Blown expansion tank again

[Rovernaut]

4 years ago I was towing an offroad camper up a hill and my Black plastc expansion tank blew at the seam. They are susposed to be notorious for spliting.
I replaced it with a
white plastic one, supposed to be better.
Well yesterday whilst again Towing, this time a boat I noticed the Temp gauge rising and loss of coolant.
I find that the white one also has split at the seam.
There must be a lot of pressure in the system to keep blowing them. Would have thought the cap would have release the excess pressure before the tank blew?
Any one else had this problem?
It's ok in the city, but if out bush it's another story.

[tombraider]

Out of curiosity when was the last time you had the radiator/cooling system flushed?

And how old is the Thermostat?

[Bigbjorn]

I installed one from a Volvo 144 on my County in lieu of the black painted steel one. The Volvo tank is white plastic, cylindrical and seamless. You can see the water level through it. PM me with your e-mail address if you want a photo.

[D3Jon]

Would have thought the cap would have release the excess pressure before the tank blew?
Any one else had this problem?


Hi Rovernaut, not sure what car you have, but I read somewhere that this is quite a common problem, particularly on the 4.6 P38 RR's.

On the RR, it's common for the coolant to come out under pressure from the split expansion tank and then ruin the fuse box in the process.

Like you, I would also have thought that the cap would release before splitting the expansion tank, but maybe the tanks degrade with age?

Jon

[4bee]

There are 2 tiny valves in the cap ie. one to let air in on cooldown & one to vent any normal HP. I can't recall the release pressure, but it's stamped inside the cap.

When was the last time you cleaned & sprayed some silicone spray into them & physically operated them to see if they move?

Are you overfilling the coolant level?

[GrahamH]

Hi Rovernaut, I replaced my black one with a new white one a few months ago on my Disco as a result of reading a similar thread on here (and also the fact that my tank was suffering from significant degradation of the surface on the centre front top edge). I spoke to a couple of reputable Land Rover parts suppliers here in Adelaide at the time and they pretty firmly shot down the suggestion that the white ones were inherently better than the black ones.

The consensus is that, black or white, they're only good for 150,000Km to 200,000Km and then you throw them away and buy a replacement. Fortunately they're not too expensive. I guess we just need to start viewing them as a consumable like a serpentine belt, or radiator hose (unless you're prepared to go down the modification path like Brian Hjelm. It’s a throw-away world!

Out of interest, did you have a low coolant alarm fitted to warn you this time (and did it work) or was it the temperature gauge that gave you the early warning?

[sclarke]

I installed one from a Volvo 144 on my County in lieu of the black painted steel one. The Volvo tank is white plastic, cylindrical and seamless. You can see the water level through it. PM me with your e-mail address if you want a photo.

Hey i have stacks of them...
Thats a great idea...

The Volvo 240 one is also white and semi transparent.. it pancake design and about 3" high with a bottom hose and top breather.....

The 1st pic has a Volvo 740 and 940 Expansion tank... the rounder one
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Last pic is one from a 240 series volvo, lower profile flat tank... every wrecker in the world has a old 240 laying around.....
in all the years i have had volvo's i have only blown one tank... and that was due to a blown head gasket...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Rovernaut]

Out of curiosity when was the last time you had the radiator/cooling system flushed?

And how old is the Thermostat?
the thermostat is new only 2 months old.
the system was flushed probably 6 months ago
the temp gauge only got to just over 1/2 way

[Rovernaut]

There are 2 tiny valves in the cap ie. one to let air in on cooldown & one to vent any normal HP. I can't recall the release pressure, but it's stamped inside the cap.

When was the last time you cleaned & sprayed some silicone spray into them & physically operated them to see if they move?

Are you overfilling the coolant level?

no level always to the 'X' inside tank.
Never cleaned the inside of the plastic pressure cap

[Rovernaut]

Hi Rovernaut, I replaced my black one with a new white one a few months ago on my Disco as a result of reading a similar thread on here (and also the fact that my tank was suffering from significant degradation of the surface on the centre front top edge). I spoke to a couple of reputable Land Rover parts suppliers here in Adelaide at the time and they pretty firmly shot down the suggestion that the white ones were inherently better than the black ones.

The consensus is that, black or white, they're only good for 150,000Km to 200,000Km and then you throw them away and buy a replacement. Fortunately they're not too expensive. I guess we just need to start viewing them as a consumable like a serpentine belt, or radiator hose (unless you're prepared to go down the modification path like Brian Hjelm. It’s a throw-away world!

