What would be your choice?

[Chucaro]

Ok, forget the County, its require heaps of work so two different options for which I will need the input of the Rangie experts
Please explain to me which is better transmission system regarding transfer case or lower range :the 88 or the 89 ?
If both are in similar condition what would be your pick ?

1988 RANGE ROVER HI-LINE 4X4 WAGON , 3.5litre V8 Efi Automatic 4 Speed , Air-Conitioned, Power Steer, Power Windows, Central Locking, Velour Trim, Factory Alloy Wheels, Tow Bar, Bull Bar. Motor - Transmission - All Running Gear Is Good, Runs and Drives Very Well , WHOLESALE AS TRADED...$1750...

1989 RANGE ROVER VOGUE 4X4 WAGON , 3.5litre V8 Efi ,Manual, 5 Speed , Sunroof, Air-Conitioned, Power Steer, Power Windows (tinted), Central Locking, Cruise Control, Velour Trim, Factory Alloy Wheels, Tow Bar, Bull Bar, Runs and Drives Very Well, Good Condition Through-Out. WHOLESALE AS TRADED ...$2250...

[timaus13]

I may be biased. but after hearing what Justin C has said about the 5 speed versus the four speed I personally would go with the 4 speed model. Carlos has decided to also go with a 4 speed replacement in his RRover as opposed to re building or replacing his 5 speed.
Justin C explained to us how much stronger the 4 speed is over the 4 speed, however he did mention that for long distance driving the 5 peed would be a greater advantage.
cheers.
:D

[Chucaro]

I may be biased. but after hearing what Justin C has said about the 5 speed versus the four speed I personally would go with the 4 speed model. Carlos has decided to also go with a 4 speed replacement in his RRover as opposed to re building or replacing his 5 speed.
Justin C explained to us how much stronger the 4 speed is over the 4 speed, however he did mention that for long distance driving the 5 peed would be a greater advantage.
cheers.
:D

Yes I agree with you, but remember that the 88 is 4 speed automatic, not manual :eek:
So it is the 89 5 speed manual or the 88 4 speed auto ?
Cheers

[Blknight.aus]

for me thats a simple choice, take the manual.....

in reality both of those boxes are up to the task if in good nick...

the auto takes more to rebuild but doesnt have the "eats its own bearings" problem that occasionally shows up on the lt85 or the "eats its overdrive" problem of the LT77.

I wouldnt want much more than a stock EFI 3.9 in front of either.

[Chucaro]

for me thats a simple choice, take the manual.....

in reality both of those boxes are up to the task if in good nick...

the auto takes more to rebuild but doesnt have the "eats its own bearings" problem that occasionally shows up on the lt85 or the "eats its overdrive" problem of the LT77.

I wouldnt want much more than a stock EFI 3.9 in front of either.

It is not the case that the 89 models do not have transfer case ?
If it is so, you still prefer the manual against the automatic with transfer case ?
I am learning here :) My only experience with Landys is my old 109 1978 V8 and my current disco 1998 manual Tdi300

[PLR]

G`Day

The 89 has a different transfer case , it is the one with the viscous drive . ( this goes for manual and/or auto from this model )

This means you don`t lock the centre diff manually .

The 88 is the last model to have manual engage for the centre diff .

Other than interior ( door trims etc ) and the tranfer case types the 88 and 89 are similar .

The next model got 3.9 ltr

Cheers

[Blknight.aus]

All landrovers (not including freelanders) have a transfer case. Most have a varient of the lt230 Or the chain drive unit with the planetry gearshift for effectin a range change.

My reasons for always taking a manual over an auto are all my own and have been done to death.

to boil down the way Id weight it in your situation

a manual is generally cheaper to rebuild than an auto and will keep working in most circumstances enough to get you home. although you might need to do some nastyness to it and will be killing it in making it keep goin.

an auto is smoother and easier to drive, if looked after can outlast a manual but costs a bucket to repair and in most cases will stop completely when it goes wrong.

as mentioned the 89 has the viscous coupling which does the job of the CDL till it stops working then you just drop the tcase and put a standard 230 or similar on...

[Bradtot]

89 have the viscous transfer case, borg warner chain driven, very quiet
88 will have the lt 230 manual locking centre diff normal type.
I have the 89 4 speed auto with borg warner.
Previously I had a 82 4 speed manual with intregrated transfer.
What do I prefer...easy the auto, smooth plenty of torque easy to drive less clunks quiet operation and strong enough.
The manuals are ok but the auto is just that much better.
Also U need to consider the trim inside as the 89 was updated in jan of 89 and also the motor about mid 89 with the 3.9 motor and hotwire injection, with this came hidden door hinges as well.
I loved my 82 ,but I adore the 89
Brad

[Chucaro]

I am confused
The dealer said in the add that the 1989 range Rover have a 3.5 V8 engine.
Is it not the case that in 1989 the Range Rover come with the 3.9 engine?
Could it be possible that the dealer is referring to the date of first registration and not to the date of manufacturing?
Ok, let us assume that it is a 1989 with 3.5 engine. In which date of manufacturing the Range Rover comes with the Borg-Warner 13-61-004 2 speed transfer case with viscous coupling unit (VCU)?
The viscous coupling is my worry and for this reason I was considering the automatic Rangie in the add (grey paint). I prefer the manual if it doesn’t have VCU

[Chucaro]

ops, sorry, I posted my previous reply when the others come in :)
The (VCU) is whit the automatic only ?

