TD5 vibration 2500-3500 rpm

[Graeme]

In attempting to find the reason for a cabin drone from just over 100kph in my manual Disco that's been there for a long time, if not forever, I discovered that between approx 2500 and 3500rpm the engine vibrates so much that it sounds as though its about to fly apart, although by 4000rpm its smooth again. With the accoustic cover removed the vibration and noise is only slightly reduced. The harmonic balancer appears not to be jumping about at all. The engine has always seemed harsh as it gets near 3000rpm and worst at about 3500rpm but I've not done a stationary test before.
The clutch has always been a bit suspect, with various attempts to get it looked at whilst under warranty, but to no avail, so I'm wondering if the dual mass flywheel has a problem.
The noise at 110kph on the freeway makes me want to slow to 100 to avoid it, although its not there on overrun. It is worse when the engine is working harder.

Does this vibration and noise sound normal for the TD5? This is my 2nd TD5 and I cannot imagine buying this 2nd one if the 1st was like this. This one has done 140,000kms, the previous 180,000kms.

I've looked at previous posts but cannot see references to vibrations at higher revs.

TIA,
Graeme

[Scouse]

It seems strange that removing the acoustic cover would reduce your problem.

The flexible joint in the exhaust downpipe has been known to cause a drone/rattle if it's on it's last legs.

Propshafts can be a problem, especially the front DC joint.

It would be rare for the flywheel to have a problem at those sort of Km - I haven't heard of one anyway.

[Greylandy]

Was the car serviced recently or did you notice the noise after work was done to the engine?

Check that the exhaust manifold heat shield is tightened properly, especially the bolt at the back close to the air filter box. Also, check that the air inlet hose is not vibrating against anything. Both of these have caused vibrating noises on mine before.

[Redback]

In attempting to find the reason for a cabin drone from just over 100kph in my manual Disco that's been there for a long time, if not forever, I discovered that between approx 2500 and 3500rpm the engine vibrates so much that it sounds as though its about to fly apart, although by 4000rpm its smooth again. With the accoustic cover removed the vibration and noise is only slightly reduced. The harmonic balancer appears not to be jumping about at all. The engine has always seemed harsh as it gets near 3000rpm and worst at about 3500rpm but I've not done a stationary test before.
The clutch has always been a bit suspect, with various attempts to get it looked at whilst under warranty, but to no avail, so I'm wondering if the dual mass flywheel has a problem.
The noise at 110kph on the freeway makes me want to slow to 100 to avoid it, although its not there on overrun. It is worse when the engine is working harder.

Does this vibration and noise sound normal for the TD5? This is my 2nd TD5 and I cannot imagine buying this 2nd one if the 1st was like this. This one has done 140,000kms, the previous 180,000kms.

I've looked at previous posts but cannot see references to vibrations at higher revs.

TIA,
Graeme

Double cardan joint front shaft, have it checked, it was my vibration problem, the text in bold is what swayed me.

My symtoms were the same:(

Baz.

[Graeme]

Thanks for the replies.

Removing the cover makes 1 less item to vibrate, so a little less noise.

I'll have to properly check the exhaust flexible joint, as I've only given it a glance to date.

The vibration and noise is there with the vehicle at stand-still, but the DC is OK anyway. I keep a regular check on my rebuild. The noise is engine revs related - its there at the same rev range in every gear.

The noise has been there for ages, but I don't know if its getting worse or not. I do my own servicing.

The clip on the LHS of the block that holds the clutch pipe has broken, so the pipe could be rattling. But its not a little rattle, rather a very deep and heavy noise.

The problem still exists with the fan removed, a/c off and ACE without pressure (at stand-still).

It could be an injector with a problem, although there's no discernable performance problem, being chipped etc - it still goes like a rocket.

Thanks again
Graeme

[Scouse]

As you can reproduce it without driving, drop the serpentine belt off & give it a try then - just to eliminate the ancilliaries.