Out of interest, did you have a low coolant alarm fitted to warn you this time (and did it work) or was it the temperature gauge that gave you the early warning?

The temp gauge warned me.
Strange though it was the second time I was towing. First offroad camper in QLD warmth, and now towing a boat on a 30 deg day.
So if common - it looks like outback location travellers need to carry one as a spare also.

[PhilipA]

Funny, mine is now 15 years old with no problems.

I sometimes wonder whether a slightly leaking sleeve or head gasket may cause the cooling system to pressurise with a high combustion pressure load, like towing a camper uphill on a hot day.

Have to be combined with a malfunctioning pressure bleed in the cap I suppose. But I wonder if the volume becomes too much for the little hole.
The blow off level of the cap should only be reached on "heat soak" after the car is switched off. If ever.
Regards Philip A

[Rovernaut]

Funny, mine is now 15 years old with no problems.

I sometimes wonder whether a slightly leaking sleeve or head gasket may cause the cooling system to pressurise with a high combustion pressure load, like towing a camper uphill on a hot day.

Have to be combined with a malfunctioning pressure bleed in the cap I suppose. But I wonder if the volume becomes too much for the little hole.
The blow off level of the cap should only be reached on "heat soak" after the car is switched off. If ever.
Regards Philip A
Yep I am worried that it's a head gasket, but there doesn't appear to be any bubbles .
The Thermo fans run after shut down on hot days sometimes on short trips also. I know they are supposed to run for 10 mins if the conditions are right after shutdown to cool things.
The top of the right hand side radiator is quite hot. I know as I have a good scar from when my arm touched it for a split second and my skin peeled off and was stuck to the metal. It was HOT.
It runs on Gas so it would run a little hotter. The temp gauge normally sits on 1/4 though.

[jx2mad]

A few years ago I was travelling down the Princes Highway in Victoria (driving a disco) when I saw a disco pulled to the side of the road with the bonnet up. Being the sort of person that I am, I stopped and asked what the trouble was, The chap didn't know for he had just borrowed his fathers disco and caravan for the long weekend. His problem was that the engine was violently overheating and spewing hot water out the top of the overflow tank .(lid kept blowing off). I suggested he had a blown head gasket ant that I would organise RACV to assist. Hope they found him ok as he was in the middle of nowhere.

[4bee]

A few years ago I was travelling down the Princes Highway in Victoria


Hope they found him ok as he was in the middle of nowhere.


You'd want to hope so, he's be getting a bit peckish by now, I should think.:D

[PhilipA]

The Thermo fans run after shut down on hot days sometimes on short trips also. I know they are supposed to run for 10 mins if the conditions are right after shutdown to cool things.
The top of the right hand side radiator is quite hot. I know as I have a good scar from when my arm touched it for a split second and my skin peeled off and was stuck to the metal. It was HOT.

How long since you had the radiator rodded, or a new core?
Its just that the fans on my 92 RRC have NEVER kept running after engine off. Even after Low ratio in 48C.
The switch is on the thermostat housing so it indicates that the motor is pretty hot.
It would be unusual for the head gasket to blow adjacent to the two holes in the heads, but not unheard of.
Regards Philip A

[Rovernaut]

How long since you had the radiator rodded, or a new core?
Its just that the fans on my 92 RRC have NEVER kept running after engine off. Even after Low ratio in 48C.
The switch is on the thermostat housing so it indicates that the motor is pretty hot.
It would be unusual for the head gasket to blow adjacent to the two holes in the heads, but not unheard of.
Regards Philip A
Never had the radiator rodded or recored.
Has 250000 on clock now.
I always have run coolant., and changed regulary.
Why would a radiator gunk up?
Even when I recently replaced the thermostat and the water pump everything was clean as a whistle.
Do they just break down with age? 11 year old now.

