tyre pressure

[Aaron]

What tyre pressure am I meant to be running in an 02 110 with the standard grabber tyres. On the road. Carrying no load.

[harro]

Off the top of my head the book says 28psi front and about 45psi rear but I run the fronts around 38psi.
At 28psi they look flat and feel like they will roll off the rim when cornering quickly:D.
They are of course bitumen pressures.;)

[datifsimp]

In 03 fender used to run 50psi (with general grabbers), took tyres off 03 and placed on 96 130 after 92000kms :)(yep thats right), have now done 15000kms and am thinking about repacing. Only 1 puncture between Docker river and Ayers rock (repaired and still in use). Those tyres are magic (but exspensive and hard to get in WA). Am still running 50-60 psi in 130. It is a bit harsh but then again it is a Defender!

[Scallops]

What tyre pressure am I meant to be running in an 02 110 with the standard grabber tyres. On the road. Carrying no load.

Mate- didn't solmanic give you the book? The new Defender - which has the same tyres and presumably similar weight, says to put 32 psi in the front and 48 psi in the rear - with no load. I use these pressures and find them fine.

[numpty]

I've asked this before.........and it has never been answered. Why do people put so much more pressure in rear than front, when vehicle is not loaded?

Regardless of what the manuals say (and most people disregard recommended pressures) I run equal pressure front and rear (36lb) when empty and increase pressure in rear, if necessary, when loaded or when towing.

Surely the diesel engine in the front weighs far more than all that light air floating around in an empty rear.;)

[Scallops]

I've asked this before.........and it has never been answered. Why do people put so much more pressure in rear than front, when vehicle is not loaded?

Well, I'm just doing what I'm told :D (by the Defender booklet and by Austral)

[incisor]

i run 32 front and 38 rear,

i much prefer the steering characteristics when there is 6lb difference in both the fender and the disco. every time i have tried equal pressures they feel really odd to drive.

[Aaron]

Scallop - He did give me the book, but it never made sence to run such a high PSI in the rear. But my question has just be answered :)

[Tusker]

I've asked this before.........and it has never been answered. Why do people put so much more pressure in rear than front, when vehicle is not loaded?

Regardless of what the manuals say (and most people disregard recommended pressures) I run equal pressure front and rear (36lb) when empty and increase pressure in rear, if necessary, when loaded or when towing.

Surely the diesel engine in the front weighs far more than all that light air floating around in an empty rear.;)

x2.

What's interesting for a Defender is that unlike most manufacturers, there are no city & highway pressure recommendations. Just 28/40 psi summer & winter, loaded unloaded, on road off road..

Vary according to conditions. Your kidneys, passengers, tyres, stuff loaded, shockers etc will appreciate it.

Regards
Max P

[Scallops]

x2.

What's interesting for a Defender is that unlike most manufacturers, there are no city & highway pressure recommendations. Just 28/40 psi summer & winter, loaded unloaded, on road off road..

Vary according to conditions. Your kidneys, passengers, tyres, stuff loaded, shockers etc will appreciate it.

Regards
Max P

In my handbook - there are different pressures for unloaded, loaded and fully loaded. The unloaded pressures are 32/48psi.

[JDNSW]

Interesting information on the Defender - the 110 County has quite detailed figures, varying with load and speed, and another set for off road, soft conditions.

Varies on road from 35/35 empty below 100kph up to 55/65 fully loaded and above 120kph. I find that 35/35 is good for normal driving empty, and up it to 45/55 fully loaded.

Tyre pressures are always a compromise. Low side is set by damage to tyres, high by ride, and then there is the handling issue - the pressure relative to the load affects the slip angle, and it is usually preferred for the rear to have a better grip than the front; hence the higher pressures unloaded. Not sure why the County has the same pressures front and rear unloaded, but the heavy engine may be a factor or possibly the different tyres, although while that might change the overall pressure slightly, I don't see how it would change the ratio front to back. Most likely the compromises between tyre life, ride and handling have been reassessed, perhaps in response to urging from their insurers!

John

[crump]

I ran the recomended pressures on an outback trip( high speed dirt roads) and the General Grabbers on the rear chipped very badly, with my current tyres which are a lot bigger lugged(muddies) I run them at 32 psi front and rear, loaded or not, and have experienced no chipping or dramas on high speed dirt driving, of which I have done a bit of late.

[numpty]

Interesting, and I will continue to run what I do, as it suits. I have found that with too much air in rear it rides too harsh. FWIW, I don't high speed drive anywhere (personal choice, and no criticism meant or intended) especially on dirt/gravel, and actually slow down and reduce pressures on dirt/gravel. I have experienced chipping on the Grabbers as well, even at the pressures I run, so I reckon it's a tyre thing.

With the Stage 1 and 750/16 Duellers, I ran 36 all round as well, and always got at least 80000 k's from them.

[foz.in.oz]

There is a sticker on the bodywork just under neath the rear drivers side passenger seat that states 28psi in the front and 48psi in the rear. Intersetingly, no matter what you believe and what the tyre dealers tell you, if you have an accident and the police or insurance company test your pressures and they are grossly different to what the manufacturer says, you may be found liable. Ie no insurance payout and/or a prosecution. You have been warned!:wasntme:

[numpty]

There is a sticker on the bodywork just under neath the rear drivers side passenger seat that states 28psi in the front and 48psi in the rear. Intersetingly, no matter what you believe and what the tyre dealers tell you, if you have an accident and the police or insurance company test your pressures and they are grossly different to what the manufacturer says, you may be found liable. Ie no insurance payout and/or a prosecution. You have been warned!:wasntme:

Personally I believe this is bollocks, because there are too many variables involved.

[crump]

Interesting, and I will continue to run what I do, as it suits. I have found that with too much air in rear it rides too harsh. FWIW, I don't high speed drive anywhere (personal choice, and no criticism meant or intended) especially on dirt/gravel, and actually slow down and reduce pressures on dirt/gravel. I have experienced chipping on the Grabbers as well, even at the pressures I run, so I reckon it's a tyre thing.

With the Stage 1 and 750/16 Duellers, I ran 36 all round as well, and always got at least 80000 k's from them.

sorry my mistake,when i say high speed dirt, I'm talking 80 -100kmh dirt roads.;)

[numpty]

Yeah, my speed would be no more than 80 on most dirt roads.

[incisor]

Personally I believe this is bollocks, because there are too many variables involved.
the overall statement foz.in.oz made is true unfortunately going by what i have seen and read.

i have been investigating other issues like tow hitches and load levelers amongst other things and it is obvious beyond all doubt that insurance companies, and more worrying to me, coroners, are apportioning blame / handing down reports more heavily based on manufacturers recommendations (and there are some rippers when it comes to towing.) Coroners have some truly amazing powers, way more than i imagined was the case.... and it appears they are very inclined to enforce manufacturers labels in recent history.