101 Recovery Points

[101RRS]

101s have aluminium helecopter lifting brackets front and rear. Clearly designed to lift the 101 vertically in its lightweight condition - so say 2.5 tonnes spread over 4 points.

I have noticed a lot of pics of 101s with recovery shackles etc attached to these points - now these points are designed to lift vertically not pull and and such I would not have thought these to be good recovery points - particularly for snatches.

Like snatching from towballs - I would have thought that snatching from the pintle hook would be unwise - even if they were strong enough I suppose there would always be a chance the strap could pull through the hook and catch (whatever the top bit is called)

What have other people done for recovery points in their 101s. Just used the helo lifting points or pintle hook or put something special in.

Garry

[101 Ron]

The front helicopter lifting points are most likely missing on your vehicle.
They are like the front and rear points but located on the cabin on the floor either side.
In its light weight condtion two lifting straps went to the rear chassis points with the tail gate removed.(straps bent over rear body a bit)
On the front the straps went straight to the floor lifting points.......as the canvas roof has been removed.
The front chassis points are not helicopter.
JUst checked in the book.........the front chassis points are discribed as towing and lashing points.
I have been recovering vehicles in the army and privately for years.
Recovery on a pintel hook is no problem so long it is closed and the safety pin fitted.
The original chassis points are fine for light recoverys.
It is up the person to in charge of the recovery to decide the best attachment point to a vehicle for the situation.
If you dont like a pintel hook put the strap around the diff.
Even better use the101s excellant recovery winch for recovery,instead of the uncontrolled forces of a snatch recovery.
If I was using the rear or front points I would share the load between them with a bridal and not for snatch.......but winching would be OK.

[Sprint]

what abous using the steel eyes designed not to slip out of a closed and locked pintle hook instead of just using the strap on the hook

[101 Ron]

I think you will find the towing points are cast steel and not alloy.
Mine are steel.

[101RRS]

Ron,

You are of course correct - the attachments on the front bumber are for towing/tiedown and not for helo lifting - as they are the same as the rears I assumed they were for the same purpose. Mine appear to be aluminium but I just tested them with magnet and they are ferrous.

I am sure they are plenty strong for recovery and snatching - I just have an aversion to having recovery points where the strain is taken by the bolt threads rather shear force on the bolt shaft.

I appreciate there are other options but was just curious what other people have been using.

Cheers

Garry

[stuee]

Thought I'd give this a bump. I'm tentatively booked in on the 10th Jan for my first off road outing and want to know what others have used for recovering their 101 or pulling others out.

I don't have the luxury of a winch so cant choose that option. A lot of the 4wding I do is sand based and while I've never been bogged yet on in the sand (touch wood), I want to be able to be recovered or recover others if required and its likely a snatch would be on the cards.

I'm keen for what others have actually used. If you've had after market points put on I'd like to know as well.

Cheers.

[Sitec]

Hi Stuee.
On the rear, Im of the opinion that the NATO hitch when mounted directly to the center of the xmember with all original points is a good recovery point for the rear, as the xmember is a decent size, and also has 45deg stays back to the chassis rails. I have carried out a few light snatches and a few heavy snatches with my UK 101 with no issue.
The front is a different story, and offers little in the way of recovery points. The 'air portable' eyes are not sufficient (same with rears), which is why they are on the shelf in the workshop. I've addressed the front recovery point on mine by building a jaw into the new bumper, which has 12mm plate running back to each chassis leg so forming a safe even pull on the nose. If I was running the std bumper, Id be looking to find a couple of decent Jate style rings that could be bolted on using the front spring bolt.. Not ideal, but when used together with a triangulated strap they'd be very strong and pulling evenly on both front chassis rails. I think tho, with your decent tyres, and a bit of weight in the rear with all the camping gear, you will be surprised where a 101 will go. I'm yet to get mine stuck to the point where I can't drive out without help!
Hope that helps, and interested to hear what others think.. :)

[Sitec]

Even something done like this on the two front spring eyes would be fine.. Yeah, I hear all the 'it's home made' etc etc, but, I would rather something I've made under there than the unknown quality of a Chinese part that I ordered to c if it'll do the job.... If its done by a coded welder or engineer, it should be fine. :)

[101RRS]

I for two 4500kg hooks in the front bolted through the front spring hangers. They are bolted on the outside of each chassis spring hanger and I use a bridle between the two so the general pull is inward on the stronger area of the hooks. Seems to work OK and is cheap to do and given the spot is so so reinforced crush tubes are not needed for the HT bolts.

Front
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/05012010002.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/05012010002.jpg.html)

On the rear I use a recovery block in the receiver hitch. Prior to that. I just used to snatch off the smaller hole to the left of the rear cross member. As mentioned it all comes down to how much confidence you have in the strength of the rear cross member. In theory it is strong enough but with a fee years and a bit of internal rust things may be different.

When I get energetic I might mount recovery points on the inside rear of the chassis rails (with crush tubes).

Rear
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/My%20101/P4220335_zpsc20eaf06.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/My%20101/P4220335_zpsc20eaf06.jpg.html)

[stuee]

Thanks guys. I have the nato hitch and its in good condition so will get it repainted and remounted. For the time being I will look to get some recovery hooks in the front like yours Garry.

The front bumper sounds great Simon. Some years down the track (when I have a proper workshop, not a driveway) I'd like to have a crack at making up a new front bar.

[Sitec]

Just seeing those hooks Garry reminded me that I have the same ones atop the 12mm plate on my bumper! And yes. They're set up so I can be recovered using both hooks. Stuee, from memory Repco, Sprint etc sell them, and they seem to cop a flogging without issues. Where Garry has his looks to be the perfect spot for them, and he's right. The chassis is good and strong there. :)

[JayBoRover]

I don't have the luxury of a winch so cant choose that option. A lot of the 4wding I do is sand based and while I've never been bogged yet on in the sand (touch wood), I want to be able to be recovered or recover others if required and its likely a snatch would be on the cards.
Cheers.
Hey Stuee, If you get bogged and a Toyota rocks up to snatch or winch you, check to see he doesn't have a camera. If he does, politely decline the help and give me a call - I'll risk the fines and double demerits to drive my unlicensed 101 to winch you out to avoid you the embarrassment of getting rescued by a 'yota:D.
Ah, hang on - 10th of January I'll be on the Dakar - may be a bit far to come from South America to rescue you!

[101RRS]

They're set up so I can be recovered using both hooks. Stuee, from memory Repco, Sprint etc sell them, and they seem to cop a flogging without issues. Where Garry has his looks to be the perfect spot for them, and he's right. The chassis is good and strong there. :)

I don't know about Repco but I got mine from ARB and they are rated - 4500kg or 10,000lbs depending whether imperial or metric.

Being open hooks (there is a light tab to keep recovery get on) when they get overstressed the hook does open - some claim that is not good but to me that is a controlled release rather than a big bang (I don't think the they fracture). The main issue is if the pull is not through the shank but is higher up in the hook near the open end where the hook is thinner.

That is why I mounted mine on the outside of the chassis so the pull is always through the thickest part. I have never had to use them with a bridle or a full on snatch but used them tow recoveries - though I have hooked back to them for winch recoveries.

Garry