[PhilipA]

Rover Radiators have very small tubes, that can block up with tiny bits of rubber,silicone sealant etc etc.
Also have you looked at the fins? Often in old age the fins turn to dust.
If it is in as good condition as you believe, it will take a rodding at AFAIK around $100, not a lot.
If it is bad, you will be up for a $600 core but you may not have to buy any more header tanks.LOL.
Regards Philip A

[bblaze]

just been quoted $385 to recore my 89 rr and thats in tassie so you should be able to get that price over there
cheers
blaze

[Rovernaut]

Rover Radiators have very small tubes, that can block up with tiny bits of rubber,silicone sealant etc etc.
Also have you looked at the fins? Often in old age the fins turn to dust.
If it is in as good condition as you believe, it will take a rodding at AFAIK around $100, not a lot.
If it is bad, you will be up for a $600 core but you may not have to buy any more header tanks.LOL.
Regards Philip A
LOL:D
What's got me buggered is the temp guage ( it will show normal operating temp. When I lost water from the split header tank it rose, so let's assume it is working correctly)
Ok, I turn on the aircon, the gauge would sit on normal. The Cooler fans operate as they are operated by the sensor on the Thermostat cover. . When I switch off engine, sometimes, not always the fans keep running for 10 mins to cool the system..
The sensor has been switched and same occurs. So let's rule that out.
The thermostat has been replaced, so I assume it is not sticking.
The heater is hot in no time, drive .5 of a kms and it's hot, so the system must be heating fast.
Waterpump recently replaced.
If a radiator was blocked then wouldn't the temperature gauge also rise to hot?
Open the bonnet and the engine is hot.
If there was an airlock wouldn't the temp gauge also show hot also?

[PhilipA]

Temp gauges are designed to show"normal" ie just below half for a wide range of temperature so as not to alarm the driver at every hill .
I do not know the exact figures but maybe 80-105c.
I do not think the fans go on until 105C.
While this is all relatively OK, A Rover V8 does not like to be over 100C very much as the sleeves become a looser fit due to the differential expansion of steel and alloy.
AND the radiator is just about the only remaining explanation for your relatively high temps, unless there is a basic but small engine problem.
Regards Philip A

[Outback 1]

quote "If there was an airlock wouldn't the temp gauge also show hot also?"quote

not if the airlock is where your sender is , generally speaking if there is no water around the sender they will read normal temperature as they require water to create the contact !
also the engine (petrol)will usually ping (as in pre ignite)if it gets too hot
i know this from experience as the brumby did it on the way home one night but the temp guage read normal!

[Rovernaut]

Hey i have stacks of them...
Thats a great idea...

The Volvo 240 one is also white and semi transparent.. it pancake design and about 3" high with a bottom hose and top breather.....

The 1st pic has a Volvo 740 and 940 Expansion tank... the rounder one
http://www.heritagearchaeology.com.au/Automobiles/Volvo/Volvo%20Convert/new-2.jpg

Last pic is one from a 240 series volvo, lower profile flat tank... every wrecker in the world has a old 240 laying around.....
in all the years i have had volvo's i have only blown one tank... and that was due to a blown head gasket...
http://www.volvoadventures.com/240jh1engine2.jpg

Clarkie, I just had a look at pick-a-part and picked up a volvo one as in the bottom pic, the pressure cap is only 75 kpa about 10 lb, I grabbed one of a SAAB, that was 110 KPa, that's just under 16 lb, I know your the Volvo guru, so do they come in 15 lb also? Going to fabricate a bracket and if it works it's only cost me $13 instead of the $120 odd for LR.

cheers,
Rovernaut

[Rovernaut]

I didn't want to spend $120 on a LR tank so took some forum advise and wentr to the wreckers and picked up this $13 Volvo tank.
I also scored a SAAB pressure cap.
With a little modification to the bracket here's the end result.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/11/119.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/11/120.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/11/121.jpg

Thanks to Brian Hjelm and S Clarke for the Ideas

[streaky]

I remember an article from approx 6 years ago where we found that there were four different types of expansion tank available as spares.
The best one was the 'natural' semi-transparent plastic type.
Original Black plastic was rubbish.
Opaque white was rubbish.
Can't remember the third.
Best was given above.

Get an O2 check done on your system to confirm a leaking head gasket. I think it's a fool proof method when deliberating the subject.
Fitting a new cap is also a good way to ensure built up presure can reliably escape.

[sclarke]

15lb caps on Ovlov's, not to my knowledge.....

Now that ive seen your mod i'm going to do exactly the same in the county.....

That is neat and being part of the Ford Stable, it suits...:D:D:D

[Rovernaut]

15lb caps on Ovlov's, not to my knowledge.....

Now that ive seen your mod i'm going to do exactly the same in the county.....

That is neat and being part of the Ford Stable, it suits...:D:D:D
And they're cheap and compact enough to carry as a spare. Since they have the same diameter hose outlets as LR, one could carry a spare and use an occy srap or 2 in an emergency to get one out of trouble. They should last, they seem to out last all those Volvos produced.

