what to do when your lift is a little higher

[HAK]

G'day all

needs some help after installing my suspension on my Disco 2 I now have 5 inch lift on the front and 4 on the rear

two options are

option 1 is to place 1 inch spacer on the rear to bring the rear up

or

Option 2 is to pull the front springs out have them reset

problem with option 1 is that Im pritty certian that the front ACE is going to bind up to over come this maybe I can install some Disconct sway bar links

Problem with option 2 is if Dobinson reset my spring then the coils will be tighter and give bugger all arc

what to do

[Piddler]

Coils are cheap I would buy another pair to suit what you want.

Save a lot of mucking around resetting coils, leaves are easy coils are a fair bit different.

Cheers

[Zute]

Resetting spring height does not change the stiffness. Its the length of the wire and its diameter.
Are you sure you put the springs in the right ends ? (front rear)
With that much lift it will change the front caster, which will need addressing.

[cal415]

G'day all

needs some help after installing my suspension on my Disco 2 I now have 5 inch lift on the front and 4 on the rear

two options are

option 1 is to place 1 inch spacer on the rear to bring the rear up

or

Option 2 is to pull the front springs out have them reset

problem with option 1 is that Im pritty certian that the front ACE is going to bind up to over come this maybe I can install some Disconct sway bar links

Problem with option 2 is if Dobinson reset my spring then the coils will be tighter and give bugger all arc

what to do
Well, you are planning on putting in a winch so it will even out the lift when you do no doubt, for now, get some coil spacers or a spacer plate to go under spring seat for the rear just to even it out and get longer ACE rods made up, thats probobly the easiest and cheapest way, chances are if you get sshorter front springs you will end up replacing them after sag with the heavier front end when the winch comes along.

[HAK]

the hight it self is OK it drives well other then my shocks being a bit to soft

it doesnt pull at all but bouncy the steering wheel sits to the left a bit to which is another issue that needs to be looked at

I know that when in low gear the ACE deactivates giving the best Arc it can but even so with the diff moving up and down wouldnt the hydrolic arm have its limitations

[cal415]

Are you sure you put the springs in the right ends ? (front rear)

heheh thats what i was thinking when i saw pics of it!

[cal415]

I know that when in low gear the ACE deactivates giving the best Arc it can but even so with the diff moving up and down wouldnt the hydrolic arm have its limitations
no doubt it has its limitations but only one way to find out if your setup is reaching them, find a ramp or something to flex it up on, get it flexed up as far as it goes then chock up the wheels and get under and have a good look at whats limiting the travel, if the ACE bars are holding it back then disconnect them to see how much more travel it has if it needs it extend the rods from the ram to the diffs, if its the shocks at there limit then thats all good :)

[Slunnie]

The D2 front springs wont go into the rear. All springs have ground ends except for the front bottoms which are cut and dog legged.

[HAK]

Resetting spring height does not change the stiffness. Its the length of the wire and its diameter.
Are you sure you put the springs in the right ends ? (front rear)
With that much lift it will change the front caster, which will need addressing.


what does the caster do, does it adjust the diff angle or the steering geometry as it doesnt pull at all

As for reseting thats the problem if the its reset then the coil gap is made smaller which will result in less flex

the right ends are put in as the rear and front have different ends rear are flat top and bottom the front are flat top and kink in the bottom so that ok to

[HAK]

The D2 front springs wont go into the rear. All springs have ground ends except for the front bottoms which are cut and dog legged.

well thank god for that I can strike that out :)

[Slunnie]

what does the caster do, does it adjust the diff angle or the steering geometry as it doesnt pull at all

As for reseting thats the problem if the its reset then the coil gap is made smaller which will result in less flex

the right ends are put in as the rear and front have different ends rear are flat top and bottom the front are flat top and kink in the bottom so that ok to
Castor causes the self centering of the steering and removes or reduces the steering wander.

[HAK]

Castor causes the self centering of the steering and removes or reduces the steering wander.


I dont have any of that unless its hidden amungst the shoft shocks

Any idea on how I can correct the steering in the sence that the wheel sits to the left

I know I need a new RTC shock to

[rick130]

<snip>
As for reseting thats the problem if the its reset then the coil gap is made smaller which will result in less flex

<snip>

err, no, unless there's been a balls up with wire diameter and they coil bind before you get into the bump stop.

As zute said, wire diameter and the number of coils determines spring rate, not free length.

[vnx205]

G'day all
.............. I now have 5 inch lift on the front and 4 on the rear ...........

what to do

Higher at the front? That means you will be driving uphill all the time.
Just like Defenderzook when he goes up from Sydney to Brisbane.

Maybe it will counteract the problem he was concerned about when driving down to Melbourne.
:p

[Redback]

I dont have any of that unless its hidden amungst the shoft shocks

Any idea on how I can correct the steering in the sence that the wheel sits to the left

I know I need a new RTC shock to

Wheel allignment, and adjustable panhard rod, but wheel allignment first.

Welcome to our world:mad:

Baz.

[HAK]

err, no, unless there's been a balls up with wire diameter and they coil bind before you get into the bump stop.

As zute said, wire diameter and the number of coils determines spring rate, not free length.

Oh Ok I thought that when coils a reset there basicly heated and compressed making the coil shorter ah ha

[HAK]

Wheel allignment, and adjustable panhard rod, but wheel allignment first.

