View Full Version : Axle Construction
Stepho_62
20th January 2008, 07:48 AM
:rulez:Now Mods, B4 u move, delete, edit or whatever my post I've stuk it in here because I rekon I'm going to get the benefit of the learned mechanical folk like Dave, Justin, etc etc etc. So move it only if u have to Pleeeeeeeeezzzzzzzeeee:TakeABow:
Now to the detail. I own a camper with an alco rubberised suspension in it. Because I live in NQ now my wife and I will be taking advantage in the next few years and exploring the top end of the continent as much as possible. I've heard som horror stories about some tracks (CSR for example) and can clearly remember 25 years ago what a territorian called a good road :eek:.
Does any of you professional mechanical folk have experience with these axles and have a feel for how they handle the ruff stuff?
One thing I'd like to do to it is fit shock absorbers as it would suppress the bounce.
Thanks in advance, see pic below.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b165/Woger_Wabbit/Camper/2006_1217Image0002.jpg
Oh and I'd like to change the stubs, rims to match Princess Fiona so I only have to carry 2 spares.
Lotz-A-Landies
20th January 2008, 08:26 AM
...Oh and I'd like to change the stubs, rims to match Princess Fiona so I only have to carry 2 spares.
Can't help much about the previous stuff, and I'm a novice with Disco models - but here goes.
I am thinking that a 1998 Disco 300tdi is still the first Disco series - before Disco II.
If it is a Disco 1 the wheel stud pattern (PCD) is the same as the traditional Land Rover and Defender etc.
Alko (who probably made the brakes on your trailer) have drum/hubs drilled in the Defender pattern to suit all their stub axles. They may need to be ordered in by your local trailer supplies store.
If yours is a Disco 2 it has a smaller PCD (same as the Holden Commodore/Range Rover P38a etc) that are not made in the Land Cruiser bearings type hub.
Diana
discowhite
20th January 2008, 08:42 AM
you WILL not have a problem with the alko IRS axle.
read the first page.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-vans-campers/32210-130hcpu-camper-trailer-build.html
i dont think shocks will help, it need more weight in the trailer.
my trailer empty is bouncy, but full of my camping gear and its perfect.
cheers phil
discowhite
20th January 2008, 08:45 AM
what size are the trailer's wheels and tyres??
if they are smaller than the fenders than your camper canvass may not reach the ground!
cheers phil
ps. lotza is right about the hubs thing.
weeds
20th January 2008, 08:52 AM
Now to the detail. I own a camper with an alco rubberised suspension in it. Because I live in NQ now my wife and I will be taking advantage in the next few years and exploring the top end of the continent as much as possible. I've heard som horror stories about some tracks (CSR for example) and can clearly remember 25 years ago what a territorian called a good road :eek:.
i know nothing about suspension, but i think CSR stands for canning stock route travelling mostly through the centre of WA...not quite the top end
this is a trip that i am keen on, currently reading a book 'Australian Geographic...the canning stock route'
mcrover
20th January 2008, 08:57 AM
I have only ever seen 1 failure that was contributed to one of these type axels and I have never seen one fail as such.
It was on a home made off road camper (done pretty well from all accounts) but where it was bolted to the chassis wasnt strengthened enough and cracked the chassis on a corregated road and came to us on a tow truck to be fixed properly as it was welded up in a few small country towns on the trip but kept breaking due to all the stresses being only over a small portion of the chassis.
I think they are pretty good, I do think that shocks would be of a bennifit but they do ride softer than most other set ups and as said before, the load helps but in the situations where you are going to bounce it over something (spoon drain or a washaway or that pot hole you didnt see at 120kmh) then you will be happy you fitted the shocks.
Stepho_62
20th January 2008, 09:13 AM
Alko (who probably made the brakes on your trailer) have drum/hubs drilled in the Defender pattern to suit all their stub axles. They may need to be ordered in by your local trailer supplies store.
Diana
Diana
Are you saying that ALKO will have hub and drum assemblies that are the same PCD as my Defender ?
Meaning i can strip it down to the axle stub, put the bearings into the newly supplied hub, fit the new brake drums, and then pop on my yet to be purchased allow RR rims?????? :eek:
If so, then :BigThumb: :D:BigThumb: :D:BigThumb: :D:BigThumb: :D
D'oh, i never even thought of asking ALKO,
Slunnie
20th January 2008, 05:53 PM
Thats correct. Also know what axle cross section type/size or bearing type you need when you order the hub.
I recall a thing with Vic Widman, and he was saying that it doesn't seem to matter what type of suspension you use on trailers when offroad, but the ones with shocks are the ones that hang together.
CSR is Canning Stock Route.
Blknight.aus
20th January 2008, 06:49 PM
before you start with all of that theres some things you should check on before you start out spending the $$$
how does it sit behind the vehicle now when its loaded as you would be towing it?
Is the current rim offset going to keep the trailer in the rovers wheel tracks and will the rover rims do the same?
is the current rubber the same size as whats on fiona? if it is you could also go the option of just carrying the spare carcases which are lighter and can have other things stored inside them and use that as an excuse to get a Tyre pliers tyre changing and repair kit....
Putting shockies on camper trailers is an art form... if you put on shockies that are too stiff it will crack stuff from the shockies dampning the movement too much when its empty as the trailer will simply bounce. Too soft and it will be great empty but will wallow all over the shop when loaded.....
Alko do make the right hubs to suit rover hubs but you need to also get the drum to suit. Im not sure if they have all drums for the rover hub so you might also be up for the backing plate which if its been welded might be a PITA to sort.
But its a good idea to have the rubber the same size regardless of which rims you run and its a better idea to have them all interchangeable.
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