Method for 300TDI bearing cap t piece install

[langy]

Topic:The rubber t-pieces (also known as packing pieces) located in # 5 main bearing cap of the 300TDi motor.

Since my engine has decided to leak engine oil despite my efforts to seal it, one of the things I'm going to do is replace the t-seals. Normally, a LR tool is called for, but does anyone have an alternate method of installation?

My first thoughts on the topic are to use two steel plates and a g-clamp something like the method to install piston rings into the bores.

[Scouse]

Can I ask why you would need to make a clamp tool?

You need to remove the cap to fit the T seals, but I haven't seen the guys here use anything special. The cap can be a tight fit & sitting it in the freezer for a while will make it easier to fit.

[langy]

For the benefit of others who might be contemplating t-seals - when I replaced the crank in 2005, I fitted new seals, and they were difficult to install. And since then I've had a persistent leak. I always put it down to the rear main oil seal gasket (now discontinued) having warped the aluminum housing of the seal itself. Now, after doing some gearbox work, and replacing the rear main seal without the gasket but with sealant, I find that the oil leak still persists. So the next suspect is that I've somehow ruptured the t-seals on assembly. The freezing trick will make life easier, and I'll report in due course.
(And thanks to Mr Scouse for the info)

[460cixy]

on my rebuild my gasket set came with cork t seals and were a serious pain to fit. however with some care i got them in and to be on the safe side i coated the external seams on the cap with black max and seems leak free so far. why the poms insist on sealing stuff like this no one will ever know the tdi and rover v8 are the only engines i have seen where the rear cap needs a seal. even old fords and chevs with the crapy rope seal dont need a seal on the cap

[langy]

You ain't kidding

[Phillip]

When I overhauled my 300tdi, I was supplied the cork T pieces and found that applying flange sealant to the cork and surrounding groove allowed them to slide into place very easily. Care must be taken at this point.

[Bush65]

Rover changed from the T-seal, to sealant injected into the groove after the cap is fitted. That reinforces the issues with fitting the seal so that it seals properly.

IMHO it would need a special long thin nozzle to ensure the sealant is distrubuted properly in the bottom of the groove. So we continue to battle with the T-seal.

The friction, which stretches the seal as the cap is fitted is a problem - silicon applied to the seal helps to reduce the friction.

The other problem is the edge of the block, which catches the seal protruding from the side of the cap. The special tool that I believe Langy is referring to, can be made from 2 pieces of plate - they provide a gentle chamfer to lead the seal into the reccess for the cap. IMHO well worth using.

[Scouse]

The other problem is the edge of the block, which catches the seal protruding from the side of the cap. The special tool that I believe Langy is referring to, can be made from 2 pieces of plate - they provide a gentle chamfer to lead the seal into the reccess for the cap. IMHO well worth using.Here's a picture of the plates (LRT-12-035):
5209

[specwarop]

What is the part number for these T-seals? And was it determined that it is easy enough to replace just by taking sump off?

[langy]

ERR913 Britcar (UK) Ltd > ERR913 REAR MAIN CAP 'T' SEAL RUBBER 4CYL (G) (http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=85284)
, and it's reasonably easy to replace after the sump is off. Cap bolts are 12 point, and following the tips from Scouse and Bush65 really does work. Also, smear the face of the cap that butts up against the rear main oil seal - that helps too. I like using Dow Corning 732 silastic (Black) for these areas, it does a good job on the sump as well.

[specwarop]

Sounds good. Would Threebond 1104 or 1215 work as the sealant?

[langy]

I've never used Threebond products before - looking at the spec sheet:
1104 probably not
1215 maybe.

[Tank]

on my rebuild my gasket set came with cork t seals and were a serious pain to fit. however with some care i got them in and to be on the safe side i coated the external seams on the cap with black max and seems leak free so far. why the poms insist on sealing stuff like this no one will ever know the tdi and rover v8 are the only engines i have seen where the rear cap needs a seal. even old fords and chevs with the crapy rope seal dont need a seal on the cap
Almost all engines that have the crankcase extend below the crank centreline like the 300TDi and rover V8 and Ford Y type blocks have the same or very similar seals on the rearmost bearing cap to seal the crankcase, so Rover is not alone in that regard, Regards Frank

[Roachie]

Hi All... Further along from the last entry on this curly matter... Does anyone know the diameter and thread count of the 5th main cap bolts? If I can get long studs to screw into my block, the 5th main cap can be tightened into place slowly, hopefully making a better job of fitting these mongrel T-seals!!

[Jode]

Someone (either on this forum or Landrovernet) used sealant as follows (IIRC):
1. Hold finger on one end of the T of the cap
2. Inject sealant from the STEM (bottom) of the T until it squeezes out of the OTHER end of the T
3. Finally inject sealant into the remaining T end until a bit comes out of the other T end.

I haven't tried this but would do so should I need to replace the T seals again.