Welcome to our world:mad:

Baz.


been there before ah mate :p

[rick130]

Oh Ok I thought that when coils a reset there basicly heated and compressed making the coil shorter ah ha

yes, you got that part right, but if you want a reduced ride height and the spring rate is OK, how else are you going to get it ?
If the spring is too heavy in rate, a softer rate (more coils, effectively a longer piece of wire) at the same free length will give a lower ride or loaded height.
I've listed the calcs used to determine this in the distant past. I'll see if I can find it rather than re-write the whole thing.

[tombraider]

All the guys are correct re springs and resetting....

But that 5" lift is going to eat your front shaft in no time.

Greaseable or not it wont hold up to it...

Your up for a new heavy duty job...

And I'd suggest getting the front down asap, back to 4"

Then follow Slunnies advice from his suspension, change the rear links, space the ace up front etc....

IMHO, and it is mine, I believe yours is too high...
Looks a little out of proportion and could do with coming down around an inch up front...

You'll need to fit the extended bumpstops asap also...

Other than that, if your happy, then thats what matters :D

Good to see you giving it a go! And welcome to the addiction....

[HAK]

[QUOTE=tombraider;636854] Then follow Slunnies advice from his suspension, change the rear links, space the ace up front etc....QUOTE]

Ive got front links in the rear as per Slunnie adventually a winch and dual batteries are going in the front some say that it will drop the front down by an inch or so, so Im hesitant to bring the front down, then have to need to bring up again

Slunnie suggested to place a spacer in the rear to bring the rear up might take that rute for now and work around it I quite like it at 5 inch so I wouldnt mind working around that I probibly live to regret it later :D

Drive shafts need to be changed and thats properly for certian and on the do list along with a lot of others

I wouldnt mind giving sway bar disconnect a go though but there got to be more to it as know one else has done it :o

[Redback]

The thing about the D2 is that, not having swival balls the do the castor properly, the wandering will always be there, bringing the rear radius arms up to the front will only bring your castor to 0, same if you do the offset bushes.

Another thing is that once you get the front down, when you load the car for a trip, the front will come up and your wandering will return, you may need to get Polyairs to level things out again.

Knowone does castor kits for D2s because it's too hard and if they did it would be way too expensive, alot of engineering places have tried both here the UK and the US and still nothing.

Adjusting your driving style is the key:D

Should have got the Lovells like Slunnie and I have they are a proven product:p

Baz.

[HAK]

Mmmm I should have gone levells as I said before anything that I steered away from slunnies directions is where thing are that need looking at :D

Mmmm Dobinson who the hell suggested Dobinson

Slunnies the man if he cant do it no one can :p;)

[Redback]

I've done a few things different to Slunnie, more as an experiment to see if other combinations will work and i have been successfull and unsuccessfull, my setup is a bit different too Slunnies but still works as well, but then we do different things when touring, he has a swag and i tow a camper, that's why my setup is slightly different, but the basic setup is the same (springs and shocks)

The thing is, if i was going to do it all again from scratch, i would not go 4" as i did with the springs, instead i would go for a slightly less lift 70mm, maybe 75mm and go for 33s, you get almost the same lift but with less hassles with shocks and castor adjustments, extending brake lines and ABS sensors, panhard rods and so on so on.

Anyway, get that front down, and get the bar and winch to get it down a bit more, say 1/2" less than the rear (i'm assuming your getting a bar and winch) and then get some Polyairs or Firestone air bags to keep things level when loaded for a trip, that should help.

Baz.

[HAK]

I got the bar just need the winch B'day comming up let see how generous the wife feels not very I would imagine

[procrastination inc]

Any idea on how I can correct the steering in the sence that the wheel sits to the left...


Adjust the drag link

[HAK]

Any idea on how I can correct the steering in the sence that the wheel sits to the left...


Adjust the drag link

you mean undo the steering coloum so to speak and turn it and shove it back in again ?

[HAK]

I was thinking of placing these on the Disco there of a POO POO POOtrol

[tombraider]

You essentially dont have a sway bar, you have a hydromechanical stabiliser system.

One of the best there is...

Why? For the sake of an inch of lift would you want to fit gear like that and ruin an exceptional vehicle?

All the extra money you'll spend on disconnects etc could be better spent biting the bullet and getting the Lovells springs.... :cool:

Additionally you'd need to disable the ACE system completely, remove the actuators etc and what would you end up with? A vehicle which is now nowhere near as good as what you had..

I must be going soft in my old age, the max I would lift would be the same as Slunnie if I was going to lift it any higher...

But i realised something... I've been everywhere in a 2" lift :D and have no desire to up my tyre sizes to gain real clearance under the vehicle.

I already run 32's.... 33's would fit no worries..... And no hassles from rego or cops or insurance company in any way...

If your going for 33's then your lift is more than required. The only real clearance you have is under the diffs, this will stop you every time compared to ramp over etc....

The secret to the best "outback challenge" style vehicles is as low as possible with the biggest diff clearance possible....

Slunnie reached the best balance of lift and tyre, combined with the best combination for touring and play....

[tombraider]

you mean undo the steering coloum so to speak and turn it and shove it back in again ?

NO!!!

There are 2 bars running across under the front of the vehicle...

1 from steering box to the left wheel.

The other from the left wheel to the right wheel...

EXTEND the front one (from steering box to left wheel)... And the steering wheel will rotate right and if adjusted correctly the steering wheel will be straight.

