101 Handbook

[101RRS]

Does anyone have a link to download a 101 operators handbook like this one. All the links I have tried have the workshop manual, the parts manual and other books but I cannot find the handbook.

Thanks

Garry

[Phoenix]

I don't think i've found the handbook as a download as yet.

[101 Ron]

I do have a user manual if it is any help.
It is nothing too much to get excited about though.

[101RRS]

One of the reasons I want a handbook is because I am still not sure what does what.

Starting on the centre console with the CDL button. Between it and the heater tap I have a white plastic push button switch - what does it do.

On the bracket that has high/low range and the winch lever there is a switch near the base - I assume this is the ventilation fan switch.

Forward of the CDL button I have two seized knobs to pull things - I assume the first is the knob to open the ventilation flab and the second is the choke - the book has this as a curled knob but mine is just a knob.

Where is the throttle hand control - what does it look like - I do not seem to have it.

Where is the fuse box - the book indicates under the dash but I cannot find it.

Where does the winscreen washer bottle go - mine does not have one at the moment - by the book it is the same as my e-type jag.

I cannot get my doors off - I take it they are supposed to just lift up and out - again mine are not budging even with a little help from the universal screwdriver (hammer).

I have time off at the moment and am getting stuck into the truck - the master cylinder and booster came out today - what a bugger of a job - it will be fun getting it back in - haha - I would not have liked to have to work on it in the field after a bullet had gone through there:(. I would have left the truck in the field.

I have ripped out all the old 12v wiring but have had to leave in the 12v alternator as it acts as a pully for the water pump belt - on this the viscous coupling on the fan has seized - I guess this is not a real issue at this time - I will change to electic fans later.

Any information is appreciated. Thanks

Garry

[101 Ron]

The switch between the heater tap and the CDL should not be a switch at all,but a push/pull control for the ram air vent .
The switch at the base of the control levers is a three position low/off/high heater/vent fan speed.

[101 Ron]

The hand throttle was a cable set up with a hand adjustable nut and the part of it which sticks out in the cabin was U shaped and is easily broken.
This set up is usually replaced by a normal push / pull cable.

[101 Ron]

The handthrottle is forward and close to the transfercase lever.
To the rightof it should be cold start(some were wired to dash indicator light).
The washer bottle should be on the passengers side floor hard up against the side of the body........I can take some photos when I get time.
I never tried to get the whole door off.......it should just lift off.
New pastic hinge bushes are advailinle from Anthony in MELB.
The top of the doors come off just like any series rover with two bolts and are a rust point.
My 101 has a lot of wiring details changed in its conversion to 12 volts so photos of mine may not help you there.

[101 Ron]

fuses should be on the side of the front panel adjacent to the clutch pedal.
4 fuses in total mounted together.
The 101 has much extra wiring for the infra red driving light system,blackout light system and the 24volt power and regulation system for the power supply for the rapier missles or radar.
The large rotary light switch on the right side of the dash for the infra red etc is prone to trouble.
The centre of the vehicle just under the windscreen had two guages....amps/volts for rapier output readings.
The winch lever had a switch on it for a dash board indicator light. as did diff lock,choke and every thing else you can think of.
Tracing the wiring is difficult.

[101RRS]

Thanks Ron - looks like I have a few things changed - I need to follow a few things through and see where they go.

I am off to the brake guy to get a few pipes made and some kits for master cylinders etc and the booster tested. And a new piece of sliding glass door - apparently it is easy to get tempered/toughened glass made to size as long as it is flat.

Brakes back together next week and the rust just out of the rear X member - a whole lot of box sections - what were they thinking - rust traps.

Ron - I appreciate your help.

Cheers

Garry

[101 Ron]

I kept breaking the siding glass in the doors as the channels were too lose and the glass would fly forward underbrakes.
The local glass house window crowd had no problems making it using the glass from the other side as a sample.
I tighted up the glass channel a bit with a pair of long nose pliers and no more problems.

[101RRS]

Brakes and glass all coming together. Ordered new wheel cylinders and tyres. I will be using cheap MRF tyres to get the truck registered and when they wear out I will put on different rims and radials. These are only rated at 90 kph which is a worry but it seems the original bar treads are the same.

Anyone know where I can get 101 shock absorber rubbers - I have drawn a blank so far so will be removing a front shocker and hawking it around suspension shops looking for something that will fit.

