EGR removal...

[Blknight.aus]

Ok not quite as promised Ive had a differnt idea and if it work this shoud let you roll up each post as required and print each post as a page so you can print the ones required (I still dont have PDF compilation capability that Im happy with they come out bigger than if I do them as a zipped HTML)

essentially im going to do it as one post per step so bare with me here.

[Blknight.aus]

First off clean the engine bay out and let it cool down.

you'll need the following tools

5mm 1/4inch drive allen key socket
8mm 1/4 inch drive socket
6 inch extention in 1/4 inch (mine doubles as a screw driver)
4 inch 1/4 inch extention
1/4 inch drive socket handle
flat head screw driver
phillips head screwdriver
Magnet on a stick (your more than likely going to drop one of the allen bolts)
torch (so you can find said bolt)
mirror on a stick (yep your going to use this to get it back)
gasket sealastic (optional but I used the blue stuff as it matched the colour of the silicon hoses, helps to locate the gaskets during assembly and a little on the threads works as a very light loctite)

about 1 hour in time

4752

this is the workhorse tools 99% of this work was done with these. the other tools are on the wing on the other side

[Blknight.aus]

Ok stage 1 remove the shroud from the top of the radiator, turn it upside down and place it behind the bull bar, it makes a good tool/parts tray. for the deefer its 4 philips head screws and comes off in about a minute then with the 5mm allenhead socket on the 4 inch extention and the ratchet remove the 2 bolts (allen head) that hold the pipe flange that joins onto the turbo side of the EGR cooler

4753
once youve gotten the 2 bolts out place them somewhere safe and dont drop them (they will wind up in the bottom half of the radiator shroud where you cant reach them by hand) in the process as they are aluminium and wont be picked up by the magnet. Now bend the pipe down off of the face of the cooler by about the length of the flange (as pictured above)
This lets you easily get the socket in to get the top bolt out of the exhaust manifold mounting flange. Mount the socket on both the extentions and you should just have room behind the radiator for the ratchet. once youve gotten this bolt out hang onto it your going to need this and its partner later.

4754

Then bend the pipe back up so the cooler flange is just above its normal position and using the same setup take out the bottom bolt, this is the one you will drop so be careful if you drop it you can easily see it by looking down behind the aircon pump and its a doddle to reach with a magnet on a stick. pull the pipe out and your done for this step

4755

[Blknight.aus]

ok this is easy, grab your exhaust blanking plate and give it a very light coat of sealstic

4756


from the non sealasticed side place in one of the allen bolts that you removed from the manifold side (the steel ones) touch a dobble of sealsitc onto the threads so the sealastic holds the bolt. Now press the blanking plate into position with that bolt in the topmost position, Its light enough that the tack of the sealstic will hold the plate in place while you attach the socket to the bolt which shouldnt have fallen out due to the sealastic on that. Use the socket to move the bolt into alignment then start the top bolt, only do it up a few turns at this time. (If you have nimbler hands than mine this might be easier to do without the bolt in the top But I fund that with the bolt in place I could rest it up alongside my fingers as a guide)Put a touch of the sealastic on the allen socket so it holds the next bolt in and align it and the plate then screw them up I went to NRT which is one click of my index knuckle on the ratchet, In reality you want about 6-10nm.
4757

and thats that done.

[Blknight.aus]

First up remove the 2 control lines to the EGR and the butterfly actuator and bend them back towards the back of the car, blank them up (the heads of 5mm blind rivets work well)
(see the second pic mine have flicked back up as I only tucked them away and hadnt blanked them at that point)

then using the 6 inch extention ratchet and allen key socket remove the bolts holding the cooler to EGR valve pipe flange I found working the ratchet from 6 oclock to about 9 gave the best action for both bolts coming in from under the intercooler-egr hose
4759

use the flat head to undo the hose clamp that mounts the intercooler to EGR hose and let it drop down towards the radiator DONT remove the hose yet. take the 8mm on the 4 inch extention and 8mm socket remove the top left and bottom right bolts (viewed from the front) that mount the EGR to th intake manifold, press the hose down and off then wedge it down to the right then remove the last 2 bolts top right then bottom left and the whole thing will spring up a little. Some tetrising and its out.
4758

you might want a mirror on a stick and a torch to get the bottom right bolt I got it by feel on the second go.

edit
The pics of the hose pushed into position for removing the last 2 bolts and the top bolt out did not work out
endedit.

[Blknight.aus]

Check the hose at this point for any signs of oil or crud coming out of the intercooler and the hose for damage /delamination/softening/cracking replace with silicon ones if needed.

4760

Saving the gasket from the EGR unit OR using a new one smear both sides with gasket sealastic and place it onto the bypass pipe

4749

then insert the pipe onto the intercooler hose and using the 4 bolts from the EGR unit and a bit of sealstic on the thread (locktite 271 would be better here) bolt the pipe up onto the manifold 6-10 Nm again) then tighten the hose clamp up.
4761
thats it apart from final clean up and re-installing the top radiator shroud.

[Blknight.aus]

OK so your done clean put the shroud back on and put all the tools away you should have 1 pipe, 4 5mm allen head bolts and the EGR left over...

"But," I here you say "youve left the cooler in place you're on drugs youve only done half the job"

True I have... But then I plan on cutting the exhaust manifold to cooler pipe in half and then brazing that up onto standard pipe fittings, mounting a small tank in the passangers side wing and turning it in to a water heater. Plus on mine removing it requires closing off or connecting together the coolant pipes that run to it. (if you dont have the cooler omit the steps relating to it)

for simplicities sake If its not leaking leave it in place untill you have to change the coolant for some other reason the TD5 can be a pig to bleed and I'll update this thread If turning it into a water heater doesnt work.

AS to using gasket slealastic on the exhaust manifold blanking plate + bolts Its not manadotry but most locktites that you can undo with normal tools also break under heat. you could use the heat proof ones but once you do there is no way you can remove them later.

and YES I've left the acutators hooked up at this point as I dont have an OBDII reader to identify fault codes. I'll unplug and remove them when Ive got access to one so that I can prove for myself that doing so doesnt cause fault codes. Even if they do They shouldnt be critical ones that fire the check engine light.

Kudos to Dullbird for the silicone hoses and landyfever for the kit.

[tombraider]

Great write up...

The ECU is NOT intelligent enough to know IF its working or not, only tells it to activate...

Disconnecting the unit will not affect the operation or generate a fault code.

[Blknight.aus]

I was expecting it to have a "the actuator unit is not connected" type fault indicator for when you melt the harness or similar....

but cool that'll get bumped into tomorrows lunch break or the weekend since it doesnt require a clean environment.

[TheEntertainer]

Guys,
The EGR blanking plate is the simple option, having a good look at all the web sites it appears that for the TD5 you can also buy the replacement part for the EGR unit. Is that the better option. Reason for my question is that the valve in theory will restrict air flow, so if you take that out and replace it with a unit with nothing inside, would that me better?
You can buy this from several guys in the UK, one of them is TD5alive.
Cheers
TheEntertainer

[Blknight.aus]

the valve does restrict airflow marginally if yours is not leaking past the EGR and isnt sticking the butterfly simply removing and plugging the vac control lines will give minor improvements.

I did experiement with mine way back when I first found out about this but found no appreciable difference to preformance when all was working as intended. I didnt pass comment on it then as I believe that if I can do something to help the environment that doesnt cost me $$, ponies or shorten the life of something then Im all for it.

Its when your EGR fouls and begins causing problems that your going to curse the designers of it.

Removing and cleaning the seats of the existing unit and leaving it in place but not connected is the cheap option and has the benifit of if you get pulled by the environazi's you can just claim that it was done by a mechanic as part of a fault finding exercise and hes just forgotten to hook it back up.