[Signal1]

Is the volume (capacity) between the Volvo and LR product the same? This would need to be considered if it wasn't; wouldn't it?

[460cixy]

the header tank failed on the defer last night it was an old black one. bottom hose looked a bit tatty so i got one of those too 400 bucks later:mad: im on the road again what a real peice of crap these tanks are

[4bee]

Is the volume (capacity) between the Volvo and LR product the same? This would need to be considered if it wasn't; wouldn't it?

Maybe someone who has changed them could do a 'pour test'.

Best to know this before we all take off to the nearest "Dismantlers".:D

The LR one in my Disc. looks a bit bigger especially on the firewall end, but it's hard to tell by looking at them due to the odd shape.

[Rovernaut]

The Landrover one is a bit bigger.
I took it for a run today in 30 deg heat with the aircon going, Parked for 20 mins with the engine running and aircond going ( did the soccer mom thing picked up kid from school.) and it appeared to be ok.
Is size really important, would have thought if there is room for expansion and a reserve of water then It would be ok. Interesting whilst in the wreckers that most vehicles including V8s only had small expansion tanks. Would be interested in what size Toyos, Patrols etc have in tank size.
I haven't actually compared the volume of volume of liquid in the Landrover one up to its '+' inside the tank to the Max on the Volvo one.

[Rovernaut]

the header tank failed on the defer last night it was an old black one. bottom hose looked a bit tatty so i got one of those too 400 bucks later:mad: im on the road again what a real peice of crap these tanks are
$400????? The tanks are around $120 and the bottom hose would probably be up to $150, How many crayfish meals were included in the price?

[460cixy]

the tank is 175.38 and that stupid hose is 201.25 plus gst makes 414.29 they dont miss you at rolf motors ile give you the hot tip

[Rovernaut]

Maybe someone who has changed them could do a 'pour test'.

Best to know this before we all take off to the nearest "Dismantlers".:D

The LR one in my Disc. looks a bit bigger especially on the firewall end, but it's hard to tell by looking at them due to the odd shape.

Ok I just went out and checked the fuid capacity.
The OEM LR takes 1500ml of fluid to bring it up to the '+' max level inside the tank.
The Volvo one take 1500ml to bring it up to the Max level mark on the outside of the tank.
The Landrover one has a lot more air space above the fluid to allow for expansion, the volvo one has less. But under normal operating I have never had the fluid rise much in the LR one. except for my recent problem.

[Rovernaut]

Rover Radiators have very small tubes, that can block up with tiny bits of rubber,silicone sealant etc etc.
Also have you looked at the fins? Often in old age the fins turn to dust.
If it is in as good condition as you believe, it will take a rodding at AFAIK around $100, not a lot.
If it is bad, you will be up for a $600 core but you may not have to buy any more header tanks.LOL.
Regards Philip A
I pulled the radiator this afternoon and gave it a flush. When I turned it side on so the core was verticle I noticed a lot of stuff floating out with the water. So obviously I have some radiator blockage.
The fins are also damaged in places, crushed from some prevoius contact whilst trying to remove the fan schroud assembly. Might have to look in a replacement when the finances allow.

[Rovernaut]

the tank is 175.38 and that stupid hose is 201.25 plus gst makes 414.29 they dont miss you at rolf motors ile give you the hot tip
A stealership or aftermarket?

[4bee]

Thanks Rovernaut, that certainly helps.:)

[loanrangie]

$400????? The tanks are around $120 and the bottom hose would probably be up to $150, How many crayfish meals were included in the price?

I got my tank with new cap delivered for $117, so you was ripped good.

[4bee]

"..the tank is 175.38 and that stupid hose is 201.25 plus gst makes 414.29 they dont miss you at Ned Kelly Motors ile give you the hot tip.";)

[460cixy]

thats the stealer for you not much in the way of non genuine parts un less i drive across town to a bloke i wont use any more or order them on line and i needed the car going today not in 2 days time

[DowA]

I spoke to a couple of reputable Land Rover parts suppliers here in Adelaide at the time and they pretty firmly shot down the suggestion that the white ones were inherently better than the black ones.

Are either of these close to the city?

[loanrangie]

thats the stealer for you not much in the way of non genuine parts un less i drive across town to a bloke i wont use any more or order them on line and i needed the car going today not in 2 days time

British 4wd deliver next day with very reasonable prices, when mine split i just released the cap and drove it for another 4 days with no problems, just checked the coolant level each day.

