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gromit
31st January 2008, 03:09 PM
I'd like to plug some of the leaks around the doors before driving to Cooma and wondered if anyone can recommend a supplier for the door seals.

The seals are in an advanced stage of decomposition so it's difficult to even determine the original profile. It's held in place by steel strips fixed to the body with bifurcated rivets but I'm not sure whether the strips were enclosed within the seal or not.

Clarke rubber (and Scotts Old Auto Rubber ) have a profile (260.011) which I believe is for the Series 2. I got a sample and it's too big to fit the series 1. Scotts also have another profile (260.058) which might work, depending on it's size.
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/page16.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.

Colin

Rangier Rover
31st January 2008, 03:29 PM
I'd like to plug some of the leaks around the doors before driving to Cooma and wondered if anyone can recommend a supplier for the door seals.

The seals are in an advanced stage of decomposition so it's difficult to even determine the original profile. It's held in place by steel strips fixed to the body with bifurcated rivets but I'm not sure whether the strips were enclosed within the seal or not.

Clarke rubber (and Scotts Old Auto Rubber ) have a profile (260.011) which I believe is for the Series 2. I got a sample and it's too big to fit the series 1. Scotts also have another profile (260.058) which might work, depending on it's size.
http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/page16.jpg

Any help would be appreciated.

Colin This is a rough fix.. Run a heap of silicone allong old seal and put masking tape over it wait a few mins then gently close the door. I'ts not proper but will get you out strife till you find new ones.
Cheers RR.

gromit
6th February 2008, 07:46 AM
Thanks for the idea RR but I'm looking for something more permanent.
I think I can get a seal that will do but then need to look at how to mount it. Not too keen on gluing in place, the original was held in with steel strips and bifurcated rivets.
Got a price for some 6mm bifurcated rivets in copper (would prefer aluminium) at $25 for 20 !! Seems a little expensive, does anyone know a source of rivets at a reasonable cost ?

Colin

numpty
6th February 2008, 12:29 PM
Thanks for the idea RR but I'm looking for something more permanent.
I think I can get a seal that will do but then need to look at how to mount it. Not too keen on gluing in place, the original was held in with steel strips and bifurcated rivets.
Got a price for some 6mm bifurcated rivets in copper (would prefer aluminium) at $25 for 20 !! Seems a little expensive, does anyone know a source of rivets at a reasonable cost ?

Colin

If you find anything in the way of seals and or rivets, let us know Colin, as Leon's door seals are decidedly second hand also.

Bigbjorn
6th February 2008, 12:49 PM
Try Universal Engineers Supplies. Got branches in the three eastern state capitals. They supply all kinds of coach and motor body builders supplies

ellard
6th February 2008, 01:58 PM
Hi there all

I did quite a bit of research on the door seals - and opted for an aftermarket seal from "Clark Rubber' in Adelaide.

Its not the same as the original as I have glued it in and it works a treat. Personally I think it is better now than when they were originally built.

The series one is curently at in Port Augusta getting the canvas lockers tops fabricated but will post some pictures next week when I get home.

All the best

Wayne

gromit
6th February 2008, 02:08 PM
Wayne,

You don't happen to remember the number of the profile you used do you ?
One I got a sample of was listed for a Land Rover but I think it was for the Series 2 and seemed too big.


Colin

ellard
8th February 2008, 06:55 PM
Hi there

I am away with work at the moment - but will get back with the profile next week for you.

All the besty

Wayne

gromit
13th February 2008, 06:09 PM
I checked out the remains of the old door seals and re-looked at the profile Clark Rubber have listed as "Land Rover Door Seal".
The profile 260.011 isn't 'correct' but will allow the seals to be fixed as per original (as long as I can source the rivets). The original has a strip of plated steel slid inside, I will probably try aluminium (although I couldn't find anything thin enough at 10mm width so I had to get some sheet guillotined to size).
Most of the seal is fixed using 1/4" tubular rivets, one piece uses bifurcated rivets.
Tried a couple of bolt suppliers today and got blank looks when asking for the bifurcated rivet, aluminium tubular rivet got a better response but everything I found had a head that was too big and they had nothing as short as I needed. Will try some trim suppliers over the next few weeks. Did find a saddlery supplier in West Melbourne that could possibly supply the bifurcated rivets Leffler Saddlery (http://www.leffler.com.au/saddlery/rivets.htm)

I think pop-rivets will pull the strip down too tight and squeeze the foam every which way. The alternative is to glue in place. As I'm not painting yet I really don't want to destroy $80's worth of seals when I finally get round to painting it....

