the gun there;). Nothing heavy goes up top, just bulky gear as we all know how cavernous the rear of a D1 is.
If you're looking at the pic in the avatar, those are bike gearsacks which are bulky & stand up straight no matter whats in them.

Thats ok, i was just firing up as you are right about hard mounting anything, but in the case of Defenders.. everything is Hard mounted.....
As for your roof rack, its the bulk also, weight might not kill it, but cross winds must be horrid??

[goingbush]

Im making a set of sliders pretty much along the lines of the sclarke sliders, exept with a 2" steampipe step on it similar to the mulgo step.

Question is do you guys that have made your own sliders support the aluminium panel that goes btwn the rear door & rear wheel flare?
it just seems to flop about a bit, or does that not cause a problem.

[weeds]

Im making a set of sliders pretty much along the lines of the sclarke sliders, exept with a 2" steampipe step on it similar to the mulgo step.

Question is do you guys that have made your own sliders support the aluminium panel that goes btwn the rear door & rear wheel flare?
it just seems to flop about a bit, or does that not cause a problem.

I don't think it's a problem.....from memory I did consider moving on of the bottom button that holds the flare on up 75mm or so.....will need to refresh my memory when I get home

[goingbush]

Heres my version of the sliders.
I was going to buy some but the cable locating business is a bit slow at the moment so thought I better make myself useful.

I used 100x50x2 RHS, plenty strong enough for the purpose, but not so stiff as to be stronger than what its bolted to. Steam pipe steps / rails

middle mount is a piece of unistrut - fits exactly.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/975.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/976.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/977.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/978.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/12/979.jpg

[lebanon]

measures please. [wink11]

[goingbush]

measures please. [wink11]

Im not too good with measurments, But you can't go wrong if you place the existing (removed) sill panel over the 100x50 RSJ & trace the end profiles.

Then use jack stands to hold it up into place and g-clamp the brackets on, then remove & weld up, No measuring needed.