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RonMcGr
3rd February 2008, 11:24 AM
Caravan Towing.

This information is for Caravans only. Towing a boat irrespective of its size, is totally different.
A weight of a boat is usually spread directly over the axles on the boat trailer and the draw bar is a lot longer than a caravan. Boats are more stable and rarely ever require a weight distribution hitch.

Towing with a Caravan can be a drama if the weight is not evenly balanced. To much weight to the rear and your rig will be very unstable and start to sway. If the van is heavy enough, the swaying will up end the tow vehicle and caravan. If the weight is too heavy at the front, it will take the stable weight off the front wheels, reducing you steering ability, sending you off the road or straight into on coming traffic.

Weight and balance is a bit like a seesaw.

The problem arises from point where the towed device attaches to the “Tug”.
In the case of this tractor and trailer, the tow bar is right at the driving wheels of the tractor, which is ideal for both tractor and trailer

http://www.lizardtractors.co.uk/tractors/tractor-10.jpg

This also applies to Prime movers, where the turntable is directly above the rear wheels, which is the most stable position for towing a trailer.

No doubt you have seen 5th wheelers, they are also one of the safest towed trailers on the road, due to the position of the turntable.

As you can see, the weight is directly over the rear driving wheels, giving maximum grip for the tug and will it not interfere with the balance on the steering.

http://www.pacificrv.com.au/ivecolarge.jpg


The seesaw motion starts as soon as the tow ball is moved back from the rear driving wheels and the further the tow bar is from the rear wheels, the worse it gets.

Here is a Land Rover with large 2 tonne caravan.

http://home.swiftdsl.com.au/~charliemann/index_files/2004_0202Image0002.JPG

Although it is hard to see it, the Land Rover has a Hayman Reese Weight Distribution Hitch fitted, similar to this one.

http://www.haymanreese.com.au/consumer/products/wdh/wdh.jpg

Towing a caravan, horse float or very heavy trailer can apply a heavy additional weight on the rear of your vehicle which is referred to as the ball weight.

The weight will be carried by the rear wheels which will raise the front of the vehicle, thereby reducing the weight on the front wheels.
As a result the vehicle will experience a reduction in steering and braking control.

The Weight Distributing Hitch is designed to ensure a return to even distribution of weight across all wheels of the tow vehicle and trailer.
This even distribution of weight ensures that positive steering and braking control is maintained.

In a way it's a bit like have a big tension spring between the tow vehicle and caravan but can be thought of more easily if the weight distributing bars are compared to handles on a wheelbarrow. The higher the handles are lifted the more weight is moved onto the wheelbarrow wheel and the easier it becomes to hold it up. Similarly, the more tension that is placed on the weight distribution bars, the more weight is transferred forward onto the front wheels of the tow vehicle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/02/537.jpg

There are various makes on the market to suit different weight applications.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/02/538.jpg

http://images.trailerhitches.com/mgen/master:CTM631.jpg

Suspension
Generally the type of suspension on the towing vehicle is not important as long as it is firm. Leaf springs are often considered more capable of supporting loads than coil springs but a good load distribution hitch will counteract the tendency of the rear of the vehicle to sag. As long as the suspension system (including the shock absorbers) is in good condition, then suspension system modifications for towing a caravan are not usually necessary, unless specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

Self-levelling Suspension
Some vehicles are fitted with self-levelling suspension. If this is the case, then the manufacturer's recommendations in regard to hitching up a trailer must be followed. Unless the trailer is very small, a load distribution hitch is almost essential on these vehicles and failure to follow the recommendations could result in damage to the vehicle's suspension.

I Realise Land Rover have stated, DO NOT use a WDH with a self-levelling suspension.

This is from a Road Test with a Discovery 3, air suspension:
“Evident within the first few kilometres was a quiet, cushion-soft ride and steering that offers the usually conflicting qualities of light control and plenty of feel. Unfortunately, also evident was a nervous gait that had me dropping the nose of the van just six kays up the road. With the hitch dropped two holes, it still wagged during another dozen kilometres of freeway; I lifted the chains one link each side.

