Advice please - Camper trailer

[WildOne]

I've been offered an On-road camper made by Camerons Canvas in S.A. Price so far is $1500, canvas is in good nic and comes with extra front awning and side walls for the awning as well as a bit of camping gear.

What would the parts required to convert to tough Off-road camper cost?
Parts required would be
- Heavy Duty axle + hubs to suit D2
- Suitable Leaf spring pack + shockers
- Treg hitch or similar

I would also need to put in a longer Heavier draw bar, say 100 x 50 RHS.

Any advice would be appreciated, not sure wheather it would be worth while buying it and converting it or just buying a suitable trailer from the start.
I'm pretty sure i can get the asking price down a bit more.

Any thoughts?

[Tank]

You will also have to add canvas because if you raise the height for off-road clearance then the canvas will not reach the ground, you should factor that into the overall cost as well, Regards Frank.

[RonMcGr]

Mate,

I would use it as is first.
Trailers are a fairly forgiving thing and will go on most tracks without trouble.

The only thing I'd do it make sure it has leaf springs with shackles and not the type that slide through a slipper at the rear. That one will come undone off road.

With decent leaf springs an a wider wheel/tyre, you should be fine.

As Tank said, changing the clearance will upset the canvas drop.

[Ben_R]

G'Day, I've just done much the same thing.

I bought an old O'Briens Off Road Trailer on ebay.

It needs, new springs, some brakes, new canvas, a vin no. and D2 hubs and wheels

O'Briens gave a rough quote of

-$700 supply and install of electric brakes, D2 hubs and new axle to suit.
-$300 new leaf springs ,supply only, install couldn't be too much

new canvas, cheapy on ebay smaller size maybe $1800+ depending on what size and other bidders.

Add to that 3X D2 rims and tyres.
Add to that an electric brake controller and installation
Add the hassle of getting a vin no. and registering it.
Then I think it's a bit rusty and do I strip it down first and get it all hot dipped galvanised.

After that I'd have a basically rebuilt trailer. But it would still be pretty cheap.

cheers Ben

[RonMcGr]

Here are some pics to identify a few things.

This is a standard on road camper.
http://memweb.newsguy.com/~mcgrice/cav_03.jpg

Notice the space between the back wheel and white mud flap?
It has those slipper springs.

This is one of the off roaders, we used to fit mess on the front to stop stone flicking back on the tow vehicle.
http://memweb.newsguy.com/~mcgrice/cav_01.jpg

Now, if you are any good at wood work, these are great kitchens :D
http://memweb.newsguy.com/~mcgrice/cav_00.jpg

The part with the wash basin just lifts off.
The rest is bolted to the back door.

http://memweb.newsguy.com/~mcgrice/cav_04.jpg

A closer shot.

Cheers

[DiscoDan]

I like the kitchen that comes with the Trak Shak

Trak Shak > Trailer Campers < (http://www.trakshak.com.au/flash/index_flash.shtml)

go to item 3

One can remove it from the tail gate and move it around the camp site.

It is fairly light weight, and had no problems with stability

Oh got the trailer second hand for only $6500

looked at the other options and second hand complete units are the way to go.

[incisor]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/12/82.jpg


I have this sort of thing on my castaway...

[WildOne]

You will also have to add canvas because if you raise the height for off-road clearance then the canvas will not reach the ground, you should factor that into the overall cost as well, Regards Frank.

Good point, i had'nt considered that.:angel:

Cheers, Phill

[WildOne]

Mate,

I would use it as is first.
Trailers are a fairly forgiving thing and will go on most tracks without trouble.

The only thing I'd do it make sure it has leaf springs with shackles and not the type that slide through a slipper at the rear. That one will come undone off road.

With decent leaf springs an a wider wheel/tyre, you should be fine.

As Tank said, changing the clearance will upset the canvas drop.

We're going to borrow it over christmas and try it out before making any decisions, that way we get to have a good long look at it, particularly the condition of the canvas.

Cheers
Phill

[Redback]

I've been offered an On-road camper made by Camerons Canvas in S.A. Price so far is $1500, canvas is in good nic and comes with extra front awning and side walls for the awning as well as a bit of camping gear.

What would the parts required to convert to tough Off-road camper cost?
Parts required would be
- Heavy Duty axle + hubs to suit D2
- Suitable Leaf spring pack + shockers
- Treg hitch or similar

I would also need to put in a longer Heavier draw bar, say 100 x 50 RHS.

Any advice would be appreciated, not sure wheather it would be worth while buying it and converting it or just buying a suitable trailer from the start.
I'm pretty sure i can get the asking price down a bit more.

Any thoughts?


You will also have to add canvas because if you raise the height for off-road clearance then the canvas will not reach the ground, you should factor that into the overall cost as well, Regards Frank.


Tank is spot here, you can't go higher than the height it is, but in saying that, for $1500 that is a bloody good price and modifying the trailer and canvas, it could still be worth converting it to and offroad camper.

The other option is to leave it as an onroad camper, test it out a few times and then when your ready, sell it and buy an offroad camper, i reckon you'd get $3000 easy if it's in good nick, and the money that was intended to modify it with, would just about if not would get you a good second hand offroad camper

Baz.

[DiscoStew]

WARNING: this reply relies heavily on my memory and therefore carries considerable risk :)

If you intend to use it a bit before redoing the springs then it is worth noting some advice contained within a thread ages ago but I cannot find the thread. Probably before the move to the new site. From memory it was from someone up north who has a lot of experience salvaging trailers that had broken on corrugated roads. He strongly recommended that the plate that joins the U Bracket (?) at the end of the leaf to the chassis be at least 150mm x 75mm x 4mm otherwise they tend to break from the vibrations.

Perhaps someone who knows what they are talking about, or who remembers that thread, can be a bit clearer.

I do not know if or how that relates to RonMcGr suggestion about the leaf springs with shackles.

[DiscoTDI]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2007/12/82.jpg


I have this sort of thing on my castaway...

Now your just showing off:p