View Full Version : Watch for my slow series1 rebuild
landyfromanuthaland
23rd October 2007, 02:59 PM
I am tackling my 1951 80 very shortly and I will photo and document every step of the job from strip down to roll out, stay tuned series1 fans.
PS I need two S1 doors? and tailgate.?
Andy
Lotz-A-Landies
23rd October 2007, 03:54 PM
I am tackling my 1951 80 very shortly and I will photo and document every step of the job from strip down to roll out, stay tuned series1 fans.
PS I need two S1 doors? and tailgate.?
Andy
Andy
Good 80" doors and tailgates are very few and far between. You either have to have good aluminium welding skills or skills making up some brackets. I would like to say you are in the right town to get some reproduction doors/tailgate made. Only trouble is getting him to hold off on some other interests he has and make some doors. Mine will be ready for the Land Rover 75th anniversary and I only ordered them a couple of years ago? :(:(:(
Diana
landyfromanuthaland
23rd October 2007, 04:58 PM
I took a 1941 ford ute that had been sitting since 1947 in a paddock, it was a heap and I mean heap, most people said forget it, I had her up and running 3 months, resprayed and camoflaged by 5 months, then spent 12 months looking for rare ex army bits to finish the job, mind u I was lighter, and more determined then I am these days, this is purely a fun job on the 80, am looking forward to taking my time and plodding along,
Are doors that hard to find? bugger! on nose to the floor and I will find them somewhere, was a pair on ebay awhile ago for 40bux, should have grabbed them.
landyfromanuthaland
23rd October 2007, 04:59 PM
How about doors ala 42 willys jeep style, canvas!
Lotz-A-Landies
23rd October 2007, 05:13 PM
Are doors that hard to find? bugger! on nose to the floor and I will find them somewhere, was a pair on ebay awhile ago for 40bux, should have grabbed them.
Finding doors is not the problem, finding good doors is the problem.
80" doors have no steel frame like subsequent models so all the stress is absorbed within the 90 degree bends of the 1.2mm spot welded aluminium alloy which makes up the door. Fatigue cracks are very common, most usually in the mounting for the lock mechanism and also the corners. The top rear corner being the bigest problem. Your 1951 at least should have the reinforcing plate in the rear top corner.
Sometimes it is easiest to reproduce a new door than try to repair all the cracks and failed spot welds.
Diana
shorty943
29th October 2007, 08:11 PM
Look forward to it, I've started on my S3 now.
I have so much to upgrade for the diesel engine, I am replacing the total wiring loom, the braking system, the whole show, from the Daihatsu Delta truck, is now going into the Landy. Even the dashboard, is in for a replacement make over.:D
I have to, there is no room in the Landy "dash" for all the "modern" electrics. From a Jap truck, 2 years older than the Landy.:(
Lotz-A-Landies
29th October 2007, 08:30 PM
Look forward to it, I've started on my S3 now.
I have so much to upgrade for the diesel engine, I am replacing the total wiring loom, the braking system, the whole show, from the Daihatsu Delta truck, is now going into the Landy. Even the dashboard, is in for a replacement make over.:D
I have to, there is no room in the Landy "dash" for all the "modern" electrics. From a Jap truck, 2 years older than the Landy.:(
Shorty
Perhaps I should post this in your own thread https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/01/1292.jpg however when I worked on a Daihatsu F20 4WD eons ago the wiring was unusual. For example the lights had an active side direct to the positive terminal and all the switching was on the negative side. i.e. on the earth side. Are the Daihatsu Delta's similar or are they regularly wired?
Diana
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