[tracker]

I had vibration and noises at 2250.not before but smack on 2250rpm.spent lots of time checking all sorts of things ,but it wasnt untill I replaced a leaking tappet cover gasket when I cleaned the injector harness(forgot to order new one) that the vibration went and motor is running sweet again(really sweet).Harness was cleaned all the way to computer.It is amazing the difference in the before and after.
It may help you,easy to check if oil in connectors.

[Graeme]

As you can reproduce it without driving, drop the serpentine belt off & give it a try then - just to eliminate the ancilliaries.
I'm reluctant to run the engine at 3500rpm, in fact any rpm, without the water pump, having already paid a $10,000+ penalty for destroying the head on my '99. But I can run it without the ACE pump and without the alternator albeit on different occasions so I will do that. I will put the original belt back on as the current belt causes the tensioner pulley to jump a little at idle as though there's a stiff spot in it.

There is no oil in the injector harness plug at the front of the head. I check it regularly and checked it again today. Excepting that the engine pulls smoothly, I imagine that running on 4 cyls would make this sort of racket, as would grossly advanced ignition timing on a petrol engine. Its as though the engine is operating under a huge load, yet has no load at all.

Thanks,
Graeme

[tracker]

"Its as though the engine is operating under a huge load, yet has no load at all.".
I will be watching this forum with interest.Had the same problem but after cleaning harness at all ends it came good.I had to disconnect my neg earth strap to get the comp out,maybe that cleared the comp .The update had been done to the inj/harness but there was still a heap of oil at the injector pins on the ecu.
One good thing about this site ,if we keep passing info we may get this top little donk going.(sorta)
ps .also opened up exhaust,replaced flex connection(on exhaust pipe) checked/serviced sensors,changed ALL oils and serp belt.

[dobbo]

Mine started it about 2 weeks ago, I thought it was the manifold, The DC joint exploded today (luckily at low speed and only 3 km's from home)

[Blknight.aus]

does that mean that I have a front propshaft to replace when I get there?

[wardy1]

Here's a newy..... I had the same vibration problem, I had replaced the front drive shaft already, vibe still there as i accelerate to 100k.
Front steering bushes were the answer! My truck has 19ok on the clock:o

[Slunnie]

Mine started it about 2 weeks ago, I thought it was the manifold, The DC joint exploded today (luckily at low speed and only 3 km's from home)
Jeez, the fun never ends. Do you want to borrow your Rangie. :D


Wardy, which steering bushes did you replace?

[dobbo]

does that mean that I have a front propshaft to replace when I get there?



Nah even I am capable of replacing it, I just need to get a new one to replace it with.

[dobbo]

Jeez, the fun never ends. Do you want to borrow your Rangie. :D


Wardy, which steering bushes did you replace?


It would be nice, but I cannot tow it home in low range, so you have to bask in it's beauty a few more days.

Ok


How much was your woody shaft, or would that be overkill on my car?

[zulu Delta 534]

Had a bad vibration problem with my TD5, felt like it was running one cylinder short, L/R in Adelaide swore it was engine related, and replaced cabling. No difference. Chased the problem here in Brisbane and all L/R agencies relied on computers and also said engine fault.
Listened to a young bushie and replaced r/h engine mount as he suggested and it feels like a new car.
My car has 180k and does a lot of towing.

[greg smith]

Thanks,it is very similar to a problem I have with my td5. I have replaced tyres ,wheels,balanced both shafts and recently replaced front prop shaft,now I will definitely watch with interest what transpires with yours!!!

[Slunnie]

How much was your woody shaft, or would that be overkill on my car?

It'd be overkill on your Disco, but they are cheap now due to the US dollar which may be a reason to do it. I think they cost me $1200 IIRC for 2 shafts with adapters landed. I had the adapters checked and the report was no runout in them also (I assume within some sort of tolerance). They are bigger 1310 uni joints throughout which is great if you're beating down on them, but the heavier joints will also magnify any vibration that may be in the systems due to slop in the pinion or transfer outputs etc.