[peaches]

Noticed you made mention of crud in intercoller ,so
Can't quite figure out how to post new thread yet so will pose question here. I have just replaced the injector harness ( used thread on this forum to seal it up before fitting)to try and stop the oil in wiring loom trick and while waiting for silatic to set on tappet cover gasket i removed the intercooler hose that goes onto the egr unit to discover that it has on oily film in the hose - is that normal?. My Td5 has done 124,000km but previous owner had a second hand low km (60,000km) motor supplied and fitted by Landrover dealer in Melbourne after original motor suffered total disintegration (94,000km) after leaking injector diluted oil too much to do its job properly. When second hand motor was fitted they also put a new turbo on ( all receipts provided $11,000 job)

[Blknight.aus]

a little bit of oil is normal, mainly because it comes in via the crank case ventilation system...

Mine was near on squeaky clean at the 100K km service but I advise flushing it out on a regular basis to stop excess corruption from slowing down its preformance.

My flush method requires several goes at it so in the order that Idid it in

1st flush is dieso
2nd is hot soapy water
3rd is hot water
4th is warm air for a couple of hours to dry it all out properly.

If you have any signs of goop or oil duing the hot water rinse repeat the whole process till thats coming out clean.

I used a large tower pipe on the inlet and outlet of the cooler and blew bursts of compressed air through from the lower of the 2 outlets to agitate everything as much as possable. The bursts of air were applied for each seperate fluid type.

If your going to that much effort ID also recomend that you goto the silicone hoses afterwards as Im fiarly sure that the existing hoses wont appreciate what happens very much. You should also fit blanking covers to the turbo outlet and inlet manifold

[peaches]

Thanks Dave,

That puts me at ease as I thought any oil in there wasn't a good sign for the Turbo. I may go one step further as it would probably be advantageous to fit a bigger transmission cooler before we head off next year to tour WA ( auto towing an "A" van) ,so will do the intercooler while it is all pulled to bits . Are there any other mods you would recommend as a preventative measure for such a trip and is there an aftermarket tranny cooler that fits without too much hassle ?

Much appreciated
Paul

[Blknight.aus]

full cooling system service with all the tests.

upgrade the cooler and new oils/filters all the way around

bigger intercooler naff the egr.

have the wheel bearings packed properly with new seals and stakenuts (or go back to the double locknut setup) while the hubs are off have the rotors skimmed/replaced and put new pads in while thats happening new brake lines and then clean up the ABS sensors and tone rings on the back end.


thats should see you right for a start.

for the transmission cooler there is nothing to stop you mounting a second cooler in series with the first, just remeber that you will need to up the transmission oil level by the amount that the cooler can hold.

[peaches]

Thanks again Dave,

Didn't think I would have to do so much to make this vehicle durable . Have already replaced one rear hub as it was leaking oil , but this was a complete unit (do you mean I should have pressed the bearings out and re greased them before fitting the hub?)
Have already changed the oils and filters and planned on doing the EGR removal soon as well as the coolant but will leave that until I remove radiator as it is starting to show a weep in the bottom right hand corner and needs attention. Is the standard radiator up to the job or does it need to be upgraded?
Are there good and bad replacement intercoolers or will any aftemarket replacement do and who would be the best supplier to source these from ?

Regards
Paul

[Blknight.aus]

no by repacking the bearings i mean simply removing the hubs and making sure that a, the bearings are ok and B you have a decent quantity of high quality grease in them. When I did big reds 100,000km service between 2 bearings in a hub I had bearly enough to pack a swivel bearing let alone a pair of hub bearings.

nope the standard radiator is up to the job providing its in good nick and the cooling system is ok a full check of the system should be done while your replacing it..

I havent really looked into the intercoolers so far but theres a couple of blokes who deal with them in here and so far the reports are all good.

plan your trip out add 10% and then subract from that your current ks from last service. if that number is over your next service interval reservice before you go thats not compulsory but its what I do and then i work the normal service intervals off of the ks at which the service work got done.

[Kelly928]

I have just installed EGR bypass kit. Thought it was all done but no.

I am getting a loud buzzing sound from the modulator on the left (see pic). It does not buzz at idle but starts to buzz when I take it for a drive. If I stop and turn the engine off it goes away and comes back again when I drive.