Whoa, it made a hell of a difference. No more wiggle. It seems the Disco - due, no doubt, to its auto-levelling suspension - is very sensitive to ride height and load-distributing chain tension. Sorted, 100kph cruising was a doddle and it was difficult not to creep up to 110 where the Disco diesel, in fact, felt happier.”

If in doubt over vehicles with air or Hydraulic suspension, play it safe and use a different, sprung, vehicle. :D

JDNSW
3rd February 2008, 12:04 PM
The last comment is interesting - perhaps the best handling towing vehicle I have used is my DS Citroen - self levelling suspension, but with the tow bar at the rear wheels, and zero sideways elasticity in the suspension (instead of bushes it has tapered roller bearings), plus a very long wheelbase. And the handling was independent of tow ball load (although I never tried it with upward load!).

John

RonMcGr
3rd February 2008, 12:15 PM
The last comment is interesting - perhaps the best handling towing vehicle I have used is my DS Citroen - self levelling suspension, but with the tow bar at the rear wheels, and zero sideways elasticity in the suspension (instead of bushes it has tapered roller bearings), plus a very long wheelbase. And the handling was independent of tow ball load (although I never tried it with upward load!).

John


Hi John,

I did tow a few trailers and a boat with my Citroen
and all was well. The rear wheels are so close to the rear of the vehicle, which is good for balance :D
The front certainly never lifted, but I had blown spheres through over loading.

The air sprung rears on some of the XJ40 Jaguar were a total disaster. I doubt there is one left with air suspension.
Most owners ripped it out and put coils and shockies back in. :D

You may find this article interesting.

A Landrover with DS suspension (http://www.citroen-ds-id.com/ds/Landrover_with_Cit_Suspension.html)

It appears to be a SII Land Rover, fitted with Citroen suspension, with Nissan engine and bits of Jaguar!

Cheers,
Ron

mcrover
3rd February 2008, 01:40 PM
After towing huge vans with the F350 4wd for 2 years I have found the WDH's to be only helpfull on vehicals that have a low ball weight but of very little use with vehicals which are of a matched weight or heavier than the towed load.

On vehicals that are heavier than the load that is being towed and suspention that is stiff enough to hold the said load up, the only advantage is the anti sway caracteristics if the torsion bars are strong enough.

A WDH ONLY reduces the ball weight by way of spring pressure between the draw bar and the tow bar, the added advantage is the anti sway capability it gives due to extra spring pressure on the draw bar.

I would recomend them to anyone who is going to be towing a large load but with caravans, as long as you load them properly and they are built to be balanced properly then you shouldnt have any problems.

By far the safest way to tow a very big van is to have a 5th wheeler of goose neck and the suspention rated to suit the turn table or ball load or fit airbags.

MarknDeb
3rd February 2008, 02:15 PM
If you are going to use a WDH on a Land Rover you must change the towbar to one that will take a WDH (as i have been told) the LR bar is not designed to take the up force that the WDH puts on it.

Last weekend i heard (so far unconfirmed) that people running a WDH on the D3's have had the locking pin snap off (the one that holds the tow tounge and ball on)

RonMcGr
3rd February 2008, 02:52 PM
I and members on our Caravan Forum have seen some very odd and dangerous setups, recently.

One was a "Know it all" with a old Toyota LC Ute, large van on behind, no WDH, with the front of the vehicle stitting up in the air, bum down and draw bar almost on the road.

When asked why he did not put on a WDH, "Don't need crap like that, this is a 4WD!" He is still out there, waiting to cause an accident. First slippery corner and he'll be off the road in the bushes. I just hope no one is coming the other way. Trucks and tractors are about the only thing that don't require a WDH.

