Need Help On Info On Discovery Models

[AussieLandRover]

Hi,

I am now in the market to buy a Land Rover Discovery but I don't want to buy the older models and I can not find information & reviews.

I know I can tell by the dash the old model has the bulky dash and most the ugly blue and the one I want has the more updated grey stylish dash.

I need to know what year they start from and links to reviews.

I am looking to spend upto $8,000 with RWC supplied.

I would also like to know what I need to look for when looking and test driving them at dealers.

Would anyone know of a good dealer in Melbourne.

Your help will be appreciated.

[RonMcGr]

Hi,

I am now in the market to buy a Land Rover Discovery but I don't want to buy the older models and I can not find information & reviews.

I know I can tell by the dash the old model has the bulky dash and most the ugly blue and the one I want has the more updated grey stylish dash.

I need to know what year they start from and links to reviews.

I am looking to spend upto $8,000 with RWC supplied.

I would also like to know what I need to look for when looking and test driving them at dealers.

Would anyone know of a good dealer in Melbourne.

Your help will be appreciated.

Land Rover Discovery 1991-2004 - drive.com.au (http://www.drive.com.au/Editorial/ArticleDetail.aspx?ArticleID=9446)

Better ones are Series one, 1996 to 1998, air bags, ABS, etc.

But then, I an biased :D

[simonl8353]

Hi,

Not much of a problem here, a D1 or a D2 ;). I wish that was the only problem in my life :D

I did whole bunch of research before buying the ES model D2 but that was to suit my specific need.

Basically the D2 came out in '99 and was around 85% different to the D1 although thankfully you wont notice it much on the outside. The link offered by RonMcGr is a good starting point.

You can probably get a D2 for $8k if you dont want the 7 seats and leather etc. You will get a good D1 with all that stuff and they are excellent cars.

It sounds obvious, but shop around, I paid $12k for mine last year where I still see them advertised anywhere from $13k to $24k :eek: for a '99 ES D2 model.

check with Red Books, this is what people actually pay, not what they're advertising them for. Red Book AU : Your site for New and Used vehicle prices (http://www.redbookasiapacific.com/au/home.php)

[agrojnr]

Try this site

http://www.csse.monash.edu.au/~lloyd/4/LandRover/


Adam

[Signal1]

Just look at Used Cars - New Cars - Search New & Used Cars For Sale - carsales.com.au (http://www.carsales.com.au) , private sellers and look at all their photos. That is the best and fastest way to get across all the differences in appearance, dash board updates, front & rear external updates.

Sounds like you would want to look at models from the years '95-'98 for the Series 1 Discovery (D1) which came with a 3.9tlr V8 or 300Tdi engine. As with any vehicle, the later years of a models life are the best. If you want an excellent example for your money then a D1 is a realistic way forward. If you're happy to accept high kms, average to good body and interior conditions then you could get into a V8 D2 circa '99 model.

D2 as mentioned is quite different and you really need to get out and have a look at one and compare between the D1 & D2. You can then decide on the one you prefer and narrow your search to make life easier :p

I'm pickie, I wasn't happy with any specimum I saw at a dealer for the prices expected. I eventually bought mine off ebay after inspecting it first :angel:

[AussieLandRover]

Looks like it's 1994 to 1997 I will be looking at Melbourne this Friday.

[mcrover]

94 will be pre update im pretty sure, the later the better so Id be inclined to refine your search to anything from 96 up to 99.

You will get a high Km 300TDI for that money with no accessories or a relatively good V8 with change to do plenty of mods e.g. put on gas.

[101RRS]

94 will be pre update im pretty sure,

The updates are from 95MY - build is from late 93 on and first sold in May 94.

Garry

[agrojnr]

In WA at the moment you can buy a 98 model for around 10k so you should get a very nice 95 for around 8k

Adam

[AussieLandRover]

Looks like I have found myself a 1995 Land Rover Discovery in Dark Blue automatic with only 181330km on the clock and complete full service history from new right up to 25/01/08 and it looks pretty good it was the best I found in Melbourne from a private seller the yards had allot of run down Landys. Brought for $7,500.00 with RWC and full 12 months rego.

I should have it by tomorrow night or sometime during the week.

[Signal1]

Gees you work quickly, no mucking around there. Hope she works out well and make sure pics appear soon. :D

[AussieLandRover]

Gees you work quickly, no mucking around there. Hope she works out well and make sure pics appear soon. :D

Well I didn't expect to find one that quick either.

I looked at like 12 Land Rover's 2 I could have considered and the rest were just rubbish all have the roof lining coming off and must be very common.

At the end of the day I decided to look at A Land Rover in Toorak by a private seller and wow it looks like A $10,000 to $12,000 Land Rover in car yards in Melbourne but the only down side is the roof lining so I figured well it's just the roof lining no drama's to get that fixed.

I will be needing a towbar as it doesn't have one.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Pedro_The_Swift]

hmm, by that pic not the Toorak I was thinking of--:p


nice car:D

its got a small side moulding up higher than normal?

