PDA

View Full Version : TD5 cylinder Balancing



Graeme
3rd November 2007, 06:30 AM
Does the ECM dynamically achieve this, or is it preset using Testbook etc? If by Testbook, what does the process involve?

I'm exploring engine vibration problems and the possible causes.

TIA,
Graeme

Blknight.aus
3rd November 2007, 08:00 AM
each injector has a 2 letter code assigned to it at production. this is then entered into the ECU via whiteman magic and from that point on hypothetically all injectors inject the same amount as directed by the ECU.

Slunnie
3rd November 2007, 08:54 AM
Does the ECM dynamically achieve this, or is it preset using Testbook etc? If by Testbook, what does the process involve?

I'm exploring engine vibration problems and the possible causes.

TIA,
Graeme
Out of interest, the ECU chip that I was running on the Hay River trip was causing greater engine vibration and noise in some rev bands under higher load. I've since changed to a milder chip and the problems have gone. Based on this, the ECU does seem to have an impact on the smoothness of the motor.

Graeme
3rd November 2007, 09:39 PM
Out of interest, the ECU chip that I was running on the Hay River trip was causing greater engine vibration and noise in some rev bands under higher load. I've since changed to a milder chip and the problems have gone. Based on this, the ECU does seem to have an impact on the smoothness of the motor.
I very briefly (30 seconds?) drove another chipped manual TD5 on that trip while at Lake Caroline and I immediately noticed the smoothness and liveliness of its engine.

I am aware that cylinder balance checking can be performed, but don't know the process or what can be done about any inbalance. Interestingly, the user manual for the Nanocom unit mentioned in another thread shows cylinder balance figures for individual cylinders of -2, -2, 0, 2,-1

tombraider
3rd November 2007, 09:46 PM
The balancing is dynamic...

Next second that image could be 5 -2 -1 3 -7

BigTim
3rd November 2007, 09:54 PM
Thanks Tombraider. I was wondering what those values actually meant but hadn't gotten round to asking the question yet :D

feraldisco
17th December 2009, 08:54 PM
resurrecting a rather old thread... Nanocom guide suggests that values outside of -4 to +4 indicates that all is not ok with the injector. Does this mean that considerable variance between injectors isn't a problem as long as it's not outside of this range? I'd be curious to know what readings other people are getting as I've got some -5s...

justinc
17th December 2009, 09:19 PM
Actually the figure is closer to + or - 15, that is when the ecu will actually log a fault. A constant high number on one cyl can also indicate engine problems.

JC

feraldisco
17th December 2009, 09:29 PM
yes...I just discovered the below, so my figures of +/-5 are nothing to worry about. Airflow is 50kg/hr, so that's all good. MAP is filthy, so will give that a better clean-up on weekend and maybe run disconnected to see if that affects running at all... Have started to hear fuel pump...so another thing to sort out...


"The power balancing rpm is useful to show an injector that is playing up. Normally the figures vary from about -10 to +10. A duff injector will show a large numerical value, 35 or whatever when the others are in single digits.

If the ambient air pressure reads 0 then the ECU will not compensate for altitude. This doesn't matter much even at 5000 feet. The problem is that a new sensor is a ridiculous price, make sure you are sitting down when you ask a stealer.

Air flow is useful - it should be about 47kg/hr at idle going to over 300 under power. If it reads 0 or never changes your AFM is stuffed, which is common.

Most of the other stuff is of no real interest."

feraldisco
17th December 2009, 10:05 PM
oh, and thanks to Zute for the Nanocom service!:BigThumb:

I'll get around to getting my own one of these days...

justinc
18th December 2009, 06:21 AM
Also, 300Kg/hr under load isn't enough, full throttle should see at least 550 to 650. I clean/test or replace MAFS that don't read over 300.

JC

Captain_Rightfoot
18th December 2009, 07:44 AM
Also, 300Kg/hr under load isn't enough, full throttle should see at least 550 to 650. I clean/test or replace MAFS that don't read over 300.

JC

Am I wrong - but I've taken to squirting the MAF with carby cleaner whenever I check the air filter?

discowhite
18th December 2009, 08:08 AM
im abit nervous about using carby cleaner on it, i use the electrical cleaner its safe for use on plastics so it shouldnt be as harsh.

cheers phil

scarry
18th December 2009, 08:52 PM
Out of interest, the ECU chip that I was running on the Hay River trip was causing greater engine vibration and noise in some rev bands under higher load. I've since changed to a milder chip and the problems have gone. Based on this, the ECU does seem to have an impact on the smoothness of the motor.

Since having the BD chip in mine i recon there is more NVH,particularly around the 2300 rev area under load.
It's not really a problem.....the improved go is great..

justinc
18th December 2009, 08:55 PM
im abit nervous about using carby cleaner on it, i use the electrical cleaner its safe for use on plastics so it shouldnt be as harsh.

cheers phil

Certainly using carby cleaner is bad for plastics etc, CO contact cleaner is just the stuff:)

Cleaning the MAF when checking airfilter is not a bad habit IMHO.


JC

Slunnie
18th December 2009, 09:17 PM
For those of use that don't know. Is there a difference between contact cleaner and electrical cleaner?

and where do you get it?