[HAK]

You essentially dont have a sway bar, you have a hydromechanical stabiliser system.

One of the best there is...

Why? For the sake of an inch of lift would you want to fit gear like that and ruin an exceptional vehicle?

All the extra money you'll spend on disconnects etc could be better spent biting the bullet and getting the Lovells springs.... :cool:

Additionally you'd need to disable the ACE system completely, remove the actuators etc and what would you end up with? A vehicle which is now nowhere near as good as what you had..

...
where you show your age im showing my lack of knowledge ;)

I just assumed that when in low gear the hydrolics switch it self off, yet the arms go up and down because there connected yet running no presure but the arms are still able to bind up so there for in theory, when Im off road just disconnect them freeing up the ACE from binding up in any then reconnect them when back on the road


Im in a nother planet I must be :D

[stevo]

if you fit sway bar disconnects the hydraulic cylinders will still work as they will be reacting from computer outputs from the sensors in the car

[HAK]

if you fit sway bar disconnects the hydraulic cylinders will still work as they will be reacting from computer outputs from the sensors in the car

so thats to say even in low gears they do still work to some proportion

[HAK]

thanks Dobinson they wont replace the spring they will only reset it which means that my Disco can be off the road for anything up to 3 weeks knowing Dobinson :mad:

[procrastination inc]

Originally Posted by procrastination inc View Post
Any idea on how I can correct the steering in the sence that the wheel sits to the left...


Adjust the drag link....


you mean undo the steering coloum so to speak and turn it and shove it back in again ?
__________________


No.

It sounds to me that you are worried that your steering wheel is now rotated to the left when you are travelling straight ahead.

the drag link is the rod that connects the steering box to the LH wheel. Extend this a bit and it will rotate your steering wheel to the right. This won't effect wheel alignment.

[procrastination inc]

or what tombraider said :)

[HAK]

or what tombraider said :)


thats sorted two then ;)

[LRHybrid100]

mate if you wanted a Tojo or Nissan why did you not just buy one?

LRs dont need megalifts to perform well - this is why they are the best vehicles off the showroom floors.

LRH

[discowhite]

Mmmm Dobinson who the hell suggested Dobinson

you cant blame me or dobbinsons for something thats in actuall fact is YOUR fudge up!
just rember they make springs to YOUR specifications.

;):p

[HAK]

you cant blame me or dobbinsons for something thats in actuall fact is YOUR fudge up!
just rember they make springs to YOUR specifications.

;):p

wouldnt dream of blaming you mate that would be wrong lets not go there ah

but I did tell Dobinson what I wanted they got the rear right why not the front so please explain how is my fudge up

[HAK]

mate if you wanted a Tojo or Nissan why did you not just buy one?

LRs dont need megalifts to perform well - this is why they are the best vehicles off the showroom floors.

LRH

yeah I know how well my Disco did I know where it lacked and what I wanted to improve ;)

[HAK]

One thing is for certain I should have stuck to Slunnies and Baz advice sorry Baz more so Slunnies he likes his set up:D;) and possible Lovell's having said that I like the lift I have and even with the front being 5 inch the drive isn't bad other then to soft of shocks which will be rectified in good time its a matter of seeing how much Arc it has where its lacking and what can be improve its a matter of dropping the front or raising the back

as for shock travel there plenty off, spring rate where yet to see sway bar links binding a great possibility, Drive shaft need strengthening (for sure drive shafts) ;)

Ill get there :)

[Redback]

Why not buy some front Lovells and fit them, this may help and get you out of trouble.

Baz.

[HAK]

Why not buy some front Lovells and fit them, this may help and get you out of trouble.

Baz.

what Ive notice a lot of in the states is there high lifted disco all lack front end flex and they love dislocation cones which I don't want, what I want is good flex in the front to

what I might do is to speak to dobinson tomorrow and say for the amount of money its going to cost in freight why not make another set of spring and sell them to me at cost Disco white is right to a point I did tell them the spring rate I wanted they recommended 240 front and 280 rear I wanted 220 front what they made god knows, so I cant see how its my cuck up

I might take it out and see what it needs first any one for lithgo week end after next

But a good idea should they not come to the party lovells here I come

[Slunnie]

I would be just inclined to have Dobinsons reset the front springs back down to match the rears. If you want to borrow a set of fronts while its being done, I've got some here.

Also, before you get them to reset the spring, just make sure that you are able to run captive a spring that is 1" shorter than what you have now, as that is what you'll end up with.

[Litlbee]

I would give Dobinsons a phone and discuss the problem with Glen or one of his specialists if possible. His knowledge of suspensions is vast. He will be able to guid eyou in the right direction or advise you of the problem

[Slunnie]

Just to add a little more to my previous post...

When you're at that 4" level you're right on the limits of quite a few things under there like coil bind, ACE travel, watts linkage (which you've overcome), uni-uni rear shafts, front shafts, steering castor etc. Its already at a complex level of development, though 5" will take it to another level again.

At 4" you have arrived at the point where you can run 35" tyres already with a guard trim, and with 35's you're already at 7" overall lift in reality which is a workable amount, but a lot. But, what would you gain from 5" lift? Probably just more Nose, belly and tail clearance for a lot of work and money.


Also with the dislocation, my opinion and experiences are that dislocating suspension at one end doesn't allow the suspension at the other end to articulate properly as it doesn't produce a counterforce. BUT, this is a topic that gets argued until the cows come home.

[dobbo]

So when do we all see it in action?


