D3 Electric Trailer brake wired-photo

[sniegy]

Hi all,
Earlier this week i had to wire a customers vehicle for Electric Trailer Brakes.
I took a couple of photos & this one was the best with everything in 1 shot.
I will try to explain basically as last time it wasnt to clear!!:(
Run 4 wires from the Electric trailer brake unit mounted under the steering column or where ever it is mounted to the rear of the vehilce l/h/s 1/4 panel.
WHITE wire is for earth & gets bolted to one of the terminals as u see in the photo.
BLACK wire is for power +ve & is connected to the 30amp circuit breaker & then another black wire from the circuit breaker (other side)gets connected to the thick PURPLE wire from the trailer wiring plug.
BLUE wire is for variable voltage feed to the electric brakes on your towed vehicle. This is connected to the brown wire from the fuse block. This wire is cut 30mm from the fuse block & the fuse block end is then soldered to the black wire in the fuse block(these are 2 park light circuits & we only need 1) The other end of the Brown wire goes to pin 5 which is for electric brake feed.
RED is brake light feed pick up This is connected to the Green/Purple trace wire in the trailer wiring plug.
As per LR instructions a "Diode" must be fitted & this goes between the connection of the red wire to the Green/Purple Kathode facing the electric brake unit.
**On the photo i ran out of blue wire & used another black for the blue wire connection to the brown wire.
When i receive stock of the blue i will replace photo.
Hope this helps some of the crew.:);)
If the photo is not big enough go to my gallery & view orig size.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/987.jpg

[Timj]

Hi Sniegy,

That is a very useful photo, thanks. One question though - where did you run the wiring to get it from the front through into the back corner? I am currently trying to work out where to run cables for both the Prodigy controller and the extensions from a second battery. I know they can be run inside the chassis rail but then they have to be brought back inside somehow and if there is some way to run them inside I then need to get some of the wiring outside to run to the battery in the trailer.

My D3 is now just over a week old so I have to start modifying :D.

Tim.

[sniegy]

Hi Timj,
I ran the wiring from the front panel below the steering column across the under tray where the pedals are & then ran them straight down the side of the vehicle. It is very easy running cables down the side.:)
The trim from the front drivers tread plate & the rear tread plate is one plastc panel & i removed this (all u do is gently prise it upwards) as well as the "B" pillar trim so i could remove this one panel all together.
I then ran the 4 cables next to the felt door seal all the way along, Near the "C" pillar it all just tucks nicely away under the big 1/4 panel. I then removed the tailgate flap & tucked it under the carpet to get it to the L/H/S.
To gain access into the vehicle from the engine bay there is a large grommet under the brake fluid panel. It sits on the firewall towards the centre of the vehicle, with a torch u cant miss...just a bit of sound deadening on the inside.:)

[Petian]

As my camper has been ordered with electric brakes I'm looking for a good controller. Ive been told by the camper manufacture ARB have one for about $400, any suggestions.

[PCH]

If you can find out from your camper trailer dealer what is approved with the brake set up then list up the alternatives they suggest.

This comment might not be appliable to all braking systems but is on my van.

Chris

[smwilk]

Hi sgieny

Thanks for your photos and comments, I'm 90% there. Just two queries, firstly I assume the circuit braker is after market (dual battery) and under the bonnet? and secondly what type of diode do you use and the best place to source one.

Thanks again.

[sniegy]

Hi sgieny

Thanks for your photos and comments, I'm 90% there. Just two queries, firstly I assume the circuit braker is after market (dual battery) and under the bonnet? and secondly what type of diode do you use and the best place to source one.

Thanks again.
Hi There "smwilK",
OK the circuit breaker is an after market unit, but it is basicaly a no intervention resetable fuse. In the picture u can just see it at the bottom of the photo. It gets taped up & cable tied to the wiring loom. Get one of these at any Bursons/Repco shop nearest to you.
The Diode is just a 3amp version that can be picked up for not much more than a dollar from Dick Smith's or some electronics shop close to yourself.

[dmdigital]

Hi Pete is the Diode only a D3 requirement:confused: I assume it is used for over voltage protection, is it needed in a D2?

I'm putting a Tekonsha P3 into my D2 and came across this thread.

[rovers4]

Yes I also query the Diode.
I also want to know which controller and what vehicle/model you are citing.

My rig, a Defender needed only one wire to the back.
The white wire goes directly to ground near the Tekonsha controller. The power comes accross from the battery under the floor, up under the fire wall to near the steering column, in there through a new hole drilled downwards with grommet, accross to controller.
The brake light sensor pickup comes directly off the switch for the brakelight.

My tips are to run oversized wires from the battery (but fused near the battery, at the requiste current - around 10-15A.), and also back to the rear socket. I also fuse the sensor feed at about 500mA.

:):o:D

[sniegy]

Hi Pete is the Diode only a D3 requirement:confused: I assume it is used for over voltage protection, is it needed in a D2?

I'm putting a Tekonsha P3 into my D2 and came across this thread.
Hi Derek,
No a diode is not required in a D2, D1 or Defender as the diode protects the CJB (Central Junction Box) in the newer D3/RRS/Vogues.
In eliminates feed back to this CJB so as not to damage it, more for protection as the CJB controls a lot of stuff & is one expensive ECU.

Rovers4, I would strongly recommend that the earth wire (white) be run back to the battery as per instructions on all EBC's. This can cause a fire hazard as the unit may get hot as the earth becomes over time less conductive & corrosion sets in between the connection.

[amaruskanic]

Many thanks to Pete for the advice posted here. I successfuly installed my Hayman Reese controller over the weekend.
I did make one small change to Pete's wiring though. Instead of placing the diode on the wire running from the brake controller, I placed it upstream on the green / purple wire (ie between the CJB unit and the place where I tapped the green/purple wire). The purpose of doing this was to allow the EBC to activate the brake lights when it is operated manually by the driver whilst still providing protection to to the CJB unit.
Note: This will only turn on the trailer brake lights, as the tow vehicle lights are on a seperate circuit.

Andrew

[sniegy]

Hi Andrew,
Did some testing over the w/end & yes you are correct.
I have now altered my method of fitting the diode to upstream of the green/purple wire.
I then attach the red wire from the controller to the kathode end of the diode & green/purple wire togethor.

I will adjust the photo hopefully some time this week.

Cheers all.

[Bushwanderer]

Hi Sniegy,
CW, on another forum :angel:, has described a fitment w/o using the diode. Are you in a position to comment?