I have removed the 2 vacuum lines (blue) completely and blanked both outlets off at the modulator (see pic). Note: I unplugged all lines from both modulators to remove the 2 blue vacuum lines. Not sure if this broke vacuum or something?

21499

I believe the 2 remaining green lines just go to filter box and 2 remaining yellow lines go to brake servo.

Not sure where I may have gone wrong help needed.

Also can the 2 remaining green lines be removed and the filter box end blanked?

Thanks
Kelly

[Kelly928]

The buzzing was too annoying so I deceided to unplug the power (green and black plugs) from both modulators. I left all the remaining vacuum plumbing for now so that brake servo vacuum is operational. Will probably remove modulators and EGR associated lines eventually when I replace the T piece brake servo line with the non-EGR version (i.e. no T-piece, part no. ANR 6916).

[Blknight.aus]

the buzzing noise is probably air leaking past the modulators, remove the suction lines from them and plug them with bal bearings or rivets.

[scott oz]

...(i.e. no T-piece, part no. ANR 6916).

Kelly928,

The part number you've quoted is that for the vacume line from the boster to the VAC pump?

And is this the original LR part number?

I've removed all the "plumbing" for the EGR including the heat exchanger. The only part I havent been able to replace and is currently 'plugged" is the vacume line with the "T".

Note mine is a TD5 2001 build Defender.

[Kelly928]

Scott oz,

Yup this is the Land Rover part no. ANR6916 for Right Hand Drive Fenders.

Its the vac line (with no T joint) between brake servo and vac pump.

21665

Link to LR Classic parts for your reference.

3944 - Landrover Parts (http://www.landroverclassicparts.com.au/Clip-vacuum-hose----------d107890-c19484-g.aspx)

Cheers
Kelly

[scott oz]

My ANR6916 arrived today. Will not fit a TD5 defender and has a "T" piece

I looked at the invoice and the part is actually quoted as RO-ANR6916. I think the RO has something to do with it being a LR part which had to be brought into OZ.

So still looking.

[Anderzander]

Scott

Did you ever find a pipe without the T ?

Steve

[scott oz]

Steve,

No still looking. Mine came from LR but because I quoted the part number they could only confirm it was a vacume line and being a special order not available in OZ I'm stuck with it.

[Anderzander]

I'm wondering what scope there is for just replacing this length with any other length of pipe? If its a snug fit onto the one way valve I don't see why it should work?

Series Land Rover's just use a basic push fit rubber vacuum pipe.

I also wondered if there was any good use I could make of a vacuum under there .... but drawn a blank there.

:confused:

[Tombie]

I'm still wondering why anyone would bother for the sake of a $0.02 rubber bung :p

[Rosco]

Apart from the fact it would be obvious to someone who knew what to look for, is there any reason why you could not just remove the pipe from the manifold and put a blanking plate to each end ??

[scott oz]

The simplest way is just to balank off the maifold end, disconnect/plug the little hoses and plug the vacume line

However that leaves the valve restricting the air flow. Also depending on the EGR system a lot of other now surplus plumbing. over all leaves a lot of **** in there doing nothing.

I've taken all the little pipes off removed modules and replumbed the coolant pipes to the previous model which didn't have the water cooler.

The only thing I haven't done is removed the wire's to the ECU.

The idea of replacing the vacume line is it "finishes" the job and uses all standard parts. Overkill but so what.

[Kelly928]

Scott

I ended up just plugging the T-piece with a short length of breather tubing (or irrigation tubing) and an end plug.

25779

Kelly

[Anderzander]

What about just replacing the pipe with something like this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6mm-BLACK-SILICONE-VACUUM-HOSE-TUBING-RADIATOR-AIR-PIPE-/250394844420?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a4cb21d04#ht_3003wt_725)

I think most of the problems with the little rubber bungs that come with the kits is that they perish and leak - and that's not good for the brake circuit.

[Rosco]

Dave .... or anyone ...

I need your wizardry. What happens when the bottom bolt at about 8:30 o'clock in the plate onto the manifold won't come out because the internal hex is stuffed .... :soapbox::soapbox::soapbox::soapbox::angrylock::(

[slug_burner]

get next size hex key and hammer it into the head.

if you can apply heat the expansion may result in breaking the grip.

after that you might have to call the professionals

[Blknight.aus]

reply sent in PM and copied and pasted to here

depends on what youve got access to.

I usually have at it with the #2 easy out from my easy out kit after.

you can try removing the top bolt, then knocking the blanking plate round anti clockwise, spraying it with wd4- then locking on a set of small vice grips.

hammering in the next size up torqz bit sometimes works.

putting a bolt into it then giving it a weld with a stick welder (youd want to be good)

thats the first round of semi friendly solutions

[Rosco]

Had a calming beer ... now to get nasty with the mongrel bastard of a thing :twisted:

[Tombie]

What about just replacing the pipe with something like this (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6mm-BLACK-SILICONE-VACUUM-HOSE-TUBING-RADIATOR-AIR-PIPE-/250394844420?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a4cb21d04#ht_3003wt_725)

I think most of the problems with the little rubber bungs that come with the kits is that they perish and leak - and that's not good for the brake circuit.

Hence why one should use EPDM or Silicone caps

[Rosco]

Ah

The joys of landies ...........:toilet:
Have to improve access to the mongrel thing .........

Remove top radiator hose and heater pipe from head ... loose about 1 litre of coolant:mad: I'll worry about bleeding it later ... :angel:

Try to remove heat shield from over turbo ... of course the bolt into the turbo housing through the hole at the back won't budge :mad::mad:

Drill out side rivets to said bracket :). Can't get drill to rear 2 rivets :mad:.
Out with the 4" grinder and carefully remove heads of rivets ... almost carefully, not too much damage to shield in vicinity of rivet heads :(

Ahh .. now I have a clear go at the offending bracket bolt. No bloody way it's going to come out .. rounded the head nicely :soapbox:

Finally tap EGR manifold flange to side so I have more room .. still can't move the bludger ... :wallbash::BigCry::Thump:

I'm off to drown my sorrows....:twobeers:E2.
A mate's dropping round in the morning with a kit of bolt removal bizzos so hopefully better luck tomorrow.

Meanwhile the mongrel thing in all it's unrunable glory is blocking the driveway so I can't get the other vehicle out ... :angrylock:

[awabbit6]

I had my exhaust manifold off when I did mine (while replacing the head gasket). I had the same problem but a pair of vise grips got it. With the manifold off the was plenty of room to get onto the allen bolt. They had to be real tight to get enough grip to turn it.

Is removing the exhaust manifold an option for you? I'm sure you've spent enough time on it that you could have had the manifold off by now.

[Rosco]

Is removing the exhaust manifold an option for you? I'm sure you've spent enough time on it that you could have had the manifold off by now.


That's my next option .... if tomorrow's efforts don't bear fruit.

I'm afeared if I go down that road, trusting my luck I'll snap a couple of manifild studs ..:(

[Blknight.aus]

not a chance, steel studs into an ally head....

[Rosco]

Thanks cobber ... at least that removes one worry ..;):D

[Tombie]

not a chance, steel studs into an ally head....

Seen a few mate!

Lara did it during a manifold warp repair... Broke 2 in the head.

Mr Thread (serious it's his business name) came out and removed them for me.

[Blknight.aus]

We've got a couple of similar mobs floating around the brissy area,

In all the years I've been spannering, that I recall I've never snapped a stud off trying to remove it from an alloy housing. I've snapped a few smaller ones and longer ones doing them up and had endless fun trying to get some out after the threads stripped out in the ally letting it spin.

Add that to the books then....

[Rosco]

The saga has finally come to an end .........

Mate called round this morning with his kit and bingo .. in no time flat we'd removed the offending bolt. You bewdy ... fit the blanking plate, finish it all off, puting all the bits back in the right place. 2 celebratory beers and cobber's off on his merry way.

OK .. time for a quick squirt around the burbs to see if all is goodo.

Whoa ... can hear exhaust leaking so back home for a squiz and a poke around with a long screw driver. Sure enough ... it's leaking on the side where the first bolt came out easy (but didn't go back in all that smoothly). I can move the gasket so obviously not tight enough.

Out with the sockets to give it a little tweak ................ you guessed it .. PING .. off comes the head of the bolt :eek2::Thump:.

On the phone to Mr Thread Fixit (anon name for the purposes of the exercise, but a top bloke) and a lazy $100 cash later he's got it all fixed up smick and proper.

Go for another run around the burbs and all is well ... almost. Stopped at some lights and when I take off I hear this sound like something might have fallen off ... treat it with ignore and continue :burnrubber:.

Get back home and proceed to pack all my tools away ... no sign of my largest screw driver ... :confused:.

Now I know what the noise was ... :cry:

[Anderzander]

Nightmare!

I've done a test-drive round the block - and got back to find a hammer and two spanners still on top of the wing.

Scott:

Maybe one of these (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Barbed-Connector-for-5mm-Vacuum-Hose-dump-valve-washer_W0QQitemZ270588141500QQcategoryZ72205QQcmdZ ViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%2 6itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D2%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid% 3D8004915974943476197#ht_1747wt_910) would be the best option to get the factory look you want without replacing the pipe.

[Anderzander]

I just rounded the hex on the lower bolt on mine .....

[Rosco]

I just rounded the hex on the lower bolt on mine .....

I feel your pain cobber ....

[Tombie]

I feel your pain cobber ....

At least none of you have broken your finger like when I did the install :o

Then you'd feel pain....

That was a lesson learnt!

[Blknight.aus]

At least none of you have broken your finger like when I did the install

you cant leave that one hanging, If I'd said it there'd be a flood of requests for a chapter on it.

spill the beans, how'd you manage that?

[Anderzander]

Problem fixed now. It was the bottom of the two allen bolts that fit into the exhaust manifold that turned out to have a head made of cheese…

The allen bit just turned and rounded it out, so I tapped in a torx bit, and that just rounded it out that bit more. So I tapped in the next size and of course that rounded too.

I did think about cutting the pipe to improve access and see if I could get a pair of grips on it - but then I'd be committed to getting it done and I needed the truck for work the next day.

So I used a hack saw blade and started to cut a slot into the head - I had about 5-10mm of movement - so I did that until it was becoming mental torture and packed in for the night. I figured I'd drive it up to my friends, cut the pipe off, and try to weld a bolt onto the head.

Next morning I thought I'd have another go with the hack saw blade and realised I'd made half decent progress the night before. So I tapped in a screwdriver bit and turned the ratchet … and it started to round off the head.

Oops - running out of options. So I knocked in the largest scredriver bit I had - started to turn - it started to round … so I reveresed it and tightened it up a bit and then BINGO - it came un-done.

[Benny_IIA]

reply sent in PM and copied and pasted to here

depends on what youve got access to.

I usually have at it with the #2 easy out from my easy out kit after.

you can try removing the top bolt, then knocking the blanking plate round anti clockwise, spraying it with wd4- then locking on a set of small vice grips.

hammering in the next size up torqz bit sometimes works.

putting a bolt into it then giving it a weld with a stick welder (youd want to be good)

thats the first round of semi friendly solutions



I did this and snapped the easy out in the manifold.:bangin:

I ended up just drilling it out and using a nut and bolt (heat proof lock nut).

[adonuff]

Thanks Dave
I used this thread to remove my EGR valve and it went really well. I left all of the electrics in place and just blanked of the two vac lines. We checked for faults with a Nanocom and no faults logged.

The vehicle actually goes a little better accellarates quicker and seems to hold top gear for a bit longer up hill. The valve was full of thick black sludge which surprised me for a low milage engine.

I also left the cooler in place if you ever manage to turn it into something useful hope you put up a post

[Koukandowie Brangus]

Hey guys, was looking to finally finish removing my egr electrics today (pulled the valve a year ago) when i noticed that it was a little different to the manual. Firstly it says that the egr modulator had to be mounted vertically, now mine was definately mounted horizontally and also it said (being a pre eu3 model) that it would have an inline filter. This was also not the case as the atmosphere line ran back to the airbox. so i just pulled it all out and am now going back with the nanocom to see if i have any fault code issues. ( had some preexisting issues and was hoping this would fix it but not getting my hopes up)

Has anyone else noticed their egr systems being a cross between the two systems?? or did i just get a friday afternoon special??

regards

[applemac]

Thanks Dave
I used this thread to remove my EGR valve and it went really well. I left all of the electrics in place and just blanked of the two vac lines. We checked for faults with a Nanocom and no faults logged.

The vehicle actually goes a little better accellarates quicker and seems to hold top gear for a bit longer up hill. The valve was full of thick black sludge which surprised me for a low milage engine.

I also left the cooler in place if you ever manage to turn it into something useful hope you put up a post

I did exactly the same. Just made sure the EGR was closed before removing the vacuum lines and blocked them with some self tapping screws, later blocked the cooler at the entrance just to avoid being under continuous pressure.
I reckon the power gain is about one gear and it's now constant and starts earlier. My EGR was getting stuck and I was loosing power when I needed it.
I now use 4th gear uphill when I needed 3rd etc. It really made a big difference.

[Mudguard]

ok this is easy, grab your exhaust blanking plate and give it a very light coat of sealstic

4756


from the non sealasticed side place in one of the allen bolts that you removed from the manifold side (the steel ones) touch a dobble of sealsitc onto the threads so the sealastic holds the bolt. Now press the blanking plate into position with that bolt in the topmost position, Its light enough that the tack of the sealstic will hold the plate in place while you attach the socket to the bolt which shouldnt have fallen out due to the sealastic on that. Use the socket to move the bolt into alignment then start the top bolt, only do it up a few turns at this time. (If you have nimbler hands than mine this might be easier to do without the bolt in the top But I fund that with the bolt in place I could rest it up alongside my fingers as a guide)Put a touch of the sealastic on the allen socket so it holds the next bolt in and align it and the plate then screw them up I went to NRT which is one click of my index knuckle on the ratchet, In reality you want about 6-10nm.
4757

and thats that done.

Hey!!!! Seen a few tools colour coded like that before.... might even have one or two myself... You spent any time at a certain base near the swich...I spent 7 years there. :D

[Blknight.aus]

theres a pretty good chance Im currently mid sentence and looking at parole.

[Benz]

I'm half way through egr removal and just wanted to ask a few Qs.

doing it on a 2000 td5 130 defender

is it normal to find so much black sticky crud inside the inlet manifold? mine seems to have heaps of the horrible stuff in there... have taken the inlet manifold off for cleaning. there is also some kind of sensor on the manifold this is caked in black crud. what is it? should i clean it? and is there a special cleaning agent i should use

thanks guys =D

[Blknight.aus]

yep, that black soot is part of the reason why we do the mod. stopping it promotes engine life, partly because it stops your engine ingesting grinding paste and partly because it keeps the MAP (manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor from fouling and having that working properly keeps the ECU correctly informed as to whats going on in the engine and therefore it sends the correct signals to the injectors for fueling.

you can clean them I typically use CRC contact cleaner or a residual free electrical cleaner. Dont be tempted to spray it straight onto the face that normally sits inside the manifold as the force of the cleaning fluid going into the port can damage the sensor thats inside.

have someone check your MAP readings pre and post cleaning, if the number goes wild then its cactus and will near replacing.

[OffTrack]

As Scott OZ and others have found the part number ANR6916 for the vacuum hose minus T join given by TD5Alive and others is incorrect.

Checking on Microcat it looks like the correct part for the Discovery TD5 is SQB000280.

ANR6916 is "Hose assembly brake vacuum, 5 cylinder diesel, RHD"
SQB000280 is "Hose assembly brake vacuum, less exhaust gas recirculation system, 5 cylinder diesel, RHD"

[scott oz]

Offtrack,

Just checked and have been told that the part number SQB000280 is for the Disco Series 2. Do you know if this will fit the Defender? thanks

[OffTrack]

Offtrack,

Just checked and have been told that the part number SQB000280 is for the Disco Series 2. Do you know if this will fit the Defender? thanks

The part no. TD5Alive and others quote is a Discovery hose with T-Fitting. SQB000280 is the same vacuum pump to brake booster hose minus the T-fitting for EGR. If the ANR6916 hose didn't fit between booster and vac pump on your Defender then SQB000280 is unlikely to fit.

cheers
Paul

[scott oz]

Offtrack - Thanks

The hunt still goes on for the vacuum pump to booster (no "T" piece for EGR) pipe for the TD5 Defender.

[gconran]

This thread I found on another site offers the same outcome but with a slightly different kit.

Both of these will help me when I finally get aroudn to doing this mod!!

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php'showtopic=25198

[scott oz]

gconron,

Thanks for the post and reading the thread on the other site it looks like the manufacture of the vacuum pipe for the defender (minus the T) is out of business. So looks like getting a replacement without the "T" for the defender is highly unlikely.:(

[davidkench]

Is there any reason that I cannot completely remove the EGR Modulator and all EGR Vacuum Tubing and apply a rubber blanking plug to the T-piece in the Brake-Servo tubing to maintain the integrity of the braking system?

[aasiempre]

Thinking of doing the EGR removal on my TD5, 2002, Deefer but have seen mixed advice.

Was going to buy this kit, as it looks alright: NEW Driven 2 Automotive Land Rover TD5 EGR Full Removal KIT Stunning ON Sale | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161005636233?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

My main point of confusion is that the above listing has this included:
2x Rubber EGR Solenoid Blanking Plugs (the EGR is ECU vacuum controlled, these plugs will make the ECU think that the EGR is still there so no fault codes or dashboard engine management warning lights appear)


The TD5 Alive guide just says to completely remove them so the system doesn't attempt to operate the EGR, as thus:

It is recommended that you disconnect the electrical connector(s) from the EGR modulator(s), to prevent vacuum from being applied to the now
redundant vac hose(s). The engine management will then sense there is no EGR system fitted, so will disable any attempts of EGR operation. The
modulator(s) are located on the right hand inner wing. Early models have just one, and later (EU3) models have two. Unplug the electrical
connectors only from the modulators. Leave all vac pipes in situ, attached to the modulators and brake servo pipe! This is for your safety, as
the brake assistance could be severely compromised by incorrect or inadequate fittings.

http://www.alivetuning.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/EGR-bypass-kit.pdf

What have you all done? Have you blanked the connection so it thinks its there, or just unplugged it?

[Disco Muppet]

I completely removed my entire EGR system, wiring and all, and simply used a single blank at the vac line T piece.
It's what I'd recommend :)

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[aasiempre]

So, I quizzed the Ebay company about it and this is the response I got:


Hi there,

our kit was developed many years ago and has been used worldwide in very large volume without issue.

The purpose to trick the ECU is not to make the vehicle act like it had an EGR on it, the purpose is to stop the engine management light coming on thinking there is a problem with the EGR (as its no longer working as its not there!)

Thoughts?

[Outback 1]

I removed the vac hoses and egr and just used the 2 blanking plugs suppled with the kit one on each solenoid wiring still connected

Sent from my SM-G900F using AULRO mobile app

[singlecell]

I first left the EGR solenoids in and blanked them off. After a while one of them started to randomly vibrate so hard you could feel it in the car while driving. So I have removed them all together now. Never had an issue with it or have an error code displayed.

[CU55TM Disco]

Removed all solenoids from my 03 d2a. No codes, no lights, no problem.
Think I removed the T piece and replaced with a joiner instead of the blanks. Removed the associated hoses.