Weaco CF 50 problems

[mcrover]

The Damn weaco is still playing up.

I thought that the aux battery was stuffed but after a better look I found the Piranna system was fried (again) so I repaired that and now got full charge in the aux bat again and Im getting (while running) 13.54v at the fridge socket (on the fridge as the cable is hard wired in) and 13.00v when the compressor cuts in for the few seconds it does before the error light starts flashing.

Now it is 1 flash per 5 seconds so it is voltage related (ive been told) and from what the repair guy I have spoken to has said there is something called a "Poly fuse" on the power supply which is a 5amp and should be changed for a 9amp but what is a poly fuse and where can I get 1 as I dont want to have to fork out $105 for them to do it if I dont have to.

I prefer to do things my self so I know for next time if it happens again but if I cant get one anywhere else that weaco then I may as well get the repair guy to do it.

Does anyone have any ideas please?

[rangieman]

Did you run a earth from your aux battery to the rear socket ,If not this can cause problems :cool:

If all fails flog that plastic junk on ebay and buy a real steel fridge(engle) :wasntme:

[mcrover]

Did you run a earth from your aux battery to the rear socket ,If not this can cause problems :cool:

If all fails flog that plastic junk on ebay and buy a real steel fridge(engle) :wasntme:


Hey Chris, yes my neg runs from the battery to the back in 5mm (I think, looks about that size I didnt fit it) and it is also earthed to the chassis near the trailer plug to supply a good earth for the reverse light and trailer plug.

We looked at Engle and found them to be just as good as a weaco mechanically and I would love to have bugger all electronics but the weaco is 7ltrs bigger for the external size of the fridge, has a dairy cabinet, insulates better and was about $200 cheaper and could be supplied when I wanted it.

We havnt had a great run out of it, as when I got it home and plugged it in the first one didnt work so I had to take it back and get another one which has failed after 2 years.

And now I know what happened to the reciept, the bloke took it to put the warrenty claim through and didnt give it back to me grrrrr:mad:

Amanda and myself turned the house upside down looking for it last night.

[justinc]

My CF50 did this, I just adjusted the slide switch at the bottom to low, as this reduces its voltage sensitivity I am told, to 11volts before switching to fault mode... I have had no problems since.
BTW, Nothing wrong with the plastic ones! I have pounded it a fair bit over the years and still going strong. Not 1 warranty issue.

JC

[mcrover]

Mines been on low since I got it as I run 2 batteries, I dont really care if it drops the deep cycle down to 11v.

I dont think there is really much differance between them other than what the cases are made out of.

I also found the Engle bloke we spoke to was rude and arogant to the point that we walked away from him hating the fact that we had spoken to him.

[PeterM]

Follow the power lead to the socket from the battery, or wherever the power is sourced from. You should find an inline fuse there. Just a thought, what type of socket have you got installed. If it a standard accessories plug the wiring in it will not be adequate for the current required. It will get pretty damn hot and can cause voltage drops like you are experiencing.

I've got a 42L Waeco and it hasn't missed a beat. I installed the power socket myself and so far so good. Only running a single battery so keep the battery protection on high.

[agrojnr]

My CF50 did this, I just adjusted the slide switch at the bottom to low, as this reduces its voltage sensitivity I am told, to 11volts before switching to fault mode... I have had no problems since.
BTW, Nothing wrong with the plastic ones! I have pounded it a fair bit over the years and still going strong. Not 1 warranty issue.

JC

Did the same thing as Justin before I even started using it as the manual says to do this if offroading
I ran my CF50 for 3 days offroading in 40 deg heat in the back of my 130 and it never missed a beat

Adam

[agrojnr]

Mines been on low since I got it as I run 2 batteries, I dont really care if it drops the deep cycle down to 11v.

I dont think there is really much differance between them other than what the cases are made out of.

I also found the Engle bloke we spoke to was rude and arogant to the point that we walked away from him hating the fact that we had spoken to him.

Have you tried running the unit with the 240v inverter on it but in your car and not the house??????
Just wondering if an inverter would have the same problem as they are fused anyway

PS Engle's are crap


Adam

[mcrover]

Follow the power lead to the socket from the battery, or wherever the power is sourced from. You should find an inline fuse there. Just a thought, what type of socket have you got installed. If it a standard accessories plug the wiring in it will not be adequate for the current required. It will get pretty damn hot and can cause voltage drops like you are experiencing.