Best Wishes,
Peter

[sniegy]

Hi Pete,
Yes i did see "his" comment:eek:.
What he says is what he says, I am not fussed, Only trying to help.

I am only doing as LR say, I have paperwork at work (I work for a dealer)
& can only go by what LRA send to me wrt wiring specifications.
I cant unfortunately copy this paperwork for obvious reasons.

The diode is specifically in the instructions, therefore i "will" fit it & will pass as much info as i am possibly aloud to likewise enthusiasts.
It is there for a reason & that is to protect your CJB. If u get some backfeed from your Electric Trailer brake unit(say it short circuits for some reason), It can cause the CJB to burn out..Then you are up for some big bucks. Car stops & goes no-where. Part is VIN order only & can take some time to get here.
I am not trying to scare anyone, but this may happen(and has, i have seen 2 vehicles in the workshop when the D3 was early released & customers took them to their local Auto sparky), may happen, I would rather be safe than stuck somewhere towing your Van, Boat or Bike trailer..

I am not going to get into a stupid argument over an ETB unit for the sake of it. I will give him credit for what he has done. He has deciphered wiring instructions off a NAS D3 & has done well. Good on him & if it works for all the best.
This does have a plug which we do not get in our loom. (which would of been handy).

As said Pete happy to help in any way.

I will try to download a newer photo sometime this week....Hopefully.;)

Cheers

[Bushwanderer]

Hi Sniegy,
Thanks for taking the time to clarify. :BigThumb::BigThumb::BigThumb:
Best Wishes,
Peter
Ps: Would you care to post similar details on the "other" forum? I suggest this as I am a naivete and would hold no authority.

[sniegy]

Hi Pete,
Preferably Not.
I would rather just state the facts here as i support this forum.

There is a link & if he wishes to read what has been posted here then great. No need to get into a bicker about something silly.

I think we are better than that.:p

Cheers.

[Bushwanderer]

Hi Pete,
I respect your point of view.

I was not interested in starting a bicker session, but rather to give an alternative point of view.

Their loss.

I look forward to your update.

Best Wishes,
Pete

[RichardK]

A couple of questions:

I have just wired up the new disco as per the above details and put the diode in as per the 2nd suggested way;

Is it OK to use heat shrink tube on the diode?

When I plug the trailer in the Discos' tail lights come on, would that be feedback from my trailers battery?

Does anyone have the wiring pin numbers for the large pin plug, is it the same as the small plugs?

[MarknDeb]

I have all the trailer plug diagrams here ;)
12 volt stuff (http://caravanninginaus.forums-free.com/12-volt-stuff-f13.html)

[catweasel]

I am not going to get into a stupid argument over an ETB unit I do not wish to either but will post in order to give a balanced revue.
firstly my concern was that your method would not operate the vehicles brake lights by the inclusion of the diode which was a safety issue for me and I stated somewhere if a diode was to be used that it should be moved and this has been addressed.
from another thread elsewhere I did a bit of digging and found that Land Rover UK had designed the LR3 with a brake controller in mind and the designers saw fit not to include a diode ( I believe module D162 adresses this on the pcb as it can get a backfeed/short/ground from its own lighting cct should a fault occur). a short cct will only apply 12v to the brake cct which is what the over ride does anyway and when the pedal is depressed its (the D3)owns system will apply 12v to the CJB which has no diode. only a catastrophic failure of the controller may cause an issue but then you can simply unplug it. if you look at the wiring diag the brake controller poses no more threat than the left,right and upper brake lights under fault conditions

that is my view on the subject and what I did. people can choose their preferred method.:BigThumb:

[llubnrut]

Hi Derek,
No a diode is not required in a D2, D1 or Defender as the diode protects the CJB (Central Junction Box) in the newer D3/RRS/Vogues.
In eliminates feed back to this CJB so as not to damage it, more for protection as the CJB controls a lot of stuff & is one expensive ECU.

Rovers4, I would strongly recommend that the earth wire (white) be run back to the battery as per instructions on all EBC's. This can cause a fire hazard as the unit may get hot as the earth becomes over time less conductive & corrosion sets in between the connection.

Hi Sniegy, I am confused... above you suggest that the white wire be connected directly to the battery, but your first post with photo shows and if I am correct states that you connect it to the metal post below the back fuse panel. Am I missing something?

Thanks
Craig

[sniegy]

Hi Craig,
Sorry for the late reply,

Yes, i did quote what was said, but if you read Rovers4 post, he states he owns a Defender & this is what this is referring to not a D3.

Cheers.;)

[harlie]

firstly my concern was that your method would not operate the vehicles brake lights by the inclusion of the diode which was a safety issue for me and I stated somewhere if a diode was to be used that it should be moved and this has been addressed.


I'm sure we would find it a legal requirement to ignite the brake lights when the manual override is activated. Definitely was when I installed my last one in 2005.

[llubnrut]

Thanks for clearing that up for me. I have my Cousin (an Auto Electrician) connecting it all up for me, I am just running the wires. So I don't need to run any wires directly to the battery, I can just run 4 wires to the rear from the brake control unit?

Thanks again
Craig

[sniegy]

Yep, 4 wires from the position where u want to mount the controller to the rear passenger side. ;)

Cheers

[Mal_W]

I have been following this thread with interest as I picked up my MY09 D3 last week and am starting to set it up. I have a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller and also the Traxide SC80 kit to install. Since I will be running wires for the Traxide kit through the firewall and need power up front for the UHF radio and an extra cig lighter outlet, is there any reason why I couldn't provide the +ve and -ve to the brake controller direct from the battery rather than pick it up in the rear compartment? Then I would only extend the 2 wires (Blue & Red) through to the back.
One slight concern is that in the photo the size of the fuses, going by their colour, doesn't seem to match mine. The manual states top to bottom,
1 7.5amp Brake
2 15 Ignition feed
3 15 Battery feed
4 15 Rear fog lamps
5 5 RH Tail
6 5 No plate & LH lamp
and the fuses are those sizes. Any reason the fuses in the photo seem to be different?

As my box trailer, boat and caravan all have 7 pin flat plugs I have bought an adaptor from the LR socket to flat seven. Any issues with this?

I certainly want to start on the right foot.

Mal_W

[amaruskanic]

Mal,
Thats how I did mine and it works fine. +ve to battery and -ve to right front earth point.

I wired the UHF off a blank relay behind the glove compartment. A spade connector slides neatly into the relay slots. You can pick constant or accessory power by changing slots.