Is there a way to age the front springs so they sag quickly?


What did you do about your shafts to counteract the Rotorflex, DC and uni wear?

[dobbo]

After seeing what a failed shaft has the potential to do I wouldn't be going bush or driving it until it's completely finished, and that could be a very expensive, time consuming journey. If you must drive it, it might be an idea to install a ROPS, upgrade your car and life insurance policies and buy a pallet of your local insurance assessors favorite Alcoholic beverage. And FFS widen that track.

Good luck in your endeavours.

(I might have the green eyed monster but this statement also comes from being concerned you may hurt others driving an out of balance vehicle)

Serious question for the experts
Is there a way to raise the vehicle and maintain or reduce the centre of gravity?
(I have done it once for a short period of time but the result was a hard landing and a bent chassis.)

[rick130]

<snip>

Is there a way to raise the vehicle and maintain or reduce the centre of gravity?
(I have done it once for a short period of time but the result was a hard landing and a bent chassis.)

not really. You are lifting the entire mass with a suspension lift so the C of G goes up a corresponding amount. A body lift doesn't raise the major mass (engine, driveline, chassis) so is less offensive in terms of CofG.

The only way to offset it practically is widen the track.

[HAK]

As Slunnie has advised I'll drop it back down, the true difference is 20mm just as an experiment what do you guys think a winch and battery would way

[HAK]

not really. You are lifting the entire mass with a suspension lift so the C of G goes up a corresponding amount. A body lift doesn't raise the major mass (engine, driveline, chassis) so is less offensive in terms of CofG.

The only way to offset it practically is widen the track.


if it where doable which as Slunies has stated its not worth it I would have put flares and deeper dish rims but clearly its not worth it for a mere 20mm

[dobbo]

if it where doable which as Slunies has stated its not worth it I would have put flares and deeper dish rims but clearly its not worth it for a mere 20mm

That mere 20mm will slightly offset and potentially save the 100mm that just cost you 10k from disaster

I personally think weight reduction and a wider track is the answer to your next dilemma, these will cost a pretty penny though, (do they make portals for D2's).

[HAK]

That mere 20mm will slightly offset and potentially save the 100mm that just cost you 10k from disaster

I personally think weight reduction and a wider track is the answer to your next dilemma, these will cost a pretty penny though, (do they make portals for D2's).


no one said it would be easy :D

[dobbo]

no one said it would be easy :D


anythings easy with the right amount of money. I just hope you have a few more WRX's in your garage to sell to complete the task you've just started.

[HAK]

why? :D its a almost done dropping the front back down 20mm I need to get the shocks made stiffer $215 a pair

I still need to strengthen the drive shafts new half shafts and CV mmmmmm maybe the commodore needs to go :D:D

[MickG]

I need to get the shocks made stiffer $215 a pair

What shocks are you buying for the rear and do you know their open extended length eye to eye?

[HAK]

I have Bilstein 7100 imported from the states silly me got them to soft.

Its a matter of revalve them to suit which means I'll have to rip of the rear put them on the front as the rear should be good for the front and revalve the front from 255/70 to 360/80

It handle OK but just OK it doesnt bounce every where like a stuffed shock but they are soft, soft enough to dip then come back to centre the spring high doesnt help either, the original shocks I could squeeze to gether by hand they where truely stuffed
:D

[Scouse]

the original shocks I could squeeze to gether by hand they where truely stuffed
The originals would be oil filled - you're supposed to be able to do that ;).

[HAK]

The originals would be oil filled - you're supposed to be able to do that ;).


Oh goes to how much I know :o:D

[HAK]

Just spoke to gent at Dobinson QLD they I advised the issue they said that buy placing a Warn 8000 alone with drop the front down by 20mm not to mention a another battery he said the rear should lift by probibly 5mm

they advised to leave it they way it is and all will be perfect what do you guys think further to that they will do another set at cost price should the issue still excist

[Grimace]

Just spoke to gent at Dobinson QLD they I advised the issue they said that buy placing a Warn 8000 alone with drop the front down by 20mm not to mention a another battery he said the rear should lift by probibly 5mm

they advised to leave it they way it is and all will be perfect what do you guys think further to that they will do another set at cost price should the issue still excist

OMG i was about |----| that close to just replying with this
---------------------------------------------------
If you dont have a winch or duel batterys yet, spend your money on that and then once everything is level again (cause it will be). Get your self an adjustable panhard (front), and the rear wats link will need modification as it will bind way to soon.

Do a search (i think rovertym have a mod for the watts link), you will need to get one of the following for the front to correct castor;
Cranked front radius arms - expensive but good
Castor correction bushes - cheap but utter crap
Elongated swival ball mounts - i still prefer cranked arms

All radius arms points at the chassis will be under tension at ride height, so cranking the arms at the ends or fitting a rear chassis mount kicker (try maybe Les Richmond Automotive) to the rear will releive this tension and return the bushes to unloaded at rest.

Front drive shaft will need modifcation, and rear driveshaft will more than likely need attention.

Any tyres smaller than 33" will look silly and also unless you have decent offset rims your car will look tall and narrow and will feel the same once off the black top.

I am sure there is 100 other things I have missed, but i have never owned a D2.

All in all I think a D2 on 33-35" rubber with all the goodies will be fine at 4" spring lift. It just = more $$$ thats all :twisted:

Cheers
Anthony

[HAK]

OMG i was about |----| that close to just replying with this
---------------------------------------------------
If you dont have a winch or duel batterys yet, spend your money on that and then once everything is level again (cause it will be). Get your self an adjustable panhard (front), and the rear wats link will need modification as it will bind way to soon.

Do a search (i think rovertym have a mod for the watts link), you will need to get one of the following for the front to correct castor;
Cranked front radius arms - expensive but good
Castor correction bushes - cheap but utter crap
Elongated swival ball mounts - i still prefer cranked arms

All radius arms points at the chassis will be under tension at ride height, so cranking the arms at the ends or fitting a rear chassis mount kicker (try maybe Les Richmond Automotive) to the rear will releive this tension and return the bushes to unloaded at rest.

Front drive shaft will need modifcation, and rear driveshaft will more than likely need attention.

Any tyres smaller than 33" will look silly and also unless you have decent offset rims your car will look tall and narrow and will feel the same once off the black top.

I am sure there is 100 other things I have missed, but i have never owned a D2.

All in all I think a D2 on 33-35" rubber with all the goodies will be fine at 4" spring lift. It just = more $$$ thats all :twisted:

Cheers
Anthony

Hi Anthony

battery and winch are next and not to far in the future adjustable panhard (front) maybe needed ill wait for an alignment to determan if I need one. Rear wats link from rovertym done already in there :) Cranked front radius arms - expensive but good, you mean whould be good if however I dont think there made for D2 :(

[BigJon]

Elongated swival ball mounts - i still prefer cranked arms



Bit hard to do that to a D2... they don't have swivel balls... ;)

[tombraider]

Oh goes to how much I know :o:D

And thats the scary part!

Your playing with a 2000kg weapon (eg.. moving ballistic) with a large serve of inertia...

Messing with brakes, Springs, shocks, mounts etc.... Plus CoG, and modifications which affect the handling is something you really should be careful with...

I'll put $100.00 on it, that it wouldnt pass the mandatory lane change test....

I also dont understand why you would want to do it so it looks so obviously illegal, your going to be a Cop magnet... :nazilock:

Our sport is always walking the fine line...
Do it right, do it safe, do it legal.... :soapbox:

[Grimace]

Bit hard to do that to a D2... they don't have swivel balls... ;)

Ok so no swivel balls and aparently no cranked arms available for D2s :eek:

Thats a down right bummer. Sell it and buy a classic :)

[MickG]

Sell it and buy a classic :)

I'll choose to ignore that comment Grimace;):D

[dobbo]

And thats the scary part!

Your playing with a 2000kg weapon (eg.. moving ballistic) with a large serve of inertia...

Messing with brakes, Springs, shocks, mounts etc.... Plus CoG, and modifications which affect the handling is something you really should be careful with...

I'll put $100.00 on it, that it wouldnt pass the mandatory lane change test....

I also dont understand why you would want to do it so it looks so obviously illegal, your going to be a Cop magnet... :nazilock:

Our sport is always walking the fine line...
Do it right, do it safe, do it legal.... :soapbox:


Totally agree

[HAK]

And thats the scary part!

Your playing with a 2000kg weapon (eg.. moving ballistic) with a large serve of inertia...

Messing with brakes, Springs, shocks, mounts etc.... Plus CoG, and modifications which affect the handling is something you really should be careful with...

I'll put $100.00 on it, that it wouldnt pass the mandatory lane change test....

I also dont understand why you would want to do it so it looks so obviously illegal, your going to be a Cop magnet... :nazilock:

Our sport is always walking the fine line...
Do it right, do it safe, do it legal.... :soapbox:

absolutely

hence why Im trying to bring back to 4 inch up the shock rates and have it engineered and have as safe 4x4 im not hoon nor am I crazy driver (you learn not to be when you have a little one) since it was done it been driven home and not moved till I sort out the bits

[tombraider]

absolutely

hence why Im trying to bring back to 4 inch up the shock rates and have engineered and have as safe 4x4 im not hoon or am I crazy since it was done it been driven home and not moved till I sort out the bits

Excellent, good to hear...

Heres a suggestion...

Ring the engineer.. Ask what he wants...
Find out his suggestions on HOW to go about it...

Then do it...

It'll work out cheaper...

[HAK]

Can you guys recommend any ?

[tombraider]

Can you guys recommend any ?

I'd think Slunnie would be able to tell you who he used

[Slunnie]

Yep,

Duan Phillips (VTOL Aircraft) in Garden Suburb near Newcastle. His details are on the RTA website as an engineering signatory.

[HAK]

thanks mate i'll call them tommorrow

[Redback]

OMG i was about |----| that close to just replying with this
---------------------------------------------------
If you dont have a winch or duel batterys yet, spend your money on that and then once everything is level again (cause it will be). Get your self an adjustable panhard (front), and the rear wats link will need modification as it will bind way to soon.

Do a search (i think rovertym have a mod for the watts link), you will need to get one of the following for the front to correct castor;
Cranked front radius arms - expensive but good
Castor correction bushes - cheap but utter crap
Elongated swival ball mounts - i still prefer cranked arms

All radius arms points at the chassis will be under tension at ride height, so cranking the arms at the ends or fitting a rear chassis mount kicker (try maybe Les Richmond Automotive) to the rear will releive this tension and return the bushes to unloaded at rest.

Front drive shaft will need modifcation, and rear driveshaft will more than likely need attention.

