5-main bearing diesel engines

[Quarks]

I have a couple of questions re: this engine, and didn't want to hijack the other thread any more.

Thanks to UncleHo for getting me started on finding out about it:

G'day Lucas :)

The 5 bearing motor is uncommon in Australia, as the only ones that I know of came in with fully built up vehicles,(Station Wagons) as the loally assembled vehicles used up the 3 bearing motors, the 5 arrived about late 1981, and Series sales ended in 82, when the Coil Sprung Vehicles arrived,in 1984, they were only available as V8 or 3.9 Isuzu diesels, they never imported the 4 cylinder motor although it went on in other parts of the world until 1989. part are a little hard to get, as that motor had several changes to the Crankshaft, Flywheel, were 8:1 comp heads, and had a heap of anti-pollution gear on them. this block design eventually became the Turbo diesel, and the 200TDI:) parts are easily available from UK through companies like A.E.Paddock, John Craddock Ltd.


NOTE: the 5 bearing motor will revv quite freely, and when over-revved will throw No4 conrod out of the side of the block:( I have replaced 2 of these motors, same problem, the 3 bearing will shake YOU apart first;) and Yes, the blocks are common shared.

cheers

The series 3 in the garage has one of these, it was dropped in to replace the original 2.25 petrol, I believe in about 1986 - so I am guessing it came out of an 81/82 diesel Station wagon at low k's, rather than as a new engine?

[dobbo]

My Hardtop has one, with original numbers. So whats the deal?

[lro11]

The easiest way to tell if it is a 5 brg engine is the extra casting gussets in the block

[Quarks]

yeah, sorry, was being shuffled off to lunch, so didn't get time to finish dumping my train of thought :( Ok, time to try and get back on track

I checked the numbers, so I know it is one, but I suppose you can't use them to trace it back to what it originally came out of. Can't ask the bloke who swapped it either, he's passed on. :(

I'm really looking for something to read up on them, since I know next to nothing about them, would like an idea of what they're like - apart from overrevving are there any other things to watch out for with them?

Roughly how many k's can you expect to get out of them?
I know mine has a bit over 100k, plus whatever was on it to start with, so how much longer should I expect it to last before I have to get my hands dirty with it? Will mine need anything more than an oil change before trying to run it after 12 years' storage?

With the overrevving & popping the conrod out - I take it this is for both under power and on the overrun? Does it give much warning of when it's about to happen - or is it not something likely to be experienced in normal driving unless you're trying to do it?

You see, all that I can remember about it is that it is quite noisy travelling in the back of a hardtop across the Nullabor at 100kph (and that was from when I was about 4).

Thanks,

[Blknight.aus]

hey if you guys dont want the 5 mains diesel 2.25's I'll swap you my 3 mains 2.25 diesel.....

[UncleHo]

G'day Folks :)

Both the 5 bearings that I had to repair were Petrols, and they both blew up at excess of 120KPH :eek: on the highway:(, in other words they were FLOGGED to DEATH:( it's a pity, as they are a smooth motor, compared to a 3 bearing, as for milage use and what to expect, it depends on the Driver, and how well it is maintained, But I have seen a 3 bearing petrol destroyed in about 5 laps of Warick Farm Race track (NSW) in a conducted trial,the petrol will self destruct at about 5300/5510 RPM

The Series vehicles were designed and built in an era when the British Commercial vehicle speed limit was 30 miles per hour (40kph) so with their low gearing 4.7:1Diffs, a Petrol developing 77BHP @ 4250,would be at maximum speed at 60 miles per hour,and a Diesel developing 55BHP would get about 55MPH max, only with the later 110 coil sprung vehicles with 3.54:1 ratio diffs that they achived good road speed.

In reply to your question about reactivating this engine after 12 years of storage here is a list of this I would suggest to do, clean ALL fuel tanks, and fuel lines,clean and replace ALL Fuel filter elements,clean and get checked the Injectors,particularly if in doubt as to how well they are,clean and replace Oil Filter Element (Ryco R2069p) or genuine type RTC 3184, check and replace Fan Belt, and Radiator hoses,also thermostat (would have siezed with age) If this is in a vehicle replace both Clutch Master ans Slave cylinder kits, also ALL BRAKE KITS master and wheel as well as the Flexible hoses RTC-3353 x3, as a brake failure will be costly,"In a Land-Rover the OTHER vehicle is you Crumple Zone" ;) if the clutch is rusted to the flywheel from humidity, tow the vehicle with the clutch in to break the rust seal, be prepared for the Front Timing Case Oil Seal to start leaking within 1000klms, seal no PR3052, that is about all I can think of at the moment:)

cheers

[Dinty]

G'day All, Mine sat for approx 9 years, with the same H2O in the radiator, engine oil up to the mark, filter had been nicked so it was replaced, dropped fuel out of the tank, replaced some of it, bled the system cracked No1 injector line turned it over and away it went, no bangs rattles squeeks, only a hint of blue smoke from dryed out valve stem oilseals, it has now had rear main bearing oil seal and sump gasket replaced, also valve stem oil seals, but the water pump seal dried out:(, waiting on 1 from the UK (cheaper to buy 2 from over there with postage than 1 down here!!!:o) and with it having under 60,K's it will give me sterling service for many years to come, cheers Dennis:wasntme:
PS even the original battery came up to the mark, it showed it had around 10 volts, took it home, topped fluid level, trickle charge and around 2 weeks later it was bubbling happily, and yes it has been used to start the same engine:D:D

[Quarks]

Thanks guys,

It seems like my 'to do' list just got a bit longer :)

Also good to find out a bit more about these, I haven't seen half as much on these engines as some of the others used around the place.

:)

[Lucas]

The easiest way to tell if it is a 5 brg engine is the extra casting gussets in the block

Lro11,
Anyway of confirming via engine no.

[lro11]

yes very true

[Lucas]

The starting engine nos for the 5 bearing diesel and petrol are as follows.
36100001A - Diesel
99100001A - Petrol

It would appear that mine is not a 5 bearing as my engine no starts with 36------, I was thrown of by the 2.3 badge, which mine does have.
Also I was able to distingish between the 2 by the picture posted mine does not hav the webing on the engine block.

[Quarks]

That's interesting, I checked against this list (http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/engno.htm) which gave me:


361xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 8:1 CR 5-bearing
364xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 7:1 CR 5-bearing
366xxxxxx Series III diesel 2286cc 5-bearing
895xxxxxx Series III diesel 2286cc 3-bearing (fitted to 88 inch airportable for export)
901xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 8:1 CR 3-bearing
902xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 8:1 CR 3-bearing
903xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 8:1 CR 3-bearing
904xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 7:1 CR 3-bearing
906xxxxxx Series III diesel 2286cc 3-bearing
941xxxxxx Series III petrol 2625cc
951xxxxxx Series III petrol 2286cc 3-bearing (fitted to 88 inch airportable)

Since my engine no started with 366, hence I thought it is a 5-main bearing.
:)

[Lucas]

Check page 45 part 7 of the Series 3 manual (electronic version available at start of this). Part 7 contains the 5 bearing suplement.