Drum Brake Salisbury In a Rangie

[timberwolf_302]

I was wanting to put a Salisbury rear axle in my Rangie, for strength, and wasnt to concerned about having drum brakes as opposed to discs.

Are there any issues with running drum brakes off a disc brake system? I heard something about drum brake master cylinders and disc brake master cylinders being different...

And if there is issues, can the disc brake setup off the Rover axle be put on salisbury?

[cal415]

I was wanting to put a Salisbury rear axle in my Rangie, for strength, and wasnt to concerned about having drum brakes as opposed to discs.

Are there any issues with running drum brakes off a disc brake system? I heard something about drum brake master cylinders and disc brake master cylinders being different...

And if there is issues, can the disc brake setup off the Rover axle be put on salisbury?
Not sure about the drums vs discs but apparently theres not much work in puting the rangie brake setup on the salisbury, i am looking at doing this for my 110, but apparently makes the rear slightly underbraked in a 110, couldnt see that being an issue in a rangie as thats what they come off!

I found most of the info in a post on outer limits, i will see if i can find it for you if your interested.

[lokka]

Yep sounds like a good idea tho i know who will be doing the lookin and who will be doing the doing :p:p:p:p:p:D:D

[streaky]

I'd be tempted to keep the Range Rover axle and discs as it is.

Yes..the salibury is supposed to be stronger but if it goes wrong out in the feild then you're pretty stuffed when trying to remove it from the axle casing. You'd need a case splitter to do that.
If building some strength into the axle was a primary concern then I'd be inclined to go down rally route and throw in some strengthened shafts, flanges, diff and also look at trussing the axle case via gussets.

I think I'm right in saying that to convert an early salisbury to discs you'd need a few bits from a late 300 series axle. (or get clever with the welder and fabricate some odds & sods) Alot of people have done it but I keep asking the question why. Our rally Defender was running a Rover back end, Quaife diff and half shafts etc, gusseted axle etc.
Keep is standard for ease of repair in the feild is always a concern too.

ANother thing to remember is that when building in strength to one line of components you'll expose a weaker link else where in the drive train. Been there & done that.... not cheap either.

Regards.

S.

[furianer]

Good evening, that is what we are having here, and about 20cm of snow.

Some of the swiss army rangies had salisbury drum axles fitted to the rear. one of does rangerovers is in the hand of a classic car collector, i got a chance to drive it a couple of years ago, there is not much of a difference in the way the brakes perform.

I planning on changing the axles front on rear of my 110TDI for a set of a 110 V8, i reckon they made em a lot stronger back in those days, and drums don't rust and squeal the way disks do at the moment, and are easy to change.

cheers Richard

[mudmouse]

I think you'll have to modify the brake master cylinder. The front disc/rear drum master has a check valve for the drum circuit - it's just a little brass thingy that restricts fluid.

I did a rear disc conversion on my Torana and had to remove this check valve in order for the rear brakes to work and then not stay on. Have a chat to a brake specialist on this...you might have to replace the master or have a valve fitted. You also might have issues with the RTA :twisted: for 'reducing' braking efficiency - they might think going from discs to drums is a backward step (despite the racing history of drum brakes - but thats another story)

Good luck with it:D

[isuzurover]

Yes..the salibury is supposed to be stronger but if it goes wrong out in the feild then you're pretty stuffed when trying to remove it from the axle casing. You'd need a case splitter to do that.
If building some strength into the axle was a primary concern then I'd be inclined to go down rally route and throw in some strengthened shafts, flanges, diff and also look at trussing the axle case via gussets.


No "supposed to" about it - the Sals is MUCH, MUCH stronger. 1.5" larger ring gear, much thicker teeth, and HYPOID.

Also - needing a case splitter is a furphy. You just need gentle pressure from a couple of tyre levers to remove, and a soft hammer to refit.

Discs will bolt up, but you need to mix-and-match some parts - like the bolt-on caliper brackets fitted to late 200Tdis, etc...

[timberwolf_302]

Sounds good to me.

Thanks for your input guys. I will fit one.

[DaveS3]

Just remember - the sals pinion is 2'' longer, therefore you have to shorten your Drive shaft the sam amount.

Cheers
Dave.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I think you'll have to modify the brake master cylinder. The front disc/rear drum master has a check valve for the drum circuit - it's just a little brass thingy that restricts fluid.

Good luck with it:D
Matt is correct, without explaining it fully. Drum brake hydraulic circuits have a residual pressure device in the circuit so that the shoes are kept near the drums (in addition to the adjusters) otherwise the piston would fully retract into the cylinder and you would have to pump the brake pedal every time you wanted to stop. Disk brakes don't have this residual pressure because you want the pads off the rotor.

The problem with the RRc and drum brakes is that the rear (proposed drum brake circuit) also operates 1 pair of pistons on each of the front calipers. (Confirm this by the presence of the 2 brake hoses going to each front caliper.) The problem is retaining the residual pressure for the rear axle while having no residual pressure in the same hydraulic line going to the front.

Why not use Defender rear disks on the Salisbury rear end?

Diana

[Jojo]

Not all drum axles have the brackets for the calipers, only the later ones. And, as said already, you will need a shorter drive shaft (probably custom made) for a Salisbury axle.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Not all drum axles have the brackets for the calipers, only the later ones.
Jojo - that's right, however you can always glue on the brackets with the MIG, even if you have to salvage or replicate them from the Defender or RRc.


And, as said already, you will need a shorter drive shaft (probably custom made) for a Salisbury axle.
Yup - And have it balanced. Have seen a number of drive-shafts twist up like a stick of fusilli.

Neither jobs are something for the in-expert. Much easier to get a Salisbury already with the disk brakes.

[sclarke]

Ohhh an i have a Salisbury for sale......

[timberwolf_302]

Why not use Defender rear disks on the Salisbury rear end?

Diana

I was shopping around Land Rover Wreckers for prices on Salisburys, and $385 for a drum brake one, and $990 for a disc brake one.

The only reason I am really wanting to go with a Sals. is the $385.

I am sick of those rover diffs breaking the cross pin in the centre, I dont know why it wont break axles instead, because i hear thats what they usually do.

This is the 3rd time, and I have run out of spare diff centres. A salisbury would be great, because they are a 4 pinion diff, strong as I will ever need it to be. As long as it breaks axles instead of itself, I will be happy.

I would just get a couple of maxidrive centres if I had the money...and 4.11 cw&p's

I have been tempted to try replacing the cross pin with a high tensile bolt of same diameter, and testing it out in rear axle...may sound silly, but the crap metal they made them out of couldn't be any better than a HT bolt...

[BigJon]

You could fit a trutrac limited slip diff. Cost about $1000, but gets rid of the cross pin problem and gives better traction as well. I have one in the rear of my Rangie and I am very happy with it.