S3 change

[shorty943]

Yay, at last, the time is nigh.

But first the rust.

The engine and gearbox won't be a problem.

Even the Landy speedo, sits quite well, in her new dashboard. Don't you think?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Yay, at last, the time is nigh.

But first the rust.
:confused::confused::confused::confused:
Diana

[shorty943]

:confused::confused::confused::confused:
Diana

That photo of the left top of the firewall is the only rust she shows. Not so bad really.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ah Hah - now that makes much more sense with the pics.

Interesting project! What will you do for a transfer box?
Adapting the gear linkage will be interesting?
I notice that the dash is from a forward control, Daihatsu I presume. Can I ask about the pedal arrangement for the brakes. Does it do a 90 degree direction change before the MasterVac and could you take some pics?

Cheers
Diana

[shorty943]

Ah Hah - now that makes much more sense with the pics.

Interesting project! What will you do for a transfer box?
Adapting the gear linkage will be interesting?
I notice that the dash is from a forward control, Daihatsu I presume. Can I ask about the pedal arrangement for the brakes. Does it do a 90 degree direction change before the MasterVac and could you take some pics?

Cheers
Diana

1. keeping the standard t\case. Remove parking brake from rear of truck gearbox. Make adapter to fit truck box into Landy transfer case. That way I still keep stock final drive and get a 5 speed over-drive gearbox.

2. Too simple. Make brackets to take the truck shifter system. Already removed and test fitted to the Landy, it'll work. Just have to raise the floor some is all.

3. Yes. The firewall in way of the pedal box will need to be modified. The truck Vac booster is reversed, but, can be fitted in the Landy in a similar way to standard.

And, yep, pics will be taken. From tear down to test drive. Just like the project in completion now.
A 36 foot, MAN passenger bus, refitted as a commercial kitchen.

I'm glad I'm retired. I'd never have the time to do this and work to.:twisted:

[Lotz-A-Landies]

3. Yes. The firewall in way of the pedal box will need to be modified. The truck Vac booster is reversed, but, can be fitted in the Landy in a similar way to standard.

Why not use the standard S3-6cyl/V8 pedal box with it's attached MasterVac and dual circuit master cylinder? Much easier and less trouble with the engineering certification!

Diana

Addit: You can then send me the 90 degree pedal box so I can use it on my S2B Forward Control project! :) :)

[shorty943]

Why not use the standard S3-6cyl/V8 pedal box with it's attached MasterVac and dual circuit master cylinder? Much easier and less trouble with the engineering certification!

Diana

Addit: You can then send me the 90 degree pedal box so I can use it on my S2B Forward Control project! :) :)

Ah, now the grift comes in.:D

It's actually a 180 degree fit in the truck, it mounts onto a heavy duty bracket that also holds the steering column in place under the lower dash. I'm just going to reverse it to fit into the series 3 the Landy way around.:cool:
So the only real engineering changes will be a bracket or 2 and a push rod. I intend no structural changes, I've had enough of that little game for a while.:mad:

If I'm a really good boy, and the fairies are pleased with me, the heavy duty brake booster brackets from my old LWB F100, should do the job of converting the booster mounts for me.:angel:

Try it yourself, any truck wreckers, it only takes 4 bolts to undo, and 3 cuts to hydraulic lines with pliers.
You end up with the complete brake and clutch pedal assembly, brake and clutch master cylinders, a huge big bugger brake booster, twice the size of the Landy version, and the remote mounted hydraulic reservoir.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ah, now the grift comes in.:D

It's actually a 180 degree fit in the truck, it mounts onto a heavy duty bracket that also holds the steering column in place under the lower dash. I'm just going to reverse it to fit into the series 3 the Landy way around.:cool:
So the only real engineering changes will be a bracket or 2 and a push rod. I intend no structural changes, I've had enough of that little game for a while.:mad:

Try it yourself, any truck wreckers, it only takes 4 bolts to undo, and 3 cuts to hydraulic lines with pliers.
You end up with the complete brake and clutch pedal assembly, brake and clutch master cylinders, a huge big bugger brake booster, twice the size of the Landy version, and the remote mounted hydraulic reservoir.
Thanks Shorty

On my Suffix G Series 2a I used the MasterVac off a drum brake F100 (actually the same as the one on a drum brake LC Torana - go figure!) Once set up properly the brakes were terrific. Yes you are correct the booster is about twice the size of the LandRover unit.

The problem with the Forward Control is that there is not sufficient room between the front of the firewall and the front of the vehicle. I looked at the MasterVac on a Toyota Coaster bus (and from the book Toyota Dyna is the same and they rotate the mastervac through 90 degrees. The problem is that it is to the right which is the wrong way for the FC.

Will look at the wreckers.

Diana

[shorty943]

That's right, today she was turned around in the shed, the entire front end is off. Hopefully the engine comes out this weekend.
(Don't they look funny, with no clothes on?)

The truck cabin is off, and the engine almost ready to lift out.

