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Aaron
19th February 2008, 11:52 PM
Im going to start this thread because ill need to service my 02 110 myself as my local shop is booked out for the rest of the century.

Ill be back and forth to this thread a fair bit. If you are doing the same thing as me, feel free to use this thread to ask questions.

Firstly on the oils front a huge thanks to Rick130 for his help. Ill be in contact with you shortly.

First question is - 70k service. Apart from change engine oil/oil filter what needs to be done.

Apart from oils, what parts do I need to replace?

Aaron
22nd February 2008, 01:42 PM
Well I have been spending.

Ive got a TD5 service kit from Four Wheel Drives - Land Rovers New and Used Spare Parts - Home (http://www.fwd.com.au). Should arrive today.

Engine I have Delvac 1
Gearbox I have Syntrans
F/R Diffs and T/Case i have Motul Gear 300. (They dont exactly give this stuff away I found out :P)

crump
22nd February 2008, 02:41 PM
a few tips I have learnt may help.
1.give the plug on the bottom of the fuel filter a good spray of WD before trying to remove, it can be a real tight bugger and if you slip you'll break the sensor wires.
2. to save removing the engine(just about) to get to the oil filter I generally grab it with a set of long handled multi grips to undo it, a hell of a lot easier then mucking around with filter wrenches in a tight space.
3. Be very careful how you do up the centrifuge cover bolts, not to tight.
4. Make sure you have the right copper washers to replace the ones on the sump bung and gearbox drain.
5. And one more, I'm 6 foot and I have a timber cube 12inches high and 18" square that I stand on when working under the bonnet, makes it a hell of a lot easier.

Aaron
22nd February 2008, 04:26 PM
1 - I already discovered that while playing. The WD with the extension tube almost acts as a mini hose to get mud out of the clips.

2 - I will keep that in mind. Its been concerning me the filter issue. I dont know how Im meant to have enough room to get a wrench on there, and turning it seems like it would be even harder. Also, there is a pipe directly under the filter, How tall is the thread on the filter? It wouldnt want to be to tall or it wont be able to clear *that* pipe.

3 - How many nm? I dont think Rave stipulates.

4 - When ordering my service kit I asked them to put in the sealing seal for the sump... didnt even think about the t/case g/box f/r/diffs. Part numpers?

5 - Im 6'5 :D

foz.in.oz
22nd February 2008, 05:19 PM
Aaron,

Here's an Excel file showing what to do and when for a TD5 Defender. Its basically a copy of the workshop checklist from the UK converted into Kilometers.

Basically 70,00km is between main services. I normally just do an oil and filter change at the 10,000 interval between main services.

If someones got pdf creator maybe they can convert it for those who don't have Excel

crump
22nd February 2008, 05:22 PM
1 - I already discovered that while playing. The WD with the extension tube almost acts as a mini hose to get mud out of the clips.

2 - I will keep that in mind. Its been concerning me the filter issue. I dont know how Im meant to have enough room to get a wrench on there, and turning it seems like it would be even harder. Also, there is a pipe directly under the filter, How tall is the thread on the filter? It wouldnt want to be to tall or it wont be able to clear *that* pipe.you undo the filter and drop it down and around the back of the pipe between the pipe and the block.

3 - How many nm? I dont think Rave stipulates.I dont own a torque wrench, but when you undo them you will realise how tight they are, 150mm spanner, two fingers.

4 - When ordering my service kit I asked them to put in the sealing seal for the sump... didnt even think about the t/case g/box f/r/diffs. Part numpers?You should be able to get them thru Repco, Supacheap etc, but the gearbox drain washer is different to the sump drain washer.

5 - Im 6'5 :D Cant help you with that.:D

foz.in.oz
22nd February 2008, 05:26 PM
a few tips I have learnt may help.
2. to save removing the engine(just about) to get to the oil filter I generally grab it with a set of long handled multi grips to undo it, a hell of a lot easier then mucking around with filter wrenches in a tight space.


Once I have loosened the filter I put a sandwich bag around it before I unscrew it fully. That way the oil is collected and does not drip down the side of the engine block.

Aaron
22nd February 2008, 06:32 PM
Good idea, thats the sort of things Im after. Thanks.

Aaron
22nd February 2008, 06:33 PM
Aaron,

Here's an Excel file showing what to do and when for a TD5 Defender. Its basically a copy of the workshop checklist from the UK converted into Kilometers.

Basically 70,00km is between main services. I normally just do an oil and filter change at the 10,000 interval between main services.

If someones got pdf creator maybe they can convert it for those who don't have Excel

Thanks!! I missed this post initially.

Black Dog
23rd February 2008, 10:02 AM
Aaron,

If someones got pdf creator maybe they can convert it for those who don't have Excel

Here's a PDF for those interested.
BD

Aaron
26th February 2008, 05:25 PM
ive some pictures whith questions.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/02/13.jpg

I assume number one is the engine sump. Is number three gear box drain, and number two filler? If so, do I just fill till oil come out of the the filler? Looks hard to fit 2.3L in there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/02/91.jpg
T/case drain ? Hard to get perspective i know, im sorry.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2008/02/92.jpg

T/case filler?