Andrew

[smwilk]

Mal,

That's precisely how I did mine as well with same products. There's an earth bolt behind the drivers kick panel.

[Brick]

Sniegy,

Thanks for this useful post. Have mounted my EBC and works fine. :BigThumb: A bit tight in wiring to the trailer loom in the rear.

A quick question. I have soldered the diode to the wires. I was wondering whether the heat from the soldering iron would affect the diode?

Thanks,

[sniegy]

Hi Brick,
The solder if done quickly & with precision should be fine, just be careful when placing the diode as this little sucker does get warm itself.

Cheers

[outbacktourer]

Just took delivery of my D4 TDV6 HSE, probably built around March. I cannot find this fuse arrangement in the rear LHS and notice the trailer fuses are listed in the Passenger Compartment fuse list. Looks like wiring has changed, any comment on where to go from here?

[sniegy]

This is only for the Discovery 3, Search the forum & there is one specifically for the Discovery 4. The later photo's in that thread are better than the first ones.

Cheers.

p.s. there are no fuses, thats why you cant find em';)

[discobean]

Thanks sniegy, done this today and it worked a treat.

[tiojeffe]

Mate,

It looks as though the fuses are up side down in relation to the colour of the wires. The 2x 5 amp fuses (orange) should be at the bottom with the brown and black wire joined together...

Thanks for the assistance though. I was stuck untill I saw this write up.

So if a trailer with electric trailer brakes fitted was plugged in to a LD3 the brakes would be applied when the parkers were turned on. Is that right? It can't be, but I can't see it any other way at the moment.

Tiojeffe.

[sniegy]

This could happen if the brown wire is not cut!
If the lights are set on auto & a trailer is attached with electric trailer brakes & you travel under a bridge for instance.
If the modification is not done, then power is fed to pin 5 & the brakes are applied at full voltage.

That is one smoking hot trailer!!!!

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[tiojeffe]

Thought so. I followed the instructions and they were spot on. I ran a power feed from the main battery with a circuit breaker there. I think from looking at the fuses the batt feed to the white trailer plug is 30 amps so that could be used instead I believe. Also my Parkers on the trailer did not work until I did the electric trailer brake controller install... Very weird.

[boolyb]

Thats pretty much how i wire them and i also work for a dealer, only thing i have changed recently is i now wire as close to the back of the trailer plug as poss into pin 5, the reason for this is after monitoring the amps drawn on the trailer brake circuit on my own d4 set up it consistantly drew 23-26 amps, this was with a twin axle caravan, 4 magnet system. and was coming back down the toowoomba ranges. so the system was getting a work out. just feel the original wiring to pin 5 from splice at tail light is a bit light on for full load. mostones i fit get anderson plugs at same time so i usually whip the rear bumper off anyway to keep things neat. hope this is helpful

[doddsy]

Any chance of pics of where you now join the wire ?

[DRD]

I have just found that my D4 turns off the front park assist when a trailer even though the parking on/off switch is lite. Has anyone got any ideas as it would have thought that the trailer connection would have only turned off the rear sensors.
Des

[AndrewM]

Hi Sniegy
On my MY08D3, what size wires should I run from the EBC to the back, and in particular the blue wire for the brake current on Pin 5 - 3mm2 or bigger?

The brown wire from the fuse block to the trailer socket looks a bit light. Could I connect the blue from the EBC directly to the socket or is it totally inaccessible? (Probably, as I have a Mitch Hitch)

I plan to run the earth and power directly to the main battery through the firewall. Any reason not to do this and to run all 4 wire to the LHR panel?

Thanks
Andrew

[sniegy]

Hi Andrew,
Should run 4mm2 on the Blue at min. The rest at 3mm2 should be fine.
I now run to the plugs for connection of the blue wire
as this gives the factory wiring only a small length to be used.
Remove spare wheel & cut back sheath & connect in there.

I would run the +ve & -ve direct to the battery also as per the D4 write up.
Take note there is a write up just for the D3.

Cheers

[AndrewM]

Thanks. :)
I assume if I go straight to the plug with the blue that the brown still needs to be cut near the fuse block and reconnected, and a 3A diode fitted?

Can you guide me to the write-up just for the D3 please? I've searched for D3+trailer+brakes but no luck :(

[sniegy]

Thanks. :)
I assume if I go straight to the plug with the blue that the brown still needs to be cut near the fuse block and reconnected, and a 3A diode fitted?

Can you guide me to the write-up just for the D3 please? I've searched for D3+trailer+brakes but no luck :(

Hey again Andrew,
Yes the brown wire still needs the modification as per the D3 write up. See photo.
Also the diode needs to be fitted.
Sorry this is the D3 write up....Ooops!
The D4 & Spt have there own.
Cheers

Sent from my iPad using Forum Runner

[gossamer]

Many thanks to Pete for the advice posted here. I successfuly installed my Hayman Reese controller over the weekend.
I did make one small change to Pete's wiring though. Instead of placing the diode on the wire running from the brake controller, I placed it upstream on the green / purple wire (ie between the CJB unit and the place where I tapped the green/purple wire). The purpose of doing this was to allow the EBC to activate the brake lights when it is operated manually by the driver whilst still providing protection to to the CJB unit.
Note: This will only turn on the trailer brake lights, as the tow vehicle lights are on a seperate circuit.

Andrew

is their a photo or a diagram of this somewhere?

[shining]

There is one at the start of this thread. D3 or D4?

[alanbettison]

I recently fitted Tekonsha P3 to my D2 as per the supplied wiring diagram - works a treat

I did not wire the unit to work off the ignition - this means the unit will remain on after you have switched the engine off, the unit goes to sleep mode and I have had no problems - thought you may wish to know

+ I wired it from the brake lights as opposed to the brake light controller switch above the brake pedal - it was easier to locate the right feed and did not interfere with any of the other electricary that comes from that switch - they can be very sensitve

[gossamer]

There is one at the start of this thread. D3 or D4?

Not of the new way of fitting the diode but I found one in another thread
thanks

[Fitzy2011]

Having never installed one of these before and without much of a clue, I used these instructions and it has all been completed. I would not have even tried before, so great work thanks.

Ken

[Sm0Ke]

Has anyone managed to run their battery & earth from the drivers side through the firewall to the battery on a RRS? I'm looking to get through into the engine compartment but I'm only left with what looks like 2 entry points, that being the steering column entry and the brake booster.

