Help, series 2a keeps stalling

[stomps]

Hi guys,
I am relatively new to this LPG caper and am still trying to get my head around it so please bare with me.

I’ve a 2a with a 302 Cleveland which is set up for dual fuel. The car has been running pretty hot even on long runs, god help what it would be like in low range in the mountains. I have just moved to Brissy from Melb and the poor girl doesn’t like the heat.

I have just had the radiator (Ford GT, rather large) overhauled which didn’t make any difference. I backed the timing back from around 12-13 BTDC to around 9-10 BTDC thinking that it might run a bit cooler. The girl starts well, and runs well, however, when I pull up at the lights (sometimes) she will not take off when I put my foot down. Sort of splutters and has to be nursed back to health for a few seconds or so. This has only occured since I backed off the timing.

It is running a Aussie B2 gas converter into a 650 Holly, I understand that you should tune for one or the other in my case gas (fuel is ok on the highway in the city I just pull out the choke a fraction to keep up the revs) the RPMs are around 500. Does the gas air mixture influence the running temp? It may sound funny but I'm running out of ideas. The only screw into the converter that I can see is an allen key.

Thanks in advance Tim.

[Tank]

Hi guys,
I am relatively new to this LPG caper and am still trying to get my head around it so please bare with me.

I’ve a 2a with a 302 Cleveland which is set up for dual fuel. The car has been running pretty hot even on long runs, god help what it would be like in low range in the mountains. I have just moved to Brissy from Melb and the poor girl doesn’t like the heat.

I have just had the radiator (Ford GT, rather large) overhauled which didn’t make any difference. I backed the timing back from around 12-13 BTDC to around 9-10 BTDC thinking that it might run a bit cooler. The girl starts well, and runs well, however, when I pull up at the lights (sometimes) she will not take off when I put my foot down. Sort of splutters and has to be nursed back to health for a few seconds or so. This has only occured since I backed off the timing.

It is running a Aussie B2 gas converter into a 650 Holly, I understand that you should tune for one or the other in my case gas (fuel is ok on the highway in the city I just pull out the choke a fraction to keep up the revs) the RPMs are around 500. Does the gas air mixture influence the running temp? It may sound funny but I'm running out of ideas. The only screw into the converter that I can see is an allen key.

Thanks in advance Tim.
Do a Google search on the type of Mixer/Convertor and find out what the allen key/allen bolt/screw does, it maybe the idle mixture screw, I would knock the timing back up to 12 BTDC and see how it goes, there should also be a gauze filter in the on/off gas solenoid that may have crud in it, make sure you turn the gas off at the tank and run the engine till it stalls before removing the gas line to the solenoid, no gas is good when you are working under the bonnet, when you turn the gas back on at the tank, do so Slowly otherwise you trip the cut out valve and freeze everything up, also make sure the Holley is bolted down tight and you have no Vacuum leaks in the hoses to the dual fuel solenoids, if fitted, also check Vacuum advance to dissy is working, Regards Frank.

[stomps]

Thanks Frank for the info re the gas I did a search and found the unit no mention of what the allen screw is for though. The unit is less than a year old and the dramas only since I backed off the timing trying to slow down the getting hot issue. I'm confident there isn't any leaks as it has only started happening since doing the timing.

Refurbed radiator, 2 x fans its gotta be something to do with the set-up, i.e. ignition, mixture etc. Then again it cant just be the gas because it also runs hot on petrol, god I love these realisation movements.

Once again thanks for being the only person who replied.

Yours Tim.

[Tank]

Thanks Frank for the info re the gas I did a search and found the unit no mention of what the allen screw is for though. The unit is less than a year old and the dramas only since I backed off the timing trying to slow down the getting hot issue. I'm confident there isn't any leaks as it has only started happening since doing the timing.

Refurbed radiator, 2 x fans its gotta be something to do with the set-up, i.e. ignition, mixture etc. Then again it cant just be the gas because it also runs hot on petrol, god I love these realisation movements.

Once again thanks for being the only person who replied.

Yours Tim.
Tim, I would say that the allen head screw would probably be the Idle mixture screw, you could try this, but if the screw is extremely hard to turn disregard the following. Put the short end of an allen key in the screw and mark with a texta where it is pointing now, call this mark 12 o'clock then with the engine running turn the allen key clockwise 90 degrees to 3 o'clock, if no difference turn further clockwise to 6 o'clock (1/2 a turn) if engine improves go a bit further to see if there is any more improvement. If no improvement turn anti clockwise back to starting point and repeat in the anti clockwise direction, if no improvement return to original position, did you check the Vacuum advance, remove the hose from manifold/carby end and suck on it, if you suck air easily then Vac. diagphram is ruptured, if you suck and feel resistance you should be able to plug the end with your tounge and feel it stick to the end of the pipe, let us know how you go, good luck, Regards Frank.