Have attached some sketches of my guess at the original profile, mounting details etc.


Colin

JDNSW
13th February 2008, 07:11 PM
I checked out the remains of the old door seals and re-looked at the profile Clark Rubber have listed as "Land Rover Door Seal".
The profile 260.011 isn't 'correct' but will allow the seals to be fixed as per original (as long as I can source the rivets). The original has a strip of plated steel slid inside, I will probably try aluminium (although I couldn't find anything thin enough at 10mm width so I had to get some sheet guillotined to size).
Most of the seal is fixed using 1/4" tubular rivets, one piece uses bifurcated rivets.
Tried a couple of bolt suppliers today and got blank looks when asking for the bifurcated rivet, aluminium tubular rivet got a better response but everything I found had a head that was too big and they had nothing as short as I needed. Will try some trim suppliers over the next few weeks. Did find a saddlery supplier in West Melbourne that could possibly supply the bifurcated rivets Leffler Saddlery (http://www.leffler.com.au/saddlery/rivets.htm)

I think pop-rivets will pull the strip down too tight and squeeze the foam every which way. The alternative is to glue in place. As I'm not painting yet I really don't want to destroy $80's worth of seals when I finally get round to painting it....

Have attached some sketches of my guess at the original profile, mounting details etc.


Colin

It was probably originally held with tubular rivets. Tubular rivets were commonly used for brake linings, and should be available from any long established auto supplies. Bifurcated rivets are the traditional type of rivet used for canvas and leather. A saddlery supply place should have them.

My 2a had the seals held with pop rivets, and this is what I used when I replaced them when I repainted it. There were no problems with excessive compression, but I strongly suggest that you drill the metal strip first, and make sure the rubber is stretched slightly when fastening it.

John

Sleepy
31st December 2008, 06:25 PM
Looking for some door seals at the moment for Ol' ute - Google lead me back to good ol' aulro:D.


Did you have any luck gromit? Those sketches are very handy. I was going to try scotts.

Like you I was hoping not to glue - although Ellard seems to have got some reasonable results with the Clark Rubber product





bifurcated - learn something new every day.:D

gromit
31st December 2008, 08:00 PM
Sleepy,

Scotts have a 'Land Rover' profile and exactly the same seal (even the same part number) is also available from Clarke Rubber.
I bought mine from Clarke Rubber and then never got round to fitting before the trip to Cooma, in fact it's still not fitted because I didn't track down the tubular rivets needed.
The seal is not an exact match but good enough. To mount as per original you need to either salvage the steel strips from your old rubbers or replace them if they have rotted away. Then source the bifurcated & tubular rivets (or resort to pop-rivets) to fix it in place.

Best of luck.

Colin

Sleepy
1st January 2009, 12:21 PM
Sleepy,

Scotts have a 'Land Rover' profile and exactly the same seal (even the same part number) is also available from Clarke Rubber.
I bought mine from Clarke Rubber and then never got round to fitting before the trip to Cooma, in fact it's still not fitted because I didn't track down the tubular rivets needed.
The seal is not an exact match but good enough. To mount as per original you need to either salvage the steel strips from your old rubbers or replace them if they have rotted away. Then source the bifurcated & tubular rivets (or resort to pop-rivets) to fix it in place.

Best of luck.

Colin

Thanks for the update Colin,

I'll pop into Scotts - they are just up the road from me. :)
Should be able to salvage the strips, only have a bit of surface rust.

Boofrmb
30th January 2009, 08:49 PM
There is a major rubber company in Sydney where I purchased all rubbers for my 48, not a problem except for the window frame seal.

Rob