[GrahamH]

DowA, I got my SI V8 Disco replacement one from RovParts (Part no PCF101590) and it cost me $110 + GST. RovParts is at 99 Muller Rd, Hamstead Gardens so not really in the city, but Doug couriered it to me (with a drive-shaft doughnut) in Blackwood for a whole $7.50. Doug's very helpful and I have no hesitation in recommending him. (Pricing is from May '07 so may be out of date btw.)

[rrturboD]

I got my replacement tank from Gary4wd. You will find him on EBay and he might be on aulro too. @$75.00 and he delivered!, but he was coming to Canberra anyway. His quoted delivery was reasonable, and I have found him a reliable and reasonable supplier.

[sclarke]

Just a thought.....

make sure the Expansion tank is higher than the radiator... then the Air will want to go to the Expansion tank and not get trapped...

[Rovernaut]

Just a thought.....

make sure the Expansion tank is higher than the radiator... then the Air will want to go to the Expansion tank and not get trapped...
Clarkster, with the Volvo one you will see the expansion in line is actually on the upper most part of the tank. On my fitting it is higher than the radiator.
On the OEM LR ones the expansion line is on the bottom of the tank and If I remember correctly is a little lower than the top of the radiator and it comes from underneath and has to push coolant to escape into the airspace
I went for a long drive in yesterdays afternoon heat and had the aircon running as well. The volvo one held up to the task.
cheers.
Ps at the cheap price they are you could could fit 2 in tandom, LOL

[sclarke]

Clarkster, with the Volvo one you will see the expansion in line is actually on the upper most part of the tank. On my fitting it is higher than the radiator.
On the OEM LR ones the expansion line is on the bottom of the tank and If I remember correctly is a little lower than the top of the radiator and it comes from underneath and has to push coolant to escape into the airspace
I went for a long drive in yesterdays afternoon heat and had the aircon running as well. The volvo one held up to the task.
cheers.
Ps at the cheap price they are you could could fit 2 in tandom, LOL


Thats almost Kinky and heading for the Mudpit... :o:D:D:D:D

[Rovernaut]

Funny, mine is now 15 years old with no problems.

I sometimes wonder whether a slightly leaking sleeve or head gasket may cause the cooling system to pressurise with a high combustion pressure load, like towing a camper uphill on a hot day.

Have to be combined with a malfunctioning pressure bleed in the cap I suppose. But I wonder if the volume becomes too much for the little hole.
The blow off level of the cap should only be reached on "heat soak" after the car is switched off. If ever.
Regards Philip A

Well my modified Volvo Tank blew at the seem at the weekend.
I seem to have a likely exhaust leak into my cooling system that pressurises the system causing my tank blows. It's not over heating, just over pressurised.
:(:(:(:(:(:(:(:(

Looks like I'll have to pull the heads.

[4bee]

Well my modified Volvo Tank blew at the seem at the weekend.

Back to the drawing board then?:eek:

[Tyresqueal]

My tank split and spewed yesterday going onto the beach at Stockton - managed to limp home to Sydney with a couple of water stops. I was thinking pressurised system till I read this thread and found a pretty common problem!

Have to say I'd never heard of tanks splitting before - that's what the cap's pressure release is for - or so I thought!

Anyone got a cheap supplier in NSW????

[Rovernaut]

My tank split and spewed yesterday going onto the beach at Stockton - managed to limp home to Sydney with a couple of water stops. I was thinking pressurised system till I read this thread and found a pretty common problem!

Have to say I'd never heard of tanks splitting before - that's what the cap's pressure release is for - or so I thought!

Anyone got a cheap supplier in NSW????

Karcraft in Sydney has the for about $56.

Before I buy another one I have to fix the cause. So in the mean time I picked up another Volvo one from the wreckers for $5

[Tyresqueal]

Karcraft in Sydney has the for about $56.

Before I buy another one I have to fix the cause. So in the mean time I picked up another Volvo one from the wreckers for 45

Thanks Rovernaut should be running again in no time - cheapest I could find new online was $80.

I think I'll stick with the LR tank, fit a level sensing cap out the RRC, and then do some wiring jiggery-pokery to get a warning lamp or buzzer set up - seeing how this is a weak spot with Discos and all things LR.

[Jeff]

I blew the header tank last night, luckily I heard a hissing under the bonnet and it is only a little split. I m just about to look at it in daylight.

Has anyone tried an alloy one?