Last Caravaning weekend we went to, there was a guy with a medium sized van, being towed behind a late 60's early 70's 280/300SE, 6.3 V8. It had the horrid MB airbag rear end, and it was leaking. He had to start the car, hook up the van and then fit the WDH. Even then, it still sagged at the rear. The moment he turned the motor off, the old Merc sat on the ground.

I have seen a Jap FWD car towing a van without WDH. The front of the car was up so far, I was surprised he even got traction to drive the thing!

Some times, I think people should have to get a special license to tow anything larger than a 7x4 trailer. The stupidity of some people and total ignorance of equipment required in towing Caravans really worries me. No small wonder there are so many accidents.

Any normal passenger car, ute or 4WD should have a WDH. IF the caravan is very small and light on the drawbar, it may not be needed. However an anti sway bar would be an advantage. Passing a large vehicle may cause the van to sway from air pressure.

An other thing to keep in mind. When a Semi or large truck is about to overtake you and your van, lift your foot off the accelerator a little as the truck pulls out to pass, then slowly increase speed as the truck goes past. This will stop the van being sucked into the side of the truck as it goes past. Once the truck has cleared the front of your vehicle flick your headlights to let him know he is past you. They do appreciate it :)

MarknDeb
3rd February 2008, 03:07 PM
Gday Ron, we have SLS and i will not use the WDH, i have used it and have found our car drives and feals better to drive on the road without, Last weekend we went to Bunya MTS with the Kedron Owners Group, when we hitched up to come home a few of the Toymota owners came over to have a look when we hitched i closed the doors and up she went to ride height and the car and van where both level, then we drove out with them all looking and talking. All we need in the car now is the TDV8 to pull a bit better:angel:

RonMcGr
3rd February 2008, 03:30 PM
Gday Ron, we have SLS and i will not use the WDH, i have used it and have found our car drives and feals better to drive on the road without, Last weekend we went to Bunya MTS with the Kedron Owners Group, when we hitched up to come home a few of the Toymota owners came over to have a look when we hitched i closed the doors and up she went to ride height and the car and van where both level, then we drove out with them all looking and talking. All we need in the car now is the TDV8 to pull a bit better:angel:

Hi MarknDeb,

It's a pity there is no pressure gauge telling you what is being forced into the rear suspension. :)

What ball weight is your van?

Cheers,

Bigbjorn
3rd February 2008, 03:42 PM
Centre point of a turntable of a real semi-trailer rig is usually about 300mm ahead of the centre line of the rear axles, not on centre as in the photo above. On or behind centre pin gives noticeably worse ride and handing. Try it some time.

RonMcGr
3rd February 2008, 04:15 PM
Centre point of a turntable of a real semi-trailer rig is usually about 300mm ahead of the centre line of the rear axles, not on centre as in the photo above. On or behind centre pin gives noticeably worse ride and handing. Try it some time.

Brian,

You may get a smile out of this.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

There is one born every minute :eek:

Cheers

Chucaro
3rd February 2008, 04:35 PM
It can not be true :eek: This image is a clear demonstration of how dangerous can be the road with d#$% heads like this :mad:

Bigbjorn
3rd February 2008, 04:49 PM
Brian,

You may get a smile out of this.
http://rvtravel.com/blog/jerry/uploaded_images/suv-5er-1-799716.jpg

http://rvtravel.com/blog/jerry/uploaded_images/suv-5er-2-767101.jpg

There is one born every minute :eek:

Cheers

Phuque?

sfako
3rd February 2008, 05:26 PM
Hi guys I have read your towing info with great interest.
We take our disco td5 towing our 23ft caravan lotsa places and i use a WDH at all times and find it very stable.

Realy the reason i am relpying to your post is to find out what sort of tow mirrors you have fitted to your discos,a pic would be goo as i am having a hell of a time finding somthing sutible.

Thanks Steve

p38arover
3rd February 2008, 05:51 PM
I reckon it must take a special kind of person to tow a van. I couldn't put up with the hassles or the slowness of it all.