[Blknight.aus]

from memory 89 was when the borq warner chain and viscous coupling transfer case came out and it was 90 that the 3.9's started coming in.

as the 3.9 is the same block as the 3.5 its easy to repower with a 3.9 so if its advertised as a 3.9 it might well be.

my comment about having the efi3.9 wasnt to indicate what was in them but more on the biggest engine that youd want in front of the gearboxes.

[Bradtot]

I have a Jan 89 auto rangie with viscous borg warner 2 speed transfer and 3.5 flapper injection.
Build date was 88
As I said above mid 89 was when we got the 3.9 and hotwire injection.
Its easy to see by the hi/lo transf lever
straight up and down is viscous
up down and across to the left is lt 230.
Why are you worried about the viscous?
Mine has done 355000k and still ok along with the auto.
I know u can have problems but this goes for anything.
2 grand or thereabouts to rebuild auto and about 1500 for the borg warner.
The bad part of the viscous case is the viscous unit app 1 hr to replace and new from the UK about $900.00.
I have 2 transfer cases as spares both borg warners 1 from ebay and one from the Bin at a repair place. So they are availible second hand. I will rebuild one soon so I have it ready when the day comes.
Brad

[Cap]

Ive read plenty about the lt95's atking much bigger engines as they are pretty tough little boxes :)

[Chucaro]

Ok, I find some info that I hope it is applicable to Oz
1988 link: 1988 Range Rover (http://www.rangerovers.net/modelspecs/1988.html)

1989 link: 1989 Range Rover (http://www.rangerovers.net/modelspecs/1989.html)

Cheers

[GuyG]

What do you have against the viscous coupling unit? My rangie which is a 90 model has the 3.9 and also came with the vc and zf auto. It worked fine for me off road, its demise was not the workings of it but the fact that I landed on a rock on the handbrake drum which in turn broke the vc housing but it would've broken what ever housing was there. I wouldn't of changed it if I hadn't broken it.

Its now got a LT230 fitted. Really depends on what sort of offraoding you want to do, the auto doesn't have engine braking which is something I certainly miss from the old 4sp in my 2 door, but i find 4wding easier as you are able to concentrate more on the lines you take (I did have a holley in the 2 door which created additional problems), others find the auto changes faster if you're doing a lot of beach work

[Chucaro]

Thanks I really appreciate all the info. I was under the impression that the VCU have a very short life and expensive to maintain. Then again the parts from the Rangies are very cheap now and all of us can see that we can get a complete car for $ 2000 from which one can harvest very cheap spares.

[Rangier Rover]

HI, my RANGIE is 89 With 3.5 ZF4hp and bloody Viscuis. The viscuis is prone to weilding its self (Works on heat) and then binds on black top and causes bad L/100,Kills Tyres and in most cases CV's fail. 88 and 89 also run lighter CV's. The ZF4hp is a good box if well cared for. Im going for ZF4hp, LT230 with pre 86 CV's and fine spline axles. This is a better standard set up.
Remember what ever you get in the classics can be swaped and changed to your needs. They say Between 86 and 89 are the pick of them as a simple base to work from and have a nice interior. The late classic have to many gizmo's to be as reliable. This can be fixed though. I hope the 89 is a 3.9 as they are an improvement on 3.5
89's came out with both 3.5 and 3.9.

[PLR]

I am confused
The dealer said in the add that the 1989 range Rover have a 3.5 V8 engine.
Is it not the case that in 1989 the Range Rover come with the 3.9 engine?
Could it be possible that the dealer is referring to the date of first registration and not to the date of manufacturing?
Ok, let us assume that it is a 1989 with 3.5 engine. In which date of manufacturing the Range Rover comes with the Borg-Warner 13-61-004 2 speed transfer case with viscous coupling unit (VCU)?
The viscous coupling is my worry and for this reason I was considering the automatic Rangie in the add (grey paint). I prefer the manual if it doesn’t have VCU

G`day ,
the best way to work out what your looking at and what it came with from the factory is with the VIN

SALLHABV1AA******

The second last letter ( A )tells the model but generally both the last two letters are used ( AA ).

The number before these tell the drive side and gearbox ( 1 )

The letter before tells the engine type ( V )

The 88 model your looking at will be an EA model and 3 is auto RHD and the L is 3.5 efi engine .... SAL****L3EA###### Which is 87/88 yrs

The 89 model your looking at will be an FA model and 7 is 5spd man RHD and the L is also 3.5 efi engine ... SAL****L7FA###### which is 88/89

The GA model came with the M 3.9ltr and the transfer code isn`t in the VIN ... SAL****M*GA###### which is 89/90 yrs

Cheers

[Chucaro]

Ok, I rang the dealer and the grey Rangie advertised as 1988 comes from the factory in 7/1987 and was registered

[lokka]

Ive read plenty about the lt95's atking much bigger engines as they are pretty tough little boxes :)

Wouldent call em a little box either :D:D:D

MY choice of a rangie would be a late 84 or early 85 simple and easy to sort out no fancy EFI with flaps theres a name for things with flaps and it suits the rangie early EFI system :D:D:D:D

[p38arover]

for me thats a simple choice, take the manual.....