Alloy Header Tank for Land Rover, most V8 and all TDI - eBay, Cooling Systems, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 06-May-08 20:44:55 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Alloy-Header-Tank-for-Land-Rover-most-V8-and-all-TDI_W0QQitemZ290225833180QQihZ019QQcategoryZ33599Q QssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Jeff

:rocket:

[4bee]

Looks a nice bit of gear, but from what I can glean from here, something else causes it.

I routinely clean & silicone lubricate both valves in the cap.

A leaking head gasket is something else that I cannot do anything about though.

[rangieman]

I think ill email the Myth Busters;) , Im still running the black expansion tank , 3 years since i bought my Defender , And yes its a everyday driver
I have no idea how long its been on the car , I never loose coolant and i have a engine saver aswell so im not going to follow the sheep:2up:

[PAT303]

I replaced mine after 8 years with a white one and when I bought it they would not give it to me without a new cap.The tanks are splitting because of pressure and that is the caps job.I don't think an alloy tank would help,it would just move the problem to the second weak and probably more expensive point. Pat

[PhilipA]

I am touching wood as I type this but my RRC 3.9 black tank is now 16 years old , with no obvious problem.
I replaced the coolant today with a demineralised water flush.
checked the low water alarm and it is OK.
Maybe it has something to do with having clean coolant in it.
I use Nulon Longlife and change every three or four years, or if I do a headgasket LOL.
Regards Philip A

[Jeff]

I rang my nearby LR guy (Ayers Automotive) and thankfully he was,

1. Open on Saturday.

2. In possession of a white expansion tank and cap.

So I fitted the new tank and hopefully this one will be good for 10 years or 200 000km like the last one.

Jeff

:rocket:

[mike 90 RR]

Ive been reading all this and::

I believe that you can add a dye to the coolant to see if you have a gasket problem
Talk to the head exchange people

Also i had this problem (drives great in the city / boils under load, heavy sand 4wd)
Installed new 4 core radiator / Still happened / Temp gauge registered half then steam everwhere

I had been trying out thermo fans in lue of standard fan

Turned out to be wrong thermostat (was 92c)
Changed thermostat (72c)
Got rid of the thermo fans & went back to originals

Now everthing is rosie

So check that you have the correct tempreture thermostat setting

[PhilipA]

Turned out to be wrong thermostat (was 92c)
Changed thermostat (72c)
Got rid of the thermo fans & went back to originals



Mike, if you really mean 72c and not 82c, I assume your car is a 90RR, then your injection will be adding fuel all time, as it thinks the engine is cold starting. The cut off for warm operation is 80C.

The thermostat if operational has little to do with overheating. the car should run well with an 82C (although I think it is is a bit near to 80c on a cold day), 88C ( which is what was fitted new), or 92 c.

So 72 C is no good for an injected car. OK for carbys though so if my assumption of 90RR is incorrect, ignore me.
Regards Philip A

[Randylandy]

have been reading this thread with great intrest. From what you guys have been saying it looks like this is what has happened to my 300TDi disco. Was towing heavy trailer on a warm day temp gauge was normal whole trip untill it suddenly jumped off the scale. The bonnet lining was soaked with coolant above the tank. I have not had a chance to look at it as had to fly out to QLD the next morning and wont get a chance for a few more weeks, just hope it has not seized the engine like i suspect it may have.

Is this the same tank as what is in the v8?

[LandyAndy]

Yes Randy,same animal.
In a diesel they have huge compression ratios,more than double a petrol mojo.If the head gasket leaks it will blow the weakest link as the cooling system cant handle these pressures.
It seems the bottle in the D1 is the weakest link.Radiators,hoses,etc in other vehicles blow first.
I feel the bottle gets the blame for the failure not the gasket,a case of putting the cart before the horse.
Andrew

[grounded]

where did u get the 72 degree one from. i was told only 82 deg available. too hot up here for that i reckon.

[PhilipA]

Wow, talk about a blast from the past.
But still an ever topical thread.
My old black tank is still going after 18 years now and I went up Stockton in 31C on Sunday with no movement of the temp gauge.

Look Grounded if your cooling system is in good nick it does not really matter the temp of the thermostat as if it going to overheat, the extra 10C between 72 and 82 will last another minute or so in soft sand.
Regards Philip A

[4bee]

I have said this before but it's worth repeating imho. Drone drone drone............................:D

Regular attention should be given to freeing off & lubricating the relief valves in the cap 1 x Pressure relief & 1 x vacuum, the pressure one probably being most important in respect of the blown tank. A squirt of WD40 or similar is all it needs. Often.