shorty943
23rd January 2008, 12:45 PM
Dave, and others interested, I have the photo's I mentioned last night.
gb1 - the both units side by side.
Normal there.
gb2 & 3 - show the original truck mounting bracket, and the drive flange on the gearbox output shaft.
The brake is removed, there is a pretty heavy look to that rear end plate.
It should take the pressure OK, and I can always fabricate up some helper brackets to mount to the original places.
gb4 - is the right side of the box showing the selector system.
Rocking shaft on the side for in and out of gear, crescent arm translates to side to side movement of the gear lever. Just like a Road Ranger gearbox.
I'll use the original truck gear lever tower (just visible to the right of the photo) to reconnect that up. This will also carry all the fulcrums for the transfer case levers.
This may give a better idea of what I am trying to achieve.
I want to bolt the Landies t\case, to the back of the Daihatsu gearbox.
It's that gearbox drive gear I really need, but, a whole other box set would be handy, just in case I go boo boo.:angel:
If I can "graft" the Landy output shaft gear, onto the Daihatsu drive flange, all in line of course, and then "simply" bolt the t\case back as she was on the Landy gearbox, all is good for me.
2.8 ltr diesel, 5 speed gearbox, and the Landy 4WD system. Nearly double the horsepower, with pretty much the same engine peak revs, more torque, an overdrive for that relaxed 95 KPH feeling. That's all I want. Just to be able to get up normal hills in top gear.
Because of electrical system incompatibilities, I even have to replace the entire Landy wiring system, the truck alternator also carries the brake vacuum pump on the end of its shaft, must have that.
Chuck a lucky rock, in the lucky hole, in the lucky tree, for me will you?
gb1 - the both units side by side.
Normal there.
gb2 & 3 - show the original truck mounting bracket, and the drive flange on the gearbox output shaft.
The brake is removed, there is a pretty heavy look to that rear end plate.
It should take the pressure OK, and I can always fabricate up some helper brackets to mount to the original places.
gb4 - is the right side of the box showing the selector system.
Rocking shaft on the side for in and out of gear, crescent arm translates to side to side movement of the gear lever. Just like a Road Ranger gearbox.
I'll use the original truck gear lever tower (just visible to the right of the photo) to reconnect that up. This will also carry all the fulcrums for the transfer case levers.
This may give a better idea of what I am trying to achieve.
I want to bolt the Landies t\case, to the back of the Daihatsu gearbox.
It's that gearbox drive gear I really need, but, a whole other box set would be handy, just in case I go boo boo.:angel:
If I can "graft" the Landy output shaft gear, onto the Daihatsu drive flange, all in line of course, and then "simply" bolt the t\case back as she was on the Landy gearbox, all is good for me.
2.8 ltr diesel, 5 speed gearbox, and the Landy 4WD system. Nearly double the horsepower, with pretty much the same engine peak revs, more torque, an overdrive for that relaxed 95 KPH feeling. That's all I want. Just to be able to get up normal hills in top gear.
Because of electrical system incompatibilities, I even have to replace the entire Landy wiring system, the truck alternator also carries the brake vacuum pump on the end of its shaft, must have that.
Chuck a lucky rock, in the lucky hole, in the lucky tree, for me will you?