Any tyres smaller than 33" will look silly and also unless you have decent offset rims your car will look tall and narrow and will feel the same once off the black top.

I am sure there is 100 other things I have missed, but i have never owned a D2.

All in all I think a D2 on 33-35" rubber with all the goodies will be fine at 4" spring lift. It just = more $$$ thats all :twisted:

Cheers
Anthony

No cranked radius arms are made for a D2

Bushes take castor to 0, which is pointless and not enough.

D2s don't have swivel balls.

33s is the biggest you can go without cutting the guards.

35s won't fit a D2 even with a guard cut

Baz.

[Slunnie]

I run 34x11.5 JT2's with 4" and a guard cut. The JT2's measure up at 35.2 x 12.

[HAK]

less the 4 inch now :o:D

[HAK]

I've looked at the rear diff and the angle of the diff isnt all that bad so with a chat to Rovertym they advised if I use D1 spring seat it will gain me 15mm more Steve at Rovertym can make Shim to correct the way the spring may react under tention (less the resk of a spring bow) and also add 5mm

As for the front end the Diff angle is pritty bad so there two option here, Rovertym and QT services Rovertym can cut weld Radius arms he also makes an casing for strengthening (the ones on the top) as for QT there developing new ones for a 4 inch lift currently have one for 2 inch lift (the one on the bottom)

Rovertym cost $730 US shipped about $820 AUD
QT Services cost $348 GPB unshipped $800 AUD

5241

5242

[Slunnie]

I don't think the Rovertym ones will be legal here.

Both of those pictured wont fit the Disco2.

[HAK]

I wasnt sure whether the either pic was a D2 or not but by the work done you get the pic RTE do them on D2 but as advised might not be legal QT have developed one but its not manufactured as yet

its a waiting game

RTE has also advised there is rough one in the sence that it doesnt really do anything steering wise more to correct the angle of the diff

so the QT might be the go I need time to save up any way the wife will have a heart attack if she find out im spending another grand :D:eek::twisted:

[tombraider]

OK...
This thread and the partnering thread at D2AU are starting to be a joke....

Are you trying to have the biggest lift? Is that it?

You can't fit tyres any larger than Slunnie has legally.

There are height restrictions on headlights (AND I bet your above them)

Your vehicle looks over lifted like some POS Nismota.

You have no clue what your doing from a safety/mechanical point of view.

And if you think your going to get close to engineering it with a 5" lift your dreaming.

Seriously, admit its gone a bit too far... And take it back to common sense....

Your looking at $5000+ to get it even remotely sorted from where you are now....

I mean, how many times do YOU NEED TO HEAR IT...
Before common sense sinks in?

Damn....

:2up::tease::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangi n::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin: :bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::r ocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::roc ket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket:

[procrastination inc]

:) looks like you guys are having fun :o

Hooked up my LPG tanks today reversing with the suspension twisted up about as far as it goes.

Thinking a body lift is in order so I can tuck the tanks up a bit higher.

Any tips or trick from those who've been down this path?

[Slunnie]

OK...
This thread and the partnering thread at D2AU are starting to be a joke....

Are you trying to have the biggest lift? Is that it?

You can't fit tyres any larger than Slunnie has legally.

There are height restrictions on headlights (AND I bet your above them)

Your vehicle looks over lifted like some POS Nismota.

You have no clue what your doing from a safety/mechanical point of view.

And if you think your going to get close to engineering it with a 5" lift your dreaming.

Seriously, admit its gone a bit too far... And take it back to common sense....

Your looking at $5000+ to get it even remotely sorted from where you are now....

I mean, how many times do YOU NEED TO HEAR IT...
Before common sense sinks in?

Damn....

:2up::tease::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangi n::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin: :bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::r ocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::roc ket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket:




:D It is probably worth checking DOTARS NCOP etc for legalities. I'm am right on the edge with my tyre and spring package. The lift is unreal as are the big tyres, but in many respects you're spending so much money on something that doesn't need to be that expensive, and can be done legally and in many respects may perform better. The whole basis of the problems seem to be the springs, so it may be worthwhile revisiting this and getting them back to where you initially wanted them.

[Slunnie]

NCOP11

http://www.dotars.gov.au/roads/safety/bulletin/vsb_ncop.aspx

[dobbo]

OK...
This thread and the partnering thread at D2AU are starting to be a joke....

Are you trying to have the biggest lift? Is that it?

You can't fit tyres any larger than Slunnie has legally.

There are height restrictions on headlights (AND I bet your above them)

Your vehicle looks over lifted like some POS Nismota.

You have no clue what your doing from a safety/mechanical point of view.

And if you think your going to get close to engineering it with a 5" lift your dreaming.

Seriously, admit its gone a bit too far... And take it back to common sense....

Your looking at $5000+ to get it even remotely sorted from where you are now....

I mean, how many times do YOU NEED TO HEAR IT...
Before common sense sinks in?

Damn....

:2up::tease::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangi n::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin: :bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::bangin::r ocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::roc ket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket::rocket:





Are you implying there are cheaper ways to join the mile high club?