If so, can that pipe be pulled off to gain better access to the plug?

George130
26th February 2008, 06:30 PM
1 Yes engine drain plug.

Transfer case drain and filler look like they are the ones. That pipe looks to be the hand brake cable. If so just hold it out of the way. I can't help with the gearbox as I have an auto conversion so have not looked at the manual.

Aaron
26th February 2008, 06:34 PM
Holding it out of the way will make it work.. thanks!

foz.in.oz
27th February 2008, 03:41 PM
items 2 and 3 in the first picture are not what you are looking for. The gearbox drain is a quite large hex headed bung on the side of the gear box near the bottom. The filler is a torx type plug stuck about 60% up the side of the gear box and requires a torx bit (size T55 i think).

see attached picture for plugs. A = drain B = filler

crump
27th February 2008, 04:12 PM
items 2 and 3 in the first picture are not what you are looking for. The gearbox drain is a quite large hex headed bung on the side of the gear box near the bottom. The filler is a torx type plug stuck about 60% up the side of the gear box and requires a torx bit (size T55 i think).

see attached picture for plugs. A = drain B = filler
x2.;) Go towards the rear of the vehicle about 600mm from the engine drain, and all will become apparent.;)

Aaron
27th February 2008, 06:58 PM
Gotcha.

Is it that big 30mm+ nut?

And I thought all my plugs were going to be torx bit free. the filler is indeed a torx, yuk.

Aaron
27th February 2008, 07:54 PM
Does anyone know the exact size socket that fits the gear box drain plug?

solmanic
28th February 2008, 08:38 AM
5. And one more, I'm 6 foot and I have a timber cube 12inches high and 18" square that I stand on when working under the bonnet, makes it a hell of a lot easier.

With regard to working under the bonnet -

If you haven't already worked out, the bonnet can be hinged right back to rest against the windscreen. Just hold it in place with an oki-strap around the snorkel. But be careful not to crack the plastic covers on the wiper arm nuts. I think one of these has laready been chipped during an earlier service at the dealers.

Aaron
28th February 2008, 08:51 AM
I think one of these has laready been chipped during an earlier service at the dealers.

Indeed it has!

Yeah thats right..... blame the dealers :P

Aaron
28th February 2008, 06:54 PM
Well Ive done the diffs. They plugs were on tight. They appeared to be loctit`ed on there, even though RAVE dosnt mention anything about loctite. They dont have any loctite on them now.

Is it possible to strip the threads on those by using hand power alone?

rick130
28th February 2008, 10:59 PM
I don't know about stripping them, but it is easy to open the threads up enough on the diffs that the plug goes in too far before sealing (it's a taper plug)

Just for lack of leaks, I always spray the threads of the plugs with Hylomar spray. It should also stop them vibrating out, too.

Aaron
28th February 2008, 11:16 PM
That maybe what it was. It was more..... gunk, rather than what your normaly see with loctite.

Aaron
29th February 2008, 06:17 PM
Engine done today. I had a few issues with the sump plug.

The nut on the gear box is 32mm.

Does anyone know if the gear box drain plug can be as tight as the sump plug?

I'm going to take a stab in the dark and assume anything with a copper washer is going to get severely tight.

What is the method behind using a copper washer? Is it because they heat, and expend during operation, and make it tighter while operating?

Aaron
4th March 2008, 04:43 PM
Service is DONE!

T/Case filler plug was very very very tight, and that was the only issue. had to use a pulling motion with with a socket wrech while pushing away from the car on the chassis rail with my legs. Destroyed a socket wrench... other than that, it was fine.

Id recommend Castrol SynTrans to others. Gear shifts are a lot better.

So...

Engine - Delvac one
F/R Diffs - Motul Gear300
G/Box - SynTrans
T/case - Motul Gear300

TD5 Service kit from Four Wheel Drives - Land Rovers New and Used Spare Parts - Home (http://www.fwd.com.au)

79000 km

crump
4th March 2008, 05:05 PM
Service is DONE!

T/Case filler plug was very very very tight, and that was the only issue. had to use a pulling motion with with a socket wrech while pushing away from the car on the chassis rail with my legs. Destroyed a socket wrench... other than that, it was fine.

Id recommend Castrol SynTrans to others. Gear shifts are a lot better.

So...

Engine - Delvac one
F/R Diffs - Motul Gear300
G/Box - SynTrans
T/case - Motul Gear300

TD5 Service kit from Four Wheel Drives - Land Rovers New and Used Spare Parts - Home (http://www.fwd.com.au)

79000 km

you forgot "satisfaction- unbeatable".;) I actually stopped using Syntrans and went to VMX80 as i can get it free and found the shift better with the VMX, must be a Landy thing.