I wouldnt want much more than a stock EFI 3.9 in front of either.

I'd take the '88 auto with the LT230 transfer case. The ZF is a good box. I had no problems with my '86 RR and it had an EFI 3.5 bored and stroked to 4.6 in front of it.

The 3.9 of the '89 and the better switch gear would be nice, though.

[Rangier Rover]

I'd take the '88 auto with the LT230 transfer case. The ZF is a good box. I had no problems with my '86 RR and it had an EFI 3.5 bored and stroked to 4.6 in front of it.

The 3.9 of the '89 and the better switch gear would be nice, though. 4.6:angel:ZF4hp/LT230/ Fine Spline axles/Pre 86 CV's.:D:D:D

[Chucaro]

I worked out all the costs involved in purchasing the Rangie or a County then I added a sum for allowing unforeseen problems. Then I considered how much I can get for my Disco (less than $ 15000)which is in a very good condition.
After all that I arrived to the conclusion that the best option is do up the Disco in the way that I like it and do not worry much about the lost in depreciation because the wear after using it on the bush.
If I invest $ 5.000 in my disco I will still in front.
Cheers

[Rangier Rover]

I worked out all the costs involved in purchasing the Rangie or a County then I added a sum for allowing unforeseen problems. Then I considered how much I can get for my Disco (less than $ 15000)which is in a very good condition.
After all that I arrived to the conclusion that the best option is do up the Disco in the way that I like it and do not worry much about the lost in depreciation because the wear after using it on the bush.
If I invest $ 5.000 in my disco I will still in front.
Cheers
$5000?:eek: Believe me, does not go far. Double it!:D. Then ad half again:o

[Chucaro]

$5000?:eek: Believe me, does not go far. Double it!:D. Then ad half again:o
Mate depends in what are you are going to do with your Landy.
Standard is a very capable vehicle, so my Disco have king springs (40mm raised) Bilstein shocks, front diff protector, so if I add $ 2000 for a pair of Truetrac and axles, I still have $ 3000 to blow in what? Perhaps a winch and snorkel and that it is the end of it.
Rock sliders and bottom protection I can make them myself for nicks.
Yes I know, some people blow thousand in body lift and suspension but to me it is unnecessary. I trust the capabilities of the Land Rovers for what I like to do.
Cheers
PS: here we going again, a new thread "How to blow the money in add ons" :D
Who will start it ? :twisted:

[Cap]

If you want to know how money can be spent, you should see a Fender down here, it HAS EVERYTHING!!! I dont know how much he spent on it (plus a fancy trailer too), but its got to be $20k of accessories, if not more!

[IWANNAOLDRANGIE]

I'd personally go for the manual......... auto's can be extremely costly to repair.......and what kind of work do you want to do with it???? towing or sand I'd say the manual for sure

[Blknight.aus]

Mate depends in what are you are going to do with your Landy.
Standard is a very capable vehicle, so my Disco have king springs (40mm raised) Bilstein shocks, front diff protector, so if I add $ 2000 for a pair of Truetrac and axles, I still have $ 3000 to blow in what? Perhaps a winch and snorkel and that it is the end of it.
Rock sliders and bottom protection I can make them myself for nicks.
Yes I know, some people blow thousand in body lift and suspension but to me it is unnecessary. I trust the capabilities of the Land Rovers for what I like to do.
Cheers
PS: here we going again, a new thread "How to blow the money in add ons" :D
Who will start it ? :twisted:

Ive always held a firm belief that a disco 1 with 2 inches of spring lift to allow it to run 7.5r16 rubber is about as much as you really need in a rover to go most places where it gets to much for that route selection comes into play and you just go around. That said all rovers make excellent platforms for a starting point to go stupid with big budgets. Always maked me laugh when guys brag about $3000 suspension jobs just to get to where my near stock disco used to go only to find out that my disco was near stock and that I was thinking about dropping some $$$ to make it go better.....

[dungarover]

Out of the 2 I would pick the 88 Auto with the LT230 unit.

The 89 has some advantages in the trim department, but it's a manual (I hate changing gears) and it has viscous coupling. Nothing wrong with VC transfers but personally I like to select what I need, not have it done for me.

If you stretched your brass a bit further, my pick would be the 90-91 non ABS Vogue Rangies. These are nearly spot on as far as comfort and good all-round package can go plus no expensive ABS brakes, electric seats or sunroofs to **** themselves either. For DIY and simplicity, like lokka mentioned the 84 Ph2-85 dunga spec (no electrics, etc..) are the go.

Trav