just cleaned the internal fuel pump filter.

[andrew e]

Finally got around to cleaning the little filter/strainer inside the bottom banjo bolt in the fuel pump. I had to.... remove the engine mount bolts in the engine, remove the front stud in the block for the engine mount, jam a trolley jack betwen my sump and axle, and lift the whole bloody engine up to gain access with a ring spanner.

AND THE FILTER WAS CLEAN AS A WHISSLE ALREADY:(:(:mad:

Andyway, for my piece of mind, its been cleaned/checked now. Its the first time in my 5.5 years of ownership that its been out, and i doubt the previous owner ever checked it. Why did they put it in such a ........ of a spot, or why didn't they slot the engine mount to make it easier. I'm just going to put an inline fuel filter before the pump, so i dont have to mess around with it again.

[Larns]

I wouldn't put anything more than a sediment/water trap before the pump. Putting an actual filter before the lift pump is asking for troubles.

[D3Jon]

Finally got around to cleaning the little filter/strainer inside the bottom banjo bolt in the fuel pump. I had to.... remove the engine mount bolts in the engine, remove the front stud in the block for the engine mount, jam a trolley jack betwen my sump and axle, and lift the whole bloody engine up to gain access with a ring spanner.

AND THE FILTER WAS CLEAN AS A WHISSLE ALREADY:(:(:mad:

Andyway, for my piece of mind, its been cleaned/checked now. Its the first time in my 5.5 years of ownership that its been out, and i doubt the previous owner ever checked it. Why did they put it in such a ........ of a spot, or why didn't they slot the engine mount to make it easier. I'm just going to put an inline fuel filter before the pump, so i dont have to mess around with it again.

I did the same job on mine a few weeks ago. Never had any trouble, just put a spanner (or was it socket?) straight onto it.

Was a bit of a fiddle though as it is close to the engine mount. I guess they must have changed something over the years (mines one of the last 110's - it's a 1990).

hang on, I'll pop outside and grab a photo of it.

Jon

[D3Jon]

OK, just out of interest... here's a photo of that Banjo connection on my pump, taken from underneath. Is that the same as yours?

Now I've looked at it, it's obvious that I used a spanner on it - but there was room between it and the top of the engine mount! :)

http://www.jonmurray.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/IMGP3080_%5B800x600%5D_reduced.JPG

Jon

[andrew e]

See how that metal bracket connecting between the engine mount and the block has a curve in the top edge? mine doesn't, its straight.

One day if the engine mount ever fails or it needs to be removed again, i will attack it with the plasma, and it will be the same as yours.

[D3Jon]

See how that metal bracket connecting between the engine mount and the block has a curve in the top edge? mine doesn't, its straight.

One day if the engine mount ever fails or it needs to be removed again, i will attack it with the plasma, and it will be the same as yours.

Ahh... No wonder it was such a @#$%^&* of a job then :D

[rar110]

After doing this job I also fitted an inline filter before the lift pump.

The Stage 1 Isuzu hand book says that model had a cav filter/sedimenter instead of only a sedimenter before the lift pump. It also had a filter on the motor. The service instructions are to change them both every 20,000km.

[lokka]

Yep had the same drama many moons ago but was like the pic was able to undo the banjo and find flecks of paint from the inside of jerry cans blocking it as the old girl just stoped on the side of the road like it had run outa juice ...

Inline filter was installed after the sedimenter to stop this from happening again :D:D:D

[Dougal]

That's interesting.

My Isuzu was a japanese import truck engine, the banjo bolt isn't on the bottom, it's on the rear side of that block. There's also a manual lift pump on the same block.

[DRanged]

Take out that filter and leave it out. Put an inline servicable filter just before the pump. you can see whats in it and its a breeze to clean.

Justin

[andrew e]

i just checked it again, and i do have that cut out, however, there is less clearance than yours Jon. Not even enough to get a ring spanner over the head, let alone turning it.

On another note, does anyone know the reason for those short bits of metal pipe in the fuel lines about 4 inches behind the fuel pump?


Andy

[Hillybangcock]

Hi Andrew, A quick caution regarding "removal & replacement of the engine mount in question".Several years ago during a driving trip around Tassie, mine developed fuel supply problems, I initially thought it to be suspect fuel having filled up my tanks from outback NSW, after several primary fuel filter changes & a secondary one too, the problem had escalated to being hard to re-prime the engine, post filter changes. I have 2 long range tanks fitted to mine & my own design fuel supply/transfer system. After many days of fruitless searching, I found it only occurred when the tank level was around 1/2, so I used to top up the main tank via my transfer pump whenever it started to feel sluggish. On one occasion, I forgot to turn off the pump, overfilling the tank, fuel was leaking out of the filler-cap & on to the road behind. I stopped to drain the level a little & curb the fuel trail following "The Snail", only to find fuel leaking from beneath the engine too. From the Banjo bolt you're talking about. The engine bolts securing the mount to the engine had sheared off & the engine was resting on the banjo, vibration from the engine had progressively loosened the bolt to the point it was sucking a small, but ever increasing amount of air into the system. The amount the engine had moved was less than 10mm, not enough to be readily seen, & everything seemed normal. The shock that had broken the bolts I recalled as hitting a large pot-hole out west, whilst towing the caravan, but merely thought I'd bottomed out the suspension.
My suggestion to you, or anyone else who has removed this mount, is to replace all 4 mounting bolts, with new high tensile ones, spring washers too. Don't use locktite on the new bolts, for if they shear in the future it will prove very difficult to remove the broken stubs, guards off etc.
I had completely restored my "Landy" but had not touched the original bolts, unbolting the engine mount from the chassis instead. There was nothing to suggest these bolts would fail in the future. I wish I had known earlier as it put a nasty finish to a great holiday. If I were you, I'd replace all 4 of yours, whilst they are easy to get at, one by one mind you, & re-tension them as per specs whilst you are doing it, saves a whole lot of hassles further down the track. OK, that's it from me, I hope it helps you & other Isuzuies. Catchya later, Bill & "The Snail"