Garry

[101 Ron]

I need shocker rubbers too.
I think Anthony in Melb has them and the former owner of my machine has some.....the prices are at work?
The rubber and shockers are similar to early Bedford truck.
Shock rubbers are a common 101 replaced part.
My 101 has the transfer cable out of it at the moment.
This photo shows the layout.
See the small thumb wheel near the lever bracket.......this had a U shaped end on it for the hand throttle.
The black knob forward of it is the current hand throttle for the winch.
The radio has replaced the two rapier amp and volt guages.
The handle is of a axe in the rifle holders.
A CB radio is screwed on to the heater housing and a clock near by.
101levers004.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101levers004.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[101 Ron]

Water washer bottle and LHS vent
101levers005.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101levers005.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/02/305.jpg

[101 Ron]

101levers001.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101levers001.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/247.jpg

[101 Ron]

My dash board is non standerd as most people cannot handle the 24 volt electrics......this was done by a previous owner and wiring wise has caused much pain.
101levers002.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101levers002.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/09/701.jpg

101Ron - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?)

[101 Ron]

This is the extra fuel pump.
On the chassis rail you can see the LP Gas supply hose.
The end of the overdrive shift linkage is in view without the cable or transfercase top angle bracket..
101levers008.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101levers008.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/03/114.jpg

[101 Ron]

This is the battery oscillator switches as the vehicle is now 12volt running two 12 volt batterys......just down the side of the left hand seat.
001-2.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=001-2.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/455.jpg

[101 Ron]

Alloy angle pop riveted to the top of the battery cover so things can be placed there and not roll off.
002-2.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=002-2.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/452.jpg

[101 Ron]

Overdrive and where the screw driver is a shorten rangie shift handle lever will connect to the overdrive gear change cable.
101levers007-1.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101levers007-1.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/02/304.jpg

[101 Ron]

This shows the engine driven compressor were the 24 volt altenator used to be.
Gas convertor can be seen and the gas supply via century underthrottle valve into the exsiting manifold balance ports.
A 12 volt altenator is fitted low on the LHS of the motor. not in view.
003-3.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=003-3.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/251.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Ron

Are you using an AirRod converter? Or what brand is it?

On a similar note, this Alex fellow in Melbourne, would he have spares of the gear lever relay mechanisms etc? I am seriously considering going the Range Rover V8/LT95 route for the re-powering of my no. 2 S2B and if the components are available for simple modification to the S2B why go to the effort of designing my own?

Diana

P.S. Hope you don't mind me activating the images within your posts?

[101 Ron]

This the LHS showning the jerry can holder and a extra alloy tool box which carrys the snatch blocks and straps for the winch.
006-1.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=006-1.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/06/456.jpg

[101 Ron]

The gas convertor is a two stage Century.....I think model H as used on industrial equiptment......American.
Image of century gas convertor - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101stuff2006034.jpg)

[101 Ron]

The gear shift set up is very simple and is similar to a old TK Bedford.
No parts are advailible for the gear shift as it doesnt give any trouble.
It can be easily made if you get to see one for ideas.
The pivots can be a old series gear shift ball like the front of a 101 or a small unijoint with the flanges fitted fitted back to back and some pipe.
p://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101stuff2006036.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1191.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The gas convertor is a two stage Century.....I think model H as used on industrial equiptment......American.
Image of century gas convertor - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=101stuff2006034.jpg)

Thanks Ron

Looks a little fuzzy in the pic so hard to determine, but reminded me of the AirRod in my RR classic. Still I like the idea of putting the fitting into the top of the manifold instead of having 2 mixers.

Does the LPG distribute as well as it would when mixed before the carbies?

Diana

[101RRS]

Great pcs - my centre console has things in different places - my heater is currently in the air intact tunnel - not quite sure how it was ever supposed to work - maybe the heater cores are used for addiitonal engine cooling.

My LPG is a bit more basic the airtake hose was cut just after the the airfilter and a big U piece added with the gas converter in there. I guess it worked Ok - something to get going when I get the tank recertified.

Anthony is in the UK so nothing is happening with their "shop". I will have to look elsewhere for shockie rubbers.

Garry

[101 Ron]

007-1.jpg - Image - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting (http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/?action=view&current=007-1.jpg)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/04/250.jpg

[101 Ron]

I will get some rubbers it will take a bit of time to get them off the preivous owner of my vehicle .........I have to get some anyhow.
The gas system is experimental as using the balance port with under throttle century system on constant depression carbies is unheard of.
It works OK and I have done many miles using it because of the price of petrol.
I have been too busy using the vehicle and still need to put the finishing touches to the gas.
A small pipe needs to be fitted to the inside of the manifold to help low speed smoothness and idle.
Mid range is fantastic and leans out at the top end which I think the small pipe in the manifold will fix too or the fitting of a three stage gas convertor with adjustable primary pressure ...ie Beam 120.
Even so it has been working well enough for me to have done about 5000 miles on gas.
The idea was to have no power loss on petrol via the restrictions of a donut and a minimum of cutting and chopping of the vehicle.
The gas can be removed and no one would know if gas had ever been fitted.
The seceret of the under throttle system is the gas throttling valve worked off a micro adjuster linkage from one of the carbies.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The gear shift set up is very simple and is similar to a old TK Bedford.
No parts are advailible for the gear shift as it doesnt give any trouble.
It can be easily made if you get to see one for ideas.
The pivots can be a old series gear shift ball like the front of a 101 or a small unijoint with the flanges fitted fitted back to back and some pipe.