I'm not sure if Tom makes standard sized DC joints etc, but if he does, then buying a new one with standard uni's may not be a bad idea. It's painful emailing backwards and forwards with him and he does respond with a lot of depth, but an internet phone card late at night gets the job done quickly and easily (ie 15-20mins). I've ordered a few shafts from Tom now, and he is quick. Next day dispatch and always on my door within a week.

[Graeme]

Had a bad vibration problem with my TD5, felt like it was running one cylinder short, L/R in Adelaide swore it was engine related, and replaced cabling. No difference. Chased the problem here in Brisbane and all L/R agencies relied on computers and also said engine fault.
Listened to a young bushie and replaced r/h engine mount as he suggested and it feels like a new car.
My car has 180k and does a lot of towing.
Do you know what had happened to the mount - eg was it split or soft?
My clutch went through a phase where it shuddered when cold, so a mount could be damaged.

Thanks,
Graeme

[zulu Delta 534]

The mount was leaking although you couldn't detect this from the outside when fitted. Visible signs were not really apparent to the naked eye, minimal difference in height, so minimal that most people (self included), couldnt pick the difference between my measurements and new. Not a cheap experiment though at around $350 or so per mount. I only did the one and it solved the problem (probably caused because of the extra strain applied to the right side because of the direction of the torque when power was applied when towing.)
Glen

[greg smith]

Graeme, let us know how you go, it is of great interest to me after the amount I have spent so far. Thanks.

[zulu Delta 534]

Applying pressure (leaning on) to the top of the motor from right to left whilst it is running, you should get some idea whether engine mounts are the culprit.

[Graeme]

Applying pressure (leaning on) to the top of the motor from right to left whilst it is running, you should get some idea whether engine mounts are the culprit.
Thanks for this.
I had a look and poke around today. I couldn't discern any difference between the left and right mounts or anything else that looked out of place other than a couple of hoses that needed cable-tying up, including a coolant hose sitting on the RH engine mount. Both sides of the engine (top bolts of the engine mounts) appeared to be vibrating by about the same amount. I'll have a go at leaning on the engine as you suggest.
Thanks,
Graeme

[jsbholden]

I and a friend have the same problem with our Disco TD5's. Tried loads of things (exhausts, loom, fan etc) to sort mine but it's still there! would be interested to hear if you manage to solve yours

[Graeme]

I and a friend have the same problem with our Disco TD5's. Tried loads of things (exhausts, loom, fan etc) to sort mine but it's still there! would be interested to hear if you manage to solve yours
I'm waiting to organize to have the ecu checked for any fault codes (perhaps injectors) and ensure that the ecu hasn't lost the injector codes. Can't rush these things...

[jsbholden]

i've been down that road and no faults were stored

[jsbholden]

Graeme,

Any luck on solving the problem?

[Graeme]

Graeme,

Any luck on solving the problem?
I haven't persued it any further yet.

I now know it hasn't lost(cleared) the injector codes as the ecu limits the revs to 3000 rpm when no injector codes are stored. I also now understand that the dynamic balancing process monitors the variation in crankshaft speed caused by each cylinder's firing and adjusts fuel and/or timing to try to equalise them.

I'd like to monitor the cylinder balance data over the rev range under load to see if one cylinder's figure goes crazy, which might indicate an injector not up to scratch. I've been eyeing-off the Nanocom units which can show the balance figures. I can't justify spending $600 atm to maybe help solve this annoyance (even though it would end-up costing me at least $150 have it done by a LR dealer or specialist) but it might earn its keep in other ways over time, so maybe one day.

[Graeme]

I've eliminated 1 more item by replacing the main muffler with a straight-through one but there's no difference in vibration/drone/noise. So its not exhaust hangers, engine mounts, accoustic cover, main muffler or engine fan, although the fan was never really a suspect as the noise is combustion-related. I still haven't had the cylinder balancing checked so that's probably next.