I've got a 42L Waeco and it hasn't missed a beat. I installed the power socket myself and so far so good. Only running a single battery so keep the battery protection on high.

Thanks for your reply but....



The Damn weaco is still playing up.

I thought that the aux battery was stuffed but after a better look I found the Piranna system was fried (again) so I repaired that and now got full charge in the aux bat again and Im getting (while running) 13.54v at the fridge socket (on the fridge as the cable is hard wired in) and 13.00v when the compressor cuts in for the few seconds it does before the error light starts flashing.
Now it is 1 flash per 5 seconds so it is voltage related (ive been told) and from what the repair guy I have spoken to has said there is something called a "Poly fuse" on the power supply which is a 5amp and should be changed for a 9amp but what is a poly fuse and where can I get 1 as I dont want to have to fork out $105 for them to do it if I dont have to.

I prefer to do things my self so I know for next time if it happens again but if I cant get one anywhere else that weaco then I may as well get the repair guy to do it.

Does anyone have any ideas please?


Have you tried running the unit with the 240v inverter on it but in your car and not the house??????
Just wondering if an inverter would have the same problem as they are fused anyway

PS Engle's are crap


Adam

Im waiting on a mate to bring an inverter around but im not sure if his will put out enough wattage to drive the fridge as it's only a little one and if Im to go out and buy an inverter I may as well pay to get the fridge fixed.

I mainly want to know what the Poly Fuse is and if I can buy them over the counter or if it can be bypassed or replaced with something else?

[agrojnr]

Give Battery world a ring

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Adam

[mcrover]

I know where Im going tomorrow :D

Langwarrin Cnr Cranbourne Rd & McClelland Dr (03) 9789 3640

[Bulldog]

A poly fuse is just a fuse that cuts out at a certain current, it doesn't blow like a normal fuse, but may stay "off" for a little while before resetting.

It could be replaced with a piece of wire (like any fuse can) but probably won't work like a fuse anymore ;). It will probably be soldered onto the circuit board if its the type i'm thinking of.

They do come in different current ratings, and they are very cheap (under a dollar from memory) although a repairman would charge a tad more i think :twisted:. It (could be) a rould yellow flat thing the size of a 5, 10 or 20 cent coin (if its the type i'm thinking of).

I use them at work. We have a few current ratings (can't remember them). If you think you need one, PM me and i'll check the current ratings on them and send you a few.

[Bulldog]

Also, i started a Waeco CF-50 thread a few weeks ago that had some good info in it to.

I've since run heavy wiring including -ve to the sockets and put a merrit socket in.

Haven't had a chance to test it out yet...

[mcrover]

A poly fuse is just a fuse that cuts out at a certain current, it doesn't blow like a normal fuse, but may stay "off" for a little while before resetting.

It could be replaced with a piece of wire (like any fuse can) but probably won't work like a fuse anymore ;). It will probably be soldered onto the circuit board if its the type i'm thinking of.

They do come in different current ratings, and they are very cheap (under a dollar from memory) although a repairman would charge a tad more i think :twisted:. It (could be) a rould yellow flat thing the size of a 5, 10 or 20 cent coin (if its the type i'm thinking of).

I use them at work. We have a few current ratings (can't remember them). If you think you need one, PM me and i'll check the current ratings on them and send you a few.


Thanks heaps Pete, I'll crack it open tomorrow and see what I find and let you know from there.

I know my supply is good as I have tested it with a different 6mm cable going direct to both batteries (at different times) and It doesnt drop below 13v when it does run so Im about 90% sure it's the fridge and the repair man was very helpful in telling me it was this poly fuse that id never heard of before.

He recons that 9amp is the way to go so I will open her up and see if I can bypass it tomorrow and test it to see if thats the problem.

[feraldisco]

Did you run a earth from your aux battery to the rear socket ,If not this can cause problems :cool:

If all fails flog that plastic junk on ebay and buy a real steel fridge(engle) :wasntme:

I've heard some people say to run an earth from the battery; others say from the chassis - presumably it can't hurt to run from both at the same time?

