130 questions from newby

[jimbob]

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G'Day every one, I am new to all things Land Rover including this site. But i just love the things. I am loking ay purchasing a 130 and i know nothing about them. So i was hoping for a little info and advice from all you experienced guys. Firstly is there any inherant problems with any of the diesel engines or the drive lines that came out in them? I do tend to give things a little bit of a hard time with the right foot. I take good care of them servicing wise but just love to give my pride and joy a work out. Secondly what are the suspension set ups like? Some one told me they were 4 wheel independant. If that is true does it limit wheel travel like to hilux ifs etc? One more query what does the 6.5 turbo diesel go like in these? Can you get the gearing right?

Look guys i am very new to these so i dont mean to offend any one with my ignorant questions. Just after any or all info on these sexy machines that i can get my hands on.

Thanks in advance Jim

[spudboy]

Depends on the year you are looking at as to the engine issues. Newer ones have a TD5, so do a search on that, otherwise search on TDi 300. There are quite a few threads comparing these 2 engines.

Telling us how much you're looking at spending would be a good place to start.

They are not independent suspension at all - Front and Rear live beam axles, no matter what year you are looking at.

They are a fabulous drive as long as you get used to the appalling turning circle and the trouble of finding a long park when you go into town.

Cheers
David

[rick130]

OK, where to start.

First up, coils and live (solid) axles all round, not independent.
Flex OK from the factory, with a little work, flex can be great.

Prior to '02, all 130's had a bullet proof rear diff, (known as a Salisbury, it's based on a Dana 60 ) but axles and drive flanges are prone to wear/breakage, but can be upgraded easily. (axles are splined both ends, with a separate bolt on drive flange, unlike flanged one piece full floating assemblies of most other manufacturers) Later (post '02) versions use a weaker CWP.

130 chassis can crack where the upper trailing arm crossmember meets the main rails. I think this just happens to be the major stress point in torsion with the extended wheel base. Those that do crack here have had a hard life.

Front diff is relatively weak, even compared to 79/80/100 Series TLC, as are CV's but most last OK unless 33's+ and a heavy right foot is used.
TLC high pinion can be fitted to Rover housing to beef it up a bit.
Jac McNamarra make a casting to use the Hilux low pinion front diff.

G/box is also (relatively) weak compared to Patrols, etc. but not too bad.

T/case is bloody strong and low range gearing is very good compared to Japanese t/cases.

Engines (Tdi and TD5) can either be really good, or, these days in the case of the TD5, you wished you'd never layed eyes on it as it appears that when they go wrong, they can go wrong in a costly way, but mostly they are really good.

There's been a few 6.5's fitted over the years, and the owners are usually really happy.

We have a Patrol coil cab ute, as well as the 130 Crew Cab, and I prefer to drive the Landy, and it is inherently more capable off road, too. The Patrol's great, and overall is stronger in the driveline, but I reckon the Landy has the edge in chassis strength, and it's a more engaging drive.

[jimbob]

OK, where to start.

First up, coils and live (solid) axles all round, not independent.
Flex OK from the factory, with a little work, flex can be great.

Prior to '02, all 130's had a bullet proof rear diff, (known as a Salisbury, it's based on a Dana 60 ) but axles and drive flanges are prone to wear/breakage, but can be upgraded easily. (axles are splined both ends, with a separate bolt on drive flange, unlike flanged one piece full floating assemblies of most other manufacturers) Later (post '02) versions use a weaker CWP.

130 chassis can crack where the upper trailing arm crossmember meets the main rails. I think this just happens to be the major stress point in torsion with the extended wheel base. Those that do crack here have had a hard life.

Front diff is relatively weak, even compared to 79/80/100 Series TLC, as are CV's but most last OK unless 33's+ and a heavy right foot is used.
TLC high pinion can be fitted to Rover housing to beef it up a bit.
Jac McNamarra make a casting to use the Hilux low pinion front diff.

G/box is also (relatively) weak compared to Patrols, etc. but not too bad.

T/case is bloody strong and low range gearing is very good compared to Japanese t/cases.

Engines (Tdi and TD5) can either be really good, or, these days in the case of the TD5, you wished you'd never layed eyes on it as it appears that when they go wrong, they can go wrong in a costly way, but mostly they are really good.

There's been a few 6.5's fitted over the years, and the owners are usually really happy.

We have a Patrol coil cab ute, as well as the 130 Crew Cab, and I prefer to drive the Landy, and it is inherently more capable off road, too. The Patrol's great, and overall is stronger in the driveline, but I reckon the Landy has the edge in chassis strength, and it's a more engaging drive.