[loanrangie]

hmm, by that pic not the Toorak I was thinking of--:p


nice car:D

its got a small side moulding up higher than normal?

Pin striping, mine has the exact same ?

[Signal1]

She looks great! :cool:

[mcrover]

That looks really good and with full history you can be pretty sure of what your buying.

Good on ya mate hope it works well for you.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Pin striping, mine has the exact same ?


not standard,, ?
again,, not many up here--

a small side "moulding" to prevent car park dings is a great idea--

[AussieLandRover]

Got the beast home at 4:30pm Saturday was a great drive home found that the cruise control did not work and is in need of a steering alignment. In the carpark of a supermarket I could hear odd grone noise from the steering as well.

We did find it came with a TV in the passenger sun visor which explained the 2 ariels outside. Not sure if it works as when I tried it it wouldn't pick up any stations.

Now I know you will laugh at this but being a 1st time 4x4 owner my brother was trying to show me how to engage the transfer box and moved the stick around and when me and my sister went shopping I noticed a wine to the driving that was not there before and when I got to the end of a main street I lost drive and knew my brother had did something wrong tot he transfer box and it disengaged so i had to try and figure out how to get it back in and I did have a little trouble and I didn't have the manual with me I left it at home for reading but I got it into gear but it slipped out again when I got into a parking space but later got it back again.

Now i got the Landy back home I read up on the transfer box and how to use the gears but I am still a little confused on how to properly engage the gears and i noticed in the Landy the diagram was not in the manual but this is what i have figured out to place it into normal road gears.

1. Put it into Diff position firmly
2. Then put it into H (high gears)
3. Then twist the gear stick on an angle to the left to lock the stick into postion.

Am I right here ?

What I am confused on which is not covered in the manual that I could read is how you go about the motion of putting it into these gears like for example :-

1. Push stick up into N (neutral)
2. Push stick to the left
3. Push stick up firmly into DIFF position
4. Push stick right from DIFF position to L (low gears) position
5. Push stick down to N (neutral) then to H (high gears) postion
6. Twist gear stick to the left leaving on an angle to lock it in to prevent accidental knock.

I also know I need to have the hand brake and foot brake on and auto in Neutral position before using the Transfer box.

I feel like a knob now :(

[njz]

Hi, hope you are enjoying your new toy.

Diff unlocked = lever to the right
Diff locked = lever to the left (yellow light on dash)

Low range = lever forward
High range = lever backward

Twisting it just loosens the knob.

For normal driving on hard grippy surfaces you should have the diff unlocked (no yellow dash light). Only lock it when on loose surfaces or when you have rough terrain.

You only need the auto in N to change - no hand brake or foot brake needed.

[AussieLandRover]

Twisting it just loosens the knob.

I don't know if I twist the knob in the same position as in the diagrame in the Landy I find I can not move the stick from it's current position. I'll give it ago again later today to see if it's still so. ?

[waynep]

Being from Toorak the "little stick" had probably never been used in it's life ! Even when in regular use they can "stick" at times.
If you can't move the stick freely while stationary, try moving it into the "neutral" or centre position with the car just ever so slightly moving forward, ( less than walking pace ) than ease it into the diff lock high or low position. Then back into unlocked high and low. Do that a few times for a few weeks and it might free up.
Don't drive it in "diff lock" on the tarseal for very far though.

[RonMcGr]

Well I didn't expect to find one that quick either.

I looked at like 12 Land Rover's 2 I could have considered and the rest were just rubbish all have the roof lining coming off and must be very common.

At the end of the day I decided to look at A Land Rover in Toorak by a private seller and wow it looks like A $10,000 to $12,000 Land Rover in car yards in Melbourne but the only down side is the roof lining so I figured well it's just the roof lining no drama's to get that fixed.

I will be needing a towbar as it doesn't have one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v201/AussieHolden/LandRover95.jpg

What a pretty vehicle!

[RonMcGr]

I don't know if I twist the knob in the same position as in the diagrame in the Landy I find I can not move the stick from it's current position. I'll give it ago again later today to see if it's still so. ?

When I bought mine, the diff lock had never been used and was stuck fast.

I had to take the console out, remove the linkage from the gear box and coax the sliding rod with a hammer and WD40.

It took a while but it eventually freed up. I still have to whack the gear to the left and right to get it to work, though :D

Mine was a Gold Coast cruiser that had not been off the road.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

A firm hand is required when changing into low range.

The CDL can be engaged at any speed,, a very handy thing!

You should check when unlocking the CDL that the dash light goes out,, sometimes mine required a small distance in reverse to release/unlock.

If that nice PIC is your driveway,, I'd use the CDL at least weekly.

[AussieLandRover]

If that nice PIC is your driveway,, I'd use the CDL at least weekly.

Nah not my driveway it was a relatives country farm they would visit once a month there was no need for them to engage 4WD there.

I'll take all that info on board now and see how I go later on today or tomorrow.

:thumbsup: Thanks guys :burnrubber: