Gear lever required...Shocks...Petrol tank....

[Chilly]

Hi,

I have a LWB, 1975 with a o/drive fitted.

I picked it last weekend. It requires some work to get it REGO'd.

Whilst moving it tonight I showed of my super human strengths and broke the gear lever. HE..man...master of the universe!!! Nothing to do with it being broken before and some poor welding performed...'honest guv'.

Well. I can either weld it myself or I would prefer to get a new...as in good second hand one.

Providing you have got this far in the blah blah blah message.....

Does anyone have one?

Anyone ideas why this should snap. Not difficult to get into gear....well he says having broke the lever!!:wasntme:

I am also a rear shock missing. Need to change both and will probably change to Para's later therefore.....

Wheres the best place to go to get some?

I was told by previous owner that the fuel tank leaks....

Anyone got a tank?

Or should I just repair it?

Or build a new Stainless tank?

Chap at work said about getting a plastic tank.

Thoughts anyone on this?

Cheers for your help in advance.

Chilly

[isuzurover]

Gear levers have been known to break. If you can't find one, just grind the broken bits down to two cones, and get a good welder to reattach them.

Is yours the side or rear mounted tank? I have a long range / 16 gal tank in VGC (apart from a few dints) that is surplus to requirements. Absolutely no rust/leaks. (in Brisbane).

[Chilly]

Hi isuzurover,

Mine is a side tank. It seems quite big compared to the one on my SWB in the UK.

Would have to post from Brissie to Wodonga, Vic. Any idea on cost?

Cheers Chilly

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi,
... Whilst moving it tonight I showed of my super human strengths and broke the gear lever. HE..man...master of the universe!!! Nothing to do with it being broken before and some poor welding performed...'honest guv'.

Well. I can either weld it myself or I would prefer to get a new...as in good second hand one.

Anyone ideas why this should snap. ...

... Chilly
Chilly

It is a known fault - t'was reading the Army's 1952 test of a Holden engine in a Land Rover recently. There it was in the breakdown summary, "broken gear lever". From memory the Army's repair indicated, drilled, tapped and welded. So I guess they ran a die over the lever end, drilled and tapped into the stump where the ball is then welded the repair. Sounds like a good method to me.

The problem was so common one of the foundation members of the LROCS, Howard Ross, used to carry a spare on Club trips.

Diana

[Chilly]

Hi Diane,

Most interesting. A good solution too.

This reading of the army's 1952 test of Holden engine...whereabouts is that?


Chilly

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...This reading of the army's 1952 test of Holden engine...whereabouts is that?


Chilly
In the National Archives of Australia, I purchased a copy to have one myself.

[JDNSW]

Broken gear levers are quite common. Possibly because the ball tends to bind with dust (use graphite powder), but probably not quite strong enough as well. (Mine is welded, and so are most of the ones I have seen)

Note that the four and six cylinder levers are different and not interchangeable (different shape). The series 1/2/2a and Series 3 are different but interchangeable (except very early Series 1). Main differences with the Series 3 are push on knob not threaded, and the anti-rattle is by a nylon tip not an O-ring. I'm not sure this change was exactly at the start of S3, may have been a bit earlier, but it doesn't matter as they are interchangeable as long as the number of cylinders are respected. If it has a foreign engine (e.g. Holden) you need to check what the original was, four or six. (And the V8 has a different box and is not interchangeable)

John

[vnx205]

Broken gear levers are quite common.
John
.. and there I was thinking my gear lever was rare if not unique.
One of the previous owners had done a welding job that wasn't pretty, but must have been effective because it lasted over 200,000km.
I actually liked it because in the process, the lever had been moved back and a bit closer to the driver, so I could get reverse gear without having to reach across in front of the passenger.

[lro11]

Broken gear levers are quite common. Possibly because the ball tends to bind with dust (use graphite powder), but probably not quite strong enough as well. (Mine is welded, and so are most of the ones I have seen)

Note that the four and six cylinder levers are different and not interchangeable (different shape). The series 1/2/2a and Series 3 are different but interchangeable (except very early Series 1). Main differences with the Series 3 are push on knob not threaded, and the anti-rattle is by a nylon tip not an O-ring. I'm not sure this change was exactly at the start of S3, may have been a bit earlier, but it doesn't matter as they are interchangeable as long as the number of cylinders are respected. If it has a foreign engine (e.g. Holden) you need to check what the original was, four or six. (And the V8 has a different box and is not interchangeable)

John
I have a 6 cyl gear lever fitted to my 4 cyl gearbox?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I have a 6 cyl gear lever fitted to my 4 cyl gearbox?

How many Band-Aids do you have over your knuckles?

[JDNSW]

I have a 6 cyl gear lever fitted to my 4 cyl gearbox?

The six cylinder gearbox is set further back, and the shape of the gear lever reflects this (unless of course it has been bent). I haven't checked to see whether you can interchange the four and the six levers without actually hitting anything.

John

[lro11]

I don't have a problem it works fine

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The six cylinder gearbox is set further back, and the shape of the gear lever reflects this (unless of course it has been bent). I haven't checked to see whether you can interchange the four and the six levers without actually hitting anything.

John
John is correct, the base is exactly the same. The 6 cyl stick is basically straight with a single bend near the bottom. In an SIII your fist would be going in between the parcel shelf every time you went into reverse.

On a series 2/2a your knuckles would be hitting the instrument panel in reverse and possibly 1st and 3rd.

All providing someone hasn't modified the stick to put a larger bend at the bottom.

Diana

[Chilly]

ha ha....no band aids....fortune smiled on me and I had a open hand.

The lever had been repaired several times by the looks of it. Broken above the ball.

It is also a straight level with screw on gear knob.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

ha ha....no band aids....fortune smiled on me and I had a open hand.

The lever had been repaired several times by the looks of it. Broken above the ball.

It is also a straight level with screw on gear knob.
Yup that's it officer - it must be mine it is broken in exactly the same place! :angel:

And Mine :spudnikwaving:

And mine too :spudnikconfounded:

[isuzurover]

Hi isuzurover,

Mine is a side tank. It seems quite big compared to the one on my SWB in the UK.

Would have to post from Brissie to Wodonga, Vic. Any idea on cost?

Cheers Chilly

Sounds like the same one then.

I think a tank is too big for Aussie post. AULRO courier service might be a possibility???

[lro11]

John is correct, the base is exactly the same. The 6 cyl stick is basically straight with a single bend near the bottom. In an SIII your fist would be going in between the parcel shelf every time you went into reverse.

On a series 2/2a your knuckles would be hitting the instrument panel in reverse and possibly 1st and 3rd.

All providing someone hasn't modified the stick to put a larger bend at the bottom.

Diana

Well here is a hole in your theory I found numerous pictures on the web of 4 cylinder series 3's with a straight gearstick, this photo I took of a diesel for sale in Brisbane. And the new gearstick that arrived today from the UK nice and straight too. They can't all be wrong???

[dandlandyman]

Broken gearsticks are fairly common where gearboxes have led a hard life. Grinding back and welding were the only cures my father has ever done, though tapping threads seems like a good alternative.
1952? That would have been a lot of trouble to go to, even for the army. The only Holden engines at that time were grey motors, and their engine mounts were situated either side of the bell housing and one under the harmonic balancer. Being too long, the front cross member would have to be moved and carefully refitted to use the mount. I've seen it done once to an 80", and I would never do it to ANY Land Rover.
An ex-army friend of mine says he never saw any of them, so I guess the idea didn't take off.

Dan.
69 2a 88" pet4, 74 3 109" pet4, 68 2b FC pet6.