The new dashboard is taking shape.

The truck seats will be re-upholstered, they, are going back into the Landy. As is the very nice hood lining. Nice chocky brown to go with the funny yellow brown she is painted.
The new seats will actually sit a little higher and further back than standard, giving a new storage space between the original Landy seat box and the truck seat mounts.
But that is good because the truck pedal assembly and heater box need some room.

My only problem so far will be the truck fuel tank. It's too long to fit where the Landy carries hers.

A cut, and shut, appears necessary.

And to top it off, I am thinking of removing the side panels above the tub, make up stanchions to hold the roof in the correct place, fit the rear cabin wall from the truck cabin, some siding and a floor. And make a "sleaper cab" behind the driver's cab, and have a covered "ute back. Not real big maybe, but.

Bigger than a Suzuki Mighty boy.:twisted::p:D

[shorty943]

Oops, that'll be a problem. Didn't see that coming.
New brake booster and clutch, don't get on with Landy steering box.

Solution? Remove Land Rover steering gear:o, fabricate mountings, fit Toyota SR-5 steering box to front right chassis rail:(, use Toyota tie rod end, and Holden shafts:eek: and connector uni's, bolt up to Daihatsu:) truck steering column.:cool:

Yep that'll work. All built to comply with ADR 30, just not by the same company.:twisted:

And, the Toyota steering box Pitman Arm connects directly to the original steering drag link, using the Toyota tie rod, no more multiple slack ball joints.
The Daihatsu steering column will now pass through closer to the floor than the original, (giving room for the larger brake booster), and it turns the steering box using a connecting shaft a pair of soft uni joints like a rack and pinion set up.

I suppose the Toyota stuff will be strong enough, considering what happened to my ball joint removing tool (it's been Forked apart) trying to get a second hand unit off for testing.

[Dinty]

G'day All, I fitted a Diahatsu 2.8lt engine to a Series 3 109 that I had about 18 years ago, I made my own adaptor plate and engine mounts, kept the original Land Rover transmission, fitted boosted brake assembly from a late model Series 3, it served me well till I bought a 110 AFAIK it's still going. It took me about 6 weeks from go to whoa, anyway cheers and good luck with your venture, Dennis:wasntme:

[shorty943]

Thank's Denis.

It's proving to be fun.:) Oops, this won't fit, with that there, and so on.

But, as an Engineer Officer I served under once said,
"if you don't have what you need, Make a bastard son, Make a bastard".

LtCmdr Jack (Makers) Markham, I have thanked you many times for your wise advice.

It sure is proving handy at the moment.:twisted:

[Dinty]

G'day All, He sounds just like me, if you can't get it make it LOL you soon learn that when you start making live steam model locomotives in 5" guage, cheers Dennis:wasntme:
PS I did draw my adaptor plate in full size back then, I'm reasonably conversant with Tech/drawing, still have my Tee square that I made back in 1962, although I had to borrow a very large T/square and board to do that particular job, only yesterday I had to resort to the drawing board again with my current project, drawing the item full size against the full sized background to check the fit etc and it worked :D;).

[shorty943]

Don't you just love it when that happens.:cool:

A couple more pics.:D Isn't it always the way?
The more you pull off for a quick clean up, the more you find you had to remove anyway.

I'm still in dis-belief, at the thickness of the plastic in the left door:o.
It's a tiny little scratch, the arrowed line is the actual crack line in the paint.
Of course I had to pick at it didn't I.:angel: BUT.
I can fix that.:D

THEN.

Some silly bugger, put a Land Rover fuel tank bracket, right in the middle of where I want to put my ADR30 diesel tank.:(
Again, no problems. With a little help from my good buddy, the "red handled door stop", I can make it fit.:twisted:

I think I'll have to find a hybrid name for it. There doesn't seem to be a lot of Land Rover bits going back inside the Land Rover shell.:D

[shorty943]

Slowly she begins to change shape.

Now there is a "Ruddy Great 'ole" in my firewall.


Mind you I am fitting a somewhat more powerful braking system with a somewhat larger booster.

But, it does fit, and there is room to move things around more yet.

And of course, this is all first fit, just to jiggle it around to fit.

[shorty943]

Sometimes one must make do.

If you can't get access to a metal folder, do next best.
Ask a mate to stand on it for you.

This is 2.5 mm steel checker plate, hand bent, (big hammer and a crow bar:twisted:) to form the fuel tank protective cell. This will be mig welded between the outriggers on the chassis left side, rubber lined, then the fuel tank lowered into place and strapped down.
With the added bonus, off giving me a place to bolt the, modified F100 side steps.

(This checker plate, is going under all the "soft" bits.)

In order that the tank does not protrude below chassis level.
The left side foot well will need to be raised about 3 inches\75 mm, to clear all the doo-dads, and the pump, on the tank top.
I don't have a problem with that, I don't sit that side, and the dog has shorter legs than mine.:D
And I have nice, shiny, 3.something mm, "Ally" checker plate set aside for that little job.