RonMcGr
3rd February 2008, 05:54 PM
Hi guys I have read your towing info with great interest.
We take our disco td5 towing our 23ft caravan lotsa places and i use a WDH at all times and find it very stable.

Realy the reason i am relpying to your post is to find out what sort of tow mirrors you have fitted to your discos,a pic would be goo as i am having a hell of a time finding somthing sutible.

Thanks Steve

Hi Steve,

None :D

I have a camera fixed to the back of the van and two on the back of the Disco.

You see the vehicle move up behind you, put their indicator on to pass, then they appear in the side mirror.
I use the Van camera for reversing into sites as well.

The camera's on the Disco are for rear view, plus hooking up the van.

These pics should give you an idea.
Message - AULRO Photo Gallery (http://www.aulro.com/app/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/15287/sort/1)

Over the years I've tried all types of mirrors.
They all shake and give you a distorted vision, or, fall off, push the vehicle mirror back, etc, etc..

Cheers,

MarknDeb
3rd February 2008, 08:29 PM
Hi MarknDeb,

It's a pity there is no pressure gauge telling you what is being forced into the rear suspension. :)

What ball weight is your van?

Cheers,


Ron our van has a 210kg ball weight and is a tandem axle 17"6 internal

RonMcGr
4th February 2008, 07:08 AM
Ron our van has a 210kg ball weight and is a tandem axle 17"6 internal

Hi MarknDeb,

Thats not too bad :)
I would probably use a light WDH, just to ease pressure on the back suspension of your vehicle, but then that is purely my opinion :D
Good luck and I hope it all goes well for you.

Cheers

RonMcGr
4th February 2008, 07:18 AM
I reckon it must take a special kind of person to tow a van. I couldn't put up with the hassles or the slowness of it all.

Hi Ron,

Caravaning is really a personal choice.
I'm not fond of Motels. I like to sleep in the same bed, same surrounds (Creature of habit) and take our lorikeet with us. Meals are all home made, etc. Running expenses are similar to being at home. Only additional is fuel and twenty odd bucks for a CP.

The van is easy to tow, you can stop where ever you like, go where you want to and take your time smelling the roses :D

We belong to a couple of Caravan clubs and go on regular long weekend runs. The companionship and fun had on these runs makes it all worthwhile. Even if you are travelling on your own and pull into a caravan park, you usually wind up talking to the neighbours over a drink or two.

Cheers

Chucaro
4th February 2008, 07:42 AM
Ron our van has a 210kg ball weight and is a tandem axle 17"6 internal

Which vehicle are you using for towing ?
I have a Disco I and the maximum ball weight specified by Land Rover is 150 kg

BradM
4th February 2008, 08:08 AM
I have used a Hayman Reece 750 kg WDH on my DII TD5 with SLS to tow my vans. The current van is 21.5 ft OFF ROAD with a loaded weight of 2,500 kg. It has all been problem free.

I am picking up a 1981 Ford Bronco 4X4 with a Cleveland 351 V8, C6 auto and 9" diff's this week. It will assume the "Tow Horse" duties and shopping trolly run.

At 94 cents a litre for LPG up my way it works out at the same economy as the TD5 with deisel selling for $1.65 here.

BradM

harlie
4th February 2008, 08:10 AM
This information is for Caravans only. Towing a boat irrespective of its size, is totally different.

A weight of a boat is usually spread directly over the axles on the boat trailer and the draw bar is a lot longer than a caravan. Boats are more stable and rarely ever require a weight distribution hitch.



Hi Ron
Fantastic post – backed up with a lot of pics and facts.
I do how ever disagree with the bit up the top on boats, I have not towed a caravan, but have towed 2.5 to 3.5t boats extensively along the QLD coast, and my experience is that it is absolutely horrible to have a trailer load that is balanced especially if it is significantly heavier than the tow vehicle! Yes the draw bar is really long but talk about the see-saw effect (up & down and side to side). Even most of the top boat trailer manufactures now recommend 10% of total mass as the ball weight. On the rigs I had I shifted the axle frame (they are all adjustable) to give close to the max ball weight up front – then learnt how easy towing is with the Reece kit.

There’s a club ex Melbourne that tow (mostly) 7.0 & 7.3m Whittleys (around the 3t) all over the place – I met up with these guys on the way to the Whittsundays a couple of years back and no surprise – they all use LDH set up and swear by it.
:)

RonMcGr
4th February 2008, 08:12 AM
I have used a Hayman Reece 750 kg WDH on my DII TD5 with SLS to tow my vans. The current van is 21.5 ft OFF ROAD with a loaded weight of 2,500 kg. It has all been problem free.

I am picking up a 1981 Ford Bronco 4X4 with a Cleveland 351 V8, C6 auto and 9" diff's this week. It will assume the "Tow Horse" duties and shopping trolly run.

At 94 cents a litre for LPG up my way it works out at the same economy as the TD5 with deisel selling for $1.65 here.

BradM

Gee Brad,

Fuel is a little exy over there!!
Those Broncos sure are tough beasts :)
Pleased to hear the DII is working well, with that setup :D
You should have no rear suspension problems, at all.

RonMcGr
4th February 2008, 08:16 AM
Which vehicle are you using for towing ?
I have a Disco I and the maximum ball weight specified by Land Rover is 150 kg

Have a look at MarknDeb's message, under the name :)
2003 TD5

MarknDeb
4th February 2008, 09:06 AM
Which vehicle are you using for towing ?
I have a Disco I and the maximum ball weight specified by Land Rover is 150 kg


Gday as in my signature, we have the D2 S TD5 250kg ball weight

Chucaro
4th February 2008, 09:10 AM
Mark,. what is in the Td5 that allows 100kg more weight in the ball than the Td300 ? It is the suspension or the engine ?
I was under the impression that the wheel base have a lot to do with it ?
Just learning :)
Cheers

MarknDeb
4th February 2008, 09:13 AM
Hi guys I have read your towing info with great interest.
We take our disco td5 towing our 23ft caravan lotsa places and i use a WDH at all times and find it very stable.

Realy the reason i am relpying to your post is to find out what sort of tow mirrors you have fitted to your discos,a pic would be goo as i am having a hell of a time finding somthing sutible.

Thanks Steve


I use these and havent had any issues yet

MarknDeb
4th February 2008, 09:15 AM
Mark,. what is in the Td5 that allows 100kg more weight in the ball than the Td300 ? It is the suspension or the engine ?
I was under the impression that the wheel base have a lot to do with it ?
Just learning :)
Cheers

Mate hoestly i dont know the reason for this, when we where looking to buy we looked at the older disco to start and the ball weight buggared that for us so we ended up forking out to get a new one

MarknDeb
4th February 2008, 09:22 AM
I reckon it must take a special kind of person to tow a van. I couldn't put up with the hassles or the slowness of it all.

Yes well when ever we do a trip we overtake a few other caravaners all the time and dont we get some bad bad boy looks, we over took a semi once and he couldnt believe he got overtaken by a caravan and called us on UHF18 to ask if i was powered by a rocket, lol

The best thing about the caravn trips is when you get to where you are going you have your home and your own bed that you are used to not to mention cloths food and water

Chucaro
4th February 2008, 09:25 AM
Mate hoestly i dont know the reason for this, when we where looking to buy we looked at the older disco to start and the ball weight buggared that for us so we ended up forking out to get a new one

The new Defender factory specs :eek:
Recommended max. trailer nose weight 150 kg
What it is going on with Land Rover design :eek:

MarknDeb
4th February 2008, 09:28 AM
Ron here is a pic of our car and van setup without the WDH

MarknDeb
4th February 2008, 09:30 AM
The new Defender factory specs :eek:
Recommended max. trailer nose weight 150 kg
What it is going on with Land Rover design :eek:

Yes mate it certainly is a strange setup, we could be looking at changing to the VW Tourag when we update thats unless LR puts the TDV8 in the D3

Jamo
4th February 2008, 09:46 AM
This is from a Road Test with a Discovery 3, air suspension:
“Evident within the first few kilometres was a quiet, cushion-soft ride and steering that offers the usually conflicting qualities of light control and plenty of feel. Unfortunately, also evident was a nervous gait that had me dropping the nose of the van just six kays up the road. With the hitch dropped two holes, it still wagged during another dozen kilometres of freeway; I lifted the chains one link each side.

Whoa, it made a hell of a difference. No more wiggle. It seems the Disco - due, no doubt, to its auto-levelling suspension - is very sensitive to ride height and load-distributing chain tension. Sorted, 100kph cruising was a doddle and it was difficult not to creep up to 110 where the Disco diesel, in fact, felt happier.”
:D

Ron, this is a very informative thread you've got here.

With respect to the above comment. Did these testers try towing without the WHD first? This statement would appear to indicate that they put the WDH on anyway. This would 'confuse' the vehicles systems.

RonMcGr
4th February 2008, 11:26 AM
Ron, this is a very informative thread you've got here.

With respect to the above comment. Did these testers try towing without the WHD first? This statement would appear to indicate that they put the WDH on anyway. This would 'confuse' the vehicles systems.

Jamo,

They put it on for safety reasons, as the did on every other vehicle tested. It did confuse the vehicles suspension and that is why they reset the chains twice, to get the ideal setting.

I gather, once they had the WDH set properly, the suspension stopped trying to re-adjust, and everything then went well.:D

BigJon
4th February 2008, 01:11 PM
Centre point of a turntable of a real semi-trailer rig is usually about 300mm ahead of the centre line of the rear axles, not on centre as in the photo above. On or behind centre pin gives noticeably worse ride and handing. Try it some time.

I have been told once, although not by someone in authority, that in Australia, 5th wheel caravans, horse floats, etc have the tow point slightly behind the rear axle for licencing reasons. Apparently if the pivot point is forwards of the rear axle, then you require a HC licence to drive the combination.

Bigbjorn
4th February 2008, 01:35 PM
If the pin is on or behind centre then the lightly laden front axle will try to pivot up and down on bumps around the centre of the rear axle giving a bobbing ride motion and understeer. Pin ahead puts a load on the front axle. Pin on centre or behind is uncomfortable and pin behind is definitely dangerous. I have no idea if these gooseneck rigs need a HC licence to drive but they should. I also firmly believe that a car driver towing any trailer bigger than a light domestic rubbish dump trailer should have a special licence and have to undergo mandatory training. Maybe then truckies would not call caravanners terrorists in lieu of tourists.

RonMcGr
4th February 2008, 02:13 PM
There is a few Diagrams in this article on the point of articulation.
ROAD TRAFFIC (VEHICLE STANDARDS) RULES 1999 - REG 176 (http://www.austlii.edu.au/au/legis/sa/consol_reg/rtsr1999308/s176.html)

Grizzly_Adams
4th February 2008, 02:15 PM
Ok folks interesting read but I have a question.

I tow a camper trailer that can weigh up to 1.2 tonne. The recommendation from the manufacturer of the camper trailer is not to use WDH's.

So with this in mind it is important to pack the camper properly with the weight as they suggest in their manuals.

However I still get some sag on my rear wheels especially when travelling long distances.

I was thinking of putting some polyairs in the back to remedy this situation but I have been told that, whilst they will level the vehicle - it is not as good as WDH's and makes little difference to the pivot point.

So now I'm stuck on what to do. I always assumed the self-levelling systems used a polyair type set up and a computer to level the suspension anyway, so what's the go? Have I been misled?

Are polyairs any good when compared to WDH's in this situation?