Does the RRS have to be run from the passanger side through the firewall, or is there another grommet I am missing?

*EDIT - found the grommet, just had an unusual wiring loom mess in the way!

[NutoLR]

Hi all,
Earlier this week i had to wire a customers vehicle for Electric Trailer Brakes.
I took a couple of photos & this one was the best with everything in 1 shot.
I will try to explain basically as last time it wasnt to clear!!:(
Run 4 wires from the Electric trailer brake unit mounted under the steering column or where ever it is mounted to the rear of the vehilce l/h/s 1/4 panel.
WHITE wire is for earth & gets bolted to one of the terminals as u see in the photo.
BLACK wire is for power +ve & is connected to the 30amp circuit breaker & then another black wire from the circuit breaker (other side)gets connected to the thick PURPLE wire from the trailer wiring plug.
BLUE wire is for variable voltage feed to the electric brakes on your towed vehicle. This is connected to the brown wire from the fuse block. This wire is cut 30mm from the fuse block & the fuse block end is then soldered to the black wire in the fuse block(these are 2 park light circuits & we only need 1) The other end of the Brown wire goes to pin 5 which is for electric brake feed.
RED is brake light feed pick up This is connected to the Green/Purple trace wire in the trailer wiring plug.
As per LR instructions a "Diode" must be fitted & this goes between the connection of the red wire to the Green/Purple Kathode facing the electric brake unit.
**On the photo i ran out of blue wire & used another black for the blue wire connection to the brown wire.
When i receive stock of the blue i will replace photo.
Hope this helps some of the crew.:);)
If the photo is not big enough go to my gallery & view orig size.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/987.jpg


Many thanks to Pete for the advice posted here. I successfuly installed my Hayman Reese controller over the weekend.
I did make one small change to Pete's wiring though. Instead of placing the diode on the wire running from the brake controller, I placed it upstream on the green / purple wire (ie between the CJB unit and the place where I tapped the green/purple wire). The purpose of doing this was to allow the EBC to activate the brake lights when it is operated manually by the driver whilst still providing protection to to the CJB unit.
Note: This will only turn on the trailer brake lights, as the tow vehicle lights are on a seperate circuit.

Andrew

Hi Pete,

Back in Oct 2012 you offered a detailed response to questions I had regarding the installation of a Tekonshsa P3 EBC in my 2008/2009 RRS. In fact, I didn't do the install at the time because the caravan deal fell through. But have now bought a van and I have to get the EBC installed quickly so I can go to Melbourne to pick it up next week. I have 2 questions this time.

The first concerns the placement of the diode. I will splice it into the green-purple wire with the cathode end pointing back to the EBC (per Andrew's suggestion). But, can you advise (referencing your photo) whether it is located above or below the junction of the red wire and the green-purple wire? In other words, how do I identify which end of the green-purple wire goes to the CJB, or is it obvious once the loom is exposed?

Regarding the blue connection to the brown wire going to pin-5 of 12S socket is it feasible to take the blue (heavier) wire all the way to the socket?

Thanks
John ...

[Meken]

The diode will need to go into the trailer loom wiring between the trailer ecu & the red wire - it's meant to stop the current in the red wire (when using manual lever) making it's way to the trailer ecu. The trailer stop lighst must illuminate when manual lever operated (so if the diode is in the red wire or "downstream" from the connection of red wire to trailer loom the diode will stop the current flow illuminating trailer lights & let current flow to trailer ecu)
Good idea to take blue wire all the way to socket as ensures highest current carrying capacity to socket.
PS the power feed should come direct from battery with the auto resetting breaker - least risk of power failure to unit.

[sniegy]

Hi John,
The wiring harness in the vehicle in the photo has a white tag on it. This "IS" the trailer harness side. From the Grey plug that goes back into the vehicle wiring harness & towards the CJB.

The Blue wire to the Socket can be done if you follow the factory wiring harness once you remove the tail light assembly. It can't go into the rear of the socket as it has a hard resin filled section. So i just connect it behind the plugs which leaves about 4-6 inches or original cable.

Cheers

[NutoLR]

Hi Pete,

That is exactly what I wanted confirmed; thank you.

Thanks also for clarifying the blue wire/brown wire socket connection. I will run with that advice too.

Cheers
John ....

[NutoLR]

Hi John,
The wiring harness in the vehicle in the photo has a white tag on it. This "IS" the trailer harness side. From the Grey plug that goes back into the vehicle wiring harness & towards the CJB.

The Blue wire to the Socket can be done if you follow the factory wiring harness once you remove the tail light assembly. It can't go into the rear of the socket as it has a hard resin filled section. So i just connect it behind the plugs which leaves about 4-6 inches or original cable.

Cheers

Hi Pete,

Sorry to bother you with this issue again!

As you will see from the montage of photos I've taken of the wiring behind the LHS tail light of my 08 RRS, I am a bit confused about which of the 2 green/purple wires I need to cut to fit the diode. Is it the one going to the green connector, or the one to the grey connector?

Also, unlike your D3 photo, you'll also notice the trailer tag is under the car one the cable near the back of the trailer sockets in the chassis cross member. Is it therefore correct that the diode must prevent current feed up the green/purple wire (which ever one it is)? "Up" in this case, means towards the grey or green connectors shown in the photos.

Note that i think there are wires to the grey connector, and 7 to the green connector.

Comments appreciated...

Cheers,
John

[NutoLR]

Pete,
I realize that you refer (in your response of 11/06/14) to the grey plug (that goes towards the CJB), but since I didn't see a green plug in your photo, I assumed that maybe the RRS might be slightly different ...! Of course, if I'd had any experience with D3's i should know that, but I don't, hence the caution.
Cheers,
John

[101RRS]

I assume the information on this thread as it was started in 2008 applies to the D3 and the equivalent RRS? I have to put in a brake controller and I want to make sure I am not following D4 instructions.

Garry

[sniegy]

Hey John,
It is still the one in the Grey plug. The green plug from memory is the rear park sensor loom. The wire sizes will be different also & the one in the grey plug will be thicker.

Better being cautious than not.

Cheers

[NutoLR]

I assume the information on this thread as it was started in 2008 applies to the D3 and the equivalent RRS? I have to put in a brake controller and I want to make sure I am not following D4 instructions.

Garry

Hi Garry,

Yes, this is the thread for the D3/RRS, not the D4.

Cheers,
John .....

[NutoLR]

Thanks Pete.

Cheers,
John ...

[NutoLR]

Hey John,
It is still the one in the Grey plug. The green plug from memory is the rear park sensor loom. The wire sizes will be different also & the one in the grey plug will be thicker.

Better being cautious than not.

Cheers

Hi Pete (and others),
I've fitted the diode now but still cautious - but may be now I have just become paranoid! Hence the quick and dirty little pseudo circuit schematic attached to show how I installed said diode. If it's wrong someone please let me know before I power up .....

Thanks,
John .....

[sniegy]

That is correct as Andrew's adjustments.

Cheers

[NutoLR]

That is correct as Andrew's adjustments.

Cheers

Hi sniegy

Regarding the 12S socket, in an earlier post you said that you believed the Blue pink-trace wire was the 30amp battery supply, and that the Brown yellow-trace wire was the switched (ignition) 15amp (fridge) supply. Can you or others confirm this please?

Thanks
John ....

[NutoLR]

12S socket. Have just discovered that Pin 3 is the earth and Pin-4 the 30amp supply. The centre pin (7) is the earth for the switched 15amp supply on Pin-6.

Cheers
John ...

[Meken]

Nice drawing :)

[101RRS]

As we know the standard wiring in the car has individual wires going through the standard trailer socket for each of the tail lights. On Australian trailer's wiring one of these is for the electric trailer brakes so if not disabled when you put the lights on the trailer brakes come on if you have not yet wired up your car.

At the moment I have pulled the relevant fuse in the back of the car so no power is in this circuit at the moment.

When I put my brake controller in I will cut the tail light wire on the power side of the rear fuse box and connect the electric brake wire from the controller to the power side of the fuse box using the cars wiring on the other side of the fuse to power the electric brakes.

So two questions:

1. What size fuse do I need to put into the rear fuse box for the electric trailer brakes?

2. Is the wiring at the rear of the car (from the rear fuse box to the socket) that was originally intended to only power one tail light large enough for the electric brake system?

Thanks

Garry

[Meken]

The two sides of the tail lights come from ONE common tail light wire AFTER the trailer module so I wouldn't go cutting anything at the fuse box - search sneigy has posted very good instructions on where to cut in

[101RRS]

Ok thanks but that is not the case with my vehicle.

The rear fuse box has two seperate tail light wires going in and two going out - I have one of the fuses removed so it will not activate the trailer brakes when the headlights are on.

Cutting the power side of this fuse and supplying the signal from the brake controller will provide the brake signal through the old single tail light wiring to the blue trailer brake wire in the trailer wiring.


Run 4 wires from the Electric trailer brake unit mounted under the steering column or where ever it is mounted to the rear of the vehilce l/h/s 1/4 panel.


Sniegy - why did you run all four wires to the rear and not just the single wire that operates the brakes and connect the other wires (earth, battery power, brake signal ignition etc) from the dash.


Cheers

Garry

[Meken]

Weird - why not cut the side after the fuse and connect there - I wouldn't like a fuse between my brake controller and brakes?

Edited

[101RRS]

Weird - why not cut the side post fuse and connect there - I wouldn't like a fuse between my brake controller and brakes?

Sorry - don't know what a side post fuse is - my rear fuse box is under the lift up floor in the rear.

Understand what you mean by why a fuse - and I agree. If that is considered not desirable then I will just take the electric brake wire to the dead side of the fuse box so making a direct connection and leave the fuse out.

Cheers

Garry

[shining]

Weird - why not cut the side post fuse and connect there - I wouldn't like a fuse between my brake controller and brakes?

I have probably mis-read your post, so apologies in advance but there are fuses in all critical systems in a D3/4/RRS. Suspension, transmission, lights, ECM, brake booster pump to name but a few.

[Meken]

I have probably mis-read your post, so apologies in advance but there are fuses in all critical systems in a D3/4/RRS. Suspension, transmission, lights, ECM, brake booster pump to name but a few.




Edited my posting - I meant to cut the wiring on the side after the fuse.
My P3 install details had the blue wire direct from controller to trailer socket.
If fuse blows how do you know? When the brakes don't work when needed! I take your point that there Are fuses in the systems in the car but I doubt any of these affect your ability to use the brakes when you put your foot on the brake pedal (and the car is so smart it will tell you there is a problem with one of those internal systems that are fuse protected )

[NTDisco3]

A quick question for anyone in the know, whilst planning to install a brake controller in the LHR panel as per Sniegy's instruction (thanks to all who have provided info on this - installing this w/e), I came across two plugs (see image) which do not seem to lead to anything and so was wondering what they were for? Diagnostics?

Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

[sniegy]

Ok thanks but that is not the case with my vehicle.

The rear fuse box has two seperate tail light wires going in and two going out - I have one of the fuses removed so it will not activate the trailer brakes when the headlights are on.

Cutting the power side of this fuse and supplying the signal from the brake controller will provide the brake signal through the old single tail light wiring to the blue trailer brake wire in the trailer wiring.



Sniegy - why did you run all four wires to the rear and not just the single wire that operates the brakes and connect the other wires (earth, battery power, brake signal ignition etc) from the dash.


Cheers

Garry

Hi Gary,
Sorry for the Late Late reply as i have been overseas & just catching up on some of the posts.
Reason i ran all 4 cables is thats what LR tell us to do. (Must follow there instructions) The only difference i would do on pre 10MY vehicles is run the +ve & -ve wires direct to the battery now.
The red & blue still need to be run to the rear & connected to the "Trailer Harness" & all connections be made to it & obviously modify the fuse holder as required.

Cheers

[sniegy]

A quick question for anyone in the know, whilst planning to install a brake controller in the LHR panel as per Sniegy's instruction (thanks to all who have provided info on this - installing this w/e), I came across two plugs (see image) which do not seem to lead to anything and so was wondering what they were for? Diagnostics?

Can anyone point me in the right direction please?

NT,
These are not the plugs you require. They are more behind the tail light & tucked up away a little.

Cheers

[NTDisco3]

Thanks Sniegy, although I was actually just wondering what the two plugs were for?

[NTDisco3]

Also, could you please let me know what size diode is appropraite for this application. I am installing a redarc tow pro with a nominal 18A current draw?

Thanks

[NTDisco3]

Hi Pete, did you mean the 5 pin on the 12N socket rather than the 12S socket please?

Regards,

NT

[sniegy]

NT,
I just use a 3amp diode. 80 cents from jaycar.
Also not sure what you mean about the 12n plug.