[Redback]

I've eliminated 1 more item by replacing the main muffler with a straight-through one but there's no difference in vibration/drone/noise. So its not exhaust hangers, engine mounts, accoustic cover, main muffler or engine fan, although the fan was never really a suspect as the noise is combustion-related. I still haven't had the cylinder balancing checked so that's probably next.

What tyres are you running, did you have them replaced before the noise started??

Baz.

[Graeme]

What tyres are you running, did you have them replaced before the noise started??

Baz.
I have GY Silent Armours after MTRs, but as the harshness is revs-related (occurs in each gear at the same revs), I doubt there's any connection with the tyres. Thanks for the thought anyway.

I haven't yet run a belt around the gbox soundproofing, although it really doesn't seem to be something light vibrating. The harmonic balancer wobbles at idle, but at almost $600 for a new pulley I wont be changing that without expert advice.

[mike 90 RR]

I have GY Silent Armours after MTRs, but as the harshness is revs-related (occurs in each gear at the same revs), I doubt there's any connection with the tyres. Thanks for the thought anyway.

I haven't yet run a belt around the gbox soundproofing, although it really doesn't seem to be something light vibrating. The harmonic balancer wobbles at idle , but at almost $600 for a new pulley I wont be changing that without expert advice.

Graeme

I'm not a TD5 owner ... but a wobbly harmonic balancer is a problem
If it lets go it will cost you more than $600
Can stuff the crank / seals / etc & if it comes off because it is rubber mounted then it will cost you what ever part it jumps into (radiator?)

Go and find a second hand one and replace it ... Plenty around ask the folks

Mike

[Graeme]

I considered that it was not moving enough to become a problem itself, but now you've got me thinking. I will try to measure the run-out and maybe speak with some local engine rebuilders, although as it was obviously balanced (the floating section has some holes at 1 spot), it must be out of balance now anyway. 10 years ago I had a tractor's HB re-rubbered because I thought it shouldn't be wobbling but it didn't take long for it to start wobbling lots again, so its been ignored since, and I was content to leave this one be.

I'm not keen to try a s/h one as it might also have run-out. However I might remove the floating section and see what effect on the vibrations it has, and if there's enough change but still has vibrations, I will consider getting a new one. I think the TD5 is the 1st vehicle I've ever owned that uses an HB, as I remember friends' old Holdens always having problems with theirs.

[mike 90 RR]

I've just taken the time to read all the threads in this post
This vibration has been there since November 07

If you "borrow" a second hand harmonic .... then this will help in eliminating this item
I am sure of one thing ... If rubber mounted / they do let go and slip about
They put the vibrations through all your bushes & seals that are connected to the crank and that inturn causes early failure to the engine

Make sure the bolt hanging onto the harmonic is not loose .... My bro had to get rid of his car due to a harmonic coming loose ... It had cut out the end of the crank & stuffed the seal // to fix it he would have had to buy a new crank

You have a "precision" engineered motor that does not tolerate extremes
Your 10k experience might help in explaining my thoughts here

:)

Mike

[Graeme]

I may have identified the source of the problem.

I removed the harmonic balancer from the pulley after discussing the situation with my son-in-law who is involved in the manufacture of engine ancilliary equipment, including their NVH characteristics.

Now the engine has very much less vibration going through the 2500-3500 rev range. It gets noisier as the revs increase but no longer seems to have that very bad patch. Gradually increasing cruising speed from 100 to 110 produces a gradual increase in cabin noise and accelerating through the range doesn't seem to produce the previous significant increase in reverberation. The engine pulls smoothly right up to 4500 rpm in 3rd, with no harshness-related reason for changing-up before 3000 rpm.

I will try without the HB for a while (maybe several weeks) to be totally convinced then will probably install a new one. I will most likely refit the accoustic cover in a few days.