[HAK]

What’s with the big coloured text :o besides look at Slunnies spring what where 4 inch is now respectfully 2.5 front and 3.5 rear and that’s from a brand of spring from my understanding being the best (Lovell’s) this is margently under 5 inch which still will have a winch and another battery installed not mention cargo draws in the rear I’ll be lucky if I end up at 4 inch at the end

And if you know anything about Disco which you do no doubt and a hell a lot then I you would know that regardless, if your considering doing any of the hard grade tracks Drive shaft and axles need to be changed anyway thats if you don’t like leaving things to chance

Either way 2 3 4 5 inch lift I was going to add all these other goodies all except the Radius arms I don’t mind spending another $5000 if the end result is what I like

If it offends you in any way what’s so ever I'll leave my subjects and questions to D2AU

Besides I have spoken to an engineer explained to him all but the radius arms what I plan to do and what’s been done date so far prior expectation he cant see any issues fingers crossed

But again if it offends you please advice and I will not enter any more questions on this forum :o

[HAK]

:D It is probably worth checking DOTARS NCOP etc for legalities. I'm am right on the edge with my tyre and spring package. The lift is unreal as are the big tyres, but in many respects you're spending so much money on something that doesn't need to be that expensive, and can be done legally and in many respects may perform better. The whole basis of the problems seem to be the springs, so it may be worthwhile revisiting this and getting them back to where you initially wanted them.

Ok will do I get the front ones reset and call it a day thanks Slunnie for your help :(:)

[tombraider]

What’s with the big coloured text :o besides look at Slunnies spring what where 4 inch is now respectfully 2.5 front and 3.5 rear and that’s from a brand of spring from my understanding being the best (Lovell’s) this is margently under 5 inch which still will have a winch and another battery installed not mention cargo draws in the rear I’ll be lucky if I end up at 4 inch at the end

And if you know anything about Disco which you do no doubt and a hell a lot then I you would know that regardless, if your considering doing any of the hard grade tracks Drive shaft and axles need to be changed anyway thats if you don’t like leaving things to chance

Either way 2 3 4 5 inch lift I was going to add all these other goodies all except the Radius arms I don’t mind spending another $5000 if the end result is what I like

If it offends you in any way what’s so ever I'll leave my subjects and questions to D2AU

Besides I have spoken to an engineer explained to him all but the radius arms what I plan to do and what’s been done date so far prior expectation he cant see any issues fingers crossed

But again if it offends you please advice and I will not enter any more questions on this forum :o

It doesnt offend me, I just think your being a bloody goose...

If you want a stupidly lifted, goofy looking 4wd you should have stuck with the Patrol....

Post on D2AU I'll tell you its ridiculous there too....

You, personally, don't offend.

Your constant questions, the advice & answers given to those questions and then your refusal to listen to that advice - Now that annoys me.

Too high, out of spec....

You were on track to a great vehicle build... Now its just a joke!

[tombraider]

if your considering doing any of the hard grade tracks Drive shaft and axles need to be changed anyway thats if you don’t like leaving things to chance

I've driven Rocky Track etc... On A/T tyres and no lockers...

I never had lockers in the Defender and went everywhere that everyone else went... On stock centres and CVs...

I'll do the same in the D2...

[dobbo]

The fact is I have completed a few of the tougher tracks in my area in a fairly stock standard TD5 D2, only mods being a cut down front bumper and a set of 2nd hand 26575R16's, no lockers no lift.

I have completed most of my local (hard) tracks with a bit of careful driving and road building, plus I can still get in an underground or multi-story carpark.

As I posted in the start of your endeavour, give the car a chance to impress you in standard trim, not just one or two trips.

I am not against lifts and yes I will eventually lift mine most likely 2.5- 3 inches max as I feel anything else for my vehicle would be overkill, unneccesary for my requirements and will attract unwanted attention to my car.

[HAK]

I hear ya and I know what its capable of

all I wanted was a 4 inch lift with intention that it would drop lower with more goodies added

Sorry I get excited I'll attempt to carm down :angel:

[DirtyDawg]

G'day all

needs some help after installing my suspension on my Disco 2 I now have 5 inch lift on the front and 4 on the rear

two options are

option 1 is to place 1 inch spacer on the rear to bring the rear up

or

Option 2 is to pull the front springs out have them reset

problem with option 1 is that Im pritty certian that the front ACE is going to bind up to over come this maybe I can install some Disconct sway bar links

Problem with option 2 is if Dobinson reset my spring then the coils will be tighter and give bugger all arc

what to do
1st thing ask your Insurance company if you are still covered 4" to 5" inch on a Disco you might not like the reply...will look cool though....

[MickG]

Hey Rovernit, I hear what you are saying and understand you wanting to go a little higher but having been down this road several times on here and D2AU, my truck remains at 40mm spring lift plus a few extra mods to aid articulation etc. The other option for me is just way too expensive and delicate to get right IMHO. The D2 has so many things to consider and mod and even then it would appear to be a bit of trial and error.
My suggestion would be to stop and consider spending the $ on front and rear lockers and perhaps reduction gears as i reckon you will go just as far if not further with those rather than a huge lift. Although there are many D2's like Slunnies etc around with higher than 2" lift and bigger tyres, I wonder how many would do it again with a stock D2?

My D2 with front and rear lockers on 33's goes places that others in my club go with reduction gears, 35's and some serious modifications.

Having said all that, modifiaction of a 4wd drive is addictive and great fun, so which ever way you go, good luck and listen to the advice already given on here and D2AU, as most have been down this road before.