Thanks Guys, What are the new rear diffs fitted like? I am looking to spend some where from 30,000 to 40,000 so i want some thing that i will get some good life out of. Is there much room in the rear seats for the bill lids?
Thanks for the info mate great stuff!!!

[rick130]

the new rear end is as fitted to Pommy army 110's.
It's a modified, strengthened Rover style (spiral bevel) diff.
There have been some bearing issues. Been discussed on here over the last few months.

Kids'd fit fine in the back seat of a Crew Cab, There is more room than the smallish Japanese CC's.

[PAT303]

I don't know about that to weak bit when talking about the drive line.My defender has done alot of work,both offroad and towing and the only thing I have replaced are the drive flanges.I think if you break diff's,axles,G/boxes you need to change your driving style.I was at Modern motors the other day and they are getting long K's(400,000+) out of the older vehicles now,mines near that too and still going very well.With engines I have change oil and filters every 10k and all other fluids every year and belts and hoses every 2 years and don't have problems with it either.My vehicle when compard to my friends Toyota's and Nissan's is better to drive,cheaper to run and has been more reliable but a well looked after and service history is a must as many have been abused and you want to get them cheap or walk away.My thoughts on LR's are they are just as good and better than most in all counts.Just to add I am very seriously looking at a 08 model 130 and a new camper for my family. Pat

[spudboy]

For $30 -40K you will get an extremely good one. Late model + lows Kms.

I paid $21K for a 2002 130 TD5 with 130,000Km on the clock (incl snorkel, winch, LR tanks, strengthened diffs, spotties, etc).

Just make sure it has full service history, as has been pointed out.

[jimbob]

Thanks Pat, That sounds promising.
Spud boy that sounds just like what i am after maybe just a few less ks.

How big is the tray on these. They look at least 1.8m long. Is that in the bal park?

I am just about sold, i just need to find one and take it for a spin. Not so many around Kalgoorlie WA.

[hiline]

Thanks Pat, That sounds promising.
Spud boy that sounds just like what i am after maybe just a few less ks.

How big is the tray on these. They look at least 1.8m long. Is that in the bal park?

I am just about sold, i just need to find one and take it for a spin. Not so many around Kalgoorlie WA.


just measured mine

internal measurement 5ft/8 long and 5ft/5 wide :D
thats a standard HC Ute

[PAT303]

Hey Jimbob my misses is in Kalgoolie for a job interview.It's the second time they have flown her over so they must be keen. Pat

[Dougal]

I only counted four questions, I spent some time looking for the other 126.

For all the things you didn't want to know about the V8 diesels, look here:
6.2/.5 chevy. what are they really like ? - Cummins 4BT Forums (http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php't=2554)

Isuzu 4BD1T is a much better engine.

[jimbob]

Hey Jimbob my misses is in Kalgoolie for a job interview.It's the second time they have flown her over so they must be keen. Pat

Yeah Pat sounds like it. There is a huge skills shortage over here due to the mining boom. Where is she trying to get a job? If you dont mind me asking.

[PAT303]

Nickel west.Is there a rifle range in town? Pat

[jimbob]

you bet Pat, 3.

[jimbob]

Hi Guys, I Have another question [or 2 really] What year did the td5 come out in the defenders? And What year did they remove the centre diff lock in the Defender if they did at all?

Cheers All Jim.

[abaddonxi]

'99 for Td5. All have difflock. Removed Salisbury axle for Rover '02.

Cheers
Simon

[camel_landy]

Remember... The Defender isn't built for comfort or speed.

However, if you want to select your destination by sticking a pin in a map (blindfold), Defender is the car you want to be driving. :D

M

[jimbob]

Cheers Camel, I realise this and really need to take one for a spin to be sure. But i have owned hilux and a cruiser b4 both diesel and non turbo, so i do know what slow vehicles are all about. So thanks mate i will let you all know when i drive one. Thanks again to every ones imput. Very much appreciated.

[spudboy]

Just on a side topic, regarding 130 rear diffs: Some 130's had their standard diffs replaced by Rover with Wolf diffs from the UK.

There were some issues around 2000/2001 with heavily used 130s destroying the std diff, and LR replaced a number with the military equivalent.

My 130 apparently has one of these diffs (according to BigJon), and it also has had extra strengthening ribs welded in a V from the bottom of the banjo to the end of the axle.

Cheers
David