[Chucaro]

My Waeco CF-50 is 3 years old and for 2 years I used continuously in the motorhome.
The only problem with them is electronic controlled thermostat. I replaced it by one of the old models (a knob) and runs very good.
The serviceman who sales and repairs Engels, Waecos and Evakool told me that if one day I get another one to go for the Evakool. No electronics on them.

[agrojnr]

When I ran mine for 3 days straight I just had one of those extension cig points they sell in super crap and hard wired that to the 2nd battery no prob

Adam

[llandro]

Here is a link to Danfoss tech. info. There may be something of assistance. At least you can see what the flashing lamp code is.

www.sundanzer.com/PDF/Danfoss_Electronics_Specs.pdf

llandro

[llandro]

Made some sort of stuff up there.
Should end up:
Danfoss_Electronic_Specs.pdf
I have the site on my fav. list, comes up ok there.
llandro

[mcrover]

Made some sort of stuff up there.
Should end up:
Danfoss_Electronic_Specs.pdf
I have the site on my fav. list, comes up ok there.
llandro

Still not working mate, well not for me anyways :(

[njz]

try:
http://www.sundanzer.com/PDF/Danfoss_Electronic_Specs.pdf

[Bulldog]

Mine new cables look to be about 7-8mm which replaced the old 4mm (positive only).

This is testing my electronics knowledge a bit, but having 13v at the fridge might not always mean that the wiring can handle 7 or 8 amps. I would assume the voltage would drop under load (when the compressor is running) which is when all these tests should be done, but it may simply be that a poor connection somewhere is limiting the max current to maybe 3 amps, therefore an error shows on the fridge. Someone else might be able to explain this a bit better...

My Waeco CF-50 thread is here:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/48903-why-isnt-my-fridge.html

[allan l]

I've got a mate who had exactly the same symptoms. Upgraded wiring and plug. Still shows the error lamp. Tried the fridge in another car, still showed the error lamp (this being a car which also runs the same model Waeco without any probs.).

Was told by Waeco tech that polyfuse was the problem. Fortunately still under warranty - replaced free of charge. Works well now!

[Disco_owner]

Have you tried running the unit with the 240v inverter on it but in your car and not the house??????
Just wondering if an inverter would have the same problem as they are fused anyway

PS Engle's are crap


Adam


Agro

I have had an Engel for 5 Years,in fact 40L and never had any issues with my Engel Fridge , worked a treat at Cape york , on the other hand my mate with a Toymota has a Waeco and his is on his 2nd Waeco replacement from new !!!

[mcrover]

Ok, tests today have shown:

holding 12.54v under load (compressor running) with engine not running.
holding 13v with engine running, same load.
Got to 13.84v with engine running for 20mins or so
Compressor cutting in and out and the red light flashing.
Works great on 240v

Im taking it down on Monday to see about getting it fixed under warrenty even though I dont have my proof of purchase that they are asking for but it is only 2 years old and has been great until this.

If they wont fix it under warrenty then I shall buy an inverter for the weekend and then work out fixing it after that.

[agrojnr]

If the red light is flasing on the Waeco then its not getting enough power.

Mine did that when I first installed my dual battery system until I ran the earth for the dual battery system to the chassis and not a panel.


Disco owner everyone I have talked about with engles said that had trouble with them but like you I also know people that had problems with the waeco but my unit is 4 years old now and has not missed a beat


Adam

[mcrover]

If the red light is flasing on the Waeco then its not getting enough power.
Mine did that when I first installed my dual battery system until I ran the earth for the dual battery system to the chassis and not a panel.


Disco owner everyone I have talked about with engles said that had trouble with them but like you I also know people that had problems with the waeco but my unit is 4 years old now and has not missed a beat


Adam


Or the poly fuse is stuffed.......:mad:

Has anyone got a schmatic of the electronics on the CF 50 with the LED readout?

I think Ive found what the poly fuse is (kinda looks like a tiny pizo buzzer about the size of a 5c piece) but Im not sure so I need either the schematic or a componant break down of whats on the board to suss it out and then I might be able to tell Bulldog what I need :D