Best of luck, Mick

[HAK]

thanks guys Im with 4wd insurance Australia as long as its engineered and done the right way there OK with it from my understanding

As for Lockers I got them just need half shafts which are comming in due time

Please understand it isnt a case of mine is bigger I have nothing to prove I just love the off road and perhaps get a little excited and a head of my self it my nature

but Im going to bring the front down to much the rear then adventually when the spring settle it will be less then 4 inchs any way with winch and another battery and Cargo draws besides Im only really after 34 inch tyres

thanks for input guys I really appreciated it

[dobbo]

thanks guys Im with 4wd insurance Australia as long as its engineered and done the right way there OK with it from my understanding

thanks for input guys I really appreciated it

Your interpretation of the insurance companies policy may differ from the insurance companies intentioned interpretation, I'd be getting all engineered and non engineered mods to the vehicle written on the policy, make sure where you are insured to drive the vehicle. Read the fine print carefully and get the company representative to explain and if nessesary re write any grey areas you have.
At the moment, with your mods, you may have allready voided your insurance and possibly registration (possibly greenslip) of your vehicle. This means in the unfortunate result of an accident you may be fined or worst case scenerio saying hello to your new cellies little friend for a few years after you are charged with manslaughter.

The way I see it the best thing that could happen to you (if you drive your car in it's present state) is for the police to slap a defective vehicle sticker on it.

Is it worth the hassle?

Strip all the bolt on suspension stuff off it and replace it with the stock stuff, talk to an engineer and do it properly. Losing 10k now is a lot better than other scenerios. (and possibly cheaper than lawyers fees)

We are not trying to be B'stards and are actually trying to help you out of this mess.

[Redback]

thanks guys Im with 4wd insurance Australia as long as its engineered and done the right way there OK with it from my understanding

As for Lockers I got them just need half shafts which are comming in due time

Please understand it isnt a case of mine is bigger I have nothing to prove I just love the off road and perhaps get a little excited and a head of my self it my nature

but Im going to bring the front down to much the rear then adventually when the spring settle it will be less then 4 inchs any way with winch and another battery and Cargo draws besides Im only really after 34 inch tyres

thanks for input guys I really appreciated it

You do know you will need to cut the guards for 34s??

Another question are your spring rates in the rear the same as our Lovells (slunnie and me)??

Baz.

[HAK]

Your interpretation of the insurance companies policy may differ from the insurance companies intentioned interpretation, I'd be getting all engineered and non engineered mods to the vehicle written on the policy, make sure where you are insured to drive the vehicle. Read the fine print carefully and get the company representative to explain and if nessesary re write any grey areas you have.
At the moment, with your mods, you may have allready voided your insurance and possibly registration (possibly greenslip) of your vehicle. This means in the unfortunate result of an accident you may be fined or worst case scenerio saying hello to your new cellies little friend for a few years after you are charged with manslaughter.

The way I see it the best thing that could happen to you (if you drive your car in it's present state) is for the police to slap a defective vehicle sticker on it.

Is it worth the hassle?

Strip all the bolt on suspension stuff off it and replace it with the stock stuff, talk to an engineer and do it properly. Losing 10k now is a lot better than other scenerios. (and possibly cheaper than lawyers fees)

We are not trying to be B'stards and are actually trying to help you out of this mess.


No I dont drive it mate I have a 2nd car till its sorted I will cheat and drive it to my old mans place where I have a full work shop to sort it out

after a few experiments over the week end it'll end up 3.5 inch at most all round

[HAK]

You do know you will need to cut the guards for 34s??

Another question are your spring rates in the rear the same as our Lovells (slunnie and me)??

Baz.

Hi Baz no mate its to Dobinson spects 280 rear 220-240 front

[Redback]

Hi Baz no mate its to Dobinson spects 280 rear 220-240 front

OK, i think i remember you saying you have a camper, if so, your gunna need polyairs or Firestone air bags to get the rear back up when you attach the camper if your going to have drawers and other stuff in the back of the Disco.

My camper pulls the front up at the moment and my rates are Slunnies rates, which are for a heavy load, you think it wanders now, wait till you put the camper on:o

You better have your wits about you, cause it can get hairy, let me tell ya, without the camper it good, not as good as standard but OK, different story with the camper on, especially in the wet:burnrubber::eek2::whistling::whistling:

It's why i'm coming back down with my lift:(

Baz.

[HAK]

thanks for the advise I'll look into polyair or firestones have you got them now

[Redback]

No, i'm bringing my lift down, the springs i'm using are going to be OME 751 and 763 for the rear, that gives around 3" of lift maybe a tad less, but the 763s are a bit heavier rating to my Lovells, this will stop the sagging when i attach the camper, will be a bit harder without but i'm willing to compromise, i may even just get the front OME 751s and see how they go with the rear Lovells.

The other bonus is i can get long travel D2 front shocks and i can use the standard front bottom mount again.

Good luck with yours, hope you get it sorted.

Baz.

[HAK]

No, i'm bringing my lift down, the springs i'm using are going to be OME 751 and 763 for the rear, that gives around 3" of lift maybe a tad less, but the 763s are a bit heavier rating to my Lovells, this will stop the sagging when i attach the camper, will be a bit harder without but i'm willing to compromise, i may even just get the front OME 751s and see how they go with the rear Lovells.

The other bonus is i can get long travel D2 front shocks and i can use the standard front bottom mount again.

Good luck with yours, hope you get it sorted.

Baz.

Thanks Baz I could do with some good luck and like yours good advice

As you know all I was planning for was a 4inch lift and expecting less and when the weight was loaded 3.5 inch

Ill get there