Ron

Yes I know the system, it is very similar to the original Series 2B linkage, with the big difference being that the S2B one has to go over the top of the 6 cyl rocker cover and then down to the gear linkage. The result is that the linkage bends slightly acting like a bow and has a "springy" feel.

My problem is that I have 2.8 X S2Bs and one of the major components that is missing is one of the gear linkage assemblies.

It would have been nice to just buy the whole assembly and merely modify the bit that comes through the engine cover.

If you hear of one being wrecked I'd be in the market - probably for the ex-manifolds as well.

Diana

[101 Ron]

The fan for the heater and cool air ventilation is fitted in the radiator tunnel at the top just behind the grill and has a dome grill over the inlet to keep the blow flys out.
The MRFs will not be a problem as the 101 was made for these tyres and my 101 has been wound up to 120kph a few times and the MRFS and the Nakangs on the back have not fallen off.
The biggest problem with the bar treads is a wet road with the heavy steering of the 101 and the answer is to beware and reduce speed.

[101RRS]

The MRFs will not be a problem as the 101 was made for these tyres and my 101 has been wound up to 120kph a few times and the MRFS and the Nakangs on the back have not fallen off.
The biggest problem with the bar treads is a wet road with the heavy steering of the 101 and the answer is to beware and reduce speed.

I am getting a "sand" pattern rather than bar treads.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/02/300.jpg

[101 Ron]

Go for it!

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I am getting a "sand" pattern rather than bar treads.


Garry - let us know how they go and how much they end up costing.

Diana

Ron - you don't feel like doing the final assembly on a Rover 3 litre 6 do you?

[101RRS]

let us know how much they end up costing.


$215 each - tyre only not fitted, no tubes etc

[101 Ron]

I get enough F head therapy with my old willys Jeep .
I gave up on Rover 6s when I left RAEME Army Reserve many years ago.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I get enough F head theropy with my old willys Jeep .
I gave up on Rover 6s when I left RAEME Army Reserve many years ago.
Oh well I guess it's out with the manuals and some spanners and follow the instructions.

Were Willy's Jeeps "F" head ? Not that I would know but I got the impression they were flat heads - you learn something new everyday.

- Regarding the 3 litre, I have the oil cooler fittings of a mil SIII - good idea to fit or not?

Diana

[cooee]

hi garycol:p
i have done fair bit of work on my 101c i found it easeir to take front nose cone off as lot easier to get to wireing and to do brake master cyl
just depends on how much time you got to do things i could you photos but hard for me to work out to get on site
send me pm of e mail address i e mail photos to give you some ideas:D

cheers cooee

[Phoenix]

Cooee, got a chassis number for your 101, or have I asked you for that already :lol2:

[101RRS]

hi garycol:p
i have done fair bit of work on my 101c i found it easeir to take front nose cone off as lot easier to get to wireing and to do brake master cyl
just depends on how much time you got to do things i could you photos but hard for me to work out to get on site
send me pm of e mail address i e mail photos to give you some ideas:D

cheers cooee

Thanks for the information and the offer - saw you truck in the galleries - nice :)

Are you modelling your truck on this one?

101 Forward Control (http://www.eastcoastrover.com/104.html)

I will persist with the nose cone on at the moment because I know it will cause me more grief:(

My main problem is that my truck has been sitting for a long time after returning from a long round Aust trip - still has heaps of SA mud under it and most things have siezed and corroded. Also a few starnge mods like moving the heater matrix from inside the cabin to the tunnel in front of the oil cooler - probably to help in engine cooling when being used in the top end - down side was no inside air and for me now no heater for Canberras cold cold winters.

Cheers

Garry

[MudSkull]

Does anyone have a link to download a 101 operators handbook like this one. All the links I have tried have the workshop manual, the parts manual and other books but I cannot find the handbook.

Thanks

Garry

Hi Garry,

Here is a link to the 101 handbook

http://redmoon.com.au/101/101fc_user_manual.pdf

Right click the link and choose "save target as"

Cheers

Wayne..

[101RRS]

Hi Garry,

Here is a link to the 101 handbook

http://redmoon.com.au/101/101fc_user_manual.pdf

Right click the link and choose "save target as"

Cheers

Wayne..

Thats the one - thanks.

Garry

[Phoenix]

Added to the REMLR archive, thanks ;)