davros
11th November 2007, 07:34 PM
Just a few more questions for anyone with zf auto trans knowledge (disco 2 2000 model).
My "overheating trans" light keeps coming on.
I've replaced the filter, flushed fluid through the cooler as well as the usual fluid change, and the trans passes the RAVE slip test even when hot. The cooler is not blocked on the outside with mud. I have made a pressure cleaner wand and (after checking it didn't damage vanes) cleaned it out completely.
Sometimes the light takes about 30mins of hard driving to come on, sometimes it comes on within 15. When I got the car in 2005 I noticed the light came on after a longish steep hill at about 80kph (those in perth, welshpool road up to kalamunda). It would go out quickly. Dealer assured me this was not a worry. They would, of course. Now it comes on all the time. The first time it did it without a hill or other "provacation" was about three months ago after a remote country run for about 2 hours at a relatively silly speed. The light would not extinguish for ages after backing off.
The trans is a little louder when it is hot, emmiting a faint moan in lower gears from start, that fades and disappears at higher speeds. It does lock and unlock correctly.
The light does not extinguish easily once on, even when locked in top gear at 110kph on a level road. I am waiting for a boom.
I read somewhere about the forward clutch pack dragging if there is a fluid leak in some seals - can anyone tell me if this is a possible cause?
The Trans does feel hot to touch but not "roasting". I was considering the sensor but my local landrover dealer (who I mast admit I trust as far as I can throw my bloody disco [$8k in repairs since the start of the year]) assures me they very rarely fail.
Can the center diff be failing and be dragging and cause overheating (I checked it's not locked and the handbrake is not dragging)? The transfer case feels hot but I can't find any literature to say what temperature either it or the auto trans should run at.
As I live out in the bush, and the closest land rover dealer causes more problems on return than when I drop my car off, I'd love some more info especially from anyone with similar problems they've cured.
Thanks again all,
Dave
My "overheating trans" light keeps coming on.
I've replaced the filter, flushed fluid through the cooler as well as the usual fluid change, and the trans passes the RAVE slip test even when hot. The cooler is not blocked on the outside with mud. I have made a pressure cleaner wand and (after checking it didn't damage vanes) cleaned it out completely.
Sometimes the light takes about 30mins of hard driving to come on, sometimes it comes on within 15. When I got the car in 2005 I noticed the light came on after a longish steep hill at about 80kph (those in perth, welshpool road up to kalamunda). It would go out quickly. Dealer assured me this was not a worry. They would, of course. Now it comes on all the time. The first time it did it without a hill or other "provacation" was about three months ago after a remote country run for about 2 hours at a relatively silly speed. The light would not extinguish for ages after backing off.
The trans is a little louder when it is hot, emmiting a faint moan in lower gears from start, that fades and disappears at higher speeds. It does lock and unlock correctly.
The light does not extinguish easily once on, even when locked in top gear at 110kph on a level road. I am waiting for a boom.
I read somewhere about the forward clutch pack dragging if there is a fluid leak in some seals - can anyone tell me if this is a possible cause?
The Trans does feel hot to touch but not "roasting". I was considering the sensor but my local landrover dealer (who I mast admit I trust as far as I can throw my bloody disco [$8k in repairs since the start of the year]) assures me they very rarely fail.
Can the center diff be failing and be dragging and cause overheating (I checked it's not locked and the handbrake is not dragging)? The transfer case feels hot but I can't find any literature to say what temperature either it or the auto trans should run at.
As I live out in the bush, and the closest land rover dealer causes more problems on return than when I drop my car off, I'd love some more info especially from anyone with similar problems they've cured.
Thanks again all,
Dave