Cheers

[NTDisco3]

Hi Sniegy, one last question (hopefully...) with respect to the power connection - black wire - which is connected to the thick purple wire from the trailer wiring plug. Does the black power wire get spliced into the purple or is the purple wire cut and the live end connected to the black wire and the free end of the cut purple wire simply taped up and left unused?

Regards,

NT

[Graeme]

If fuse blows how do you know? When the brakes don't work when needed!I realise the comment was made a while ago but because the P3 displays the applied voltage on its trailer brake circuit when there is indeed a circuit, even when zero volts, then one would know if a fuse was blown because the display would not be the voltage display. This is the same as not hooking-up the trailer plug - no circuit, no voltage display.

However if an appropriate auto-resetting circuit breaker has been installed as per P3 installation recommendations near the power source then protection is already provided and makes such a fuse redundant and has the opportunity to reduce the availabilty of the trailer brake system.

[sniegy]

Hi Sniegy, one last question (hopefully...) with respect to the power connection - black wire - which is connected to the thick purple wire from the trailer wiring plug. Does the black power wire get spliced into the purple or is the purple wire cut and the live end connected to the black wire and the free end of the cut purple wire simply taped up and left unused?

Regards,

NT

NT,
If you are running the wires to the rear, either is appropriate. Doesn't really make a difference, if you cut the wire this then now means no power if required to the plug.

I now run the Black +ve wire & White -ve wire to the battery direct out the front.

Cheers.

[Brightsbane]

Sorry to revive this thread but I had a Land Rover specialist mechanic install my TowPro and I've noticed that he spliced the Red wire to the Green/Purple wire coming from the 7.5A Fuse and not to the Green/Purple wire coming from the Grey plug as in the original picture/instruction in this thread. He also didn't use a diode. Will that make a difference?

[sniegy]

PM answered.
:)

[Brightsbane]

Thanks Sneigy. This has been a bit of a challenge as my wiring seems to be all over the shop. I've just pulled the LH tail light off (previous owner upgraded to D4 lights) and found that the brown wire has been cut and spliced to the tail light feed (red/black wire) for the rear light unit and the black and blue wires have been cut which means the feed from my EBC unit wasn't going anywhere. I will now be running a blue wire direct to the plug.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/05/1181.jpg (http://s783.photobucket.com/user/Brightsbane/media/IMG_2464_zpspzlhtr1x.jpg.html)

I'm not sure if this has been posted before but I found this page very useful:

13 Pin European trailer plugs (http://www.labtronx.com.au/13-pin-european-trailer-plugs.htm)

[hyfrover]

Very helpful. Used these instructions for my RRS. Took under 2 hours to complete. Thanks again

[SaltyNalty]

G'day,

I've finished installing my tow pro. I put the control knob half way up the U shaped surround in the dash. I ran 2 6mm lines from the aux battery, I stripped the system from my Patrol. 1 wire is for the tow pro, which is in the right rear quarter panel and I ran the other for an anderson plug.

Now I've finished the install I've noticed the indicators flickering, which I've bought some resistors in order to emulate incandescent globes.

The reverse lights on the trailer also activate with the rear fog lights rather than the reverse lights. Is there an easy fix for this?

I've also left the anderson plug run in the right rear quarter for the moment as I discovered the white LR trailer plug has some sort of power function. What is the function? I've got 2x100amp hour batteries in the trailer which charge directly from an anderson plug while we're on the road. Is there an east adaption to get power from the white plug? What is this plug all about?

Cheers,

Salty.

[Indro]

I've just finished a sucessful install of a tow pro elite to my D3. I followed the directions in this and the D4 thread and it all worked first time. I've simultaneously (partially) installed the traxide auxillary battery system as well but haven't completed the job yet.

I placed the cpu for the system inside the drivers side dash cavity against the inside wall with industrial double sided tape. The control knob looks pretty neat below the vent. The black control panel below would be preferable but it has a circuit board/module that covers the space behind the blank spot in the right upper corner.

Thanks again to the contributors of this community.

Dave

123484

[Mumfy1973]

Is this right ???

[DiscoJeffster]

So I took power straight from the battery via a 30amp auto circuit breaker. I earthed in the passenger compartment near to the unit mounting (under steering wheel console area), picked up the brake from the rear as you've indicated, and fed back the trigger as you've indicated. The diode would seem around the wrong way in your diagram.
For the front to rear run I used a heavy gauge wire for the brake feed and a lighter wire for the brake signal.

[Aussie Jeepster]

125111
Just a query, unrelated to trailers!
If I wanted to get 12v at the rear for a merit plug fitting, could the purple wire be used for it? Is it permanent 12v?
Thanks
alan

[DiscoJeffster]

125111
Just a query, unrelated to trailers!
If I wanted to get 12v at the rear for a merit plug fitting, could the purple wire be used for it? Is it permanent 12v?
Thanks
alan

Having added a rear external light to mine off the cig lighter circuit and finding it's being turned off in time, I'll be doing exactly that to mine.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Having added a rear external light to mine off the cig lighter circuit and finding it's being turned off in time, I'll be doing exactly that to mine.

As long as its a permanent supply. I can't get into mine at present as I have the dreaded "broken cable for the upper tailgate" problem.:<(((

[Hercules]

Hi So i'm just about to wire up my D3 to a redarc controller and happy with what wires need to attach to what. I want to run the +ve and -ve direct off the battery as a lot of you suggested. I have previously done this with my defender, but getting access to wires so much simpler there. So i have 2 questions

1. How do i get the +ve and -ve from drivers side cabin through firewall to engine bay? Any pictures would be great.
2. How do the plastic side floor panels lift? I've already broken a bracket on another panel so don't want to do the same.

And i while i'm at it I'm thinking of running an Anderson Plug from battery down and running along chassis to the tow hitch. would this be the simplest way? (I know 3 questions! [bigwhistle])

Any help appreciated.

[Plane Fixer]

Warning, do not attach any earth lead to the battery negative terminal. Use only the earth point on the body.

[LRD414]

1. How do i get the +ve and -ve from drivers side cabin through firewall to engine bay? Any pictures would be great.
2. How do the plastic side floor panels lift? I've already broken a bracket on another panel so don't want to do the same.
And i while i'm at it I'm thinking of running an Anderson Plug from battery down and running along chassis to the tow hitch. would this be the simplest way?
You'll find all the info in this thread but not all of it on the first page:
D4 Electric Trailer Brake Wiring (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brake-wiring.html)

Scott

[Lukevella]

thanks this has been very helpful

[Aussie Jeepster]

Can I ask a dumb question?
We will be picking up a new van in November, so I'm starting to sort out wiring etc.
The van will have the usual 12 pin flat connector.
The Disco 3 has 2 7 pin connectors.
Why can't I make up an adapter from the 2 7 pin plugs into a 12 pin plug??????
Is the 12 pin plug a unique plug to Australia, with unique wiring???
Happy to be told why this can't be done, but I just want to understand why????

[LRD414]

You can do that and many have. There’s been a few threads specifically on diy adapter cables for 2 x 7 pin to 12 pin. Just need the required plugs and pin assignments.

Scott

[DiscoFever747]

Hi all,
Earlier this week i had to wire a customers vehicle for Electric Trailer Brakes.
I took a couple of photos & this one was the best with everything in 1 shot.
I will try to explain basically as last time it wasnt to clear!!:(
Run 4 wires from the Electric trailer brake unit mounted under the steering column or where ever it is mounted to the rear of the vehilce l/h/s 1/4 panel.
WHITE wire is for earth & gets bolted to one of the terminals as u see in the photo.
BLACK wire is for power +ve & is connected to the 30amp circuit breaker & then another black wire from the circuit breaker (other side)gets connected to the thick PURPLE wire from the trailer wiring plug.
BLUE wire is for variable voltage feed to the electric brakes on your towed vehicle. This is connected to the brown wire from the fuse block. This wire is cut 30mm from the fuse block & the fuse block end is then soldered to the black wire in the fuse block(these are 2 park light circuits & we only need 1) The other end of the Brown wire goes to pin 5 which is for electric brake feed.
RED is brake light feed pick up This is connected to the Green/Purple trace wire in the trailer wiring plug.
As per LR instructions a "Diode" must be fitted & this goes between the connection of the red wire to the Green/Purple Kathode facing the electric brake unit.
**On the photo i ran out of blue wire & used another black for the blue wire connection to the brown wire.
When i receive stock of the blue i will replace photo.
Hope this helps some of the crew.:);)
If the photo is not big enough go to my gallery & view orig size.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/987.jpg

Hi all.....

Has anyone a link to a slightly better pic quality ?
Ìm having trouble reading the purple writing lol . It may be my Samsung phone tho

Can't wait to connect the tow pro in the D3

Cheers

[Pinelli]

Great thread, and great instructions.

I'm having one problem that I don't seem to see identified by anyone in the thread. I've identified the brown wire off the fuse block, but it does not seem to connect to pin 5 of the 12S socket. In fact, there are only 5 wires going to the 12S socket, with the socket then filled in with a resin. Two of them seem to be earths, one a battery connection, and one a switched (ignition) connection.

I also just don't know where the brown wire is meant to go to in my car. It's not particularly thick, so perhaps it is just the brake light on one side?

The fifth connection I'm guessing is either the spare, or I've seen labelled as a Reversing light?


I guess I could use one of those two if I can trace where they connect from, but I just don't understand why this one is different. Mine's a 2005 or 2006 MY (I think MY05, first registered in 2006).

Any thoughts?

Edit: It's the yellow/brown cable, connected to pin1, labelled as Reverse Light or Catch (whatever that means).

I guess I can use that for the brakes?

[Pinelli]

Ok, so that seemed to work. Still not sure why there is no cable to pin 5 in the 12S socket.

Haven't actually taken the caravan for a run yet, but the controller is showing all the right signs.

The word 'catch' in the descriptor for pin 1 - I think this is for an electronic catch for a manual override trailer brake. normally there is a small catch, or physical switch, that stops the brakes from working when you reverse. I have seen some setups where this is an electronic switch that can be set from the driver's seat. So I think I'm safe to use this cable. Must mean that somewhere up from there is already a cable that connects to Pin 1 in 12S, which would save running a cable back in the first place.

Hope this helps someone!

[hpal]

Hi All, Is there a reason a controller can't just be wired in like on a 'normal' car without the need for the diode and cutting into the rear harness and all that?? Seems complicated. I've already run a heavy feed wire from the battery to under the dash to feed the controller, then a heavy service brake wire to the rear of the car to supply the brakes. While I was in the fuse box under the glovebox I put a piggyback fuse in the brake light wire circuit so that should be the signal for the controller to activate. So, why can't I just run the service brake wire into the loom down near the plug or into my 12N to 7 Flat adapter or something, or even splice it into the service brake wire in the rear fuse compartment? I'm probably oversimplifying it though, just seems all a bit complicated... still have to get my noggin around it.
Is where I've taken the brake light feed from theoretically OK?

[vbrab]

Have found that there is a difference in how the electric brake controllers have to be wired depending on whether you have "electric' brakes, or "electric over hydraulic" brakes on what you are towing.
It seems that the latter requires a constant feed to one of the wires (to keep trailer brake battery on charge), and that may be lead 2 or lead 5.
As my electric over hydraulic trailer is sometimes loaned to those with controllers set up for "electric" (only) brakes, I had the auto sparky wire me up a connector plug where he had bridged the reverse wire to supply constant power.
BUT. When reversing the trailer they have to remember to unplug the connector as the brakes come on when they select reverse and cannot reverse trailer.

[Poolguymark]

Ive read through the posts and its all very informative but my question is, on my d3 2006 it has a slot in the fuse box for electric brakes and either side of the rear recovery eye above the tow bar it has a large round white plug socket and alarge black socket, there is no brake controller mounted to the dash under the steering wheel anywhere, does the vehicle come with a inbuilt brake controller? Or is the fuse there just as a point to draw power to a brake controller which previous owner may have removed? I have a teckonsha p3 to fit to the vehicle but not sure that i need to, if its built in to the car somewhere would save me the headache! Did LR option the car with a factory controller under bonnet or somewhere else in the car other than dash mounted?

[PTCAAR]

Ive read through the posts and its all very informative but my question is, on my d3 2006 it has a slot in the fuse box for electric brakes and either side of the rear recovery eye above the tow bar it has a large round white plug socket and alarge black socket, there is no brake controller mounted to the dash under the steering wheel anywhere, does the vehicle come with a inbuilt brake controller? Or is the fuse there just as a point to draw power to a brake controller which previous owner may have removed? I have a teckonsha p3 to fit to the vehicle but not sure that i need to, if its built in to the car somewhere would save me the headache! Did LR option the car with a factory controller under bonnet or somewhere else in the car other than dash mounted?