[Lucus]

Running sans Harmonic Balancer is a pretty good way to destroy crankshaft.....:eek:

[Graeme]

Running sans Harmonic Balancer is a pretty good way to destroy crankshaft.....:eek:
I think they're like sensors - a good one is better than none at all, but none at all is better than a bad one.

My SIL plans to discuss the role of the HB and my situation with motor engineers of one of the large car manufacturers over the coming days, so I should have some feedback from current specialists before long.

[jsbholden]

Graeme,

Did you replace the HB or are you still running without?

[Graeme]

Still without the HB.
Feedback received was that they're usually for occupant comfort reasons (NVH) but nothing specific for the TD5.

[jsbholden]

Which part of the damper had the wobble? my section that bolts to the crank (grooved) can be moved about by hand but the outer bolt on section is as solid as a rock

[Graeme]

My pulley is smooth. The section that floats on the rubber was tight on the rubber but was not running true.
It sounds as though your pulley is loose on the crankshaft.

[nzlandies]

I have been trying to solve similar issue to this. Mine is the same in that its at the same revs all the time 2500-3000 and then clears up. The only difference is that it has been known to disappear totally- only for a very short time, ten minutes or an hour.

My HB is not perfect when at idle. The pulley has no movement at idle but I can move it slightly by hand (1mm) but the HB is solid.

It feels to me like my vibration has weight to it, not a buzz or a rattle. The engine has heaps of power. Only other issue is a **** idle when cold, dont think they are related

Then it might be the flywheel, what symptoms do these present when buggered?

Have you had time to see if removing the HB has sorted yours for good. I would like to know how you have got on. Cheers

[TYE]

Graeme,
Have a look at your engine mounts, i had the same type of promlem with lots of noise and vibration replaced the mounts and the car is very quirt. I keep thing something is wrong so quirt.
Tye.

[nzlandies]

This is in a 110. Are the engine mounts the same for a defender and disco? What is yours

[matt39788]

My defender does exactly the same thing, at 2700 to 3000 and above it sounds like it's about to blow up it scares the hell out of me. I never rev it past 3000 rpm due to the sound that it makes. Graheme did you find the source was it the balancer or not???

[nzlandies]

I have read hundreds of post on this topic. Most never fully get to the bottom of the issue and many comments along the way from other keenly interested enthusiasts wanting a solution also. Money has been thrown all over the show and not everyone getting solutions. Most though have not replaced the balancer.

[Graeme]

Mine still has the HB removed. The bad drone/vibration was eventually tracked down to the bellows-type exhaust flex vibrating on its internal limit-stop, after having replaced both engine mounts, exhaust hangers and the main muffler without any improvement. The HB was refitted after changing the flex joint but re-introduced some drone. I feel that the engine may be not particularly well balanced and suspect the flywheel might be the cuplrit and that the inbalance has caused the HB rubber to distort permanently after trying for too long to do its job.

[nzlandies]

I so far have resisted the temptation to throw loads of money at this issue. There are lots of potential problems but it seems to me that it comes down to a general balance problem. If it were an injector, bad fuel buggered sensor etc then it should not improve with more revs, balance issues nearly always do. All things have a resonant frequency, a frequency when they will shake and drone, then if the frequency or speed is raised they disappear. This engine has a harmonic or resonant speed and its right about 2500. Even a tyre wobbling cos it chucked a weight usually comes right if you go fast enough. My props on the 90 were very specific about what speed they would shake so I just drove faster, nice and smooth, problem solved - I did put a D2 prop on it in the end.
The exhaust and engine mounts will contribute to a resonance so it fits that they have helped. I have done the flexi pipe and general overhaul of the exhaust but to no avail. It seems that even Land Rover knows this engine is prone to this charachteristic and have no specific cure either.

I will remove the HB myself and see if that helps. Then I guess its the flywheel. Its alot of coin to throw at a maybe through....You first ;-)

[Ghost-Who-Walks]

I will remove the HB myself and see if that helps. Then I guess its the flywheel. Its alot of coin to throw at a maybe through....You first ;-)

Hi

I have a 300Tdi, which has developed a very similar vibration to what you describe. at just under 2000rpm there is a very deep vibration/noise (more noise than feel, but must be caused by vibration somewhere). It is not drive-train related - it happens at rest, in any gear, 2WD/4WD, h'brake on/off etc etc. it started about 6-8mths ago, is slightly worse than when it first started, but not deteriorating... I've had the exhaust checked over, and the flex joint 'seems' ok. So, it must be the engine...

My disco is manual, and has only 128k kms on the clock...

I'd come to the conclusion it was the HB - but would appreciate thoughts.
If it was the engine mounts, what would I be looking for/how to check?

Puzzled, and just about to start spending money on fixing it, so want to mimimise the damage!!!

[Will Wallace]

I have a 2001 Td5 110 Defender with 185,000 km on it. This same problem (noisy and bad vibration under load) has just surfaced about one week after having it serviced and it is slowly getting worse. Just last night i ran slowly up the rev range in neutral and found there to be a vibration at about 2500 rpm? This has me worried! The bit that makes me think WTF?? is that whilst doing this in neutral and at a total stand still the Speedo picked its self up and sat at 40km. ????? any help???

[Will Wallace]

Speedo prob is fixed. Still having bad noise and vibration under load and especially in 5th gear at 80kph. it seems to ballace out at 100k's though, and at lower speeds there is a metallica chinking or rattling sound.

Cutch??? Flywheel???

2001 Td5 110. 185,000k's on it.

HELP????\

[Bellangry]

Hi I am also getting the same sort of vibration. 93 TDI Disco with 107000ks. The vibration is not there all the time but disappears mainly at about 100kph. Yes and it does it at rest too. I will try engine mounts later and maybe the harmonic balancer. I will advise on the progress.
Keith

[dirty130]

You'll get used to it, mine has done it from new and I think it is to do with the harmonics of a five cyl engine. I hardly notice now after 6 years. The tinny sound at about 80 kph is a vibe from the exhaust in my opinion.

Lynn

[discotek]

I also get this vibration in the engine at 2200 - 2400 rpm, whether in gear or neutral. It has been apparent in some form since 60,000 Km's when I bought it. New engine mounts settled it for a time. Seems like a common issue.

[nzlandies]

I just bit the bullet and replaced the dual mass FLYWHEEL. FIXED THE SODDING VIBRATION!!! It was buggered and had heaps of play in it. A big expensive job but its sorted now. I got a new flywheel for $390 and a clutch kit for $318 and labour $450.The next day I went back and had the engine mounts done as well while I was in the mood. Two mounts from a Trannie write off done 10k fitted for $150. Loads of people say this helps and it is generally smoother but it was not the cure for the big vibration I was getting at 2500-3000rpm. There are still some harmonics coming through mostly I feel from the exhaust (goodbye cat) but they are so mild as to be irrelevant. It has transformed the vehicle and feels like a totally new car. Hope this helps

[spudboy]

Good result.

$390 for a dual mass flywheel (and that'd be those NZ dollars as well.....)sounds pretty cheap to me! I thought they were a lot more expensive than that.

[nzlandies]

Good result.

$390 for a dual mass flywheel (and that'd be those NZ dollars as well.....)sounds pretty cheap to me! I thought they were a lot more expensive than that.

Yep is is cheap. I have spent a bit with them over the years and they also wanted to get to the bottom of the issue as well. Other vehicles they deal with have this problem but nobody wanted to fork out the coin in case it was not the cure. I think it was at cost or close to for the flywheel. My clutch was knackered so I had to get in there anyway.

[Graeme]

A good result, nzlandies.
Mine could be the flywheel but as the engine gets instantly smooth and more powerful at about 2700 (somewhere between 2650 & 2750) I think it could be a change point in the fuel timing map that could be better programmed. I can't imagine that a faulty/worn flywheel would suddenly become balanced at a specific revs. I will in time remove the starter and check the flywheel for movement though if my clutch problem persists.

[dutchviking]

Hi, any update on the flywheel? Vibration cured?

[Graeme]

The engine has lost most of its roughness since removing the big I/C, so I think it was the particular combination of the ecu remap, the I/C and possibly the improved intake and exhaust flows. Its also lost a significant amount of its willingness above 2500 rpm, although still a lot better than standard.

[nzlandies]

Have you done you engine mounts? Well worth it and not a big job. It took even more of the hard edges of the engine and it really nice now. Between the engine mounts and the flywheel my has gone from a harsh horrible car to drive to very smooth and characterful motor.

[RR P38]

I have just bought a Disco 2 Td5.
Vibration that seems to cause concern to many owners and my self.
Seems to be coming from the the exhaust header.
Construction is stainless steel, this is very hard and brittle metal.This is the cause of the vibration problem the header is acting like a speaker.
Looking at the way it is mounted it is a long way between supports.
When time permits i will be experimenting with some extra braces.
I would suggest possibly 2 braces horizontally fixed at the 3 and 9 Oclock positions. Utilux clamps and the original rubber hook arrangements will work fine i think.
If it works a visit to an exhaust fitting center could weld a more permanent fixings in place.
As stainless heats up and cools hundreds and thousands of times it hardens even more as the metal looses its malleability it tends to resonate even more.
A new header and flex joint should solve the problem as well at a cost though.

[selfe]

iv got a td5 and iv had both engine mount replaced and front propshaft and it still vibrates at 2200rpm any one got any ideas

[Hamish71]

....turn the radio up:wasntme:

[selfe]

i dont think so mate

[RR P38]

iv got a td5 and iv had both engine mount replaced and front propshaft and it still vibrates at 2200rpm any one got any ideas

Ok,
With mine the Rattle as it is better called.
I tried this.In park no hand brake on rev your engine up till you hear your rattle (mine about 2150rpm-2250rpm) hold the revs and now pull on your hand brake.
It should be adjusted so that by the 3rd click it is full on (nice and firm).
My rattle is not present if i do this, obviously i cant drive like this so on further investigation i have found that lots of the parts in the hand brake mechanism are worn this it seems is due to the vibration over the years.
I have just ordered new drum shoes and a full spring retainer kit.
I believe the noise comes from the shoes rattling on the inside of the backing plate, if you look in there you will see considerable wear at the points that it all rattles on.

It is definitely NOT as i stated in an earlier post the exhaust flange.
I have changed my engine mounts ($260) and it made it worse than before all be it at a slightly lower RPM.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

iv got a td5 and iv had both engine mount replaced and front propshaft and it still vibrates at 2200rpm any one got any ideas

Yes!
go to The Good Oil Forum!

[RR P38]

Ok up date on my findings.
I have now replaced my hand brake backing plate and brake shoes and all the springs in the hand brake arrangement.
THE RATTLE IS GONE.
As i found on previous looks under the hand brake drum i noticed without disasembly that things were worn from the vibration of the engine (particularly the backing plate).
Now that the parts are out and on the floor in front of me it is quite obvious what was causing the rattle.
If you want the rattle completely gone you will need to replace all the components under the brake drum.

[haydent]

i had bad rattle too when bought, would stop if pulled hand brake up a bit (could be done while driving), and replacing handbrake mechanisms fixed that. but it still has vibrations at same rpm (~2200) that likely led to the handbrake wear.

these im still investigating along lines talked about in this thread and others.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/120474-purchasing-td5-3-amigos-harsh-vibrations.html (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/120474-purchasing-td5-3-amigos-harsh-vibrations-new-post.html)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery-2/100404-ultimate-solution-td5-vibration-knocking.html