EDIT: I do not want to send this thread off-track, if you feel I should raise a new thread on this let me know and I will do so. I posted because I thought it relevant to the topic being discussed.

RonMcGr
4th February 2008, 03:59 PM
Ok folks interesting read but I have a question.

I tow a camper trailer that can weigh up to 1.2 tonne. The recommendation from the manufacturer of the camper trailer is not to use WDH's.

So with this in mind it is important to pack the camper properly with the weight as they suggest in their manuals.

However I still get some sag on my rear wheels especially when travelling long distances.

I was thinking of putting some polyairs in the back to remedy this situation but I have been told that, whilst they will level the vehicle - it is not as good as WDH's and makes little difference to the pivot point.

So now I'm stuck on what to do. I always assumed the self-levelling systems used a polyair type set up and a computer to level the suspension anyway, so what's the go? Have I been misled?

Are polyairs any good when compared to WDH's in this situation?

EDIT: I do not want to send this thread off-track, if you feel I should raise a new thread on this let me know and I will do so. I posted because I thought it relevant to the topic being discussed.

Hi Glen,

I would probably go for a lighter WDH.
Not the heavy Hayman Reese, the smaller 4 bar one like I use. It lifts the back of the Disco a little and keeps everything in line :-)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

These are rather cheap ($100, cheaper second hand) and work well with lighter loads.

Cheers

BigJon
4th February 2008, 04:14 PM
need a HC licence to drive but they should. I also firmly believe that a car driver towing any trailer bigger than a light domestic rubbish dump trailer should have a special licence and have to undergo mandatory training. .

I agree 100%.

isuzu110
4th February 2008, 04:35 PM
"I tow a camper trailer that can weigh up to 1.2 tonne. The recommendation from the manufacturer of the camper trailer is not to use WDH's.



I was thinking of putting some polyairs in the back to remedy this situation but I have been told that, whilst they will level the vehicle - it is not as good as WDH's and makes little difference to the pivot point" - Grizzly Adams
Whilst my campertailer weighs less than a tonne, I put Polyairs in my 110 in 2000 to stop the rear-end sag. I have been very happy with them.

I'm not far away. You are welcome to try my vehicle sometime with your trailer to see how they perform.

Grizzly_Adams
4th February 2008, 09:19 PM
I'm not far away.

I'm at Greenslopes - you're basically around the corner!

Though as I said it really only comes to play when you've been on the open road for a long time - all day driving etc. I wouldn't mind having a look at your setup however.

I'll send you a PM.

Grizzly_Adams
4th February 2008, 09:21 PM
Hi Glen,

I would probably go for a lighter WDH.
Not the heavy Hayman Reese, the smaller 4 bar one like I use. It lifts the back of the Disco a little and keeps everything in line :-)

These are rather cheap ($100, cheaper second hand) and work well with lighter loads.

Cheers

Thanks Ron :BigThumb:, though I'm not keen on going against Manufacturer recommendations... the offroad camper I've got has some pretty fancy-doody suspension setup that I don't want to confuse (MC2 military spec?) so I'll see what isuzu110's air-bags are like and go from there...

Grizzly_Adams
4th February 2008, 09:25 PM
Oh and I should probably say that I've had no problems with tracking, the camper has followed beautifully in all situations I've put her through - including up the OTL to Cape York.

I just noticed that the front of the Defender was sitting obviously higher than the rear after a full day driving and would prefer that she was sitting properly :angel:

MarknDeb
4th February 2008, 09:34 PM
Ok folks interesting read but I have a question.

I was thinking of putting some polyairs in the back to remedy this situation but I have been told that, whilst they will level the vehicle - it is not as good as WDH's and makes little difference to the pivot point.

.
Gday Grizzly here is a site for airbag sugestions, they advertise in Caravan & Motorhome mag"
Welcome to Airbag Man (http://www.airbagman.com.au/)

When the airbags in our Disco die i will be putting coils with the polly bags and also change to a HR tow bar to run the WDH