As far as i know Disco 3 didn't come with factory brake controllers. White is 12S not generally used in OZ for towing purposes but does have constant 12v feed from battery so you can charge the battery through it as I do. Black is 12N which you use to run your trailer lights / brakes etc. See below diagram. So yes you will have to fit your P3 brake controller as per instructions in the thread. Hope this helps.
Cheers Peter

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/964.jpg

[loanrangie]

I don't think any vehicle comes with a trailer brake controller from the factory.

[stuarth44]

my neighbour has a new d5, he had the trailer brakes pack wired by an auto elect., coming down Buderim WITH NO TRAILER THE VEHICLE STOPPED, ENGINE WAS DESTROYED
a new one was put in 33000 dollars, only some intervention by the LR dealer,to the insurance Company of the sparky saw a claim succeed
now, my neighbour has that sorta money rolling around in his glove box, but he was distraught. said he'd never have any work done is it couldn't be done at the dealer, from now on

[loanrangie]

I will be fitting a tow pro elite to me D3, is this diode suitable ?

1N5408 3A 1000V Diode | Jaycar Electronics (https://www.jaycar.com.au/1n5408-3a-1000v-diode/p/ZR1018)

[fudge]

Does anyone have a high res version of the photo from the original post?

[loanrangie]

Does anyone have a high res version of the photo from the original post?You don't really need one, only 2 wires to connect in the rear if you run the positive and negative to the battery.
Just follow the guide as to which colours go where.

[fudge]

You don't really need one, only 2 wires to connect in the rear if you run the positive and negative to the battery.
Just follow the guide as to which colours go where.

Thanks. Here's a photo of my rear fuse block and wiring. My brake controller was installed by Peter "Sniegy" at Landrover Melbourne when I bought the car new in 2009. It is appears as though the Fog lamp fuse (fourth fuse down in the block) was changed to a 20amp fuse. This fog lamp fuse is normally just a 7.5 amp. This 20amp fuse has broken twice before during a braking event in the last year and the hydraulic brakes on the trailer remain clamped on as a result - a danger and major inconvenience.

I would like to have my wiring checked. Is there a specialist Landrover Auto Electrician that anyone can recommend in Melbourne?


Regards,
Paul

[loanrangie]

Looks like he used the fog light circuit to power the controller hence the bigger fuse, he might have modified the process afterwards as per the guide he posted.

[tkkkk]

how do i wire up a tekosha brake cotroller the pictures do not show the location of the fuse box etc
Hi all,
Earlier this week i had to wire a customers vehicle for Electric Trailer Brakes.
I took a couple of photos & this one was the best with everything in 1 shot.
I will try to explain basically as last time it wasnt to clear!!:(
Run 4 wires from the Electric trailer brake unit mounted under the steering column or where ever it is mounted to the rear of the vehilce l/h/s 1/4 panel.
WHITE wire is for earth & gets bolted to one of the terminals as u see in the photo.
BLACK wire is for power +ve & is connected to the 30amp circuit breaker & then another black wire from the circuit breaker (other side)gets connected to the thick PURPLE wire from the trailer wiring plug.
BLUE wire is for variable voltage feed to the electric brakes on your towed vehicle. This is connected to the brown wire from the fuse block. This wire is cut 30mm from the fuse block & the fuse block end is then soldered to the black wire in the fuse block(these are 2 park light circuits & we only need 1) The other end of the Brown wire goes to pin 5 which is for electric brake feed.
RED is brake light feed pick up This is connected to the Green/Purple trace wire in the trailer wiring plug.
As per LR instructions a "Diode" must be fitted & this goes between the connection of the red wire to the Green/Purple Kathode facing the electric brake unit.
**On the photo i ran out of blue wire & used another black for the blue wire connection to the brown wire.
When i receive stock of the blue i will replace photo.
Hope this helps some of the crew.:);)
If the photo is not big enough go to my gallery & view orig size.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/06/987.jpg

[PeterOZ]

Hi Folks,
informative thread.

I am hoping to get a van later in the year and will require EBC to be fitted. The van in mind has mandatory flat 12 pin as well as anderson plug to keep van battery topped up for the breakaway system.

Intent will be to fit a dedicated flat 12 pin socket to the D3 as well as the anderson plug.

To try and summarise to see if I am understanding this correctly.



+ve from battery via 30A auto reset CB then to black wire to ECB
-ve from negative terminal of battery or should it be from the chassis post? Then to WHITE wire to ECB
From ECB trailer brake wire BLUE direct to the flat 12 pin plug (don't see the need to splice into existing trailer harness as I won't be using the 12N socket for the van)
Diode connection: from trailer plug brake light wire to diode Cathode, diode Anode then to green/purple wire which is vehicle brake light wire. EBC RED trailer brake light wire comes from diode Cathode. This bit I am not sure about is where to make that connection. I was not able to zoom in with any clarity on the original photo.
Other trailer light functions for indicators, side / rear lights splice into existing trailer plug harness.


do I have this correct?

Mud map schematic
193746

thanks for bearing with me.
cheers
Peter

[DiscoDB]

As per Sniegy’s original post you will find the higher resolution version of his hard to read photo in his members gallery.

Need to open link below from a browser window like chrome.

Message - AULRO Photo Gallery (https://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/9028/title/disco3rrs-electric-trailer-brake-connections-002/cat/500)

Still hard to read the purple text but if you click on the picture to open and then zoom in it is almost all readable.

[PeterOZ]

As per Sniegy’s original post you will find the higher resolution version of his hard to read photo in his members gallery.

Need to open link below from a browser window like chrome.

Message - AULRO Photo Gallery (https://www.aulro.com/app/showphoto.php/photo/9028/title/disco3rrs-electric-trailer-brake-connections-002/cat/500)

Still hard to read the purple text but if you click on the picture to open and then zoom in it is almost all readable.
thanks mate, much appreciated, I can now just read it.

There were comments up further in the thread from another member and Sniegy about putting the diode further downstream to also pick up the trailer, wasn't sure where he meant by that. Anyway I will figure it out when the time comes.
cheers
Peter

[DiscoDB]

In reality the original photo and write up is no longer applicable as the set up changed almost totally from the way Sniegy first would wire things up.

Your summary is probably the most concise re-write up.

This picture from midway through the thread is probably the clearest diagram for where to add the diode:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250617/f72aa294a894fb124c84b917151171f6.jpg

[PeterOZ]

These diagrams further illustrate what needs to be done and can be found in the Redarc manual.

193807

193808