Blknight.aus
18th December 2009, 09:23 PM
There is.. but first.

Co contact cleaner is an electrcial cleaner but its plastics safe so ideal for use on mafs and maps.

What makes it an electrical cleaner is that it leaves no residue (other than any gunk its failed to shift)

Not all electrical cleaners are plastics friendly

not all plastic friendly cleaners are electrical friendly.

Co contact cleaner can be had from some auto shops and most electronics shops (jaycar)

justinc
18th December 2009, 09:24 PM
For those of use that don't know. Is there a difference between contact cleaner and electrical cleaner?

and where do you get it?

Simon, they are one in the same, the trick is to ensure the description on the can includes ' no residue' . Electrical cleaners can also encompass 'air in a can' which is next to useless for cleaning MAF's. Good for PC's though...

CRC make the product 'CO contact cleaner' in a blue and white can. This is what I use.

DO NOT attempt to use metho on a cotton bud, this can end in tears as the filaments are ultra brittle. One touch can cost you $300 odd :mad:

JC

Slunnie
18th December 2009, 09:25 PM
Excellent! Thanks for that Dave.

Slunnie
18th December 2009, 09:26 PM
Thanks JC also, I'll look for that brand too.

Graeme
19th December 2009, 05:08 AM
Some contact cleaners include a lubricant for the contacts. I use Jaycar's Electrical Cleaning Solvent.

discowhite
19th December 2009, 06:36 AM
Simon, they are one in the same, the trick is to ensure the description on the can includes ' no residue' . Electrical cleaners can also encompass 'air in a can' which is next to useless for cleaning MAF's. Good for PC's though...

CRC make the product 'CO contact cleaner' in a blue and white can. This is what I use.

DO NOT attempt to use metho on a cotton bud, this can end in tears as the filaments are ultra brittle. One touch can cost you $300 odd :mad:

JC

thats the stuff i use, never had an issue with it seams to last forever too:eek:

cheers phil

Captain_Rightfoot
19th December 2009, 07:59 AM
Some contact cleaners include a lubricant for the contacts. I use Jaycar's Electrical Cleaning Solvent.

That was why I used carby cleaner... my electrical contact cleaner has a light lube in it. Not what you want for a MAF :(

Slunnie
22nd December 2009, 08:17 PM
Simon, they are one in the same, the trick is to ensure the description on the can includes ' no residue' . Electrical cleaners can also encompass 'air in a can' which is next to useless for cleaning MAF's. Good for PC's though...

CRC make the product 'CO contact cleaner' in a blue and white can. This is what I use.

DO NOT attempt to use metho on a cotton bud, this can end in tears as the filaments are ultra brittle. One touch can cost you $300 odd :mad:

JC
I went to clean it today.

The MAF sits next to the airbox doesn't it? When I cleaned that I didn't see any filaments??? :confused:

Franz
22nd December 2009, 09:37 PM
I went to clean it today.

The MAF sits next to the airbox doesn't it? When I cleaned that I didn't see any filaments??? :confused:
Simon,

The MAF is in the tube between the Air cleaner box and the turbo. Disconnect the clips either end and the plug and then remove that short section of tube - you'll see the filament inside it.

Cheers,

Franz

justinc
22nd December 2009, 09:51 PM
Simon,

The MAF is in the tube between the Air cleaner box and the turbo. Disconnect the clips either end and the plug and then remove that short section of tube - you'll see the filament inside it.

Cheers,

Franz

AND DON'T TOUCH IT SIMON!!!!!!:D

JC

Slunnie
22nd December 2009, 10:01 PM
Thanks for this!

Is it possible that I don't have a filament? It just has little metal thing on one side.

rovercare
22nd December 2009, 10:39 PM
Simon, they are one in the same, the trick is to ensure the description on the can includes ' no residue' . Electrical cleaners can also encompass 'air in a can' which is next to useless for cleaning MAF's. Good for PC's though...

CRC make the product 'CO contact cleaner' in a blue and white can. This is what I use.

DO NOT attempt to use metho on a cotton bud, this can end in tears as the filaments are ultra brittle. One touch can cost you $300 odd :mad:

JC

Just to add a little more, CO contact cleaner, is in the larger can, its flammable and plastic friendly, NF contact cleaner is non-flammable, ruins some plastics and leaves a massive residue....its well....crap

Both are CRC products and not to be mistaken;)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/457.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2009/12/458.jpg

rovercare
22nd December 2009, 10:42 PM
Oh, the bigger can reference is in regards to real life, just coincidence the pics larger to:D

discowhite
23rd December 2009, 05:38 AM
Thanks for this!

Is it possible that I don't have a filament? It just has little metal thing on one side.
that sounds like an aftermarket MAF.
ive got 3 mafs at home 2 OE ones and 1 cheap imported one, both the OE ones have as described 2 sensor/wire strips between the metal prongs in the center of the maf, but the cheap one only has one. there is nothing between the second set of prongs.

cheers phil

Slunnie
23rd December 2009, 08:24 AM
Phil, thanks for this! I now see my problem...


no wires! I'm in Sydney at the moment, so I guess its a trip to Trivett Parts today. :mad: